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Well I'll probably just have a trans shop install it cuz I need the fluid replaced anyway. Also I have searched and there is no indication anywhere that my car has a trans temp sensor in it, it is an econobox after all so not too surprised there. Maybe I'll have them install a trans temp gauge as well. In the meantime will checking the trans pan with a temp gun suffice?
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Jan 11, 2023 17:42
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temp gun will get you close enough for now.
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Jan 11, 2023 17:45
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Braking doesn't seem much different between the two boats but I plan on upgrading the brakes anyway. EBC rotors and Hawk pads are ordered, and higher temp synthetic fluid will replace the fluid from the factory. Braided lines are available and pretty cheap actually, but is that overkill? I'm assuming a bit better pedal feel is all? Braided lines are more durable and in some cases may improve pedal feel but are probably unnecessary. As far as fluid goes I really like DOT 5.1. 
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Jan 11, 2023 18:55
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I agree, probably overkill for street use (braided lines I mean) but yeah they're supposed to help with pedal feel, and supposedly less expansion when you really have to ram on that pedal. But probably nothing that would make a difference on anything but a track car.
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Jan 11, 2023 19:00
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Mr Fish posted:Braided lines are more durable and in some cases may improve pedal feel but are probably unnecessary. As far as fluid goes I really like DOT 5.1. Braided lines are difficult to inspect and hide damage. For quite some time there were absolutely no DOT approved braided lines and you would fail inspection in most states for having them. It's fine on a race car where conditions are known, limited, and things are heavily inspected regularly and replaced periodically. I don't think they have any place on a normal vehicle. Especially one that's getting doused in salt air constantly.
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Jan 11, 2023 19:01
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Mr Fish posted:Braided lines are more durable and in some cases may improve pedal feel but are probably unnecessary. As far as fluid goes I really like DOT 5.1. Already got some Motul RBF600. Should be way better than whats in there now. Motronic posted:It's fine on a race car where conditions are known, limited, and things are heavily inspected regularly and replaced periodically. I don't think they have any place on a normal vehicle. Yeah I kinda figured that, but the price for all four was cheap enough that I considered it if people that are towing recommended them. My car is still on all the original pads, rotors and fluids, so i think changing all those out to higher quality will make a big difference. Also worth mentioning, the car did not come stock with a rear sway bar, so I installed a Hotchkis rear bar and it made a big difference in the rear end stability when towing. I just recently got the matching front sway bar too that's 50% stiffer than stock and I need to install that as well.
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Jan 11, 2023 19:39
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Motronic posted:Braided lines are difficult to inspect and hide damage. For quite some time there were absolutely no DOT approved braided lines and you would fail inspection in most states for having them. Now that you mention it, I seem to recall back in the early '00s there were people who said that the steel braiding also allowed grit, dust etc to accumulate on the lines which led to premature failure. I don't know if its still a thing, but a "solution" at the time was a clear, flexible plastic sleeve over the braiding that was supposed to keep road crud out of there.
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Jan 12, 2023 00:43
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The ones used on motos are laminated. Not sure if the ones available for a Scion are. When the lamination fails its time to replace the line ime.
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Jan 12, 2023 00:46
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cursedshitbox posted:The ones used on motos are laminated. Not sure if the ones available for a Scion are. Lower-temp thermostat is maybe useful if you're only overloading the cooling system for brief intervals: sitting at a lower temp will give you more time before unsafe levels of heat, but won't help over a sustained period. If you're unable to keep coolant temp normal, a higher water content in your coolant (and maybe Water Wetter) or a bigger / more efficient radiator are the normal ways to solve that.
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Jan 12, 2023 01:01
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cursedshitbox posted:The ones used on motos are laminated. Not sure if the ones available for a Scion are. All the ones I’ve used have been coated and are basically replacing the cloth fibers in standard rubber ones with steel. Something like this, you see them in clear too. Though I don’t think this is a brake line. But yeah when the outside stuff cracks bin that poo poo. 
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Jan 12, 2023 01:38
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wesleywillis posted:Now that you mention it, I seem to recall back in the early '00s there were people who said that the steel braiding also allowed grit, dust etc to accumulate on the lines which led to premature failure. all of the DOT legal braided lines that i have seen have an outer plastic sleeve, and i was under the impression that that was the main or only difference.
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Jan 12, 2023 06:01
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Just be aware that a LOT of Toyota brake systems play badly with anything other than DOT 3 fluids. Plenty of stories out there of people putting Dot 4 and Dot 5.1 fluid in their 100 series landcruisers thinking it will improve braking performance and they end up swelling every seal and oring in their combined master/ABS assembly and get a $4K replacement bill from Toyota for it cos the entire abs unit shits itself and you end up with no brakes
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Jan 12, 2023 08:11
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Raluek posted:all of the DOT legal braided lines that i have seen have an outer plastic sleeve, and i was under the impression that that was the main or only difference. They may now but I'm pretty sure they didn't back in the early oughts. Or maybe they (braided lines) weren't DOT legal back thenm with or without the sleeve.
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Jan 12, 2023 13:43
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heffray posted:Lower-temp thermostat is maybe useful if you're only overloading the cooling system for brief intervals: sitting at a lower temp will give you more time before unsafe levels of heat, but won't help over a sustained period. If you're unable to keep coolant temp normal, a higher water content in your coolant (and maybe Water Wetter) or a bigger / more efficient radiator are the normal ways to solve that. Gotcha, that makes a lot more sense if I'm running high temps. There are aluminum radiators available for my car so I'll look into those and see how much more capacity they have. Ferremit posted:Just be aware that a LOT of Toyota brake systems play badly with anything other than DOT 3 fluids. Plenty of stories out there of people putting Dot 4 and Dot 5.1 fluid in their 100 series landcruisers thinking it will improve braking performance and they end up swelling every seal and oring in their combined master/ABS assembly and get a $4K replacement bill from Toyota for it cos the entire abs unit shits itself and you end up with no brakes Ah poo poo, the cap on the reservoir clearly states DOT 3 FLUID ONLY. The Motul I bought is DOT 4 [e] gently caress it, I'm running the DOT 4 because even without a load on my car in the summer time (it gets HOT here) my brakes were fading at times so I'll take the risk I guess. I've had lots of toyotas/Lexus running dot 4 and never had any issues Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jan 12, 2023 |
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Jan 12, 2023 17:26
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Motorcraft DOT 3 has a high dry temp
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Jan 13, 2023 03:33
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wesleywillis posted:They may now but I'm pretty sure they didn't back in the early oughts. i wouldn't be surprised if they weren't legal. most of the braided lines i see for sale aren't.
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Jan 15, 2023 00:39
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread or even the right forum for this. My boss and I want to put a safe in the work van because we have some small but valuable stuff in there that we really want secured by something more than a door lock. Finding a safe isn't hard, but I'm trying to figure out how to secure it to the body of the van that won't easily be defeated by a crowbar. It's a Transit 350 with no interior panels, just the exposed... whatever you call the layer inside from the body panels, and the body panels, although on the bright side there are no windows. Any ideas? When securing a safe in a house you want to drill into studs with some decent sized bolts while positioning it in a way that it's hard to get to the bolts, but I'm not sure what the van equivalent would be. Does a Transit have a frame? Would it be hazardous to put a couple bolts through the floor of the van and into the frame, then use silicone sealant or something to seal the edges? I feel iffy about that but I'm not sure what other options there are than the exposed wall brace things, which are very easy to get to. I've also suggested getting a larger safe than we need and tossing some 25lb barbell plates in the bottom as an extra "gently caress you" to anyone that manages to get the safe loose, although looking at the specs the larger one is already north of 200lb.
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Feb 5, 2023 12:10
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm not sure if this is the right thread or even the right forum for this. My boss and I want to put a safe in the work van because we have some small but valuable stuff in there that we really want secured by something more than a door lock. Finding a safe isn't hard, but I'm trying to figure out how to secure it to the body of the van that won't easily be defeated by a crowbar. It's a Transit 350 with no interior panels, just the exposed... whatever you call the layer inside from the body panels, and the body panels, although on the bright side there are no windows. Any ideas? When securing a safe in a house you want to drill into studs with some decent sized bolts while positioning it in a way that it's hard to get to the bolts, but I'm not sure what the van equivalent would be. Does a Transit have a frame? Would it be hazardous to put a couple bolts through the floor of the van and into the frame, then use silicone sealant or something to seal the edges? I feel iffy about that but I'm not sure what other options there are than the exposed wall brace things, which are very easy to get to. When folks put extra seats in vans, they usually just drill through the floor and then use either huge washers or steel plates. For a safe, I would imagine you could drill through the floor and then put two strips of steel on the other side and bolt through those and that would stop anyone who wasn’t determined. Anyone who’s determined is impossible to stop because they’ll have a plasma cutter or, more likely, just steal the van entirely. I think you’ll also want to do something to hide the safe though. At least so folks don’t look in and see a safe.
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Feb 5, 2023 14:59
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm not sure if this is the right thread or even the right forum for this. My boss and I want to put a safe in the work van because we have some small but valuable stuff in there that we really want secured by something more than a door lock. Finding a safe isn't hard, but I'm trying to figure out how to secure it to the body of the van that won't easily be defeated by a crowbar. It's a Transit 350 with no interior panels, just the exposed... whatever you call the layer inside from the body panels, and the body panels, although on the bright side there are no windows. Any ideas? When securing a safe in a house you want to drill into studs with some decent sized bolts while positioning it in a way that it's hard to get to the bolts, but I'm not sure what the van equivalent would be. Does a Transit have a frame? Would it be hazardous to put a couple bolts through the floor of the van and into the frame, then use silicone sealant or something to seal the edges? I feel iffy about that but I'm not sure what other options there are than the exposed wall brace things, which are very easy to get to. You could weld the bolts from the bottom and that way the nuts are inside the safe and more secure.
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Feb 5, 2023 16:08
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rowebot44 posted:You could weld the bolts from the bottom and that way the nuts are inside the safe and more secure. Weld studs to the plate before installation. Grind the underside smooth and paint it to hide any warping or other clues as to the exact placement of the studs. Studs penetrate into the safe, where nuts are attached. Then lose your poo poo anyway when someone gets underneath the van, cuts the floor pan around the perimeter of the plate, and takes the safe home to get into at their leisure.
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Feb 5, 2023 17:04
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JoshGuitar posted:Weld studs to the plate before installation. Grind the underside smooth and paint it to hide any warping or other clues as to the exact placement of the studs. Studs penetrate into the safe, where nuts are attached. Then lose your poo poo anyway when someone gets underneath the van, cuts the floor pan around the perimeter of the plate, and takes the safe home to get into at their leisure. Why would they bother? Just steal the van.
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Feb 5, 2023 23:57
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builds character posted:When folks put extra seats in vans, they usually just drill through the floor and then use either huge washers or steel plates. For a safe, I would imagine you could drill through the floor and then put two strips of steel on the other side and bolt through those and that would stop anyone who wasn’t determined. Anyone who’s determined is impossible to stop because they’ll have a plasma cutter or, more likely, just steal the van entirely. I think you’ll also want to do something to hide the safe though. At least so folks don’t look in and see a safe. Yeah, thankfully due to the lack of any windows in the back and the partition between the cargo compartment and the cab there's no way anyone would see a safe from outside. My concern is definitely preventing smash and grab, the amount of people that can successfully steal a car in a small town without being caught (I have to assume this thing has some kind of anti-theft and tracking measures given it already has a GPS receiver, right?) is much smaller than the amount of people that can jam a screwdriver into a door lock and look at work vans as a power tool loot box. To be clear, I'm not trying to stick power tools into the safe, it just looks like a tradesman's van.
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Feb 6, 2023 02:16
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What about a job box instead then?
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Feb 7, 2023 01:51
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22 Eargesplitten posted:To be clear, I'm not trying to stick power tools into the safe, it just looks like a tradesman's van. Put a fake sign on the side for a non-power-tool-having trade, like carpet cleaning or pet grooming. Ferremit posted:Just be aware that a LOT of Toyota brake systems play badly with anything other than DOT 3 fluids. Plenty of stories out there of people putting Dot 4 and Dot 5.1 fluid in their 100 series landcruisers thinking it will improve braking performance and they end up swelling every seal and oring in their combined master/ABS assembly and get a $4K replacement bill from Toyota for it cos the entire abs unit shits itself and you end up with no brakes Ugh, so you're saying I shouldn't have put DOT 4 brake fluid in my 2000 Toyota Sienna? Because there are a LOT of sites that say DOT 3 and DOT 4 are 100% compatible.
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Feb 7, 2023 02:59
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ryanrs posted:Ugh, so you're saying I shouldn't have put DOT 4 brake fluid in my 2000 Toyota Sienna? Because there are a LOT of sites that say DOT 3 and DOT 4 are 100% compatible. I honestly wouldn't worry too much about it, I searched all over the internet and couldn't find anything saying that DOT4 is no good for Toyota brake systems, in fact I kept getting the opposite that it's totally fine.
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Feb 7, 2023 03:13
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Yeah, it's already been in the system for 16 months, with no obvious issues.
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Feb 7, 2023 03:28
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3, 4, 5.1 are compatible. Putting 5 into a system that requires 3, 4, 5.1 will absolutely ruin seals so that sounds like bullshit boomer advice(tm). Your main diff is dry boiling point and the 4, 5.1 tends to degrade a little quicker.
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Feb 7, 2023 03:29
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In the not too distant future I'm going to be the It has a trailer. I'm looking to put together a repair kit. It's a new shorelander trailer, so I *probably* won't have to worry too much for a little while, but what sort of poo poo should I have in this thing? The lights are all led so spare bulbs won't really be a thing, short of carrying a whole light assembly. I figure on a test light, some spare wire + connectors, and heat shrink. Wire strippers/ crimpers, spare fuses. Small wire brush for cleaning up rusty ground connections. A small socket and screwdriver set a few spare lug nuts, and studs. I have a string patch kit in my truck for repairing tires, but these are supposed to be bias ply, so I don't know if they'll work for that, but I have a spare tire. Hopefully I won't need more than one on any given trip. Already have a compressor so that's covered. Only other things I can think of, besides some miscellaneous hardware (cotter pins, nuts, bolts) is a spare set of bearings and races for one wheel and a hub? Am I missing anything that's blatantly obvious?
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Feb 28, 2023 17:31
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wesleywillis posted:In the not too distant future I'm going to be the If you pack bearings and races, remember to bring grease, as those would be useless without it. Other thing that I have needed is a bigass crescent wrench - because if something breaks, you will probably bend stuff, and you will need something big to bend it back to get home. Zipties or bailing wire to patch stuff up if required, electrical tape to attach things back on. Cheap rope to replace the fancy stuff that fell off when you forgot to put it back in the boat, but that might part of the boat kit. Once you get the boat, look at things you can lose, as those are the things you might need (boat plug, shackle for trailer chain, Cotter pin for hitch pin) With the list you have already have, you are probably way ahead of everyone else, so you are probably good.
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Feb 28, 2023 18:45
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wesleywillis posted:what sort of poo poo should I have in this thing? Boat trailers lose bearings. Have spares and the tools to replace one. But even before that, get bearing buddies (bearing cap replacements with a zirk fitting on them) and have a grease gun that you keep with the trailer. Grease them at the beginning of every season. And grease them every time you're about to set off after having them in water. So after you load to go home for day trips and before dragging the empty trailer home for extended dropoff stuff. Your tow vehicle will begin to do the same thing with it's rear u joint, so keep up with greasing that too and make drat sure the rear vent is unclogged and high enough to stay above the water line otherwise you'll be sucking stank water into your rear as it hits the water and rapidly cools off. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Feb 28, 2023 |
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Feb 28, 2023 20:29
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wesleywillis posted:In the not too distant future I'm going to be the This is more for the boat than the trailer, but if it has more than one battery, jumper cables. That way if your starting battery dies but your deep cycle is still ok, you can get back to the dock. Or in my case, when the starting battery is fine, but the neutral safety switch is acting up, you can jump power directly to the starter solenoid. If you can source some bigass alligator clips and wire, some pretty short cables will do the job and be less annoying to deal with than some 20' long cables you'd use for a car. Although the long cables may one day come in handy if your battery dies but a nearby boater is willing to help.
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Feb 28, 2023 23:50
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Thanks for the suggestions fellow goons.blindjoe posted:If you pack bearings and races, remember to bring grease, as those would be useless without it. Good point on the zip ties, electrical tape and random wire for securing poo poo. As far as the bearings, I was planning on pre-packing them. I don't think I've packed a bearing in about 25 years or so, but I figured, pre-packed, in bags (labelled inside/outside if applicable) and in a plastic container. I usually keep a big(ish) pair of channel locks and adjustable wrench in my truck so I probably have that covered, bending bent poo poo. Motronic posted:Boat trailers lose bearings. Have spares and the tools to replace one. I thought bearing buddies just encouraged people to over grease their wheel bearings and blow out the rear seals? I guess maybe if I only give it a pump or two it might not be that bad. That being said, is it worth it to get "marine grease"? Already did the diff vent extension. If I get deep enough that I submerge it, then I've got big problems  JoshGuitar posted:This is more for the boat than the trailer, but if it has more than one battery, jumper cables. That way if your starting battery dies but your deep cycle is still ok, you can get back to the dock. Eventually I'm planning on putting together a tool/repair kit for the boat and I expect there to be some overlap between boat and trailer kits. I'll have to decide then which stuff to keep with the boat all the time, and what I can leave in my truck. I don't expect to need wheel bearing repair poo poo in the boat for example, but maybe the tools like wrenches/screwdrivers etc can stay with the boat and same with the wiring stuff etc. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Mar 1, 2023 |
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Mar 1, 2023 05:34
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wesleywillis posted:I thought bearing buddies just encouraged people to over grease their wheel bearings and blow out the rear seals? I guess maybe if I only give it a pump or two it might not be that bad. I'd rather blow the seals out and know I have actual uncontaminated grease in there. The rear seals will be gone in no time either way on a boat trailer. I don't use bearing buddies on anything else because they seem entirely unnecessary. Anything with marine on it has a different color dye and gets marked up 100%. I've been using Mobile 1 in my grease gun for basically everything for a couple decades now.
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Mar 1, 2023 13:40
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Blowing out the seals isn't helpful tho if you're on any kind of a long-ish trip where the grease has time to work itself out and burn up the bearings, then you're on the side of the road changing out the bearings/hub....If you have any extra on you that is. Driving around locally not as big of a deal obviously if you catch it (kinda hard not to notice), but still messy and a pain in the rear end if you can avoid it just don't go hog wild pumping in grease constantly and you'll be fine. Marine grease is BS from what I've been told by the old codger at the local trailer shop
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Mar 1, 2023 14:00
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Applebees Appetizer posted:just don't go hog wild pumping in grease constantly and you'll be fine. Basically this. Use a hand pump gun and you'll feel the pressure build up when they're full. You can slowly pump more grease in past the seal without blowing it out.
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Mar 1, 2023 14:03
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Boat trailers are one of the few things I'd recommend using dielectric grease on all connections
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Mar 1, 2023 14:58
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So I am about to put my money where my mouth is on cummins ISB emissions equipment. For reference, I have a 2018 Ram 3500 with the 6.7 cummins. I quit daily driving it about 6 months ago because $150 a week in fuel just to haul myself and my kid around was too much. About a month ago I got a letter in the mail asking if I wanted $500 and a rental in exchange for cummins taking my truck back to columbus indiana for a bit and testing the emissions equipment functionality. I don’t really use the truck, its got about 91k on it, never had any issues with it and the truck is bone stock. So I filled it out and returned it. Well, they called, got some additional information, and said its actually the EPA that selects which vehicles get tested. Because of volkswagen, all manufacturers now are required to do random tests of in warranty diesel vehicles. Ok with me. Apparently cummins makes not only the engine, but the software and emissions control equipment as well so they do the testing. I again agreed, and said if its got an issue, they fix, and they said its under warranty, so no problems there. Yesterday I got another call, and they are picking the truck up next Tuesday via transporter, and leaving me with a ram 1500 for the time its gone. They told me to leave the diesel tank less than 1/4 because cummins will fill it with certified test grade diesel and leave it full on return. Again, ok with me because thats $100 worth of fuel. Apparently they also detail it for free too. So yeah, gonna see how this works out. The $500 and rental will give me time to replace the front diff and swap rod bearings on my N55 bmw.
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Mar 30, 2023 00:17
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rdb posted:So yeah, gonna see how this works out. The $500 and rental will give me time to replace the front diff and swap rod bearings on my N55 bmw.
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Mar 30, 2023 05:51
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And the cummins is back. Passed emissions testing no problems. Changed the oil and fuel filters last weekend so it can sit awhile. Whatever test grade diesel they used is clear, and gets slightly worse mileage than winter diesel. Guessing its pretty light.
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Apr 25, 2023 23:07
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