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Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Took my Ormsby to a local luthier here who is apparently pretty legendary in the community. He agreed with me that the neck has some super thick shoulders and he's going to reshape it a bit and give it a nice oil finish. It'll probably be 3 or 4 weeks before I get it back though.

Also I noticed while polishing the frets on my MJ Dinky that you can see wood grain running through the inlays. What's up with that? The only explanation I can think of is they are just pretty thin and I'm seeing the wood underneath them? They are pearloid fwiw

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Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
I don't mind necks being bolt on, but I hate the standard Fender style big rear end block of wood type of neck accesses. They should all be like my MJ Dinky imo.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
On the topic of metal bands doing acoustic stuff I always really liked this song.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wswKhCaD5I

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
you come up with the goofiest problems, landgrabber. "North Carolina has crazy weather, guess there's no making any good music here"

E; Keep on learning how to set up and adjust your guitars though, you'll get better at it. I'm in Alabama myself, so I have to occasionally tweak mine. Really not a big deal after you get used to doing it. It's insane to think people have to pay like 40 bucks every time that happens. I'd get some feeler gauges for measuring relief and a string action gauge if you don't already.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

Agreed posted:

I love the way C Standard sounds acoustically but I don't always like how it sounds recorded on 24.75-25.5" scale guitars, maybe I'm still using strings that aren't thick enough for those tunings (tend to bottom out at 10-52, some in 10-48) - I'd love to get a baritone to keep that low, though.

Get an Ormsby like I did! I've been keeping it in C# most of the time though. 27.5" scale on the bass side helps a lot. I also feel like 25.5 starts to get a little meh once you hit C and below. I think I just don't like strings being that heavy. Plus I think the bigger the string the more bassy it's going to sound.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
I've been messing around with my old 7 string I got back from my brother, and set it up in Drop A. I've been enjoying doing these meaty chords on the bottom 3 strings, from lowest note to highest for example D-A-E which are frets 5-5-7. What kind of chord would this be? On a standard tuned guitar, the way I play them, they are usually just inverted power chords. However with that string dropped down, it's basically stacked fifths. The way I tend to play them inside my riffs, it still sounds inverted like that middle note is still the root, so would it just be an A sus 4 chord?

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
I have a headrush 108, it's alright, but pretty boomy even sitting on some foam. I think I had to put the high pass on my Helix up to like 110hz or so to get rid of it.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
you just need to buy more guitars so people know you are serious about it

And yes. I feel it sometimes even though I'm not a beginner. And it can apply to anything. Think about how most people feel their first time going to a public gym. What would you say to them? It applies to yourself as well with guitar. Although if it's fairly problematic, seeking therapy or something would probably help, a thing I really could benefit from myself.

Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Aug 7, 2022

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
It might "ruin" the first couple of lessons, but if you find a good teacher you'll get familiar with them pretty fast and feel better.

Anyway, it's definitely a thing people experience. If it continues to be a problem, don't be afraid to go talk to a professional about it.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
I actually put off practicing a lot and just noodle around because I'm afraid I'll be so bad once I actually play to a click or record myself, that I'll get depressed even though I'm already depressed. Brains are weird. I also play unplugged a lot of time as well because I also get paranoid I'll wind up hating whatever tone I dial in(I blew a lot of money on a helix so I guess I'm afraid I'll wind up not being capable of putting it to good use) and again, get depressed and feel bad. Did I say brains are weird?

Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Aug 7, 2022

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
guys, what sort of powder do they coat the alligator picks in so I can buy a bag of it and store my picks in. very serious right now.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
It doesn't feel like chalk, I've done plenty of deadlifting. Although it could be a different type of finely ground up chalk, but I don't think it's typical lifting chalk. Although I've been meaning to try my lifting chalk on my picks, I'll post an update when I do.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
The stuff on the gator grips feels smoother, and simultaneously slick and grippy, but isn't as grippy or immediately drying as chalk makes your skin feel like

e: Also guitar noise guy, I have your exact same problem. I've just gotten used to it and work around it with noise gates(and moved my desk/setup a few times until I found a quieter spot), but fwiw Fishmans have been significantly quieter than EMGs or passives that my other guitars have.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
so no one found out for sure what the powder is on the gator grip? i'm okay with it being a carcinogen

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Don't forget the strings above the nut. Even locking trems can make noise there, my Warrior does it all the time. All though I'm not sure if it's an issue under loud amplification, I always hear it acoustically.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

Stalizard posted:

I finally got somebody interested in my Ibanez with the Kaoss pad and traded them for a more regular RG with a whammy bar that someone upgraded with Seymour Duncans and a D-Tuna. Neat!

How much is a Floyd Rose style tremolo going to make me hate myself? As it came to me one of the strings is snapped at the headstock but still held in place with the locking nut, and I think it came with .10s and I'd like to replace them with 9s. I know everybody says to replace the strings one at a time, but after that is it just a matter of eyeballing the bridge level and adjusting the springs in the back until it's right?

Floyds only suck in the sense that you have to dedicate more time to string changes and set ups. It's not hard at all if you're willing to put a little time in to learn. No more time than guitarists spend screwing around with any of their other crap though. Restringing and setting up a Floyd guitar is a zen feeling process for me these days. You don't need to change strings 1 at a time, that would only work if you keep the same gauge and tuning anyway. Plus you might want to clean your fretboard or whatever.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJIXFFFxf_g

Let me see if I can type out a quick reference guide if it makes it easier.

1. Find an item to jam somewhere under your Floyd Bridge that will keep it from falling into the guitar, and will keep the unit level with the top of the guitar. I stack credit cards and put them under the back of it on the front of the guitar. You can add or subtract until you get the right amount so it sits at the right level. Tighten the claw on the back so you have some extra pressure pulling the bridge into your card stack or whatever.

2. Loosen your nuts, take strings out. The bridge should still be sitting against your card stack. If you want to temporarily add more cards or use something that will jack the bridge up higher that might make it easier to get to the bolts that hold the strings into the saddles.

3. Restring it. You can feed the strings in backward through the tuning peg if you want. It doesn't matter. Make sure you put your string as far into the saddle as it goes after trimming the excess length, and lock the saddle down so it gets a good bite. Don't use crazy excessive force when tightening the bolts back.

4. Make sure you have your bridge level again with whatever object you are using to block it. Make sure there' s a bit of extra tension in your claw in the back of the guitar so it's pulling the bridge into your blocker, that way when you are tuning and faffing about you don't accidentally pull the bridge up and have your card stack fall out. You can start tuning your guitar. Make sure to stretch the strings and retune it a few times. You don't want to have to deal with strings stretching once everything is locked back down. Also make sure your fine tuners are somewhere in "middle settings" so you can adjust in either direction. A lot of guitars thick strings go a bit sharp when you lock the nut back down, so sometimes I purposely leave the 3 thicker strings a little bit flat on purpose before I lock the nuts back

5. Lock your nut back down once you have it tuned. Make a note of what your bottom and top string are tuned to, whether you get it dead on, or if it's a little flat. Pull out your cards/blocker. The bridge will go out of whack and your tuning will be out of whack but this is okay. You just need to slowly loosen your claw until your bridge raises back up back to level. Recheck your tuning, because you are aiming to get back to where you were when you had it blocked. Once you get it pretty close, you can adjust with your fine tuners, and you are basically done and you'll be in tune and your bridge will be sitting level with the body.

Once you do it a couple of times, you'll pretty much immediately understand what's going on with everything. I have like 4 or 5 locking trem guitars and I don't even do much whammy bar stuff, I just like the tuning stability and how the bridge feels on my hand.

Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Sep 2, 2022

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

landgrabber posted:

how do i make it so my strings don't have so much tension in them? without tuning down, obviously.

my action isn't too terribly high, but i have to do a good amount to get the strings down. trying to get it so i can fret stuff with a pretty light touch in jazz band -- bluesette and take five are hell

More neck relief and lower action will make a very small difference in reducing tension since it effectively shortens the overall length a little bit, but it's pretty minor to be honest. If your relief is already set well I wouldn't mess with it, but I've noticed a lot of my guitars play better with a bit more relief than a lot of people would usually have on a shreddy guitar, you just need to lower the action a little to compensate. If you start getting buzzy around fret 12-15ish you might have gone overboard with the relief though.

Also I'm buying another multi-scale guitar tomorrow. Multiscale is cool and looks cool.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

800peepee51doodoo posted:



Hell yeah, whatcha getting? I was a bit worried when I got a multiscale that I would have to relearn or adjust to it but, nah, it feels natural and I didn't even notice it. I really like having the tension on the bass side without having to fight so hard for bends on the treble side.

Schecter SLS Elite, the 7 string multi scale version. I have that model in a normal 6 that is one of my better playing guitars so I had to jump on this. My only gripe I can really say about it, is Schecter makes the fretboard wider than it needs to be for 7 strings. But the neck is razor thin which makes up for it. I've been up since 4am for work, then had to drive a few hours to get it after so I'm too beat down to really dive deep into it yet. Tomorrow it's going into Drop F# so I can try out some of this new Spiritbox content on Riffhard, once I'm done with that I'll probably tune it a half step down from standard because for the most part, I don't like super low tuned stuff.




Please excuse the bit of visible mess, I work like 60 hours a week and I'm highly depressed, so buying guitars has to be my priority right now.

Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Sep 10, 2022

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
After playing my Ormsby for so long which is a 27.5-25.5 over 6 strings, the fan on this guitar really isn't even noticeable, although I think I'll come to prefer it for sure. The Ormsby is a tad excessive.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
I honestly keep it in C# or C most of the time. At least it's a nice and tight sounding C#. Plus I don't have to use monster strings. I think I have a .50 or so on the bottom string for C# and it's not floppy at all.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Speaking of, I'm not as well acquainted with modern 7 string metal as I am with my favorites, so if anyone has any songs in Drop F#, or for later one when I do A# standard/Drop G#, that have sick riffs, let me know. So far Holy Roller is the main thing I'm excited to play.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

Helianthus Annuus posted:



Do those arm rests come off that office chair / do you own an angle grinder?

I play in classical position so the arms aren't an issue really. Although the cats have beat this chair to poo poo.

Also if you guys are impressed with my multi scale guitars, just wait until I actually start practicing and get good at playing them.

Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Sep 10, 2022

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Get some cheap beater guitars and learn to level/crown and do setups yourself! It's not that crazy and it's nice being able to tweak your guitars to be as playable as they possibly can be without having to pay someone else money to do it, and they may not even set it up how you specifically like it.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Wouldn't those squiggly fret true temperament guitars only sound good in some keys and make it sound worse in others? Do you have to pick squiggle styles based on a couple of keys you want to play in? Would changing tunings and string gauges gently caress up your perfect squiggle tuning or intonation?

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

ColdPie posted:

If you want good music theory YouTube, check out Jake at Signals Music Studio.



Also 12tone.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Hey guys, is there an ear training app that will just play intervals a couple times, wait a second, then tell you what they are? The idea is so you can do ear training and you just listen and try to answer along with it while you are working or driving or something. Every ear training app I've seen requires some amount of interaction. If not, I reckon it would be a really good idea. I could make some sound files from guitar pro and a text to speech program to mix up in a playlist. I'm just curious if it's already a solved issue.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Oh I think I tried that one, but it was really confusing what you were even supposed to be doing and the interface and everything just seemed kind of bad. And I think it just plays general chord progressions that you listen to, then a random note and you pick out what scale degree it is, at least that's how it started me off. Is that the better way to do it, or is it better to just start with simple intervals?

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
In a moment of rash impulsiveness I financed my MJ Dinky. The payment on that thing was more than my car. Glad it's paid off now. Having decent credit can be dangerous I've learned.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
I had a similar issue the other day.



e: She's at it again and really annoyed this time.


Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Oct 2, 2022

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Katana is a pretty cool amp. One thing I would suggest checking out if you want easy, sick rear end metal/rock tones, is to check out some of the popular plug ins like Neural DSP Gojira if you have an audio interface and reasonably decent speakers on your computer. Makes it super easy to record stuff too. The Katana can do that, although I'm not sure if you can use it just as an interface to play the plug ins or not or if you'd need a dedicated audio interface.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvO2iZjMRRQ

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
My hand feels like it can't really tilt the pick the opposite way when it's time to sweep back up. It's like my wrist just can't do that motion without it being awkward and weird. Although maybe one could still sweep without tilting the pick so much that way, I dunno. I haven't really tried practicing it anytime recently.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

landgrabber posted:

there’s no musical purpose to sweep picking

ah the trusty "music i don't like isn't music" take

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

landgrabber posted:

think about all of the insane harmonic implications that running through arpeggiations that fast have. maybe you can use it as a decoration but how much, realistically, does it add to a composition?

it adds a lot if it sounds cool. what are you some kind of music theory hall monitor or something?

I think this solo sounds cool in this song even if it has bad harmonic implications
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAJhswlEdTo&t=179s

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Sweeping is just a picking technique anyway, it isn't locked into any kind of composition other than it needing to be at least kind of fast. It was just weird to gatekeep a picking technique.

Thunderhorse has a cool sweep at the start too. I'd love to play that someday. It's fast, so hard to hear the individual notes, but it still contributes really nicely to the chord changes and serves the song really well.

Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Oct 3, 2022

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

landgrabber posted:

i just think the world would be a much better place if guitarists were more concerned with the actual melodies and harmonies they're playing, rather than the techniques they use to play them

One has to do with composition, the other with proficiency in playing the instrument. Gravitating toward one more than the other is fine if that's what a person likes to do.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
this is like the guitar version of "i guess no one wants to work anymore"

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

landgrabber posted:

and while we’re at it: why are guitar players, especially men, so reluctant to write anything that just sounds pretty, or delicate?? like, i’ve been in guitar stores and heard people start stringing together chords with extensions— and it sounds really cool, and in my head i can hear the next chord, really lush and pretty…

and then boom, you get a blues chord, or something diminished, because they almost got too emotional for a second, or wrote something “for chicks”.

I'm confused by this completely off the wall scenario you are projecting, are they just in the guitar store noodling around and trying guitars, or are they sitting down for a serious from the heart writing session which they failed by playing a chord that was too masculine?

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
To temporarily block it during tuning/string changes, stacking credit cards and shoving them between the foam padding and back of the floyd on the top of the guitar is easiest. For a dive only block to leave in, you can indeed stack coins, or just buy a simple little bracket with a grub screw from amazon for like 15 dollars that works well, and can be adjusted to free the trem up. Just search for trem blockers.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
I used a chunk of glastic at work once, but honestly it's annoying as hell finding the right size object to block a trem so it sits level. That's why I like just buying the cheap bracket or stacking coins, it's easy to just adjust.

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Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Alright guys, this is the easiest and fastest way to block and tune/change strings, no fiddling around with tuning over and over while constantly adjusting the claw back and forth

Get some business cards. If you have 1 that's really tough and stiff to throw in there the better(I use a little string height gauge made of metal).

There are two ways you can block it with the cards.

This way, which you do when you want to get it level with the body, just add or remove cards to adjust it.


However, doing it that way makes it slightly annoying to unlock the strings because the screw things are sitting against the cards. So when you want to unlock your strings you can lay the cards over the top of the body to jack the Floyd up higher into the air to access the bolts better. Or you can skip this part, it's still possible to turn your screws the first way, just slightly annoying.



Anyway, block it, tighten the claw in the back so you have decent string pressure pulling the bridge tight against your card stack(otherwise they might fall out as you are adjusting things), change your strings. Once your strings are changed, make sure you block it with the method that lets you get it level with the body, with plenty of claw tension pulling the strings into the card stack. Set your fine tuners to a good middle ground, tune the guitar, stretch the strings, tune it more, stretch more. Once it's tuned, take your card stack out. Your bridge will immediately sink in, and your tuning will be hosed. Or will it? Use the claw, and loosen it so the bridge returns to being level. Keep your tuner on and keep loosening your claw until your guitar is back in tune, or within a few cents. Lock your nut, adjust tuning again at fine tuners if need be.

If you don't tighten the claw against the cards fairly well, depending on what tuning you are adjusting it to, the string tension might pull the Floyd up and away from the cards.

Also you can use this method with any other thing that blocks it, just make sure the bridge is level when you do.

Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Oct 4, 2022

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