|
Tow ratings are more for the truck being able to stop and also not fall apart than about power. A 2005-2015 Tacoma with a V6 is rated up to 6,500 pounds; you can do a brake upgrade to Tundra brakes very easily (rotors and calipers bolt right on), and even that V6 has more power than the V8 in your current K1500. I absolutely would consider one for towing 5,000 pounds. Some quick checking puts them in your price range with less than 100,000 miles. It’s also good to remember that vehicle maintenance costs don’t go up linearly with weight. It’s exponential. A 3/4 ton truck is far, far more expensive to maintain than a midsize. 15 quart oil changes are nothing to sneeze at.
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 00:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 02:11 |
|
|
Another thing to keep in mind is that people don’t typically sell trucks in that price range because they’re free of issues and maintenance debt. See: the spyder’s power fun stroke time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 00:31
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:Another thing to keep in mind is that people don’t typically sell trucks in that price range because they’re free of issues and maintenance debt. See: the spyder’s power fun stroke time. This. You do not want a sub 10-15 thousand dollar four wheel drive diesel. Not for towing 5000lb. fifteen thousand... sure.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 00:41
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:This. You do not want a sub 10-15 thousand dollar four wheel drive diesel. A sub 15k dmax is absolutely full of factory parts that used to be "dirty dawgz extereme lift pump" and "big nutz air gobbler" and other random bolt on bullshit that, along with amateur tuning bought online as a file to throw into EFI Live made by an idiot who bought it from someone else and just played with a few values has absolutely broken the truck. Then they swapped the stock parts they still had back on, maybe re-flashed their stock file (lol no they didn't, they didn't know how to save that so they got one that was close enough off the forums) and it's ready to sell to you. It's not even clear why you need something to tow. Or why your elevation matters. Are you on a deadline hot shotting 5000 lb loads? Or are you shuffling around broken vehicles that you personally own?
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 01:06
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Another thing I noticed with this new trailer and the BRZ is that my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 had some massive shaking going on when I'd get on the brakes hard, which is different than when I had the Featherlite and Miata on it. Sooo I went ahead and ordered a bunch of Moog stuff - front upper and lower control arms, driver side front cv axle (noticed it was blown), and a new set of pads and rotors. I'll also try moving the BRZ back on the trailer a bit to get some weight off the tongue. I ended up also grabbing Moog tie rods and sway bar bushings. Just need to align it. The truck has like 55k miles on it and every single ball joint could be made to pop by hand. Between the Bilstein 5100s I put on it a month or two ago and the above it feels pretty nice now. Definitely would not buy one of these by choice, but I am happy with it for now. 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Sep 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 02:23
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:Tow ratings are more for the truck being able to stop and also not fall apart than about power. A 2005-2015 Tacoma with a V6 is rated up to 6,500 pounds; you can do a brake upgrade to Tundra brakes very easily (rotors and calipers bolt right on), and even that V6 has more power than the V8 in your current K1500. I absolutely would consider one for towing 5,000 pounds. Some quick checking puts them in your price range with less than 100,000 miles. I didn't know that about maintenance costs on a 3/4, is it just that everything has to be more heavy duty therefore more manufacturing costs? That makes me more inclined to find a 1/2 without AFM, whether Toyota, GM, or Ford. Tow ratings change significantly depending on the engine so I question your assertion that it's about it being more about the brakes and frame. For example a '10 GMC Sierra 4.8 is rated for 5800lb, the 5.3 is rated for 7000/9800 depending on diff ratio. Which makes me consider the 5.3s assuming non-AFM ones are rated similarly. The K1500 was rated for 6,000 and 100% was not sufficient for that trailer, I'm pretty sure the beginning of the end was taking that thing over a mountain pass. I maintained temperature and oil pressure but was revving it to hell in 2nd to go 30mph because it didn't have the power to do anything in third. Not sure how much of that was loss of power with age vs elevation though. You might be right about the 6,500 on the Tacoma being enough but it's a large amount of money to bet on "might." Looks like 4.7 Tundras are rated for 7100 which might do it? There's way more options for roughly '04-'06 Tundras in my price range than '07+, and while it might be wrong I generally trust Toyota more than GM and way more than Ford, my family and I have had only good experiences with Toyotas. Motronic posted:A sub 15k dmax is absolutely full of factory parts that used to be "dirty dawgz extereme lift pump" and "big nutz air gobbler" and other random bolt on bullshit that, along with amateur tuning bought online as a file to throw into EFI Live made by an idiot who bought it from someone else and just played with a few values has absolutely broken the truck. Then they swapped the stock parts they still had back on, maybe re-flashed their stock file (lol no they didn't, they didn't know how to save that so they got one that was close enough off the forums) and it's ready to sell to you. I was hoping to find a boomer-owned beat up work truck but you're probably right, and given that my last work truck died after 6 months maybe that's not a good idea anyway.  Shuffling around broken vehicles that I personally own and inevitably shuffling around my friends' cars because we all have the "weird old car" sickness. Then also being able to tow my camper in the unlikely event that I become homeless. I'm much better off financially than I was a year ago (over twice the income, E-fund, less debt) but I've been homeless before and while it might not be logical, knowing that in a worst case scenario I can hook up "home" to the truck and go boondocking with some level of shelter rather than being out on the street is a major peace of mind thing. I know this isn't E/N but there's definitely some trauma response there. As far as elevation goes, I'm not trying down to you with this because I'm sure you know, I'm just explaining my thought process and personal experience. You lose roughly 3% of your horsepower for each 1,000 feet of elevation above sea level on a naturally aspirated engine, so I'm generally between 25 and 35% down on power depending on where I am. Usually more around 25-30%. As an example, my Impreza can accelerate uphill in 5th on a slight hill up to about 7-8000 feet. Once I hit 10,000 I can barely accelerate in 4th doing 70, and roads around here frequently go up to 12,000 or more. That's just to give an example. So I have to take tow ratings with a grain of salt because they assume I have significantly more power than I do have, and there's also the unknown of how many horses have left the barn since it was new. I don't expect to/want to be towing at 70+ but I don't want to be killing the engine with strain going 40. My new candidates: '04+ Tundra with the 4.7/5.7, <200k miles '02-'06 GM 1500 with 5.3/6.0 <150k miles ('07 is the start of AFM on 5.3 and 6.0, right?) '11+ F-150 with 5.0/3.5 <150k miles 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Sep 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 03:59
|
|
|
On the F150 front, try and look for a '15+ and bump the mileage up. The body will still be mint since they can't rust and the driveline (apart from the engine) is incredibly durable (until '17 when the transmission switched from the 6R80 to the 10-whatever). If it's out of warranty, you do not want the 3.5EB unless there's receipts of the timing system and cam phaser maintenance very recently.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 04:05
|
|
|
Good to know about the Ecoboost, thanks. It seems cool but I'm not surprised it has issues, turbos just make things more complicated and failure-prone. You say the engine isn't incredibly durable, what kind of mileage do people tend to see from the 5.0? I kind of stopped paying as much attention to new cars in the early '10s so I'm trying to catch up. Does anyone know a good cost of ownership site for older vehicles? Seems like a lot just have vehicles from '12-'16 and up. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Sep 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 04:19
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Tow ratings change significantly depending on the engine so I question your assertion that it's about it being more about the brakes and frame. None of the trucks you’re considering are new enough to use the SAE tests, and even that test is only the *maximum*. These trucks were all rated based on what the lawyers felt marketing could get away with. Sales also wanted to upsell everyone on a bigger engine so they’ll happily undersell the smaller option. They could rate it at 1,000 pounds under the new test if they wanted to sell you a bigger engine (hint: they do). A chassis rated to 6,500 is mostly the same between engines. You can order trucks with lower legal weight ratings, and no changes other than paperwork, if you need it under a certain limit for some reason. The reason I said brake upgrades is really because if you’re near the rating and underpowered you can always drive slower, but you won’t emergency stop as well. I’m happy to drop into the right lane and put-put my way up a pass. You should schedule more travel time when towing, anyway. Drive to keep your engine alive, gently caress the tailgaters.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 06:33
|
|
|
Fair enough, CSB had said that 1/2 ton trucks tended to be rated optimistically so I was assuming that they were higher than you would really want to tow even on the lower spec engines. I might have been able to do 10mph in first gear without wringing out the engine but I'm not sure. I planned on taking significantly longer, it was just that stretch of road (Wolf Creek Pass in Colorado if you have been there) that was really unmanageable. I'm definitely on board with putting bigger brakes on the truck if it's practical, it wasn't really an option on the K1500. I tend to engine brake a lot going downhill but brake brakes are nice too and brakes, shocks, and tires seem to be the primary things that always need doing on used cars.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 06:42
|
|
|
The trucks may be rated optimistically but if you’re under the number you’ll be fine. The real problem is that people act like trucks are rated by volume and not weight - they think all fullsize trucks are the same size and can thus pull the same weight trailer. The ‘Tundra brakes on a Tacoma’ mod first became popular because Toyota had to upgrade the Tundra brakes due to people hauling way too much crap. The brakes were warping and they started installing larger calipers as warranty replacements, which lead to some shop folks noticing that those now-surplus calipers also fit Tacomas. The Tundra brakes would warp on the vehicle they were meant for but are overkill for the next truck down.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 07:18
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Fair enough, CSB had said that 1/2 ton trucks tended to be rated optimistically so I was assuming that they were higher than you would really want to tow even on the lower spec engines. 1/2 ton F150s rated at 14,0000 lbs are rated optimistically. This is a fairly "new" thing as compared to the years of vehicles you seem to be looking at. It still hardly matters when you're talking about towing 5k. This all sounds like a way to get something kinda like what you want right now in the most money pit way possible rather than savings and buying the thing you actually want when you can afford it and it won't be a money pit. Go this way and the next thing you'll be asking about is medium duty rollback ratings to tow your tow vehicle. E: You have a classic case of "there's money in my hands! I need to spend it NOW NOW NOW!" and that's how you stay poor regardless of your income. Motronic fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Sep 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 14:11
|
|
|
What I want definitely isn't to save up and spend $20k-40k on a fancy truck, what I want is a truck that will do the job reliably at as close to a reasonable price as is possible in this market. If I don't find a good option soon I'll keep waiting and hope my Impreza doesn't have yet another part fail. Maybe trucks are just inherently more expensive than smaller vehicles but the most I've ever spent on a vehicle was $6,500 for a 9-year-old Camry hybrid, so even spending $15k is a stretch in terms of what I feel right spending on something like a car. At this point I'm pretty sure I'm just going to keep an eye out for a plain old boring 4.7/5.7 Tundra with <200k miles in good condition because as much as I might not want to admit it, "fun" in a vehicle costs extra and I don't need this to be fun, I just need it to work. Which means getting the truck equivalent of a Toyota Camry, which means a Tundra or maybe a Tacoma V6. E: I do appreciate your concern and good intentions though. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Sep 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 16:28
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Maybe trucks are just inherently more expensive than smaller vehicles Maybe? Yes. They are. Full stop. 22 Eargesplitten posted:spending $15k is a stretch in terms of what I feel right spending on something like a car. Then you can't afford a reliable truck in this current market.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 16:40
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:The trucks may be rated optimistically but if you’re under the number you’ll be fine. The real problem is that people act like trucks are rated by volume and not weight - they think all fullsize trucks are the same size and can thus pull the same weight trailer. I love how this has been an issue with Toyota forever. My FZJ80 would warp rotors like clockwork.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 17:55
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Maybe? Yes. They are. Full stop. Well, that sucks. I guess I tend to think of trucks as stripped down utilitarian vehicles with none of the expensive tech that nicer passenger cars have but given what I see on the market I suppose that's inaccurate these days. I could probably go up to 20k without waiting too much longer if I really have to, I put about 5k away/towards debt per month, I just have other stuff I would much rather save my money for, like saving to put a down payment on some land in a year or two once the last of my student loans go away with debt forgiveness. Given that there are some late '00s Tacomas/Tundras on the market with less than 200k miles for 12-15k, is there a reason you wouldn't consider them reliable? This isn't disagreeing with you, this is me having never had any interest in trucks until I couldn't just rent/borrow one when I needed one. I've always liked small cars from the '90s but as much as it's pulling teeth to admit it those are getting old enough that they are starting to fail regardless of how well they are taken care of. In my mind the 2uz/3uz is the equally reliable successor of the 1uz that would regularly go 300-400k in the LS400, is that wrong? Sorry for the massive derail, I wasn't expecting the conversation to be this long when I asked the question.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 18:10
|
|
|
I would say that those Toyota pickups you’re talking about could potentially be reliable for a long time - after you baseline it. Budget at least another couple thousand dollars for that, all the little stuff adds up fast.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 18:16
|
|
|
I guess I'll just throw this in here as a response to the e/n bit, as a long-time poster in various BFC threads: if you have a visceral concern about possibly being homeless in the future, not spending $15k+ on a truck is more likely to keep you in your home than spending it, all else being equal. That cash in the bank pays for a lot of months of living expenses. If you need to haul around a car four times a year, rent something on those occasions, it'll be a hassle but you'll save thousands over time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 18:30
|
|
|
You're right about not spending 15k+ being better than spending 15k+, but I do feel like I need to get something because I only have one running vehicle and it has been out of commission twice in the past month and is at almost 230k miles. I've been borrowing a barely-running Suzuki Samurai the past two weeks from a friend but its top speed on flat ground is about 40mph so it's in-town only. I've had to postpone a vet visit for my lizard to get a lump looked at until the Impreza is working again and I feel terrible about it because that lump can't feel good and might get her sick. In favor of not buying a truck, though, I just realized that there's a Uhaul within a reasonable distance so if I need to tow / move something I can rent their truck and a trailer and the only downside is that I'll have to use a manual comealong rather than an electric winch. When I got the K1500 I was under the impression that the nearest rental was in Denver over 100 miles each way, which made renting a truck impractical. So my current thinking based on what Leperflesh just reminded me of is that I should get a Leaf or Corolla or something basic since a truck rental is actually feasible and I did get AAA after my truck's engine blew so I can get emergency tows. And I don't even like trucks, this plan was purely a utilitarian expense. To be clear I am in no danger of being homeless, I have a second job that I basically can't lose unless my boss quits that will pay the bills and I could even survive off of unemployment for a few months without touching my 1-month emergency fund. Just after my life experiences I don't know if I will ever feel safe again, I have been working with a therapist on it. Not having food or stable shelter really fucks with your head.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 18:49
|
|
|
First gen tundras and similar year Tacomas had rust issues in the frames. Some got replacement frames, some didn't. Those that didn't, you should look really long and hard at them. My work has/ had 3 of them. They all got tossed die to frame issues. Though they were all 15+ years old by that time. We still have one and it's not as had as the others, hut it has .... Issues with rust. I do live in salt town admittedly, but still look long and hard at the frames on any of them if you still are considering one. My other two cents is: if your budget is between 10-15 k, just buy the newest, lowest mileage Corolla or Civic that you can afford, maintain it to a reasonable standard, and don't worry about breakdowns for the next 10 or so years while still putting away that 5 racks a month
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 23:26
|
|
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:First gen tundras and similar year Tacomas had rust issues in the frames. Some got replacement frames, some didn't. Those that didn't, you should look really long and hard at them. My work has/ had 3 of them. They all got tossed die to frame issues. Though they were all 15+ years old by that time. Not that .22 Eargesplitten's thinking is totally wrong or anything, but I feel you present a better option for them. Look, I've bought cheap trucks as work vehicles and they've made me a bunch of money. Even at the lower end, expenses add up quick unless you can justify owning the thing. It has got to make you money somehow. Opening up opportunities, saving on rental costs, picking up side work, anything just to feed the fuel monster. Let me tell y'all how and why I've been able to justify my own purchases while also explaining how I know what I do when it comes to towing. I've covered independent distributors of bread's businesses when they get sick, hurt, or just want to take time off, for the past 12 years. Let's say half of my 30-odd customers over that timespan tow a trailer, and not all of them can spare their personal truck when not working. They get a dual-use vehicle that works 5 days a week, while still being able to pick the kids up at school. Maintenance, fuel, even the purchase of the truck can get written off on their company's taxes. Money in, money out. Being able to use the combination for personal needs is a welcome bonus. What does that matter to me? If I have a truck, that brings in all the customers who can't let me or don't want me using their truck. I get to charge extra for that, too. Just put me under the company insurance, hand over keys to the locks, pay for my fuel, and we're good to go. What does that mean, truck ownership wise? Despite spending more than I should have for a 15 year old vehicle in the crazy truck market of Florida, it paid for itself within 8 months. That's through gained opportunity, extra charges for using my poo poo, hauling poo poo on the side, and using it myself, minus my own fuel, a new rad with hoses, a water pump, shocks, suspension and brake upgrades. That's $7,000 in 8 months, while still making wage and saving some back. Not bad for a Ram 1500 with the 4.7l V8, right? The downside? Commuting at 15mpg suuuucks. Those upgraded parts cost more to replace as well. Blocking out time for doing my own basic repairs and maintenance costs me time (=money). Tools, both for the truck and dealing with trailer poo poo cost me money, too. Tire change ramp for the trailers, Robertson bits for same (WTF, they're all American made), jump box, an extra jack, chains, spare trailer tires, it all adds up. So let's say I've broke even on the truck, while making more money overall and writing off expenses. You will not even be able to do that if it doesn't make money. This calculus changes somewhat if you need a truck for pleasure activities. Travel trailers, race trailers, horse hauling, etc. You still have to factor in the costs associated with your tow pig. God bless you if you just want a truck to tool around in. Towing introduces a lot of other problems. At a certain point, the math has to add up. For $19.95 a day, you can rent this bitch, after all.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 03:35
|
|
|
Uhaul rents trucks *and* trailers - the whole thing is available if you need to tow something. I had to pay $1,100 for my last one-way trailer rental (1,000 miles & crossed the US/Canada border) but they put 4 brand new tires on right before I picked it up and making sure all the lights worked was not my problem. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 04:05
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:Uhaul rents trucks *and* trailers - the whole thing is available if you need to tow something. I had to pay $1,100 for my last one-way trailer rental (1,000 miles & crossed the US/Canada border) but they put 4 brand new tires on right before I picked it up and making sure all the lights worked was not my problem. I actually need to look into that. Got a move from C. Florida to N. Alabama coming up and I'm not sure if it'd be cheaper to hotshot my pickup there or yank it behind a U-Haul. I'm not even sure if a long bed 1/2 ton will fit on any of their trailers. Ol' Bessie is long and extremely heavy, at 5,200lbs with a full tank of gas and tools in it. I'd do it the other way around, but trailers have gotten too expensive and the little U-Haul enclosed trailers are way small. e: Also, holy poo poo that slide-in looks heavy. madeintaipei fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Sep 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 04:28
|
|
|
That’s my dad’s truck & camper, the other side has a slide-out. It’s heavy AF and not helped by the fact that they’re one step above hoarders. He hauls around two generators just in case one doesn’t start.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 05:47
|
|
|
I'll go ahead and mention as well as recommend checking out Enterprise Trucks, they're different locations than the regular car rental places and only deal with trucks and vans of various sizes. They EXPECT the trucks to be used for towing so all the trucks, at least in my experience, have the tow package and are nicely equipped. I've used their stuff to tow all over the Southeastern part of the country with all the hills and mountains we have. It looks like their rates have gone up $10/day since I used them last but still way cheaper than buying, insuring, maintaining and daily driving a large truck. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 12:50
|
|
|
Seconding Uhauls and Enterprise' options. I personally prefer Enterprise equipment as its typically less shagged. Uhaul's trailers are neutron star heavy but will get the job done. On topic I used a Uhaul chev 1500 to haul a 1200lb diesel engine last fall. It was rated for about 2000lb payload. It was not happy with 1200lb. I blew one of the rear shocks on Denver roads with it. Not my truck Not my problem. Go rent one, tote your stuff around with it. who cares. It's not yours to fix. 1200lb on the bed is like 10,000lb worth of trailer. I don't remember if that one had an integrated brake controller or not. It did have a receiver hitch. Advent Horizon posted:That’s my dad’s truck & camper, the other side has a slide-out. It’s heavy AF and not helped by the fact that they’re one step above hoarders. He hauls around two generators just in case one doesn’t start. The only other Alpenlite out there heavier than mine with a 15k budget and late model + 4wd + ability to tow you're better off waiting it out. Trucks are no longer the simple things they were in 1970. They're full on luxury cars with a bed now. Sure you can get a stripper work truck model. In 2020 assembly lines have been prioritized towards the higher trims to offset a limited supply of parts and maximize their profits. Nevermind dealer markup and availability shenanigans going on. You're better off paring down your fleet, getting a slightly used off lease rolla' or something, renting a truck when you need it, and putting the difference into savings. Looking around the Denver craigslist is bleak at that price point and those requirements. You won't buy out of a project at 15 thousand. Perspective here, I paid 5 thousand for my 'drag it out of a field throw hot batteries in it and drive it off' quality bricknose in 2016. The equivalent cost of one of these now is around 10-15k if it runs and around 4-7 if it doesn't. I will also reiterate why it was parked for a decade was because the engine was terminally hosed. When a 7.3 dies the rest of the truck is so haggard it should be thrown away. I have a six-year-thread archived here dragging this fucker back from the dead. I have put early 6.7psd money into this truck unfucking it, zeroing out its maintenance debt, and putting it back to work. It is still far from perfect. It still doesn't have aircon. This is what I want to run and I have the ability to make it happen. Don't do this kind of poo poo if you're on a tight budget, lack the ability, fortitude to deal with old cars and their issues, and a grip of patience* because it is not financially wise nor is it sane. *and a patient spouse
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 16:22
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:This is what I want to run and I have the ability to make it happen. Don't do this kind of poo poo if you're on a tight budget, lack the ability, fortitude to deal with old cars and their issues, and a grip of patience* because it is not financially wise nor is it sane. I think this is what 22 and many others miss. They see these older/cheaper cars and trucks as a bargain, or getting something that is functionally the same just doesn't look as nice/have all the features of a new one. And it's not the case at all. You run this stuff because you want to and can. You are not saving money. You are probably spending more of it. And definitely more time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 16:39
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I think this is what 22 and many others miss. They see these older/cheaper cars and trucks as a bargain, or getting something that is functionally the same just doesn't look as nice/have all the features of a new one. I'll share what the truck has cost since November 2020. $549/mo average, 70 cents per mile in parts*. Re framing this from the actual data, that's about 11 and a half thousand dollars to go 16 thousand miles. 2020-2021 fuel was about 40 cents per mile. 2022 is right at 70. This is another almost 7 grand. we're talking a buck forty per mile without even talking about time or the tools to keep it going for the privilege to drive a 32 year old truck. Anything less and it will begin to fall into maintenance debt loving tomorrow me. This isn't even counting the other work from 2016-2020 that has worked without hassle in 2020-2022. An oil change right now is about $130-150. Drop it every 4-5k. A set of fuel filters is about $50. Air filter is $50 The filters last 10k-mi. Tires are around the $2500 mark. They age out at 5 years. Coolant is around $120. it lasts 5 years. It requires additives or run the risk of damaging the engine's block. If I counted my time at half the rate at what I charge others to waste it I could have had a 2020s Peterbilt. This is my hobby however so my money and time are here to light on fire, if this isn't your hobby don't do it. *The further distance I put from Oct 2021 and a 7.3 swap on a Denver side street, the cheaper this monthly tally will get however there is a baseline to this vehicle and i'm approaching it. I'll also say there's a list of future improvements of about 9 thousand right now.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 17:03
|
|
|
Edit: dammit CSB. This post is entirely redundant now! Don’t forget that a major reason people sell vehicles is because it hit a point where they decided replacement was more economical, for them, than keeping it. Those trucks some bro stripped their tuner parts off and listed as ‘unmolested’ are being sold because the person who owns it can’t afford to keep the thing running. If you can afford to buy two you can afford to own one. Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Sep 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 17:09
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I think this is what 22 and many others miss. They see these older/cheaper cars and trucks as a bargain, or getting something that is functionally the same just doesn't look as nice/have all the features of a new one. It used to be a bargain, like CSB said the price on even a not running truck has gotten stupid. With the reliability of newer diesels the value of anything running or rebuildable has shot way up, my dad's Duramax is worth almost 10k more than he paid for it. I feel the days of the $1500 truck you can put 100k on after doing the fuel pump and alternator are over. There's always the AI option of saying gently caress it I don't care about time or money. E: stay far away from bro trucks, "unmolested" or not. SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Sep 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 17:11
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:It used to be a bargain........I feel the days of the $1500 truck you can put 100k on after doing the fuel pump and alternator are over. "Bargains" like that haven't been around for well over a decade. This is not a new pandemic reality. It's just made it worse. CSB was always going to be lighting nearly as much money on fire as he has regardless of pre or post pandemic pricing on the initial purchase or maintenance/repairs. Its just the nature of running stuff like this. It's almost like there's a real cost per mile range for a given capability and you're gonna have to pay that cost one way or another. If it's not your hobby you should be paying it up front with lightly used equipment and it you'll pay towards the lower end of that range. Do it with brand new stuff or old stuff that is being maintained in a way as to make it reliable and you'll be trending towards the top end of that range.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 18:42
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:There's always the AI option of saying gently caress it I don't care about time or money. This is what I struggle with. I see something and go "that looks like fun!" when I've still got tons of projects, car and otherwise, languishing and should really just buy something that there is nothing for me to do anything with even if I want to.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 19:03
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:This is what I struggle with. I see something and go "that looks like fun!" when I've still got tons of projects, car and otherwise, languishing and should really just buy something that there is nothing for me to do anything with even if I want to. I am the same way, and can’t overstate how awesome it is having a new(er…. Bought new but had it 3.5 years or so) fairly simple daily driver that requires nothing above and beyond filter and fluid changes, tire rotations, and inspections. It means my other 6 cars and countless projects can also exist without the stress of needing to rely on them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 19:56
|
|
|
Having bought nearly new with a car and a mower I'm not sure it saves you all that much headache, recalls and lovely factory work quality plus a payment on top of it. A truck is one of those things you do want to be kinda hassle free though, how else are you going to tow your project car home when it decides to throw a tantrum.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 20:36
|
|
|
I had a 2005 Tacoma. I had a thread here about it. I had to replace the frame on mine. Mine was a 6 speed DCSB. I go on a 4,400km road trip through the Rockies twice a year. In the summertime the last few years, I've done it towing a 6x12 enclosed trailer with my supermoto and vacation stuff so that my 2 lab sized dogs and I can have all the cab space (not a crazy amount of space). The Tacoma did it, but wasn't super happy about it. Fuel mileage while towing was atrocious. I think the worst mileage I got was 200 something km from a tank. Forget about passing anything. I sold that hulk of poo poo this spring and got an 09 Sierra with the 5.3 and 6 speed transmission. The fuel mileage is about the same, but it's much happier towing the trailer and bikes (this last summer I had my sumo and F800GS). It's also my winter beater, because I don't want to expose my 2011 WRX to the salty, wintery hell that is Saskatchewan winters. If it weren't for those two things, I wouldn't own a truck because the fuel cost is ridiculous for what it is. It would be a much better idea to get a wagon/ hatchback and rent a truck when needed. Stuff is more expensive for a truck. Price out a set of LT tires vs tires for a car.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2022 00:58
|
|
|
Does anyone have a recommendation for a inexpensive/decent set of trailer lights? I’m redoing our 5x8 and I’m realizing it’s just time for a new light kit “while I’m in here”.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2022 01:14
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a inexpensive/decent set of trailer lights? I’m redoing our 5x8 and I’m realizing it’s just time for a new light kit “while I’m in here”. Whatever LED kit you can find for cheap. If you want then to last longer, seal the back of the LED panel inside the housing with silicone.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2022 02:02
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:This is what I struggle with. I see something and go "that looks like fun!" when I've still got tons of projects, car and otherwise, languishing and should really just buy something that there is nothing for me to do anything with even if I want to. Ambassadorofsodomy posted:My other two cents is: if your budget is between 10-15 k, just buy the newest, lowest mileage Corolla or Civic that you can afford, maintain it to a reasonable standard, and don't worry about breakdowns for the next 10 or so years while still putting away that 5 racks a month I went this route and I've never been more happy about owning a vehicle before. All I do is put gas in my 2015 Scion and change the oil once a year, I just drive it and it's amazing. Also I don't know if you've ever owned a truck before, but if you're used to daily driving a car, daily driving a truck is horrible in comparison in so many ways and is not fun. I would never own a truck again as a daily unless I absolutely needed one and had no other choice.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2022 16:09
|
|
|
Applebees Appetizer posted:I went this route and I've never been more happy about owning a vehicle before. All I do is put gas in my 2015 Scion and change the oil once a year, I just drive it and it's amazing. I realize that not everyone can do this for varying (and legitimate) reasons, but seriously, if more people did that there would probably be a few less broke rear end people out there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2022 17:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 02:11 |
|
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:I realize that not everyone can do this for varying (and legitimate) reasons, but seriously, if more people did that there would probably be a few less broke rear end people out there. Hey now, I resemble that remark. Now just look the other way while I continue to dump $$$$ into a 22 year old truck that I'll drive once a month.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2022 18:20
|
|