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ROFLBOT posted:* Engine mounts practically guaranteed to be hosed if original Definitely get the engine out to do all those jobs. If you don't want to deal with the hydraulic lines, it's only 3 bolts to undo and then you can leave the pump behind in the engine bay.
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May 8, 2022 21:35
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Good to know, these jobs are all pretty straightforward (if time-consuming) but are sooo much easier with the engine out. Mental list of jobs to do prior to licensing: * * * * * * * * unblock/fix sunroof drains * compression test * check all lights work * tidy up paintwork if possible * ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Nov 8, 2022 |
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May 9, 2022 06:26
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Passengers' side door at least had the plastic still there but it had been messed with and wasnt put back properly, so although the trim externally looked in reasonable condition, this is what it looked like from behind... The fibreboard base had got so wet it had shrunk and no longer fitted the plastic trim. Also there were only 2 of the 6 christmas tree clips holding the whole lot onto the door 😒 Not really worth spending time fixing that, just need to go find a replacement door trim. I did however manage to fix the door lock which wasnt working, this is caused by the little plastic clips that hold the metal actuator rods breaking and the rod falls out and if youre really lucky, it jams against the glass the next time someone puts the window down - so now you have a door that wont shut/lock, *and* a window that wont go up! The door handle/lock mechanism can be a real bitch to get at as the bolts that fix it to the door are obscured by the window guides. Once i got them out i replaced them with bolts with Philips heads in them because theres just enough room to get a screwdriver onto them which makes removal the next time that much easier.
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May 17, 2022 03:18
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So i got notified the OEM PS reservoir hose i had on backorder was actually no longer available, so i needed to find an alternative solution. Asking for 22mm trans/oil hose at any of the common retail automotive shops just gets you funny looks so i had to go to a specialist industry supplier to get some. Cost me $40 for enough to replace the few hoses in that size i could see. The OEM hose was L -shaped which is not ideal when trying to replace with a straight length, i'll need to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesnt kink and if necessary get one of those shape-forming coils.  Whilst i had the intake out i thought i would start taking out the plugs and get the leads ready to come off for when the new parts arrive. For some reason there were signs of water in every plug hole, the plugs were a bit rusty and so were really tough to undo - like "im going to snap a plug off in the head" tough...  Nice....  Not sure how you would get water in there, the plug tubes are pretty well protected  Anyway i wanted to diagnose why it wouldnt start the last time so stuck a set of near-new NGKs in, put the intake back on and tried again. It wouldnt fire at all so figured the likely culprit was fuel, maybe the temporary pump i had put in had died. Bypassed the fuel pump ECU via a bridge in the engine bay diagnostics port (gives 12v direct to the pump). It fired right away and sat there idling as if nothing had happened, so another common-ish fault had occurred - the FP ECU had died. Will need to pinch the one off the parts car. Job list is supposed to be getting shorter not longer! ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 10:18 on May 22, 2022 |
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May 22, 2022 10:06
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I was back at it again fixing various bits and pieces. Both door trims are now back on, the power mirrors and windows tested and working so all good there. I went to start it for some reason and had the 12v jumper in to the fuel pump as from the previous attempt i thought the FP ECU was dead, however even with a direct 12v it wouldnt start. I kinda had a hunch that the pump itself was the culprit again, so pulled it out...   This has only been in since i got the car... it is of course completely dead now. In hindsight i should have prioritised pulling the tank before now but hey whatever, it has to be done because i dont want to stick another good pump in there. While i was in the back seat area i thought i'd pull out all the hifi/nav/tv modules that live there. They come out fairly easily and i figured it was worth getting them out to have a look at them because of the water that was in this area when i got the car, courtesy of a leaking sunroof   umm....   Only this one had obvious water damage, the other 3 modules looked ok. Not awesome but not the end of the world as these are not essential by any means so i'll leave them out of the car until i can get hold of a replacement for the damaged one. In teh meantime i have to prepare myself for the fun times ahead replacing the fuel tank and filter....
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Jun 6, 2022 10:12
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Interesting, I've never seen a cooling fan on the fuel pump controller before.
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Jun 6, 2022 12:06
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heh well spotted, that’s my custom ancient Celeron CPU fan mod, theory being one of the reasons these things die so often is because they run hot in a small space with no moving air. With the pump itself being 100% dead it’s possible the existing ECU is actually ok, if so i might see if i can stick a fan on it too just to help prolong it’s lifespan
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Jun 6, 2022 15:49
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Good idea, I like it!
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Jun 6, 2022 19:17
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I dont suppose youve got one of these with the factory wood trim spare?
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Jun 9, 2022 10:33
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ROFLBOT posted:I dont suppose youve got one of these with the factory wood trim spare? Oooooh, I don't think I do. I have two cars with this wood trim piece fitted. I've got a wood trim ashtray, I found it yesterday, and a wood EMV or two. It's actually hydrodipped plastic! I'm going to be selling one of my UZZ32's, I'm debating removing these wood bits beforehand as they are hard to find sometimes. Edit: I know I have one without lacquer, which is no better than yours. Would be good to find out what colour the lacquer is, to recoat it!
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Jun 12, 2022 00:38
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All good, was worth a shot. I managed to peel the rest of the lacquer off and cleaned it up, it actually doesnt look too bad, though of course it doesnt match the rest of the trim at all  
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Jun 12, 2022 08:48
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So this sat for a while as i was in Europe for a bit, when i got back a package was waiting for me Belts (including timing belt), dizzy rotors, fuel filter, complete spark plug lead set and some other bits. Not everything i'll need but its a start. So fuel tank time. First stop, the filter.  These can be tough to undo but this came off pretty easily. At least its been changed before!  The tank itself i was expecting to be a real PITA to get out, and it was. Theres 3 connections on the bottom of the tank that you have to get at with the diff/rear subframe in the way, in addition the rear suspension struts protrude into the cabin too much so they have to be dropped to make room.  Struts lowered, filler neck assembly required a bit of finessing to get out of the way Still couldnt get the tank out because the subwoofer on the parcel shelf was in the way so that had to go  Eventually it came out!  mmm mud....  The replacement tank is clean and ready to go, just need to clean the fuel gauge sender and fit. Of course its not just a float/resister type like LESSER POVERTY-SPEC cars, its some magical electrical sensor thing. All i know about it is it doesnt like fuels with lots of ethanol in, it starts to give off whacky readings 
ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 07:40
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I want one of those rear wipers for my SC 400.
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Aug 8, 2022 17:13
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This is what the old sensor looked like Everything in the old tank looked like this. Got the replacement tank all ready to go and tackled the usual fuckery of getting it back in place. Again this would be a piece of piss on a regular Soarer because there arent suspension hardlines and struts in the way. Crawled underneath and bolted the unions up, then started to fill with fresh petrol. This was the first of two noob errors as petrol started pissing out of the unions and down either side of the diff (a lot more than this pic shows)  Wasnt keen to get under there and try to re-tighten while getting covered with petrol so slid a bucket under there and waited for it to all drain out To cut a long story short, after dicking about trying to get the unions to not leak, i realised there was a bigger issue and i needed to take the tank out again - gently caress! an hour or so later... 
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Aug 27, 2022 12:21
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Turns out there were metal sealing washers that had to go top and bottom of the union bolts but because half of them were already rusted on in place on the tank which i didnt notice, i ended up doubling up on washers with the result that all the joins leaked like sieves. Lesson learned - always seal up the tank, add some petrol and check for leaks *before* you fit it into the car!!! The second noob error came after i finally got the tank back in again and everything tightened up and leak-tested. I left the fuel filter out, hooked up teh battery and let the pump run for a few seconds firstly so i knew it was working and secondly to get rid of any crap that might have been in the line between the pump and filter The problem with doing this was once petrol started coming out i created a syphon and even with the pump off petrol was now pissing out of the line. gently caress! Figured i could get the filter on without getting totally covered in petrol, of course that didnt happen and 5 minutes later sure i had the filter all tightened up but also had hands, arms and sleeves full of petrol I LOVE CARS
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Aug 27, 2022 12:23
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 Oh he got the BEST Soarer, though. Is the 1UZ's starter in The Best Spot Possible(tm) on the UZZ32 just like the rest of them?
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Aug 27, 2022 15:33
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It certainly is! Fortunately that one job isn't any harder on a '32 than on any other 1UZ
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Aug 27, 2022 23:12
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it is but i don’t get why people make such a big deal about the starter motor since 1) in nearly 20 years of owning multiple 1UZ-engined cars i’ve never once had any issues with a starter, and 2) it’s really not much harder to take the intake off and have it right there on top of the engine than it is to spaghetti your arms around exhaust manifolds in a tight engine bay It’s really not a big deal.
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Aug 28, 2022 18:29
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well, when you compare it to like a normal 350 or something, where its just bolted to the side of the block almost dangling in the breeze, anything more complicated seems like an adventure. well, unless you have headers on that 350 lol plus it just seems bizarre to need to crack open the engine to change what should be an external accessory, even if it's something "easy" like an intake manifold. it would be like if they put the alternator in the bellhousing or the water pump inside the timing cover or something weird like that. sure you could, but you shouldn't.
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Aug 28, 2022 20:28
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ROFLBOT posted:it is but i don’t get why people make such a big deal about the starter motor since 1) in nearly 20 years of owning multiple 1UZ-engined cars i’ve never once had any issues with a starter, and 2) it’s really not much harder to take the intake off and have it right there on top of the engine than it is to spaghetti your arms around exhaust manifolds in a tight engine bay I jest in my case because I did the job on a Celsior/LS400 in a hot Texas parking lot, and though the intake plenum was very easy to take off, it took me a bit to find the wiggle room necessary to get sockets down to access the two long bolts that hold it on. I am blessed to be lean and compact, I found that day. There was basically just enough room for me to slip the spanner and twist it over the bolt head to get it loosened, and not much room to actually turn the wrench...later I bought ratcheting box-ends and those save my *life.*
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Aug 28, 2022 22:36
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Raluek posted:well, when you compare it to like a normal 350 or something, where its just bolted to the side of the block almost dangling in the breeze, anything more complicated seems like an adventure. well, unless you have headers on that 350 lol How many times would you typically need to change a starter on a modern-ish engine in a car's life? Once? I guess they figured the tradeoff for getting extra space down the side/rear of the engine was worth it Anyhoo, this list * replace fuel tank (ive got a nice clean spare) * replace fuel filter * injector cleaner * replace driver's seat or buy seat covers * fix passengers' side door lock * check passenger's side mirror, fix/replace * unblock/fix sunroof drains * compression test * tidy up paintwork if possible * * turn airbag light off * fit steering wheel centred like i should have done the first time ...is now being short-cutted a bit, as i have a need to get the car licensed and driving ASAP (i want to sell my daily, there is potentially a new car on the horizon....) I chucked a KMart seat cover over the ripped drivers seat which should do and just need to work on the seat belts so they retract better which is one of the things they always get people on. Then maybe one last tidy up underneath the car. There is a slight exhaust leak on the drivers side near the engine, will see what i can tighten up there but not going to put huge effort in if its something really difficult to get at considering its likely all going to come out at some point, will hope they don’t pick it... ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Jun 16, 2023 |
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Aug 29, 2022 01:06
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Dizzy rotors  I dont think I've ever found an installed dizzy rotor on these engines that hasnt been cracked in some way I mean you'd think after a year or so in service back in the late '80s Denso/Toyota would have revised the design and added 0.0005 cents worth of plastic to make them a bit more durable but nooo ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Oct 16, 2023 |
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Sep 3, 2022 10:40
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OTOH it’s kinda cool that you can buy OEM from Toyota, an entire pre-wired HT harness 25 years after the car was made. No loving about trying to work out how all the leads fit here!
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Sep 4, 2022 10:50
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The number of still-available OEM parts for Japanese cars is impressive. It's equally disappointing when they finally drop a critical piece, like fuel level sensors or TPS's. Leading to heavily inflated used prices.
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Sep 4, 2022 20:52
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Raluek posted:it would be like if they put the alternator in the bellhousing or the water pump inside the timing cover or something weird like that. sure you could, but you shouldn't. If only you knew.... I can get one out in 4 hours, and back together in another 6. I'd gladly do 5 starters before doing a water pump! Edit: 1UZ is a big engine. On the Soarer, at least, there isn't space down the sides to fit a starter, nor is there in the tunnel. It's frame rails hard up against exhaust manifolds on both sides. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Sep 6, 2022 |
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Sep 6, 2022 20:32
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the spyder posted:The number of still-available OEM parts for Japanese cars is impressive. It's equally disappointing when they finally drop a critical piece, like fuel level sensors or TPS's. Leading to heavily inflated used prices. I want a set of fender guard pieces for the FD popup headlights. One side, still available. The other, nope. Thanks, Mazda. This happens all the time with Japanese parts, "oh yeah we will stop making these now, yeah we have 5000 left side ones available but only 30 right side ones, that's fine."
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Sep 6, 2022 20:34
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I might have mentioned this already, but check that the sunroof drains haven't shortened themselves with time/age, in the trunk especially mine had popped out of the drain holes and had filled the trunk with water. I just cut them partway up, and used some hose joiners and some PVC (aquarium style) hose to extend them back again.
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Sep 6, 2022 20:38
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Yep thats on my list, though we're coming in to summer so rain is not going to be a problem for a while...
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Sep 7, 2022 01:05
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Slowly ticking stuff off the list. The persistent airbag light on the dash was a worry, this would be another licensing instafail. Thought it might have been something to do with my cap replacements on the central airbag ECU which would suck as to get at it again i would have to remove all the centre console touchscreen and hvac/hifi controls which is a bit of a pain. Instead decided to be smart and tackle troubleshooting as per the workshop manual. First step was to see if clearing any fault codes/resetting the system worked, of course there's no handy OBD tool to do this so what you have to do is connect wires to two pins on the diagnostics port and ground them to earth intermittently in a pattern. Of course this is fiddly and a bit hit or miss but even after trying multiple times it was obvious this was not going to clear the fault and turn off the airbag light. I struck gold on the next step though which was to check continuity on the airbag cable from the steering wheel through the column. After popping the airbag assembly out of the wheel i checked the cable and it was open circuit. Bingo! Of course i just happened to have a complete steering column spare so pulled it out and metered it the same way to check - it was fine.  So it looked like the problem was in the spiral cable assembly (the thing with the yellow stickers above). Managed to get that off the column in the car without too much difficulty and opened it up...  What the hell?  How does that even happen? Anyway, that went in the bin and the spare one went in the car. Connected everything back up, connected the battery, turned the key and crossed the fingers Airbag light came on, and airbag light went off! Airbag did not deploy in my face. Success! ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Oct 16, 2023 |
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Oct 2, 2022 12:07
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Someone didn’t remove the steering wheel before doing a steering rack and spun the shaft a tonne getting it back in, munching up the spiral cable? I’ve had to diagnose and replace three of them in Toyotas and Mitsubishi’s now- a 2013 hilux and prado and an 07 Pajero, all of them failed the same way where they wore through and went open circuit. Meanwhile my nearly half million km old 05 100’s spiral cable just keeps trucking along…
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Oct 2, 2022 20:05
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Yeah that or it got hot and partially melted which then destroyed the copper tracks? Dunno, weird. Just glad its fixed, i didnt realise at the time but that fault would have meant neither the horn nor cruise control would have worked either
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Oct 3, 2022 01:42
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ROFLBOT posted:Yeah that or it got hot and partially melted which then destroyed the copper tracks? Dunno, weird. The clockspring carries all the signals for the steering wheel. Any buttons, including the horn, and the airbag go through it.
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Oct 3, 2022 03:09
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If you had to engineer 4WS on a car, how would you do it? Maybe hydraulically, with a couple of lines from the power steering pump to a rack just like the front? Maybe mechanically, with a steel cable to a pulley on the rack? Maybe electrically, with a motor to operate a rack? How about all three!   The level of engineering just never ceases to amaze me. ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Nov 1, 2022 |
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Nov 1, 2022 05:06
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ROFLBOT posted:If you had to engineer 4WS on a car, how would you do it? are you sure that's japanese and not german?
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Nov 1, 2022 06:45
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loving hell Toyota!  I've got a 2006 Nissan Fuga 450GT Sport aka Infinity M45S and it too has 4WS, or "Rear Active Steering". Earlier Nissan HICAS systems like on the 300ZX, GT-R and others consist of a 2 stage PS pump feeding a conventional hydraulic rear rack, controlled by the HICAS ECU. By 2006 the hydraulic rack is replaced with a fairly compact electric rear rack that connects to the rear lower link/spring mount - in non-RAS cars the inner end is simply solidly mounted to the subframe.   Blue circle indicates where the rack end connects. I'm no super high performance driver, and I know people like to disable the earlier systems because they can leak and fail or "feel funny", but I like this implementation, I think it does add to the pretty good turn in this heavy lump has, and also pretty tight turning radius around town.
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Nov 1, 2022 10:17
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ahh yes, my sum knowledge of HICAS is that thing that every Nissan owner removes or locks out….
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Nov 1, 2022 14:56
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There's much myth and legend around it. The hydraulic versions - yeah they can leak and fail like a regular rack, and it's not worth fixing if they go. Otherwise, you remove it because race car or you wanna drift, which fair enough, or you remove it because guys on forums say you should. If it's working and none of those things apply, you just wanna drive it, leave it, it's fine. The modern electric versions are seemingly very reliable. I've driven the Honda Prelude version, and you really feel the arse end move around on those things, on my Fuga you simply don't notice it working, it just does its thing. Modern electronics go a long way. Just went on a dive: https://www.autoweek.com/car-life/a1871191/four-wheel-steering-demystified/ Honda’s first 4WS system, launched in April 1987 on the Prelude, was all mechanical, using a shaft to connect the front-steering rack to a slider operating the rear tie rods. Mazda’s 4WS, introduced on the Capella/626/MX-6 used a rear-steering shaft to transmit steering angle to a hydraulic actuator. Mitsubishi’s system debuted on the Galant VR-4 in late 1987. It worked electro-hydraulically on the rear suspension links, with no mechanical connection between the front and rear wheels. Toyota’s Dual-Mode 4WS, first introduced on the Japanese-market Celica in late 1989, was conceptually similar to Mazda’s, combining a steering shaft, rear hydraulics and computer controls. Nissan have been through a few different designs, with the very early (R31) system barely a step above the passive rear angle designs that relied on flex in various bushings in the suspension and subframes, to the hydraulic rack, then electric versions.
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Nov 1, 2022 15:46
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I don't know much about Soarers except that the Supra guys would raid them for 1JZ engines. Great thread, and I appreciate all the detail and information. I could very nearly have become a SC400 fanboy, those were awesome cars but out of my budget when I was younger.
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Nov 3, 2022 17:44
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Raluek posted:are you sure that's japanese and not german? Definitely Japanese, because it literally never breaks. 5 UZZ32's in 11 years and never once had an issue with the 4WS system. And to be honest, I can barely believe it myself, the cars are now all around 30 years old. I've still got two, 4WS works flawlessly on both. Edit: Actually, there is a weakness. The power steering fluid tank's level sensor is mounted inside the cap, after repeated twisting of the wires when removaing the cap, combined with engine bay temperatures, eventually the insulation on the wires going into the cap can crack, leading to shorts or corrosion of the copper inside. Easily fixed with liquid electrical tape, though, but still a poor design choice. You can see it from page 1 of this thread (bottom left, just to the left of the coolant expansion tank): Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Nov 4, 2022 |
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Nov 4, 2022 02:00
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 14:44 |
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Current developments - I finally got all the interior back in and cleaned up a bit, i didnt bother too much with the rear seats as these are probably not worth saving, the leather was so dry it didnt survive my manhandling it in and out of the car and the backrest in particular ripped apart which required a bit of gaffa tape repair in order to pass inspection  Cleaned and silicon-sprayed the seat belts and sure enough that improved the retracting, enough so that they should be ok for inspection I had to make up another battery bracket as the battery im using is about half the size of the truck-sized ones these normally came with (and imo dont need)  Was feeling good about ticking the final few jobs off the list and was mentally working out a timeline for booking the car in for rego inspection so thought i'd take it out for a quick test run, this pretty quickly brought me back down to earth and added more jobs onto the list 😠 The worst one was the Power Steering was doing some weird poo poo, felt like the steering was locking up occasionally. When i popped the bonnet after the run there was obviously a problem as PS fluid was leaking from the bottom of the reservoir - what i think is happening is the right-angled hose that i replaced is kinking intermittently and stopping PS fluid to the pump and/or its causing the leak. Time to take it all off and either fit a hose former coil or put a right-angled joiner piece in there, and hope the leak isnt from a crack in the reservoir... There is an imbalance coming from the rear of the car, feels like a badly defective tyre but i suspect this could be the dreaded bounce that is a telltale sign of the hydraulic suspension not working properly.... which shouldn't be the case as both rear suspension struts were refurbed and regassed so they should be like new? Ive printed out the workshop manual diagnosis sheet and will need to run through this to see if i can pinpoint the cause. The other faults were more annoying than serious, for some reason the windscreen washer pump that i had already replaced a few months ago had stopped working so that has to come out again, and one of the indicator bulbs in the dash isnt working either so the dash has to come out again 🤬 Maybe this year it might be on the road? 😏
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Nov 8, 2022 03:14
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