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ROFLBOT posted:one of the indicator bulbs in the dash isnt working either so the dash has to come out again 🤬 It's a glass bulb in a plastic holder, they suffer from corrosion where the tiny legs of the bulb contact the holder, some contact cleaner should fix it up. It can be hard to figure out as the bulb will test OK with a multimeter, and so will the holder, but together? Nothing. One of mine stopped working as I started the car to drive to inspection, I've never removed/replaced the cluster so quick in my life! If you've not done it before, when removing the cluster, remove the steering column trims (the lower one has a hidden bolt behind the steering wheel, turn the wheel and look towards the lower right corner of the front face of the trim piece). Then loosen the two front steering column mounting bolts (from underneath) until they are right at the end of the thread, allowing the column to drop down that little bit. Otherwise you will scratch the plastic front of the cluster on the M6 nut on the top left of the column that has the spring and the ground tab under it. And yes it's a pain in the rear end unplugging these connectors, I smear them with dielectric grease when refitting to make it less painful for next time.
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Nov 9, 2022 02:05
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 22:48 |
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oh man, ive removed Soarer dashes sooo many times! (Still a PITA but at least i can do it quickly now) But thanks for the tip on the bulbs, i have some contact cleaner so will make sure the contacts are all good
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Nov 9, 2022 07:40
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No worries, it took me a few times before realising that dropping the column down saves so much headache.
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Nov 10, 2022 00:53
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ROFLBOT posted:If you had to engineer 4WS on a car, how would you do it? This might sound crazy, but this doesn’t actually seem that complicated to me. Looking at this schematic, the primary control for the rear steer comes from the electric motor driven by the computer. This moves one end of the floating link (with the rotary mechanism) that controls the position of the distributing valve. The rear rack then displaces in the direction necessary until the other end of the floating link matches the position of the computer control end, neutralizing the distributing valve in the valve body, thereby neutralizing the steering input to the rear steer and holding the rear wheels at a constant steering angle. The feedback cable from the front rack to the rear appears to move the sleeve for the distributing valve on a cam curve based on the position of the front rack. There isn’t quite enough detail in the schematic to see the exact function of the cam curve, but it likely increases or decreases the amount of rear-steer based on how far you’ve got the wheel turned. This is accomplished by moving the sleeve which effectively offsets the neutral position of the distributing valve in either direction as determined by the cam curve. The hydraulic lines are a red herring as that is just the supply for the high pressure oil and return for the drain side of the system. The flow divider merely provides adequate flow to both ends of the car. There also appear to be collapsible portions of each feedback linkage to prevent damage in the event one bottoms out before another, which is good basic design. It also appears to allow for the computer to be able to control the rear steer either in or out of phase with the front - i.e. in the same direction as the front to allow crabbing for high speed stability or opposite to sharpen up steering response in twisty corners. Overall this seems to be a relatively robust system that at the very least will fail-safe and give you a car that you can still drive to the repair shop (ROFLBOT’s driveway). (One of my areas I’m digging more and more into at work is mechanical governors for synchronous generators in hydroelectric plants. The concepts are similar to this system.)
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Nov 10, 2022 01:19
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Yep, pretty much. IIRC there are three modes of operation, One is where the rear wheels turn against the fronts, only at end of travel, controlled by the bowden cables. Another is where the wheels turn with the fronts, to allow the car to crab (high speed lane changes, etc) The third is related to the TRC system and crosswind mitigation, etc, where I believe it can turn the wheels however it chooses. In which case, the cables become redundant as there is already a steering angle sensor. It's a bit like the twin throttle bodies on the 1UZ, where the second one is controlled by a motor, meaning the whole thing could have just been DBW to begin with! Oh, and speaking of fail safe, the rear rack is held in place by a pretty beefy spring arrangement (similar style clutch disc damper springs), so it defaults to centre.
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Nov 10, 2022 02:48
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I've been looking through the workshop manuals getting info on troubleshooting the suspension issue and read the section on the 4WS, essentially you guys have it right, its all translated from Japanese so not perfect but you can understand whats going on. In the couple of short low-speed test drives i've done so far the 4WS is by far the most noticeable difference between these models and the other Soarers, in normal driving it feels a lot more agile and u-turns are way sharper than you would think! I need to get more seat time to evaluate how different the active suspension feels
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Nov 10, 2022 04:08
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So its very much a case of two steps forward, one back at the moment. Just when i think im getting close to the end another few issues pop up. Obviously a few things that were just hanging on when i first got the car going are now failing with continued activity. The power steering issue was two faults in one that are both sorted now. Firstly i replaced the reservoir to pump hose that i had already replaced before, this time with some wire-wound hose that wont kink. There were no issues with the reservoir itself so maybe the hose clamps just werent tight enough.  The real cause of the steering "locking up" became obvious when i had a look in the engine bay with it running, any load on the main hydraulic pump was occasionally causing the drive belt to slip with the obvious effect of little/no pressure for the steering/suspension. This was of course the one belt that i didnt bother replacing first time around because it thought it would be tricky... Oh well, lesson learnt. In the end it wasnt that hard, its a short belt that runs off the crank behind the main accessories belt. Replaced and tensioned up and the problem was fixed. The windscreen washers both front and rear decided to stop working, again after i had already replaced the washer pump with one off my parts car. Turns out these are a common part for a bunch of Toyotas so ordered a new one this time off ebay for $30. Annoyingly when i fitted it there still was no water getting to the windscreens  I could hear the motor going so figured the lines or nozzles must be blocked, which was weird because they were working a few months ago. Anyhoo i had to pull the front wheel lining out to start tracing the hoses through the car, this meant removing the wheel which then uncovered another fault, the suspension strut boot had torn off at the bottom. Luckily it had ripped fairly neatly around where the bottom clamp was holding it, so I cut that section off and used one of those double-wire clamps that would fit around the boot better.  Removing the wheel lining uncovered more pipes and hoses (not surprising) but also revealed the washer hose blockage - someone had been in this area and when they had put the wheel lining back they had pinched the washer hose between the lining and a metal bracket as per the following high-quality image  The hose to the rear washer with my test bit of hose connected  Anyway chopped the flattened bit of hose out, replaced and finally i had working washers!
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Nov 27, 2022 08:53
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I had moved the car out of my shed to work on it outside as it was a nice day, when i had finished up for the day i went to reverse it back in and dropped the drivers window so i could look out as i backed it in As the window went down i heard an ominous CLUNK - a sound that strikes fear into the heart of many Soarer owners. As mentioned before this is usually the sound of the exterior door handle actuator rod coming out of its plastic guide and the moving window hitting it and jamming it - so you now have a window that you cant close and a door that you cant open. FFFFFFFFFFFF............................ Decided to leave it overnight and hope that my resident shed rodents didnt take the opportunity to get in through the open window. So the next day the door trim had to come off AGAIN  After a bit of poking around it turns out the actuator rod was still in it's place and it was actually the window mechanism that had failed - its just a motor that moves a steel cable that has a plastic mount on it which the glass is fixed to. Over time the plastic becomes brittle and if there is too much resistance from the glass sliding in its channels the plastic breaks and separates from the cable, thus the glass doesnt move any more. In a way this was good because its a lot easier to get the window mechanism out than it is to fix the door handle rod thing which is a PITA This is the bit that holds the glass, the white plastic part is what has broken  Have to push the glass up and tape it there because we dont want it falling down while trying to get the mechanism out of the door  Undo a few nuts and the whole thing comes out of the door   There’s no point fixing these as they are still available new - the plastic parts are well past their use-by date anyway. Ordered a new one from Megazip for a bit over $120, let’s see if it turns up this side of Christmas… ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Nov 27, 2022 |
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Nov 27, 2022 09:17
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Another new job added to the list was various turn signals and brake lights deciding to stop working - i found this out when i got a new Japanese warning message come up on the dash Turns out it was just a couple of blown bulbs so pulled the boot lining out to start replacing them in the process i found this bracket mounted above the boot vent in the wheel well with Toyota part stickers on it. Never seen this before so looked it up  Turns out its a mount for a mobile car phone computer (!) The computer and any signs of a phone installation are long gone which is a pity as a '90's spec car phone although totally useless would surely be 10000 extra JDM coolness points 
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Nov 27, 2022 09:28
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Woo, almost 3 months have gone by.... and not much has happened. Really for no other reason than its summer and too drat hot to be in the shed! Well that and life just generally getting in the way. Probably another month of hot weather to go, then it should start getting nice again. I think from memory i just need to get one of the indicators working and the turn signals in the dash, then maybe its ready? Must not procrastinate....
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Feb 22, 2023 14:29
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Really been enjoying this thread (much like I binged Pomp and Circumcized's); can't wait to see it get back on the road again.
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Feb 25, 2023 10:34
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ROFLBOT posted:Woo, almost 3 months have gone by.... and not much has happened. lol, my procrastination is top-shelf. So summer is coming around again but ive probably got a month or 2 before it starts getting really hot. The lack of activity is due to the usual life stuff, a lot of house renovations in particular It was a nice weekend so i actually got out to the garage and although i didnt touch the 32, the parts car got some attention mainly to start breaking it down into useable spares, stuff that i can sell, and junk and a shell that can be disposed of. I kinda need to get going with this because the engine is still worth $1000-$1500 and if i can show it running before the local wildlife chew through all the wiring it will be a lot easier to sell. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=io8JwO9EPhM This was after i cleared the pile of leaves and sticks that rodents had thoughtfully covered the engine with. The rearward shot is because this car has a side exhaust with no mufflers  Its not pretty but she still goes!
ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Oct 16, 2023 |
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Oct 16, 2023 02:43
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Bye bye little guy, you took a beating and served me well     These came out really easily, these cars are really good to work on. I'll strip the few remaining useful parts then roll this out to be collected for scrap. The wheels are a bit too good to waste but i dont have anything else to put on.... is it worth getting some other crap wheels? Not sure, its not like i need these ones. hmmmm
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Dec 30, 2023 10:33
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UZZ30's are so rare these days.
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Jan 2, 2024 15:19
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yeah cause the two of you bought them all, lol e: or did you mean 30s are rare compared to 32s? only after i posted did i notice that you didn't say 32  what did this one do to deserve to die? judging by the decals and tires, it has led an interesting life. Raluek fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jan 2, 2024 |
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Jan 2, 2024 22:13
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In terms of rarity, most V8 Soarers were 31's, then 30's, then 32's The 30 was less common than the higher-spec 31 simply because it was only produced for 3 years. The stripped one above was a 31 though by the time i got it the air suspension had been removed and replaced with standard shocks/coils. I bought it cheap long before Soarers started to disappear from the roads and yes it did lead an interesting life 
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Jan 4, 2024 04:56
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Very few UZZ30's produced in their 3 year run, vast majority of V8 Soarers are UZZ31's. Unfortunately the production numbers for the UZZ30 include the SC400 so it's not much use. What I can say is that I've seen many many more UZZ32's than UZZ30's in my time. Usually when you see a V8 Soarer with flat suspension tops, it's just a UZZ31 which has had coil spring suspension fitted. I bought loads of Soarer parts from a place that used the shells for banger racing, they loved how strong the platform is for contact racing.
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Jan 5, 2024 23:01
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The plan so far for the 32 has been to fix just enough to get it passed for licensing, then when thats done go to town on it. I got close... But now that i have no need to press it into service and following a new thunking noise when i last moved it around which i suspect is the engine and/or gearbox mounts finally giving up the ghost (a common thing), i think im going to go ahead and pull the engine/box to tackle the long list of maintenance/replacement/mods and do things properly first. I have a feeling that with the exhaust manifold leak, the no doubt stuffed mounts and a couple of other issues its not going to pass anyway and i'd rather fix those plus all the other maintenance with the engine out. Having just pulled the engine on the bunky Soarer its probably a good time now that the steps are all fresh in my mind. Before engine-out time though i thought i'd do the diff swap On regular Soarers/Supras etc this is pretty straightforward, of course with a 32 it isnt. The rear steering rack is bolted to the back of the subframe and is sandwiched by the spare wheel well. This neatly makes the 3 rear bolts holding the diff nearly impossible to get to. The rack has a bunch of connections for PS fluid and cables and such that didnt look very easy to remove nor did i want to disturb them, in talking to other owners who have done the swap, it is possible to get the bolts out without removing the rack, but its a prick. I have a hex-head socket that i normally use for this but there was nowhere near enough room to get it on the bolts, so $50 later...  Yes, a 12mm allen key was $50.... Anyway after a lot of loving around trying to manipulate the rack to get enough space, i got the bolts out 
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Feb 18, 2024 04:31
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Old and new The LSD diff with the different casting with extra cooling fins, i think these ones have slightly more oil capacity but thats just a guess. It had been overfilled with oil hence the leakage at the front. I drained it to check the oil, there was a bit of poo poo in it but still looked good so i filtered it and put it back in to the correct level. It didnt stink like normal diff oil so i presume it was the correct stuff for clutch-plate diffs The new diff went back in place but it was still a prick to do up the rear subframe bolts, so i improvised - cut the end off my $50 Allen key and used a ratcheting spanner to tighten with it 
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Feb 18, 2024 04:38
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Axle bolts. Ive seen these come loose before if not done up super-tight, i put a drop of thread locker on to make sure Tightened everything up and went to drop the car off the axle stands, but couldnt get the jack high enough  The car was tilting on an angle, then i noticed the front left wheel was up in the wheel arch - the hydraulics had lost all its pressure on that side. Ok NBD, had to gently caress about a bit to get it off the stands, then i thought i shouldnt leave it like that so went to start the car to get the suspension level againOf course the loving thing wouldnt start, and i suspect that YET AGAIN its the fuel pump if so thats the second one its killed since ive had the car, not sure what the issue is. TBF the one that i put in there isnt correct, its off some other Toyota, so now i have the excuse to put the one i pinched off the parts Soarer in. And pray it lasts longer than the others so far.Rage quit at this point, im not mucking around with petrol in 40+degree weather, thats a job for another day 
ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Feb 18, 2024 |
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Feb 18, 2024 04:41
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Ah yes, a typical day of working on a '32. Blood, sweat, tears, and you're left with a car that still doesn't work. Glad you managed to get the diff swapped, yeah those are a real pain to get to. Toyota lovingly made the bolts easy to get to, but then for the '32 just banged a steering rack right over the top of them, lol.
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Feb 21, 2024 19:58
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OK, time to find out why *blessed car* wont start. First, throw a bit more petrol in the tank as we dont want to fall for the oldest trick in the book here  Undo one of the fuel lines in the engine bay, turn ignition on and......  Nothing. ooookkkkaaayyy
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Mar 2, 2024 08:22
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So this lot has to come out (again) Break the plastic seat belt buckle surround in the process? Sure, why not.  The fuel tank hatch is behind the seat, i forgot to take pics while getting the pump out so here's a pic from my old track car - its the round thing behind the seat  Got the pump on the bench and hooked it up to 12v, not surprisingly nothing happened. Thought i'd try the old trick of tapping it with a hammer, and sure enough it started hahah But i wasnt happy with it, plus the hangar and wiring looked pretty horrible (it was the original one from the car when i swapped the tank out) so decided to swap the entire pump and hangar assembly with the one from the parts Soarer which was in much better condition  ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Mar 2, 2024 |
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Mar 2, 2024 08:26
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Stuck it all back in the car, connected fuel lines back up and went for a start https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZgsD_i-d00 Yay! A minute later - that looks better! 
ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Mar 2, 2024 |
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Mar 2, 2024 08:36
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Nice work. Fuel pump issues are usually caused by the fuel pump controller (under rear passenger window behind the trim panel), these are quite costly these days, so it's probably a good thing that it was the pump, and also there's now the peace of mind that it won't break again soon. Something else will break soon instead > .
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Mar 7, 2024 13:54
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I did plan on swapping out the FP controller with my special modded one with the cpu fan on it, but i was so happy to have the car running again i just left it at that. Over the next month or so the temperatures should start getting a bit more reasonable so i should get stuck into pulling the engine provided i don’t spend all my weekends doing house and garden stuff (drat responsibilities)
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Mar 10, 2024 13:42
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I pulled the engine on mine recently (I'm currently in the process of stuffing it back in!) You can leave the suspension pump in the car if you don't want to disconnect the lines, but it's a horrible job, you need to remove the big front plate and lower the subframe a bit to get to the rear bolts. Much easier to suck it up and lose the $100 of fluid, sadly. I'm happy to help if you have any questions on pulling this engine, it's not an especially pleasant job at the best of times (big engine, small bay), and of course on the '32 it's just "more".
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Mar 15, 2024 15:38
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Ah good, thanks for the tip As i mentioned previously the fluid isnt that expensive here so if it makes the job easier overall that sounds like the way to go. On the weekend I spent a bit of time rearranging the crap in my garage so i would have room for the both the car and the engine/box on the crane where i can work on it. I also need to do one final bit of diagnosis while its in running order re: the dash - i need to know whether the suspension fault message that you can see in the video above is genuine or if its a false error due to the dash not being the original/correct one for the car. I just confirmed that there are different part numbers for the dash PCB between the standard 30/31 V8s and the 32, so the possibility of it being incorrect is there.... ROFLBOT fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Mar 18, 2024 |
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Mar 18, 2024 02:02
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 22:48 |
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Yep, the 32 dash is unique, a 30/31 dash won't work correctly. I'm not sure what's different, hopefully you can swap internal bits around with your original dash to make it work?
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Mar 19, 2024 20:58
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