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Dr. Faustus posted:new thread new rule no e/n that means you lg I enjoy landgrabber posts in the guitar thread. Stairway to Heaven sounds cool but is a bad song to learn as a beginner, IMO. In the era of guitar tabs on the internet it promotes a bad habit of learning how to play notes but not teaching you anything about why they work together. It might be beneficial to put a note in the OP somewhere to say: "Don't order anything new online through Guitar Center. They will send you some bullshit open box/floor demo trash from a store location without the original box and blue painter's tape on it. If you have to order from there for some reason, call them and ask the salesperson to send it from distribution/warehouse."
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Jul 8, 2022 21:50
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Gramps posted:https://www.guitarfetish.com/Vintage-59-Classic-Alnico-V-Humbucker-Black_p_21820.html The lineup of humbuckers from GFS is confusing. I just put a set of GFS Alnico V humbuckers in a guitar, but they were these (except Zebra): https://www.guitarfetish.com/GFS-professional-Series-Alnico-V-Humbucker-Black-Case-Neck-Pickup-5-Wire_p_35021.html Both product pages claim to be their most "authentic" take on that style, although the link I gave doesn't call itself a "Patent Applied For". Just SEO tricks? I don't have an opinion on how PAF-y the professional series is. I don't know what a PAF is supposed to sound like. They sound OK to me.
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Jul 9, 2022 20:16
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landgrabber posted:unfortunately, the cost of gas being what it is, and my distance away, i’m pretty sure it would actually be cheaper for me to just buy a cheap rear end looper pedal. Nut slots that are too wide for the strings in them can cause a "sitar" sound, but I think that particular problem only happens when the string is played open. That sitarring noise comes from the string vibrating in the nut slot, which would not happen if it were fretted. Changing string gauges will put the geometry of the neck out of alignment from where it was at the setup on heavier gauge strings. Going to lighter strings means less tension pulling the neck forward, which would change how much work the truss rod needs to do. I don't think going from 10-46s down to 9-42s would be a huge difference, but it could be enough to reduce the clearance of strings over the frets at various points up the neck that sketchy frets which weren't causing problems before could suddenly come into play. If it was the G string having issues I would ask if there were too many or not enough winds on the tuner post. Those are somewhat common issues that happen when changing strings on Fender (non-tiltback) necks. Both of those can cause bizarre issues due to break angle and pressure at the front of the nut slot. I think those kinds of problems are much less common on the B and high E due to the string tree.
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Jul 27, 2022 02:52
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Disco Pope posted:Man, my 2001 MIM Strat (acquired through a swap for F-Zero GX, £100 and an entry level Ibanez) has been through the wars of being dropped by a friend at a show and various house moves, and it was kind of beat-up but I'm glad I could never part with it and got it properly set-up, because it's the guitar I keep coming back to. I put 9s on it the other day and I'm in heaven. Wet noodles? As in not substantial enough/bend too easily? As nitsuga says, the first guess is probably something in the setup. I could see how extra light strings with higher action might not be noticeably harder to press to the frets but might feel bad because there is more travel. Further questions would be: same brand of strings? Does the tele have 6 individual saddles or 3 barrels? If it is six individual saddles on the tele, are they blocks or bent steel (and is that the same or different than the strat)? I've seen people complain about slinky/noodle-y feel on guitars where the strings were sliding around on the saddles a little bit, instead of staying in narrow slots. An even more farfetched possibility would be having a telecaster bridge with strings through the end of the bridge instead of up through the body. I don't know if Fender even sells any with bridges like that. I have a plywood T-style guitar that was unbelievably cheap on Amazon, and it has that kind of bridge. I guess not drilling through the body and putting in string ferrules saved some production cost.
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Jul 29, 2022 04:01
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I would think Squier Classic Vibe quality is at least as good as MIM stuff now due to price pressure from their lower product lines. I haven’t seen recommendations to pay for Fender over Squier for quality reasons in a long time. It might be worth considering an HSS strat over the normal configuration for versatility. Finnerty got me when, in the middle of going in on pop punk, he cut to waving the white flag to ask for safe passage from MCR fans. Then I realized I Brought You My Bullets came out 20 years ago and felt ancient.
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Aug 2, 2022 18:45
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duodenum posted:Why does Ibanez put the one ferrule out of line with the others? It looks like a mistake, but lots of them are like that. Sometimes proper intonation requires the saddle on the lowest string to be moved pretty far back towards the end of the bridge. I guess you could end up in a scenario where the saddle begins to overlap with the baseplate hole in the top of the guitar, which would mess up the angle as the string passes through the saddle towards the neck. Moving it back a few mm just gives a little extra clearance, I guess? In the picture of the top of the NDM signature model (which also has the low E ferrule out of line), you can see the baseplate hole for the string under the low E saddle starts farther back than the other strings: https://www.ibanez.com/usa/products/detail/ndm5_1p_02.html
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Aug 4, 2022 02:16
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muike posted:When I bought the overpriced (imo) horizon devices overdrive i also bought some of the picks they have, which I think are like tortex jazz IIIs or something in a really pleasing baby blue and they're now my favorite picks. I also bought some strings from Horizon Devices which I do actually recommend because the gauges were really well selected Looks like Horizon has Ultex Jazz III and (Ultex? Delrin?) Flow shape picks in that light blue color. I definitely like that color better than the standard Ultex piss yellow. I went down a rabbit hole a few months ago examining different types of picks and trying some out. The Flow shape is available across a lot of the Dunlop pick product lines now, more than the Jazz III XL which I think it is very similar to (a little bit wider maybe). As someone with larger hands and technique like a clumsy baby, I think a Flow-shaped Gator Grip would be ideal, but it just isn't available for now.
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Aug 10, 2022 23:15
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Reaganomicon posted:this is my cover of "House Of The Rising Sun". please forgive the audio, it's just my iphone, my guitar doesn't have a pickup & i'm too lazy to try to make better videos. I've never performed music in public before but i secretly wish to be a rock star or at least, constitutionally able someday to perform music in front of people Singing and playing that briskly seems super challenging. Things seemed to come through OK enough on the iPhone mic. What model guitar is that?
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Aug 14, 2022 13:03
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Disco Pope posted:Okay I got super hosed up last week and might have joined a goth band, how do I get good fast or how do I change my name and move to Spain? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pm18BQ2C5A0 What counts as "goth" is up for debate, but Anyone Can Play Guitar has done lessons on a number of Siouxsie and the Banshees songs, a few for The Cure, and Bela Lugosi's Dead (for whatever that is worth in reality).
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Aug 15, 2022 01:13
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stoopidmunkey posted:Check out the group axes4music on fb. That take orders that go through a Chinese “replica” factory. They do whatever you want. I got them to make an lp with a Tele headstock for under $300 and it’s very, very nice. It’s the same factory that makes the stuff at badcatinstruments.com which is my favorite “budget” brand. Much better than the fireflies I’ve bought. Little better than my agile but much less expensive. I still need to post pics and review the monstrosity I had them make but haven’t had time. I hadn't heard of Bad Cat Instruments until yesterday when I saw two videos about their "P4M Olympic White Metallica James Hetfield Custom X-Explorer". Obviously not endorsed by Hetfield in any way, but the EMG branded pickups seem to be terrible fakes also. There are other problems as well, but I think once you confirm it's too good to be true you can reset your expectations to be more realistic. Videos are from 60 Cycle Hum: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhUw26pvoT0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OurXFWFidq4 The extremely bootleg Explorer is now sold out on the Bad Cat website, but that's not to say you couldn't get essentially the same thing from that group on Facebook. Just be careful you aren't GASing too hard about bootleg stuff.
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Aug 18, 2022 00:28
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luchadornado posted:What's a good budget power supply for pedals to start with? I was thinking 5-8 ports. Was looking at that Harley Benton for $41, but I'm not dropping $30 on shipping for that. If you're staying away from the many-branded 10 output power supply for $40 on Amazon, the TrueTone 1 Spot Combo Pack (as muike is indicating) is the cheapest way to get a lot of outputs from a well-known brand. https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/1SpotComboPk--truetone-1-spot-combo-pack I haven't read anyone say their $40 Amazon power supplies went bad on them. I have seen people say that the outputs on those aren't actually isolated, despite whatever the Amazon pages claim. That may not make any difference in reality. It's a big step up in price to get to an isolated supply from a brand known specifically for power supplies. However, those may have some resale value as used if you outgrow them. TrueTone's 1 Spot Pro or Voodoo Labs' Pedal Power offerings are on the lower end of the price scale from those well-known brands.
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Aug 21, 2022 01:37
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Dr. Faustus posted:Next string change I would check all the measurements around the neck and then try tilting the neck angle with the same amount of shim as a single strip of business card. Tilt the high-point of the bridge saddles back down toward the face of the instrument. We could get you a lot of adjustment back just by doing that one thing, but people get super weird about shims and shim materials. ? Would this be a "reverse" neck shim situation? Have you had success using cardboard strips in that case? I'm familiar with people putting a strips of cardboard in the bottom of the neck pocket to add to the neck angle, but the problem descriptions seem like the guitar needs the opposite of that. Assuming here that "maxed out" means the saddles are as high as they can go to get the strings to clear the frets at the end of the board. luchadornado posted:... Grats on the successful pedal build. Looks pretty good unpainted, too.
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Aug 27, 2022 03:18
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At the risk of causing GAS exposure, the MXR-AnalogMan collaboration "Duke of Tone" was officially announced. It seems to be a close relative of the Prince of Tone in a mini pedal footprint. Stores are accepting preorders for $150 (close to the price of the Prince of Tone), and there's a bunch of videos up on YouTube about it. I've heard getting a Prince of Tone is more feasible than the 4+ year long wait for the King of Tone, but it involves camping the Analogman website on Wednesdays and hoping to snag one. I saw this video on the Duke of Tone from Peach Guitars in the UK and thought it was interesting. It features some really nice playing and some discussion about how you would use one of these. Although famously based on the Marshal Bluesbreaker pedal (same as JHS Morning Glory), the video calls out that it isn't really "transparent" from an EQ perspective. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6GWJ7q2yl4
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Sep 3, 2022 03:15
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Baron von Eevl posted:Doubleposting for a fun game of identify the pedals! The huge red thing toward the upper left is definitely this monstrosity.
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Sep 3, 2022 15:46
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Lord Stimperor posted:Just a quick check: the intonation on the surprisingly nicer Squier Mustang I bought last year is off on the low E. With simple fixed bridges like this I can just take a screwdriver and pull on the bridge a little yes? It's the one from this post? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3341553&userid=222973&perpage=40&pagenumber=2#post518681644 We would call that a "hardtail" bridge, not a "fixed" bridge. The alternative on a Fender electric guitar would be a "tremolo" bridge (which is really vibrato, but Fender have mixed those two up since the beginning), like a 60s Mustang, Stratocaster, or Jazzmaster. Acoustic guitars have fixed bridges, where the strings ride over a single piece of bone as a saddle that you can't easily adjust with a screwdriver. There should be adjustment screws on the back plate (looks like they will be under the ball end of the string). This video from Phillip McKnight shows him adjusting intonation on a Strat. Even though it is a tremolo bridge the process is the same because it has the same 6 movable saddles. (You probably don't need step 1 from the video, but a Mustang is 24-inch scale). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn3Zl-4IGsg&t=78s Based on that picture from last year I would guess low E plays sharp at the 12 fret. You would want to loosen that string, turn the adjustment screw to the right (tighten), a half or full turn at a time, to move the saddle toward the bridge, then tune it back up and check open and at 12 again. Ideally do a final check playing the string while the guitar is in playing position. On some guitars the weight of the neck can pull a string a little bit sharp when it is laying flat vs held upright. e:f;b Major Operation fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Sep 24, 2022 |
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Sep 24, 2022 12:28
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landgrabber posted:or maybe a better question is just: what's a good rat with more options/tweakability? curious about getting some adjustment out of one. The TC Electronic Magus Pro is another take on the Rat that has an additional switch to change up the sound, while still staying under $100 new. Not to be confused with their Grand Magus, which is just a Rat clone. https://www.tcelectronic.com/product.html?modelCode=P0EBX Stacking an overdrive pedal with asymmetrical clipping after the Rat might also be an idea here? The word on asymmetrical clipping overdrives/distortions is they amplify odd and even order harmonics above the fundamental, which would be why the most famous asymmetrical clipping pedal, Boss SD-1, has a bit more aggressive/dissonant tone than a Tube Screamer. The Boss SD-1 may not be what you want to try this with because it definitely has a pronounced effect on EQ, boosting mids by quite a bit and cutting lows. If you can find a way to try one out with a Rat, the Timmy (available in the cheaper MXR custom shop form) has an asymmetrical clipping mode and is known for being fairly transparent. Other somewhat cheap overdrives with asymmetrical clipping you might be able to try/borrow: Earthquaker Plumes or MXR Custom Badass Modified O.D. The Plumes selects clipping modes with a switch (like the Timmy). The MXR CBAMOD, in addition to being tediously named, is supposedly asymmetric like the SD-1 with more tone options, according to people that claim to have analyzed the circuit board.
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Sep 26, 2022 13:03
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Took some of my own advice and tried out putting a Rat in front of a Timmy. I don't have a JB in a strat, so the closest I could get was a PAF-style bridge pickup in an LP-style guitar going into a clean amp. Honestly, I don't know that there was enough of a difference to matter once the distortion on the Rat got past 12 o'clock. Signal is just so clipped already that any additional content from asymmetrical clipping might be very faint or might be my imagination. It did bring out the mids a little bit, but that might be achievable with just adjusting the amp EQ. Pedal board action shot with the Rat clone from early days Chicago Stompworks: 
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Sep 27, 2022 00:28
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Pedal steel, maybe? e: a little low on steel though
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Sep 27, 2022 01:17
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luchadornado posted:The retro sonic is going to be my next pedal I think. On a scale of 1 to Andy Summers, is it as good as the Internet makes it out to be? I don't have the deep experience in appreciation of flanger to really give a good answer on this. The other flangers I have to compare it to are either super cheap analog or super cheap digital multi-effects from Amazon. It does seem significantly better than those, but I can't give a comparison to an original Deluxe Electric Mistress or anything. It sounds good, like my ideal of what an analog flanger is supposed to sound like, and the controls seem straightforward. I can't think of how it could sound any better, but I'm also not a big Summers fan or anything. I have no idea why you would want to turn off that LFO sweep, but I guess somebody wants that feature? The design did change slightly over the summer (they sent an email), so newer ones would look like the one on the website instead of what you see in the videos.
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Sep 27, 2022 23:30
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Seems like some number of pedals are on decent sale at Sweetwater right now. Looking in the section on delay and reverb, I saw two in particular: T-Rex Creamer (Reverb): https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Creamer--t-rex-creamer-reverb-pedal I already have one of these, and it has a pretty good spring reverb sound. The other settings are kinda "eh?", but it's 50% off if spring is a sound you need. Flashback 2 (Delay/Looper): https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Flashback2--tc-electronic-flashback-2-delay-and-looper-pedal I have the mini flashback somewhere. Knobs on the mini seem too sensitive to me, but the sounds in it are good. I loaded an Echoplex sound onto it that was (I think) created by Andy of ProGuitarShop/Reverb demo fame, and that sounded pretty excellent for a digital pedal. Some of the Behringer pedals are in the sale as well. https://www.sweetwater.com/dealzone/c631--Guitar_Pedals__and__Effects-deals#dealzone-banner Any of the pedals listed with 3 patch cables in a bundle do not appear to be actually on sale; they might just be trying to clear out some patch cable inventory space.
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Oct 1, 2022 00:42
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BizarroAzrael posted:I ordered new wiring and pickups for my SG for coiltapping, and so I got shown a bunch of other guitar parts and started thinking about doing my own assembly. How does pairing a neck to a body work, do you just match width and scale length? Are fittings fairly universal or should I always aim to match manufacturers? Talking about bolt-on neck guitars, its often a matter of how closely things stick to the matching Fender specifications. Fender grants licenses to other companies to make replacement necks and bodies that will match their specs. So a body and neck that match the Fender spec for a given style (strat and tele are the big ones) will probably be close. Trying to get a pickguard that would match predrilled holes from some other vendor is still a risky bet since there's no declared standard for those. You do have to be somewhat careful, I believe. There are places that sell guitar parts that look like Fender parts but don't necessarily match up exactly. Obviously, in a world where you do a lot of measurement with feeler gauges and rulers indexed to 64ths of an inch, being off by 3/32nds of an inch in some dimension between neck and body (like neck pocket depth) might be a major problem. I'm currently working on finishing assembly of a guitar using a body and neck from Warmoth. No issues with those parts going together, but a full Warmoth build ends up being more expensive than just buying an American-made Fender. Warmoth has a big list of different body types, but the vast majority (outside of Telecaster types or Mustang/Jaguar) are designed to accept the Fender Strat neck heel for a 25.5" scale. The Warmoth YouTube channel and Unofficial Warmoth forums have a lot of information on building with their parts specifically, but some of that bleeds over into the general topics also. https://www.youtube.com/c/warmoth/videos
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Oct 4, 2022 03:02
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Stalizard posted:it was the only one they had at (don't make fun) sam ash the day i impulse bought my first pedal, a mini tube screamer, and realized it didn't have room for a battery. if you guys tell me what's a good regular power supply I'll put it on the list Voodoo Lab makes isolated power supplies that are very popular and widely used. I haven't really seen any bad reviews of them. Truetone makes true isolated supplies as well under the 1Spot Pro line. Again, they seem to review well. I think the isolated power supplies that online music stores like Sweetwater/American Musical/Zzounds/etc. sell should all meet a respectable baseline of reliability. It is easy to imagine that selling dodgy power supplies could cause a spike in customer service issues from the power supplies themselves and any pedals that customers purchased around the same time. The best-reviewed high end power supplies are from Cioks. They are more expensive than the other brands I mentioned on a per-output basis but are very low profile and are flexible on voltage/amperage per output. Best-Tronics Professional Audio, one of the places that builds touring pedalboard rigs, only sells Cioks supplies on their website. Looking at the BTPA website, they have a video time lapse of a pedalboard build where Truetone 1Spot Pros are used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQlIz5yZ1FU
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Oct 4, 2022 13:33
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Got a Duke of Tone delivered today. No sound when turned on, regardless of volume/gain position, right out of the box. Signal passes through in bypass, and the LED lights up when turned on but no signal out to the amp. Womp womp womp waaaaa
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Oct 5, 2022 00:24
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Baron von Eevl posted:Is there any chance, even the slightest one, that you have the input and output reversed? Mini pedals are pretty universal about input on the right and output on the left, I think. I generally test any new pedal alone on a single Truetone 1Spot and single input and output cables to avoid possible confusion. I got it back out of the box and plugged it back in to confirm. For a test, I was able to get some signal out of it with wiggling the output cable, but not reliably. So, the signs point heavily toward a dodgy output jack on a new pedal out of the box. Have my RMA request open already.
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Oct 5, 2022 02:04
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luchadornado posted:Is there a reason pedals aren't left to right? It's kind of maddening to me for some reason. Stalizard posted:we're all right footed It might have something to do with circuit diagrams mostly being drawn from left to right, leading to the circuit board layouts tending towards that design as well (at least in the early days). Circuit boards are installed through the bottom of the pedal, and then the pedal gets flipped over, changing the circuit flow back to right to left. No evidence on this one, just an idea I've had about it before.
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Oct 5, 2022 03:37
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darkwasthenight posted:The bypass is a pain in the dick to rehouse or there'd already be a market for it. Lad I work with managed it but said it wasn't worth the time and effort that went in versus just building your own clone on PCB. I found someone selling FZ-2 clones on Reverb a while back. https://guptech.ca/products/boss-fz-2-fuzz-clone I got one and it sounds pretty close to what I expected, although I've never heard an original Super Fuzz or the Boss FZ-2. When I looked inside I think it was just using a PedalPCB circuit board. Don't know if he's updated to a new layout since. I have the germanium fuzz face clone from the same place that does seem to have a custom PCB. Having said all that, I'm at very low risk to ever join a Doom Metal band, so I don't know what my plan was for an FZ-2 in the first place. Not sure what the resale market is going to be like for hand-painted, Canadian clone pedals.
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Oct 12, 2022 20:49
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I don't have an opinion on Nickelback's body of work in total. "Hero" was inescapable in 2002. I guess the credit on the song is only for Chad Kroeger (feat. Josey Scott), but it definitely impacted opinions of Nickelback at the time. The b-side of the single was a Theory of a Deadman song. It was everywhere for weeks after Tobey Maguire Spider-Man came out. I don't remember anyone having specific opinions about Nickelback around the time I went home from college that summer, but everyone was 100% sick of that song when I went got back to campus for fall. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmSRMWw8Y_0
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Oct 15, 2022 12:40
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RE: solid body guitar wood, Warmoth has a page of information about body wood options they have. Woods are all given a value along a continuum of "warmer" to "brighter". The maple variants are all on the "brighter" end of that continuum. https://warmoth.com/guitar-body-woods Those descriptions are probably only relevant when the whole dang body is made out of that wood (not very common for maple, especially). The value of a quarter-to-half inch maple top on an otherwise-mahogany body is a lot more questionable. People say that maple top guitars with humbuckers are brighter than just solid mahogany, but that could just be people hearing their credit card balance. Brightness/warmness depends a lot on how the guitar is actually played. If the maple on the top of a guitar is just a thin veneer then it is just for looks.
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Oct 24, 2022 13:12
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Helianthus Annuus posted:This is a question about polishing guitar frets: As others have said, just playing won't get you there. The 2 inch by 2 inch Micro-Mesh pads seem to be popular choices for fret polishing. You can buy them a lot of places (Amazon, Etsy, small tool specialists, probably others). StewMac sells them too, but I try not to buy stuff from StewMac if I can help it. It seems like it costs $12 to ship the smallest possible package from them. People swear by 0000 steel wool but it is messy, for sure. I learned about 3M/Scotch-Brite white pads (7445) for frets from a Gibson video on guitar cleaning/polishing. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066283/ Supposedly they have the same level of abrasive as 0000 steel wool but doesn't create a mess of tiny ferrous particles all over, which can be an issue on something with both magnets and a buffed up finished. I didn't use steel wool for polishing a ton but the effect of the Scotch-Brite pads seems very similar to what I remember. Normally sold in boxes of 20 for upwards of $40, unless you're buying loosies from somewhere, so you gotta be sure you're gonna need them quite a bit. Whatever you do, tape off the fingerboard between the frets with a low adhesive tape. Probably the guitar around the end of the fingerboard and the pickups as well.
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Oct 26, 2022 23:43
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In the vein of a overdrive/distortion with pronounced effect on mid frequencies: Tube screamer derivatives (like the Plumes) are probably option #1 here. Although Mike Fuller apparently sucks big time, the Fulltone Full-Drive 2 is a well regarded pedal in that vein that was previously very cheap (although huge). Instead of paying suddenly-inflated prices for a huge metal box made by a guy who sucks, a Joyo Maximum is (trying to be) a clone of the Full-Drive 2, including being bright blue. New one should be about $50. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vH3VD5kMX6c The Xotic BB Preamp is kinda Tube Screamer-adjacent with a bit different EQ controls, which would be better to tame high end fizz and/or low woofiness specifically. Either the EHX Crayon or the Joyo Zip Amp are clones of that. And of course there are Klones, which also have a upper-mid push. Not many people play with the gain up high on Klones, where it would really start to "roar" like a Rat does, but these pedals do "hard clipping" in the same way that the Rat or Boss DS-1 do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PL9fxMJmS4
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Dec 1, 2022 23:40
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I already need to get about 6 guitars out of my house, but the 40th anniversary Squier guitars certainly look cool with the gold pickguards. Same price as the Classic Vibe series (at least for now). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3Kn31XFBNo https://www.fender.com/en-US/electric-guitars/?prefn1=series&prefv1=40th%20Anniversary&start=0&sz=12
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Dec 3, 2022 01:08
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McCoy Pauley posted:I have a "Starcaster by Fender" guitar sitting around the house that we picked up cheap at some local place for one of my kids to mess around on before moving on to using my main guitars. Note that is not a "Fender Starcaster," the semi-hollow body, but very specifically a "Starcaster by Fender." I think it's really questionable to whether a $52 wired pickguard is going to be noticeably better than whatever came in the "Starcaster by Fender". Although it touts Alnico magnets, I think it would be tough to judge how much better those pickups are going to be than whatever came in the Starcaster. They could still be noisy. A piece of anecdotal evidence, but I did buy a pre-wired GFS to put in a Mexican strat 12 years ago. The receipt email shows that cost $135 back in 2010. Those pickups did sound much better than what came in that guitar originally, but accounting for the huge price discrepancy and 12 years of (mostly) inflation makes me cautious on what you've linked. Someone might be able to recommend an eBay seller/brand they've had good luck with. All I know about these is that they aren't the GFS pickups that have a good reputation. You might also check other reddit/external forums threads about doing pickguard swaps on that guitar. Just to make sure you don't walk into a problem with some kind of odd mismatch in dimensions. I definitely wouldn't place any bets that the screw holes will line up, although that is fixable.
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Dec 12, 2022 22:25
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I don't think I would buy that guitar at that price even if it was really an American-made Fender. Legit Fenders (and most other major brands) have serial numbers on the back of the headstock that can be used to identify where it was made (USA, Mexico, Indonesia, China, etc.) and in what year. Getting that info would help guide a search on Reverb for similar guitars to help determine what's been changed from the factory. I think it's also a good general rule never to buy a used guitar that you can't look down the neck from the headstock. I've seen an Epiphone that seemed fine except the whole fretboard had a tilt to one side, somehow. EDIT: i think I picked up the importance of looking down the neck from a Dan Erlewine book or video. Major Operation fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Dec 30, 2022 |
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Dec 30, 2022 18:45
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If you don't have them already, the boring-but-useful answer would be a neck cradle and mat for working on guitars. Could get them from either Music Nomad or Jim Dunlop for under $50 together on Amazon. IMO, they are a significant quality of life upgrade over using rolled up towels or whatever when you need to change strings. For something fun that isn't a distortion pedal, you could look into one of the digital modulation multi-effects in a mini pedal. If you aren't broadly familiar with modulation effects those could be a good way to try a bunch of sounds. I have one from Flamma that seemed fine when I was playing through it. I would have said get a Mooer e-lady flanger, but those are $70 now because they got popular.
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Dec 31, 2022 01:40
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Klon is pretty popular because it does a few things different than the pedal designs from the 70s and 80s. You don't necessarily need those things for your playing style, but you might like to try one to see. IMO: It works well as a boost because it adds some emphasis to the upper-mid frequency range for guitar, and some people swear by the frequency shaping in the Klon as a clean boost specifically. The TS/SD-1 also have an upper-mid emphasis in frequency shaping but are slightly different in where the frequency peak is. It is easier to tame or avoid the "fizziness" with a Klon that otherwise shows up easily in the TS/SD-1 as the signal gets dirtier/more clipped by gain. This is more noticeable playing a guitar alone and comparing the pedals side by side, so it will sound "better" in that narrow comparison. Its clipping can get aggressive quickly like a distortion, but the gain stage design is also fairly unique. It has parallel paths in the circuit topology allows some clean signal from the guitar to pass through and get mixed with the clipped signal after the gain stage. The combination makes it react more obviously to differences in loudness of the source signal from the guitar (aka dynamics) while keeping some note clarity. This is why Klons are associated with buzzwords like "touch sensitive" and "transparent". The specific complain I've heard people have with a Klon is that it can lead to a tone with a lot of upper-mid "honk" in it as the gain increases. This seems likely to happen as you dial back on treble to compensate for the higher gain. The only time that a Klon really starts to overlap with the characteristics of a Rat is you turn a Klon's gain way up. I don't think the Klon can replace what is good about a Rat.
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Dec 31, 2022 05:43
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This page from Tonepedia, which appears to be less than 6 months old, has a lot of information and sound samples for the Klon and clones in one place: https://www.tonepedia.com/klon-or-klones-comparison/ And here's a pretty good demo video of some clones (including the Golden Horse) using a looper, which I'm pretty sure I've posted before. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PL9fxMJmS4
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Dec 31, 2022 13:48
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Tube amp prices got tremendously high after Russia invaded Ukraine and then inflation went on a run. I bought a Rivera Venus Deux Recording head for $1399, which was list price, almost exactly one year ago. It is now listed at $1899.
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Jan 7, 2023 01:27
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ethanol posted:question: when people say pickups are not reverse wound, can you not just switch the leads to reverse polarity? In a single coil pickup reversing the leads reverses the "phase", but not the polarity of the magnets. Also, depending on the pickup design, reversing the leads might mean sending some noise to the amp that would otherwise go to ground. Modern middle pickups for strat are both reverse wound and reverse polarity (RW/RP). Flipping one but not the other gives you "out of phase". It's less likely you would need to mess with phase/polarity on a humbucker. Fralin Pickups has several blog posts on the topic (which I'm choosing to believe here). https://www.fralinpickups.com/2017/01/23/whats-deal-polarity/
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Jan 9, 2023 23:29
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I think if the middle pickup is RW/RP on a strat set, the white and black wires will be reversed at the point where they attach to the pickup. On the 57/62 Strat pickups, it looks like there was a separate SKU for the set with a RW/RP middle. From the pictures it seems that the middle pickup's wires are reversed (as expected), and what would be the white wire is yellow instead. RW/RP set: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/0992117055--fender-original-5762-stratocaster-pickup-set-with-rwrp-middle-position Standard set: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/5762Set--fender-original-5762-stratocaster-pickup-set Lollar Pickups also has an article on pickup phase/winding/polarity that might be clearer than the one from Fralin Pickups. https://www.lollarguitars.com/understanding-pickup-phase
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Jan 10, 2023 03:56
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Oof. Yeah, I wouldn't feel good about paying $1200 for a Vintera JM to get pickups that look correct. Seems like there's a luxury tax for the offset/Jazzmaster mystique. It's expensive to look like a slacker now. A G&L Tribute Doheny might be superior guitar at a lower price, but the bridge doesn't look right and the pickups are their "magnetic field design" which (I believe) use ceramic bar magnets.
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Jan 11, 2023 04:02
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