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Grease-gun grease & engine oil dripped through tiny caps? Ayuh, that 1930s tech for you. If you don't already have one, invest in a pump-style oil can. A lot less messy & better control when topping up your cups. It looks to be in great shape! I vote drive it home from DC. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Mar 23, 2022 |
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Mar 23, 2022 03:31
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 23:33 |
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Hadlock posted:Car delivery guy called. He will be ready for drop off in DC 9am Sunday, approximately 8 days early First thing you should do is get back to the shipper and explain that you can't be there until (at least) your wife gets back from her business trip to watch your kid. U-haul pickup + U-hail car trailer? Try to keep the kid entertained for sixteen hours?...uh...how about a babysitter...? Where was he going to drop it in DC? Usually, it's some type of enclosed (fenced) shipping facility. I doubt he can just keep it on the truck, these guys make no money just sitting. Do you have to be there to pay? Usually they want you to inspect & then sign off on it. If it doesn't have to be you...could your DC friend pick it up & sign off on it, then put it in his garage? That way you just need to send him the $$...assuming he can drive a manual PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Apr 3, 2022 |
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Apr 3, 2022 17:44
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Ja platinum AAA is the poo poo. drat that TA looks extremely solid and very clean. Congratulations on a pro score!
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Apr 5, 2022 02:25
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Go go go, baby! And take lots of photos/video!
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Apr 24, 2022 01:31
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Apr 25, 2022 01:06
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What great pictures. She looks amazing, too.
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Apr 25, 2022 02:13
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Y E S! OK, the headlight & taillight being out may be some mild corrosion at the plug contacts. A few light strokes with steel wool & some alcohol should help the contacts on the headlight & the body of the bulb. You can use electronics contact cleaner & then some contact paste to promote contact & prevent corrosion. A rear bulb out can drop voltage enough so that the blinker relay can't >blink< so try that first. Did it consume a quart on the trip home, or was it a bit low at the start?
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Apr 25, 2022 15:45
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What a beautiful suite of photos! Looks like a goddamn calendar for May. Say what you will about French automakers, but drat if they didn't produce some gorgeous designs and, hands down, the most comfortable seats in any car. The only concern I have about overfilling the crankcase oil is that the crank counterweights will thrash the oil into a foam, and if that gets sucked into the oil pump, unwelcome excitement follows. A moot point since you made it home. If it doesn't have one, may I suggest installation of an electronic oil pressure gauge. Every car I owned got coolant & oil pressure gauges if they weren't already so equipped.
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Apr 26, 2022 02:49
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Hadlock posted:My schedule is all hosed up because of a project, and I live near a beach, please enjoy:  If you’re anywhere near as accomplished a mechanic that you clearly are as a photographer, this will be nothing but a joy. Also: jelly that you have a lift
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May 19, 2022 00:38
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I have at least one Learner's "L" on a blue field somewhere. Maybe more than one...a sticker & a magnet.
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May 23, 2022 01:40
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It's France, the equivalent is a red A on a white background. Maybe now it is. When I lived there, it was a white "L" on a blue field.
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May 23, 2022 04:14
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Hadlock posted:Boring work log incoming: Mazda is a brand & type, made & sold in the US as well, up into the 1920s. Other brands you may see are Osram and Philips. Hadlock posted:
Hadlock posted:I think lighting was pretty grim up until the late 90s/early 2000s when LED finally became usable so safety lighting was mostly an afterthought as incandecent bulbs are pretty thirsty. As an old fart, I take offense.  Lighting was just fine, the factory lighting in my '65 Ford & '66 Pontiac are more than adequate; but what you say is true, up into the early 1960s, and especially in Europe, which did not have much in the way of high-speed roads. The Eisenhower Transportation System development of the interstates in the US propelled US carmakers to incorporate advancements in lighting, horsepower, and braking, as cars were previously built to handle poorly-graded & lit local roads with limited straightaways & questionable grading/paving.And yeah, you may need to build or acquire a gasket/gasketing material for those position lamps on top of your headlight buckets. Hadlock posted:The blinkers use a different style of bulb mount. Looks like the collar of the bulb connects to the chassis (ground) and the screw + spring connects to the pin... but also connects to the chassis? On closer inspection, looks like there might be a piece of wool acting as an insulator, with that square.... rivet head thing, passing the connection through. This is the first design choice I've run across that seems ill advised, I'll have to find a diagram and figure out what the hell is going on here, on the front fender blinkers at least, that square rivet is threaded on the other side that connects to a power cable. For the rear blinkers, that piece is probably hidden behind some upholstery at eye level when you're sitting down. The interior upholstery has all been replaced pretty recently so I'm loathe to start taking that apart if I can avoid it. Hadlock posted:
Hadlock posted:Also of note is the mystery inspection port in the bottom left, it has an odd shape to it, curious what's in there. Hadlock posted:
Hadlock posted:.... Hadlock posted:
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Jun 1, 2022 14:30
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The old bulbs use a ~M5 or M6 bolt, and my replacement bulbs use a blade, so uh, not sure what to do here. What's left of the (probably original) wiring loom doesn't have enough cable left to splice on a blade clip, so either I bolt a blade clip to the existing cable, or.... solder a (the?) bolt to the blade. 
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How's the timing? if it's retarded, it'll feel that way. Sometimes, running it a little advanced (no knock) helps zip it up some, too.
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Jul 30, 2022 03:06
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Fifthing. You can always change it back. It’d be great to get a spare, preferably a cheap knockoff, drill down at the eyes, and install red filament LEDs. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 14:30
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Sorry if I missed the reason earlier, but why are you using 5w-30? It probably used a straight-weight oil (30?) when new; Consider using that, or 10w-30. Also, check your oil pressure & see if it’s within spec
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Oct 3, 2022 19:28
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Blow-by will show up at wherever the oil breather is, and/or at the oil fill cap. It's how I knew my 389 had to be rebuilt.
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Nov 2, 2022 02:59
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Looks fabulous in the long light. How's she running?
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Nov 29, 2022 01:09
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Hadlock posted:
Single greatest resource out there for us old-car guys are forums. Just a wellfont of great data.
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Nov 30, 2022 02:45
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I would work on the fuel-rich issue first (starting with the carb, float setting, and jets) before you do anything else; it makes it far easier to track down an issue by knocking them off one at a time. If you must, clean the plugs but do not yet replace them, as the heat range may be an issue as well. I assume that this has manual valve lifters; if so, add valve adjustment to your list, after carb and plugs; rockers tend to tighten over the years, and this can really restrict engine performance.
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Dec 2, 2022 02:43
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The below is copied verbatim from post at a Model A forum on the AACA website (https://forums.aaca.org/topic/189100-spark-advance/) (italics mine): Posted March 4, 2012 "If the car is timed right, when the engine is warm, it should idle with the spark lever all the way to the top or just below (i.e. fully retarded). Driving around town and at slow speeds probably 1/2 way down. All the way down should be for "pedal to the metal" driving! Basically, the faster then engine runs, the more spark advance you need. However, every car has had its timing set differently so you can't necessarily go by this. Basically, you need to drive the car and play with the timing and you'll find out the "spots" of advance where your car runs best under different circumstances. You may also want to play around with re-setting the timing if you do not feel you are getting the most out of your spark advance. A good rule of thumb is you should be able to smoothly increase the acceleration of the engine just by pulling down the spark lever (without increasing the gas at the same time). Hard to explain in words, but if you play with it enough, you'll figure it out!" The only thing I would add is that at full advance, under hard acceleration, you should hear no pinging (valve tap - sounds like castanets). If you do, you will have to retard the timing at the distributor until it stops under those conditions. On older cars, I would set it to spec, then advance the distributor timing until the valves start to tap, and then back it off a little. My first car - a '71 Toyota Corona MkII with the 8-RC engine - never ran right at spec, it had to be advanced 7-10-degrees. Also: when starting: if it's giving difficulty catching at a retarded setting, the spark should be advanced & then pulled back once it starts. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Dec 14, 2022 |
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Dec 14, 2022 17:17
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Hadlock posted:As mentioned in my post, zero plans on driving this thing on the interstate, taking 45-55mph county/state roads, sorry if "no highways or tolls" was not clear. That was how I did the 420 mile trip from DC. Stayed far, far away from I-95, had no issues Have you ever read Blue Highways by William Least-Heat Moon?
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Jan 17, 2023 03:50
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You can and should lube the parking brake cable at all friction/rub points. Use excess from your nippleganza lubin' To remove those two screws on the carb throttle plate: if you do not have a blade screwdriver that fits snugly all the way to the base of the screw slot, get one. Then unscrew them with deliberate diligence, purpose, and care. If possible, keep them for the next guy and replace them with hex cap screws. This will guarantee that you will nevr, ever, have to mess with it again.
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Jan 21, 2023 02:30
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Good goddamn, what excellent photos! That last one is  and you should post it in the Cute thread
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Feb 8, 2023 03:26
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That horn sounds exactly as French as I remember. My Mom's Renault 6TL horn sounded the same. It does sound like a fuel delivery issue.
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Feb 21, 2023 06:12
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Hadlock posted:... That may be low - but what is more important, is that they are withing 10-15% of each other. It's fine, so I wouldn't be overly concerned if your other methods don't raise it. Hadlock posted:.. The bag split. They tend to do that. The only permanent solution is to replace the ball joint, but in the meantime. lube it often to push accumulated dirt out. The ball joints on my '66 Pontiac do not have sealed bags, so grease itself acts as a seal - the lube interval is shorter to push in new grease to keep it clean. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Feb 23, 2023 |
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Feb 23, 2023 01:24
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You're right - it's not split. It may work like my Pontiac's though; you can try to clean the excess grease off of the joints using orange grease remover and a (softer, maybe brass) wire brush & once they're clean you can see where the grease is coming from. On the driveshaft zerk: are you sure that it was actually taking grease?
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Feb 23, 2023 03:11
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Less power, sure, but you're not beating the crap out of the rotating assemblies. Having one or more cylinders way off from each other means a rebuild is imminent.
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Feb 23, 2023 04:50
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Valve timing is really the first thing you should do for a tune-up. They tighten up with use, and this can cause them to open early & the engine isn't smooth (I'm facing this same issue with the I6 in my Econoline - even though it has hydraulic lifters, the valves are adjustable, and I think they're tight - it runs in an oddly rough way). After valve adjustment is the ignition timing. Only after these two are done should the idle mixture be adjusted. drat that is the most goddamned photogenic car. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Mar 8, 2023 |
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Mar 7, 2023 03:28
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OOOO! A Spring Special Econoline! I want to know where they sourced that tonneau cover. Took me a minute to notice the pickup next to THAT GORGEOUS CAR
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Apr 1, 2023 16:26
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Consider ordering a magnetic red blinking light. Usually used for flat-towing cars, or for some trailers; but in a pinch, it should provide a measure of safety if the lighting, especially rear, goes weird. A set of flares. A couple cans of tire goop in pressurized cans. Tire shop folks will hate you, but they are a life-saver
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Apr 17, 2023 00:57
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Oh poo poo! Is she moored in any potential path?
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Aug 30, 2023 03:05
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Nah, you're good. Nice mill, btw.
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Feb 21, 2024 15:35
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 23:33 |
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The smaller-diameter valves are the exhaust valves. They're white due to their inherent higher temps at operation. The intake valves are larger, and are darker due to the cooling effect of the air/gas mixture coming through. Number one cylinder is always at the front/pulley end of the block. A decent thread:P https://forums.aaca.org/topic/390819-what-do-you-know-about-rebuilding-a-chrysler-flathead-straight-8/ PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Mar 4, 2024 |
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Mar 4, 2024 16:42
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