|
Applebees Appetizer posted:Don't forget to bed in the brakes properly once you have everything done. GreenBuckanneer posted:Yeah I know that. Once I get it assembled I'll just drive up and down the road to make sure everything doesn't fall apart on me. I didn't use the impact wrench because I was trying to go to spec with the torque wrench but then it didn't click, so I'm not sure entirely... I can tell you everything is tight until I couldn't tighten it any more by hand, though. im not sure if the majority of this post is responding to leica's post, or if you moved on after the first sentence, but i wanted to check since you moved to fastener torque chat pretty quickly. i hope this isnt over-explaining something you already know, but bedding in brakes means to accelerate up to a reasonable speed (40ish-60ish) and then brake down almost to a stop quickly, then accelerate again and repeat. this will get your brakes hot, and it will wear the pads into the rotors. it has to do with transferring friction material between the surfaces; it's unrelated to fastener torque or really anything assembly-related. any new brake parts benefit from being bedded in, though it will happen naturally from just driving it too, of course. apologies if this is all stuff you know and were planning on doing anyway, it just looked like maybe you two were talking past each other there.
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2022 07:22
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 23:19 |
|
|
GreenBuckanneer posted:also: You might be thinking of the strut assembly, I know for a fact you're not supposed to screw those (top bolts) in until the tires are on the ground, but I did that back in june that way. its mostly an issue anywhere you have bushings in shear. where the control arms bolt to the frame are the main ones. it's hard for the bushings to rotate once they're torqued down, the rubber (or poly or whatever) twists rather than the whole thing rotating. so, if you torque it all down with the car in the air, that will be the position where the rubber is not twisted. so when you put it at ride height, it twists up, and when the suspension compresses under use it can over-stress and shear the rubber. so it's better to not tighten them down until the car is at ride height, which sets the bushing's neutral position to be the same as the car's neutral position. if it's hard to access those bolts with the tire on and the car down, something i have done before is put the car down, measure the position of the spindle relative to the rest of the car, put the car back up, take the wheel off, and then compress the suspension with a jack until it's at the position you measured earlier. then you can get in there and torque those bolts with more room to work. just be careful not to put any of your anatomy under the bits held up by the jack (knuckle/spindle/control arms) if you do it that way.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2022 20:39
|
|