|
Seat Safety Switch posted:So this will take a turbo K-car engine, right? If it'll take that, it'll probably take a SRT Neon (or PT Cruiser Turbo) swap. 
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2022 05:01
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 12, 2024 20:46 |
|
|
There's no air port on a carb. You have ported vacuum and manifold vacuum. Your brake booster needs to be connected to a manifold vacuum port (it'll either be on the intake manifold or a larger one at the base of the carb, usually on the back). Distributor is connected to ?!?!, you'll need a vacuum diagram for that (some use ported, some use manifold). It should run decent with either port, but being a smog era car they did some weird poo poo - if it's on the wrong one you may wind up with a hunting idle. Emissions stuff will be a mix. Does it seem like it's running rich or lean? If it's lean it'll probably pop and maybe die if you try to give it gas. May need to adjust the float level if it's lean. You did clean the jets while you had the carb apart? Also, timing being off will make it run like rear end, same if your vacuum advance isn't hooked up. Make sure all the unused vacuum ports are capped off too. The fuel pump is probably fine. When those mechanical pumps fail, they usually do so by dumping gas into the oil. You can disconnect the fuel line (... and coil) and try cranking it, you should get strong pulses of gas while it's turning over. If it's trickling or otherwise weak, check the fuel filter first. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:22 on Jul 5, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2022 11:12
|
|
|
Get a good bender, a good flaring tool that matches the OEM stuff (probably double flare) (and ALWAYS double check that the nut is on before flaring), and some nickel-copper tubing. That tubing is soft enough to bend by hand for long bends, but a bender will make things cleaner.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 21, 2022 02:17
|
|