|
So, today was spent on two projects, HF 4 drawer tool cart was on sale. One thing about the garage at the lake is it doesn't have enough work benches and I am tired of bending over, so I picked up the tool cart while I work on my design for the tear down table. Then started pulling stuff. The service manual acts like the bolt to the water pump is easy peasey to get out. Not my experience. At all. Wound up taking the intake off to get to the bolt and get it off. But I am getting ahead of myself. First I took the exhaust side balance shaft out. Looked okay. the screens were present with one showing what looked to be a rip in right in the middle, but all in all, it looked to be in good shape. But when I pulled the plastic sleeve out this is what I found:  I thought this could have been a result of pulling it with the puller, which is kind of violent, but, whatever; Then I moved to the intake side:  Does the face of that gear look odd? Does to me but I don't know. One thing that was weird was the keeper torx bolt was loose, as in I just unscrewed it by hand. Finally got the intake side shaft out and, well, one of these things is not like the other:  The remnants of all of the screens were there on the intake side, but none of the screens themselves. The engine obviously ate them. Right side is exhaust side, left melty side is intake side. More pics of screens (or lack thereof):  Right on above is intake, left exhaust.  Top exhaust, bottom intake. So, hopefully this is the source of the low oil pressure issue. Now I just need to figure out what all to order. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Jan 16, 2023 |
#
?
Jan 16, 2023 02:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 1, 2024 19:24 |
|
|
I am pretty sure the intake balance shaft played out of the block somehow due to the retaining bolt being so loose. Maybe this was after the screens failed? See here: Okay, these are the parts I laid in: Oil pan kit (comes with fresh bolts and an oil change kit) Bottom timing cover (destroyed due to stripped bolts and manual recommends changing it anyway) Top timing cover gasket "Ultimate" Timing chain kit (comes with upper and lower chains and bolts for cover) Intermediate drive sprocket (spendy, but apparently has some sort of coating that fixes the lash on the chain and cannot be reused with new timing kit) Water Pump bolt Balance shafts Balance shaft seal Balance shaft tube Oil filter retaining post (O rings were completely dried out, this has been known to cause low pressure and when I first saw it prior to pulling the shafts I was worreid I did all this poo poo over a $25 failed part, or more specifically 10 cents worth of o rings on a $25 part) Intake manifold gasket (cheap and figured I probably knockered the other one up on removal) Injector installation kit (messed up one injector seating pulling the manifold) And for good measure, a Blower Motor. (The one I thought I had unstuck still throws codes and moves slow. Code apparently is not related to the resistor however) Just under $1800 from only two popular legit parts sources I have used in the past (don't know if disclosure is verboten on the board or not). I'm too old to deal with cheap Chinesum ebay knockoffs even though that might have totaled a third the price. I'm sure it would have caused 10X the aggravation. Anyone think of anything I might have missed? I figure I got the high dollar items and can make a dealership run in the next couple of weeks it looks like it might take to fulfill the order or have anything else shipped express. (Fingers crossed!) The good news on this type of failure is the glitter in the pan probably came from here straight down the oil pump chain to the pan and not into the block or head. 
EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Jan 17, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2023 00:46
|
|
|
Your much more of a gambling man than I. Hope the rod bearings are ok after all you're putting into it. And yeah that one gear looks turbo hosed to me but I don't touch German stuff much. Could be superior German cogs though. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jan 17, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2023 01:14
|
|
|
yeah before spending that much money, can you drop the oil pan and pop off the rod caps to see what the bearings look like?
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2023 01:22
|
|
|
Raluek posted:yeah before spending that much money, can you drop the oil pan and pop off the rod caps to see what the bearings look like? Not without pulling the engine. You have to take off the rear main seal to get the upper oil pan off to see anything. Low oil pressure even in high mileage 2.0T engines is 90% of the time balance shafts and usually not the bearings, at least according to a random internet stranger who seems to know his poo poo on Audizine. To be clear, this is kind of my hobby and if this one ends up needing a rebuild, that is what I will do and hope to salvage a few of the parts I'm throwing at it. I have another B8 in great shape and if I do nothing but learn enough to keep that one alive, I'd be okay with it. Not happy, but okay.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2023 01:46
|
|
|
I would never have though to use the words "surplus" and "Audi" in the same sentence. You are much braver than me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2023 16:11
|
|
|
I got half my parts in today. The other half are delayed until Monday after they were supposed to be here yesterday. Hopefully I can work remotely midweek next week. In the meantime, I am going to try and cobble together the specific instructions from the Erwin PDFs so I can just have about a 10 page PDF to refer to and fill in any blanks in the instructions on things like torque specs, etc. There is only one part, the plastic balance shaft tube that I got in that just doesn't look right. Some sites say it will fit, some say it won't and dumbass me did not write it down before I left. Hopefully, if I get there and if is the wrong part it will be within driving distance (Clarksville, Memphis or Nashville). Anyone know anything about the part number for an 09 for sure? Part number I ordered was 06H103199K. (Really hope I didn't throw it away.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2023 03:30
|
|
|
So I got the balance shafts in, had to do it twice because the manual doesn't tell you that you have to start the bolt that holds the water pump pulley before seating the intake shaft or you run into this: Moved on to the timing chain, cams did fine:  But, try as I may, I cannot get the crankshaft chain link to line up where it should:  It is just a link off. I have pulled this thing so many times and just cannot get the camshafts locked in a position where the chain will hit all three correct colored links. Any ideas? I did get the blower motor in, but while testing it I forgot to pull the fuel pump fuse and dumped some gas. Not so bad as it cleaned up the oil spills. Also replaced the oil pan. Now I cannot get the steering rack to go back. It looks like per ErWin I will have to take off the tie rod ends. pull the rack and re-adjust it? Unless someone has another idea? Finally, I noticed the plastic water pump was cracked around the temp sensor, so I am going to order an aluminum one while I have this thing apart. Looks like the project is going to take a minute, but I want to do everything right.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2023 06:43
|
|
|
You've got the spring-loaded tensioners locked compressed back with a pin, correct? Not sure if you put new ones in, but new-in- box ones will have a metal rod about double the diameter of a paperclip that holds the tensioner back and away from the chain, so the chain can be loose and adjusted. Once it's in the right spot, you can pull the pins and the tensioner's guides will spring out to the chain and take the slack out. From your pic, it looks like there is one tooth too much slack between the cams, are they locked in place? Also remember to lube up the chains before putting the case back on, and if you can spin it a few times by hand to make sure nothing is hitting, all the better.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2023 07:07
|
|
|
NoWake posted:You've got the spring-loaded tensioners locked compressed back with a pin, correct? Not sure if you put new ones in, but new-in- box ones will have a metal rod about double the diameter of a paperclip that holds the tensioner back and away from the chain, so the chain can be loose and adjusted. Once it's in the right spot, you can pull the pins and the tensioner's guides will spring out to the chain and take the slack out. Thanks, that was very helpful. I Finally got it. HumbleMechanics video came to the rescue. I think you were right on the tooth off, I had about convinced myself otherwise though. The only thing now is when I rotate it everything looks good and stay in time, but the camshaft adjuster "clacks" really loudly. Is that normal? I remember seeing a video on a guy who triaged one of these units even though they are not user serviceable, but I don't remember this issue other than he finally just threw another intake cam in the thing that he got used. I am trying to upload video to imgur but it is being really cantankerous.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2023 19:34
|
|
|
Here is a link to my short video. Couldn't get imgur to take it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyef9KeMyOM A guy on Audizine says its pneumatic and asked it the VVT was installed. It is not, and there is no oil in the system yet as I was testing to make sure nothing was hitting or binding. I guess if it is the phaser itself, it won't hurt to go ahead and button it up and see if it still happens when it's got oil in the system.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2023 02:59
|
|
|
That makes sense.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2023 16:00
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
meatpimp posted:That makes sense. It does to me too after sleeping on it and it would be a cheap fix. Which of course means that is not the answer and I ought to just go ahead and plan on busting out another $2K for heads and an intake cam. It's fine, really, it's all fine.  
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2023 16:22
|
|
|
Didn't get to go to the lake this weekend. My daughter wanted to get away and study for her Praxis exam in audiology (she passed!). I took the time to order some more parts (water pump, injectors and some other miscellaneous stuff) to throw in before I oil her up and give it a whirl. Went to the Pull A Part in Memphis today. They had a 2009 and I wanted to practice getting the headliner down. It just happened to be the same color interior, so I am going back up once I plan ahead a little and can out some juice to the seats to lay them down and get the board out. Just hope no one beats me to it in the meantime. Also got some other junk:  The rearview mirror is an upgrade (hopefully plug and play?) with a compass and thermometer) as is the upper console (Homelink, again, hope its plug and play). If any one knows anything I have to do other than mount these two items to gain those functions, let me know. Mine are fine but I really like homelink so I took a chance. Scored a duct for the intake. At first it looked really suspect with duct tape all over it, but it was pretty clear whoever wrecked the thing and tried to fix it was a crackhead as it really lined up fine with a little patience. So I put the goo gone to it to get rid of the tape residue and it is ready to go. Found a tow hook, that has to be a first for me, always looking for them. And for some reason the plastic cover to the trunk arm was missing and the donor car had one. Finally, scored a gas cap with the lanyard intact. Anyone need any parts in that kind of brown/bronze color, hit me up and I will check for you. The car had "TitleMax" on the windshield and some hideous body work in the front with drywall screws used throughout. All parts totaled $90 they gave me the trunk arm cover. Is it just me or does it seem like these places are pricing stuff just a little lower than I can get it on ebay? A couple of years ago, I figure this same stuff would have cost a little under $40. Hoping to get to the lake either Wednesday or Thursday evening and maybe even swing by the yard and pick up the headliner. The Memphis headliner is dirty but not sagging. I will get it anyway just to recover it if it won't clean up and then have it ready to replace my sagging headliner.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2023 02:55
|
|
|
EvellSnoats posted:All parts totaled $90 they gave me the trunk arm cover. Is it just me or does it seem like these places are pricing stuff just a little lower than I can get it on ebay? A couple of years ago, I figure this same stuff would have cost a little under $40. The internet killed cheap yard prices. Granted I have been in quite some time but it's a lot more expensive than it was in the 90's and 2000's.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2023 15:56
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:The internet killed cheap yard prices. Granted I have been in quite some time but it's a lot more expensive than it was in the 90's and 2000's. Here in Sweden it doesn't seem uncommon to see that they charge as much or in some cases more than what a brand new part costs. Also insane shipping costs sometimes. Super out of touch. Also sadly very rare to have pick-n-pulls. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2023 18:02
|
|
|
Just my experience but my pick and pull girls at the counter seem pretty annoyed when I line all the little interior bits up, I think they feel like then they have to charge me something individually. I almost ONLY get small bits, sometimes a radio. So I’ll now put the one or two biggest items out and then just a little pile of the small bits off to the side. Since doing that they either only charge me for the two things or add some $5-10 charge for something and that’s it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2023 21:26
|
|
|
everdave posted:Just my experience but my pick and pull girls at the counter seem pretty annoyed when I line all the little interior bits up, I think they feel like then they have to charge me something individually. I almost ONLY get small bits, sometimes a radio. So I’ll now put the one or two biggest items out and then just a little pile of the small bits off to the side. Since doing that they either only charge me for the two things or add some $5-10 charge for something and that’s it. Yeah, after looking at the wiring diagram and interwebs, it looks like there is a transmitter for homelink and a bracket I will need to pick up as well as some wiring which may or may not come out easily while I have the headliner down (I wish I could tell if the car was pre-wired, but I have a feeling that it is not based on my research). I am sure the transmitter will be another $20 or so. Not a big deal, but if I had snagged it would have been cheaper or written up as a Misc. Switch ($8). Back in the day, if a part was plastic, they basically did not charge much of anything as it seems they were just trying to get to the metal value as fast as possible.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2023 17:40
|
|
|
You could get a mirror with homelink built in, if you have trouble tracking down the rest of what you need. Most of the mirrors with autodimming, compass, etc are made by Gentex; the plugs vary from car to car, but if you can find one that was a dealer add-on and doesn't have something like OnStar controls in it, it's usually just 3 wires (switched, constant, and ground), sometimes 4 (headlights). The mirror from a 2011-15 Kia Forte comes to mind - the loaded mirror was a dealer add-on. Kia blew them out last year for stupid cheap, I grabbed one for my old car. Auto dimming, compass, and homelink; you can wire the constant wire to switched if you don't want Homelink to work with the car off. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Feb 7, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2023 18:11
|
|
|
Okay, first off, since this is AI and I feel like keeping you in suspense, let me start with I always heard the saddest sentence in the world was "For sale: baby shoes, never worn." Well, I present, "my brokeass babydaddy's ride had to go to pick a part and he left my best work shoes in them" as a close second: My wife was not amused when I suggested an early Valentine's day gift. Purchased a headliner for the Audi. Got it out through the trunk despite all of the more technical the forum hacks telling me I had to take windshield out or it would be irreparably damaged. Came out okay.  Had to lay in some parts, kind of while I am in there type stuff, water pump kit and new fuel injectors. If you don't have one of these fuckers and work on German poo poo, stop and order now:  Began putting it all back together:   Now with only a little bit left in the day and my trip to the lake at an end, I started to crank it. It sounded HORRIBLE. "Clacking" that I complained of a while back was more pronounced, only now it was, as they say, "at speed." I was quite certain I had just thrown $1750 worth of parts in a blender and chunked said blender into a ditch filled with alligators. Fortunately, the battery was dying and so I just quit in favor of having a cold courage building beverage and prayer. Put the battery on the tender and started cleaning the shop. gently caress it, if I'm hosed well at least I tried. So I poured a 1/4 quart of oil in the top end and cranked it again. Got this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikaG6R5_GxE I AM MORE PUMPED THAN A MEMPHIS STRIPPER'S SHOES AT THE PICK A PART!!! Yes it threw codes, but what it did not do was lose oil pressure or puke its guts out. It smoothed out and ran for about 30 minutes to temp including a trip around the neighborhood with no problems! Well, at least no shut your car down before it quits forever in red on the dash problems. So I was exhausted. Over 30 hours of wrenching, more than my share of it underneath the car moving the steering rack around and looking for dropped bolts. I was stiff as hell come Monday morning at 4 am when I took off for home only to smoke Bambi the deer and wind up in a ditch on SR-22 BUT not in the Audi which sits safely in the garage awaiting my return to clear codes and kick rear end.  
EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Feb 14, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 19:01
|
|
|
It's always a GMT800. Great Audi progress!
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 19:05
|
|
|
Holy poo poo, RIP Bambi. Also I've never spent enough time looking around my pick a part to see if they have a miscellaneous thrift shelf but that's a great idea and kind of hilarious. I've bought more than my fair share of wrecked auction cars and yeah people leave poo poo in them. Most of it is usually pretty un-interesting though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 19:08
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:It's always a GMT800. It might be might next project build. It is a true war wagon. Owned it since new. Eats Autozone alternators for breakfast, but other than that it has been rock solid. Great compression with 270,000 on the clock. It needs a bunch of work though, even more since Bambi. For sure I need to get the ABS pump repaired. I want to make it where I can haul my other projects up to my lakehouse and take my time to get them done in order. Next logical build would be Old Blue.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 19:30
|
|
|
EvellSnoats posted:
I had the same exact experience when I put my brother's Golf back together; so fear not. It shot a pang of dread through me at the time, though. I can't remember if the Youtube Video explaining the VW Mk7's cam-mounted VVT failures was from this thread or not, but after watching it, really helps to explain that Mk6's 1) timing sensor correlation issue that didn't go away with new chains or a new crank sensor, 2) that horrible clacking until the thing got a decent amount of oil pumped back into it, and 3) the reason in the first place this VVT thing might have gone out, since I know it was run really low on oil.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 22:07
|
|
|
EvellSnoats posted:It might be might next project build. It is a true war wagon. Owned it since new. Eats Autozone alternators for breakfast, but other than that it has been rock solid. Great compression with 270,000 on the clock. It needs a bunch of work though, even more since Bambi. For sure I need to get the ABS pump repaired. Why wait? I bet you can fix your ruminant impact in less time than it'll take to get the Audi into service position.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2023 01:27
|
|
|
Congrats on the audi, that's awesome.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2023 02:47
|
|
|
So I had a mystery connector that I could not figure out where it went that ended up being the intake manifold runner sensor. That involved taking off the oil filter (got to get a better cap as the filter is a pain to take off otherwise). I put that on and cranked it and it ran terrible. Then I took a look and the MAF plug which is screwed up anyway was off and dangling and the PCV hose blew off. I fixed both those and the car started running much better. I still had two major codes and one problem though. The first code was "P11A300 Cam Shaft actuator 'B' cylinder 1 circuit open." That was due to this:  The bottom part that was dangling went ahead and fell off. I hope this is a connector I can find in the junkyard unless anyone has another source? The second set of codes were with regard to the Electric E Brake. They were: 00473 electronic parking brake control module j540 01314 ecm please read dtc When I live test the E brake Maxidas tells me it is opening and closing without issue. I did find an old thread where a guy had this problem that was caused by a bad MAF connector somehow. [confused] Anyone got an other ideas? The other issue:  I could not get a good pic but it was leaking out of the replaced water pump junction with the oil housing. I am hoping this is temporary, it seems to happen once the car cools off from operating temp. I used Rein parts but cheaped out and went Rock Auto and while they showed a picture of a plastic pump, they sent an aluminum pump. I hope that doesn't turn out to be the issue. So the car looks great:  OR DID until I hit a deer and blew out the fog light grills. This time I was only doing about 45 and was able to brake enough where the deer is only going to be sore in the morning. In any event, sucks. Anyone know of a good source for these grills? Apparently a lot of the aftermarket grills suck. My second deer strike this month. I am going to take up hunting at this rate. Anyone know if those I put about 120 miles on it over the weekend and it is really running great, no indication of low oil pressure. Only the alarm for the E Brake and ESP which I assume is due to the camshaft actuator wiring being FUBAR are keeping me from being idiot light free.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2023 17:50
|
|
|
cursed thread
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2023 18:52
|
|
|
Fix up the deer too OP
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2023 21:27
|
|
|
Warbird posted:Fix up the deer too OP I would fix the first one if I could, insurance offered me $3200 and I keep the truck. I figure about $800 in parts might do it. So that deer is an angel. Had they kept the truck (Co-part must have called 150 times about "picking it up") payout was $3800. I wonder how many people don't even ask for that option?   Audi only suffered a little:  Realistically those grills were not fitting all that well anyway and I had just plasticwelded tabs onto the right side one so I don't feel like this was just a horrible turn of events. Even the deer looked only a little worse for the wear when she took off. Now that I have it sorted out, I might switch the thread to the Suburban. Maybe a let's see just how cheap I can get by kind of thing. Anyone that knows where I can source the camshaft actuator wiring housing or how to make that repair, let me know. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Feb 27, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 23:43
|
|
|
Would like to see the suburban repair - Unreal they gave you so much and you still kept it, huge win!
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 01:53
|
|
|
Yeah the Suburban would be fun to see how cheap it can go. I imagine pretty cheap with all those trucks on the road.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 02:56
|
|
|
$370 from Rock Auto and Amazon and a $12 plastic piece for the headlight surround from Pull a part and Old Blue is fixed.20230226_180305    I think I am going to show it a little more love by cleaning up the interior, painting the dash, new passenger side seat cover, redoing the headliner, etc. I really cannot believe they were going to total this. I did have maybe 6 hours labor and the bumper isn't perfect but it looks okay from 20 feet. Need to get the badge for it. Those get snapped up too quick at the yards. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 6, 2023 |
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2023 02:57
|
|
|
Oh man. I almost jumped on the GMT train instead of the Lexry train, and honestly, still kinda wish I'd jumped on the GMT train - but they wanted an obscene amount of money for a GMT800 with 200k+ miles, so the Lexus won. Yeah, Lexus is a nicer vehicle, but a GMT800 is drat near bulletproof. So much room to work on them. So easy to repair when poo poo hits them. So... much... room... for.... transmission swaps. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2023 09:45
|
|
|
STR posted:Oh man. I almost jumped on the GMT train instead of the Lexry train, and honestly, still kinda wish I'd jumped on the GMT train - but they wanted an obscene amount of money for a GMT800 with 200k+ miles, so the Lexus won. Yeah, Lexus is a nicer vehicle, but a GMT800 is drat near bulletproof. She is on her third transmission at 267K miles, so there is that. Meanwhile my daughter's Lexus RX350 has over 300K and worst thing I have swapped on it was an oil filter housing. I had a 1996 LS400 that I ran over some bailing wire that fell off a truck at night on the interstate and sliced through half of its engine wiring harness and it still got me 30 miles home. Big fan of the GM platform and Lexus brand across all models.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2023 14:14
|
|
|
EvellSnoats posted:Need to get the badge for it. Those get snapped up too quick at the yards. That's often something affordable brand new from the factory or aftermarket. Worth checking at least.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2023 21:42
|
|
|
EvellSnoats posted:She is on her third transmission at 267K miles, so there is that. Meanwhile my daughter's Lexus RX350 has over 300K and worst thing I have swapped on it was an oil filter housing. I had a 1996 LS400 that I ran over some bailing wire that fell off a truck at night on the interstate and sliced through half of its engine wiring harness and it still got me 30 miles home. Big fan of the GM platform and Lexus brand across all models. I'm in an 08 ES 350 (basically just a tarted up V6 Camry) with 182k, still feels like a really solid car overall, still presents extremely well inside and out. Only issues are a sticky sunroof (apparently very common on 07-08) and worn suspension (rear shocks are just there for looks). Outside trunk button is finicky too, but someone stuck... butyl? all over it at some point. PO tried to get it fixed something like 6 years ago going by the service records on lexus.com, but I guess he didn't want to pay for a new switch to be installed. Must have a 4L60 in the Chevy.  I wouldn't mind a first gen LS400. Oddly, one of my bucket list cars. The tarted up Camry will do for now though, and funny enough, it's a lot like driving a cross between my mother's old car (03 Avalon) and SO's car (05 Matrix). All the controls are pretty much identical, except my HVAC and radio swapped spaces compared to the others. The Avalon had a switch to turn off the DRLs though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2023 02:38
|
|
|
STR posted:Oh man. I almost jumped on the GMT train instead of the Lexry train, and honestly, still kinda wish I'd jumped on the GMT train - but they wanted an obscene amount of money for a GMT800 with 200k+ miles, so the Lexus won. Yeah, Lexus is a nicer vehicle, but a GMT800 is drat near bulletproof. I love mine minus the fuel mileage. Omg it destroys fuel like the space shuttle, it's costing me $100 a week to get to work. Its motivating me to get the outback running again though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2023 02:02
|
|
|
My commute with the Vic was pushing 500 miles a week - not counting tolls (I think that added ~$75ish a week on top of two full tanks of gas). That stung my wallet so bad. I'm only working 5 days a week now instead of 7 tho, and an 11 mile drive each way now instead of 35. The downside is I'm in real rush hour on my way in, so I need to leave by.... 6:45. No more of that "leave by 3:30am so I can get in a fight with someone over a parking space, then if I'm lucky I can run my rear end off to catch an early bus instead of the next one, which gets me to the nearest time clock 15 minutes late instead of 30 minutes early" poo poo (clocking in "on time" is considered late enough to get a writeup at that company - I had to clock in by 5:14, even though my schedule said 5:15). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Mar 12, 2023 |
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2023 01:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 1, 2024 19:24 |
|
|
STR posted:My commute with the Vic was pushing 500 miles a week - not counting tolls. drat yea that's a long commute. Mines 16 each way but I get 15mpg absolute tops. Then last week had to use 4wd for snow cause I work second shift and leave at 11:30 before much plowing got done. My scangauge was showing 8.5mpg and it was 2 days before payday so I was sweating lol. It usually averages 13-14 at 65-70 no traffic.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2023 01:50
|
|