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Hey, sorry I wrote a big reply to this thread earlier but it's not there. Nice thread, thank's for sharing. Thanks for "taking the reins" for UZZ32 content!! Some stuff I saw when browsing through: 1. My time working on ships has taught me never to use drinking liquid containers for chemicals. 2. Fix suspnsion strut leaks ASAP as you are doing- the rubber boots and bump stops perish quickly 3. Land Rover fan clutch spanner for the 36mm flats on the front strut pistons. Regular 32mm wrench for rears. 4. AU$30 for 2.5l fluid is crazy, in UK we can only get 5L for £90 (AU$160), so almost 3x the price. 5. Look up the racetech SPNV nitrogen bolts https://racetech.com/page/title/SPNV%20INSTALL%20WP - these replace the standard fill bolts and are pressurised with a needle. You can get 2-3 recharges from them per bolt, much easier than opening the accumulators to add valves. 6. 1200psi for the brake accumulator. Though more shouldn't hurt. 7. Yes do the lockout screw when removing the struts. But to de-pressurise, you need to use the bleeder to release the pressure. Doing so also shows nitrogen level - 250ml of fluid ejected means you're full. And it's a sliding scale from there! If you depressurise before removing, you can compress the strut by hand afterwards (more fluid comes out the bleeder) to make it much easier to remove. 8. Sunroof drains can get clogged, but normally they shrink in length over time and pull out of their homes in the boot floor. I cut them shorter and extend them with new hose and a coupler. 9. I've got 3 spare valve bodies in case you need any parts, but I know plenty of Aus guys who will have them as well, and a lot closer! Sorry for the brief reply, I'm watching the thread! Thanks for sharing. I've seen your bits on the FB group as well  I currently have 2x UZZ32's in bits in my garage, I actually just got them both back on the floor this weekend. One's going up for sale, the other will be my "forever" UZZ32, and I promise myself there will be no more after this!! Edit: If you haven't already, get yourself a copy of the translated UZZ32 service manual. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 23:57 on May 3, 2022 |
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May 3, 2022 23:55
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 03:47 |
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sanchez posted:I had no idea "fan fluid" with a reservoir could be a thing. So the hydraulic radiator fan has its own pump and reservoir, but best of all, it has its own little tiny baby radiator in the left wheel well just to cool the radiator fan's hydraulic fluid  All of this because the viscous fan would not clear the hood in the LS400 location. The whole thing is just to relocate the fan a few inches downwards. And yes it's ECU controlled, there's a bypass valve on the pump to turn it on and off as required. Even better, the suspension fluid radiator has an electric fan, so Toyota KNEW ABOUT electric fans but still put this system in. Don't get me started on the multiple throttle butterfly valves...
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May 4, 2022 18:19
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ROFLBOT posted:In any case the rear struts have been done already, im gradually filling in the posts here to get the thread up to date. The front struts seem ok but i wont really know until i can take the car for a good drive - in any case if they do need an overhaul i think i will tackle this myself rather than pay $$$ to get someone else to do them. You can't just drill into the fronts when you weld the bung on the side, the swarf gets into the o-rings on the piston. Gotta open them on the lathe! This is why I went for the racetech bolts. Agree that the rears are no problem. ROFLBOT posted:Oh yeah, this is peak hydraulics. Im sure if Toyota could've made hydraulic power windows they would have. There are 7 hydraulic pumps in that engine bay. There are 8 fluid reservoirs and 9 fluid filling locations, for 9 different fluids. Can you name them all? I'm not counting the AC system in any of that. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 18:24 on May 4, 2022 |
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May 4, 2022 18:21
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Reserviors: Brake fluid Engine oil (pan) Fan fluid PS fluid Suspension fluid Washer fluid (dilute) Washer fluid (concentrate) - this is meant for bug/tar remover, or heavy concentrate / windshield cleaning solution. Not just regular washer fluid. I put 100% concentrate in mine because meh. And yes the UZZ32 has three different washer spray actions on the stalk. Engine coolant Potential 9th is transmission oil pan, if you count it as in the bay. Filling locations: One for each above, but include transmission oil fillter Fluids: As above The 7 pumps are: Brake/TRC accumulator pump Suspension pump 2xPS pumps (in tandem, offset by half a lobe for smoothness) (Second PS pump) Fan fluid pump Water pump Transmission oil pump Engine oil pump Torque converter (if you wanna count it) Washer fluid pump (dilute) - this is one pump which can be spun in either direction to pump towards the front or rear glass. Washer fluid pump (concentrate) Oops, guess there are 10 or 11 pumps! Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 01:12 on May 6, 2022 |
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May 6, 2022 01:10
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PBCrunch posted:Jesus H. Christ, a special high-test bottle of windshield washer fluid. OK here we go: ECU 4WS Active suspension Power steering (force control) Engine fan control ABS Mirror control Mirror vibration control Cruise control HVAC Tilt/telescope steering Integration relay SRS airbag controller Keyless entry control Fuel pump controller Door lock control EMV Cassette player 12 disc CD player Audio tuner Audio amplifier Audio controller Subwoofer amplifier Navigation double CD unit TV tuner GPS navigation computer Rear camera controller (option) Wiper controller (built into stalk) In-car phone (option) Probably loads more that I missed. Any yes, sensors galore. Suspension has 4x height sensors, 3x accelerometers (vertical), yaw rate sensor, two-axis gyro.
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May 7, 2022 18:04
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ROFLBOT posted:* Engine mounts practically guaranteed to be hosed if original Definitely get the engine out to do all those jobs. If you don't want to deal with the hydraulic lines, it's only 3 bolts to undo and then you can leave the pump behind in the engine bay.
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May 8, 2022 21:35
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Interesting, I've never seen a cooling fan on the fuel pump controller before.
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Jun 6, 2022 12:06
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Good idea, I like it!
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Jun 6, 2022 19:17
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ROFLBOT posted:I dont suppose youve got one of these with the factory wood trim spare? Oooooh, I don't think I do. I have two cars with this wood trim piece fitted. I've got a wood trim ashtray, I found it yesterday, and a wood EMV or two. It's actually hydrodipped plastic! I'm going to be selling one of my UZZ32's, I'm debating removing these wood bits beforehand as they are hard to find sometimes. Edit: I know I have one without lacquer, which is no better than yours. Would be good to find out what colour the lacquer is, to recoat it!
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Jun 12, 2022 00:38
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It certainly is! Fortunately that one job isn't any harder on a '32 than on any other 1UZ
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Aug 27, 2022 23:12
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Raluek posted:it would be like if they put the alternator in the bellhousing or the water pump inside the timing cover or something weird like that. sure you could, but you shouldn't. If only you knew.... I can get one out in 4 hours, and back together in another 6. I'd gladly do 5 starters before doing a water pump! Edit: 1UZ is a big engine. On the Soarer, at least, there isn't space down the sides to fit a starter, nor is there in the tunnel. It's frame rails hard up against exhaust manifolds on both sides. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Sep 6, 2022 |
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Sep 6, 2022 20:32
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the spyder posted:The number of still-available OEM parts for Japanese cars is impressive. It's equally disappointing when they finally drop a critical piece, like fuel level sensors or TPS's. Leading to heavily inflated used prices. I want a set of fender guard pieces for the FD popup headlights. One side, still available. The other, nope. Thanks, Mazda. This happens all the time with Japanese parts, "oh yeah we will stop making these now, yeah we have 5000 left side ones available but only 30 right side ones, that's fine."
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Sep 6, 2022 20:34
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I might have mentioned this already, but check that the sunroof drains haven't shortened themselves with time/age, in the trunk especially mine had popped out of the drain holes and had filled the trunk with water. I just cut them partway up, and used some hose joiners and some PVC (aquarium style) hose to extend them back again.
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Sep 6, 2022 20:38
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Raluek posted:are you sure that's japanese and not german? Definitely Japanese, because it literally never breaks. 5 UZZ32's in 11 years and never once had an issue with the 4WS system. And to be honest, I can barely believe it myself, the cars are now all around 30 years old. I've still got two, 4WS works flawlessly on both. Edit: Actually, there is a weakness. The power steering fluid tank's level sensor is mounted inside the cap, after repeated twisting of the wires when removaing the cap, combined with engine bay temperatures, eventually the insulation on the wires going into the cap can crack, leading to shorts or corrosion of the copper inside. Easily fixed with liquid electrical tape, though, but still a poor design choice. You can see it from page 1 of this thread (bottom left, just to the left of the coolant expansion tank): Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Nov 4, 2022 |
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Nov 4, 2022 02:00
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ROFLBOT posted:one of the indicator bulbs in the dash isnt working either so the dash has to come out again 🤬 It's a glass bulb in a plastic holder, they suffer from corrosion where the tiny legs of the bulb contact the holder, some contact cleaner should fix it up. It can be hard to figure out as the bulb will test OK with a multimeter, and so will the holder, but together? Nothing. One of mine stopped working as I started the car to drive to inspection, I've never removed/replaced the cluster so quick in my life! If you've not done it before, when removing the cluster, remove the steering column trims (the lower one has a hidden bolt behind the steering wheel, turn the wheel and look towards the lower right corner of the front face of the trim piece). Then loosen the two front steering column mounting bolts (from underneath) until they are right at the end of the thread, allowing the column to drop down that little bit. Otherwise you will scratch the plastic front of the cluster on the M6 nut on the top left of the column that has the spring and the ground tab under it. And yes it's a pain in the rear end unplugging these connectors, I smear them with dielectric grease when refitting to make it less painful for next time.
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Nov 9, 2022 02:05
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No worries, it took me a few times before realising that dropping the column down saves so much headache.
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Nov 10, 2022 00:53
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Yep, pretty much. IIRC there are three modes of operation, One is where the rear wheels turn against the fronts, only at end of travel, controlled by the bowden cables. Another is where the wheels turn with the fronts, to allow the car to crab (high speed lane changes, etc) The third is related to the TRC system and crosswind mitigation, etc, where I believe it can turn the wheels however it chooses. In which case, the cables become redundant as there is already a steering angle sensor. It's a bit like the twin throttle bodies on the 1UZ, where the second one is controlled by a motor, meaning the whole thing could have just been DBW to begin with! Oh, and speaking of fail safe, the rear rack is held in place by a pretty beefy spring arrangement (similar style clutch disc damper springs), so it defaults to centre.
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Nov 10, 2022 02:48
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UZZ30's are so rare these days.
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Jan 2, 2024 15:19
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Very few UZZ30's produced in their 3 year run, vast majority of V8 Soarers are UZZ31's. Unfortunately the production numbers for the UZZ30 include the SC400 so it's not much use. What I can say is that I've seen many many more UZZ32's than UZZ30's in my time. Usually when you see a V8 Soarer with flat suspension tops, it's just a UZZ31 which has had coil spring suspension fitted. I bought loads of Soarer parts from a place that used the shells for banger racing, they loved how strong the platform is for contact racing.
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Jan 5, 2024 23:01
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Ah yes, a typical day of working on a '32. Blood, sweat, tears, and you're left with a car that still doesn't work. Glad you managed to get the diff swapped, yeah those are a real pain to get to. Toyota lovingly made the bolts easy to get to, but then for the '32 just banged a steering rack right over the top of them, lol.
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Feb 21, 2024 19:58
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Nice work. Fuel pump issues are usually caused by the fuel pump controller (under rear passenger window behind the trim panel), these are quite costly these days, so it's probably a good thing that it was the pump, and also there's now the peace of mind that it won't break again soon. Something else will break soon instead > .
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Mar 7, 2024 13:54
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I pulled the engine on mine recently (I'm currently in the process of stuffing it back in!) You can leave the suspension pump in the car if you don't want to disconnect the lines, but it's a horrible job, you need to remove the big front plate and lower the subframe a bit to get to the rear bolts. Much easier to suck it up and lose the $100 of fluid, sadly. I'm happy to help if you have any questions on pulling this engine, it's not an especially pleasant job at the best of times (big engine, small bay), and of course on the '32 it's just "more".
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Mar 15, 2024 15:38
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Yep, the 32 dash is unique, a 30/31 dash won't work correctly. I'm not sure what's different, hopefully you can swap internal bits around with your original dash to make it work?
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Mar 19, 2024 20:58
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