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I put about 400 miles on the Audi. 90 of which was going to Clarksville TN to get raped by the VW dealership on some electrical connectors and wire repair kits that I just figured I would buy to give me something to do while I was at the lake. Sunday before last my wife's 2017 Cadillac XT5 had a failure of the thermostat, which apparently is a deal on those cars. She was in Nashville but the thermostat was stuck open so I had her take it to Paris TN to the GM dealership there who was able to fix it under warranty, but it took a few days to get the parts. I can work from up there, so no issues but wintertime on KY lake when the temps are down is pretty boring so I decided to go to Clarksville and get a wire for the actuator that had crumbled and a new MAF wire.  20230307_221138 Good news is these things fixed all codes except my lingering Ebrake code. Bad news is I had a new code about low pressure at the fuel rail. WTF?  20230307_150410 How the hell did that happen?  20230307_160503As you can see, one of the bolts to the cam shaft follower housing sheared. Pain in the rear end to take out as I had to take the housing out. Anyway, I got it all back together, albeit without using triple square bolts so I will need to replace those. But now the three screws which are a bitch to get out from the back of the HPFP have wallowed out from their purchase in the aluminum head and blocks, so it does not seal well, dumping a mix of gas and oil out the back. I've got to order new seals and figure out a way to be able to torque those bolts down, so open to suggestions. I assume simple thread lock wouldn't do much for me? Here is an ebay image of what I am dealing with (unit is upside down).  The three holes are for some long thin torx bolt/screws, those are what I am trying to get in to "stick" a part number for these would be helpful as well. Backed to cursed Audi mode! EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Mar 13, 2023 |
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Mar 13, 2023 22:30
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So, I was able to use a combination of a dewalt angle bit attachemnt and a stubby hex shank 1/4" bit to drill out the aluminum and sneak the helicoils in, just barely enough room. No leaks and everything is holding up good engine wise.  20230408_104537 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrBUT, there is a new issue with two codes on the transmission. The car said it lost the Reverse gear, but I could keep driving it. Reverse starts when I first start the car and then claps out. Drive is not much better. My codes are as follows: P085000 Park Neutral Switch Input Circuit (From engine control module) P270300 Transmission Friction Element D Apply Time Range Performance (From Trans Control Module) It definitely puked some trans fluid when I put the trans cooler back in, so I am thinking I will change out the fluid, filter, etc. to make sure I have enough in it. Other than that, it is still throwing a code P11A400 Cam Shift Acuator "B" Cylinder 1 Range Performance, which I think might be my janky wiring job. I feel I am so close with this car. In the meantime, I finished the headliner, dash and interior and refresh on the Suburban, Pics coming on that.
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Apr 10, 2023 03:10
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Interrupting the ungrateful Audi issues to weigh in on one of ‘Merica’s finest. So the first thing I want to tell you about headliner work is buy one of these:  20230401_181409 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrI stripped the two part headliner in about an hour with this attached to my Makita 18V drill, had to recharge about 3 times. Next, don’t do like I did and pull up part of the fiberglass headliner with the old fabric like this:  20230401_095556 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrThis caused my leading edge by the windshield to be less than optimal and hang down a bit. Hoping I can fix it a little later once I think on it. Pic of nastiness, stuff gets everywhere:  20230401_102906 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrItems used in the refresh:  20230329_185409 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrHalfway through the stripping of the old headliner:  20230401_103737 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrHeadliner up:  20230402_160505 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrI need to take some more after pics to show the dash and steering wheel airbag cover respray.
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Apr 10, 2023 03:44
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EvellSnoats posted:So, I was able to use a combination of a dewalt angle bit attachemnt and a stubby hex shank 1/4" bit to drill out the aluminum and sneak the helicoils in, Can you post a pic of this setup? I've got a couple broken bolts in tight areas that I need to fix, but I don't have a right angle attachment and I've been in decision paralysis deciding which one to get.
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Apr 10, 2023 15:00
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EVERYWHERE 
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[url]https://www.acehardware .com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/bit-extensions/2466449[/url] Be aware you aren't supposed to drill with it per thr packaging but I got it to work. I bought a cheaper Dewalt version that does drill and is more compact, but it was broken out of the box. I wouldn't use this setup on anything harder than aluminum. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Apr 10, 2023 |
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Apr 10, 2023 17:09
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Finished the filter and trans fluid change. There was only about a quart of fluid in the trans. Car moves and shifts great now! Still has a slight coolant leak from somewhere and a couple of other codes, but things are looking up. Heopefully can get everything sorted tomorrow. On the Suburban front, the A/C compressor is coming monday. Hat tip to the A/C thread which tells me the clutch was out. I am just replacing the whole thing.
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Apr 23, 2023 02:45
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Rode around for about 45 minutes. Stumbles a bit when cold but once it warmed up everything was fine. Here are the remaining codes, the actuator code is the most persistent: P217700 system too lean off idle bank 1 P050699 idle control system rpm lower than expected P218700 system too lean at idle bank1 P11a400 cam shift actuator 'B' cylinder 1 range performance I had a bad connecter on the first actuator towards the front of the engine. It's a 2 wire connecter, wonder if polarity matters? I thought I hookedbitbup both ways. Thoughts? Pretty pumped I didn't fry the 6 speed. I'm borrowing a lift when I do this on my 2012 Avant.
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Apr 23, 2023 23:47
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Are you sure it's just a + and - wire in that connector, and not a + and signal wire? The actuator may be grounding through the engine instead of that connector. But I bet all of the other codes are related to the cam actuator not working for one reason or another. Full disclosure: I've never worked on a VAG product beyond helping a friend change an air filter on a Jetta (that was pretty overengineered in itself, why would they put it in the engine cover  )
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Apr 23, 2023 23:56
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Love this thread. GMT800 Krew
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Apr 24, 2023 17:33
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STR posted:Are you sure it's just a + and - wire in that connector, and not a + and signal wire? The actuator may be grounding through the engine instead of that connector. But I bet all of the other codes are related to the cam actuator not working for one reason or another. That makes sense and I bet you are right. The Erwin wiring diagram is tough to sled through in adobe, and I guess if I have them reversed it would be even more likely to throw a code. I long for a real Bentley manual like with my 540i. Oh well, going to be a couple of weeks before I get back up there. Edit for found this in Audizine for someone with a similar problem: "Each actuator is just a simple 2 pin, pin 2 to 12v, pin 1 to the ECU which grounds it when it wants to activate the actuator. That 12v source is shared with a variety of devices on the engine." EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Apr 25, 2023 |
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Apr 25, 2023 02:50
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Y'all need some 'burban love. And I (few beers in) am here to 'blige. 20230417_182604 AC works good now.  20230430_145939 Got a check engine light because I tried to detail the engine while waiting for parts. (Its fiine once I get it on the highway.) Otherwise, good as it ever was in 2002 when I bought it. Back to Audi sheeet next week, promise. Just need to change out cam actuartor for cylinder 1 once I get to the lake. Meanwhile, this thread can go one of two directions: 1)1998 BMW 540i I bought 14 years ago for my then 16 year old with 180k miles OR 2) some Copart SUV (chick car) Audi with a 2.0 I can buy for my youngest for graduation (I swear I will get her something good if it is not perfect in a year when she actually graduates.) Talk about bad decisions. The 2 people follwing me (and my wife) know I am going to DO BOTH anyway. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 03:09 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 03:07
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Both sound like train wrecks but a Copart Audi anything is automotive insanity and voted yes
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May 3, 2023 03:54
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Just got back from my lakehouse to Oxford MS in, drum roll please, a Red Audi A4 Quattro!!  20230514_112521When people talk about cars getting bigger, it looks positively huge next to its 11 year older cousin, a BMW 540i. It was a 184 miles. I went through the country which is shorter in mileage but longer in time to avoid I-40 and because I planned on stopping every 45 minutes or so of the 3.5 hour trip to check fluids, etc. It held coolant brilliantly. I guess it needed some heat cycles to quit producing the very small puddles which only were seen on the drip tray over night. Here was the major culrpit that I fixed Saturday and was a real bitch to get to without putting it in the service position and taking out the rad support.  20230512_133053 I don't remember moving that particular clamp and have no idea why I would have except maybe to get the upper part out of the way during the timing chain replacement. It threw a TPMS code when I slowed for a car stopped in the road after to change a tire after topping a hill. The code said lost signal. The pressure was fine, I reset the system and it drove about 75 miles home without throwing it again. It is not code free, but the check engine light is no longer on! The persistent codes are as follows: P218700 system too lean at idle bank1 P044100 evap emission control sys incorrect purge flow The gas mileage appears fine. The evap code was new to this weekend after several 20-30 mile shake down trips. The lean at idle code ALWAYS comes back. I thought it might be a bad PCV hose coming off the separator, and it still might be, but it started raining cats and dogs when I got home so that will be a job for another day. It also has a persistent code, 01134 alarm horn fault, but I know what that is about and the alarm seems to work fine. Apparently there is a backup battery on the siren horn that has probably played out after 14 years. I still need to replace the headliner at some point with the junkyard one I got. The junkyard one is not perfect in terms of cleanliness, but I think the fabric available just isn't worth stripping this one. Right now it just isn't hanging down anywhere but the very back and you kind of have to look for it to know its sagging. With coming up on 210K miles, I don't see this one as a long term people hauler, just a kind of beater and test mule for working on my Avant. Next project is the 540i where babby might pull out the paint gun. Open to suggestions on titles for that thread, but I think it probably ought to be a separate thread? I am also going to add up all I spent on this at some point. Aw who am I kidding? No sense in making an exhibit for any future divorce proceeding. I am going to put it all in at around $5,500, with the car. Some of my parts cannon parts were unecessary, probably about $300 worth sitting on the shelf. I can see more B8s in my future. This car was really fun to do but I cannot say I would be as optimistic if I was towed home this morning. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 23:13 on May 14, 2023 |
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May 14, 2023 23:11
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EvellSnoats posted:Just got back from my lakehouse to Oxford MS in, drum roll please, a Red Audi A4 Quattro!! Got me wondering, I think it's a visual trick. According to this, the Audi is only an inch wider.  I think the very end of the BMW pinches in slightly, and the wider tail lights on the Audi visually stretch it too.
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May 14, 2023 23:53
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You are right, they are really close. I would have thought the A4 would be closer to a 3 series and not the 5, but it looks like the 1998 A4 was about an inch wider than the 540i as well. So not that far off as to width. The BMW seats are much much better though and I would have thought the car wider than the A4.
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May 15, 2023 00:48
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EvellSnoats posted:
These two codes together could mean the purge valve is sticking open slightly all time. Try pulling the line from the tank off the purge valve at idle, and see if you've got vacuum with the purge solenoid disconnected.
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May 15, 2023 13:36
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heyou posted:These two codes together could mean the purge valve is sticking open slightly all time. Try pulling the line from the tank off the purge valve at idle, and see if you've got vacuum with the purge solenoid disconnected. I've got these on my B7 A4, haven't had the time to sit down with VCDS and try to play with the N80 control + measuring blocks. Fuel smell when tank is more than 3/4 full. The PCV on mine has always given me trouble though, and I remember breaking a clamp off the hose in the past -- maybe it's just popped loose over time.
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May 22, 2023 19:41
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heyou posted:These two codes together could mean the purge valve is sticking open slightly all time. Try pulling the line from the tank off the purge valve at idle, and see if you've got vacuum with the purge solenoid disconnected. It was the purge valve! Pulled it and tried to put the new one in. Total bitch of a job for how easy it should be. When I tried to put the new one in, I could not get the hose to go in and there seemed to be something blocking it. Come to find out, it had been replaced once before and the nipple broke off in the hose and they just shoved it in somehow. I did not have that size hose so I drilled out the old nipple. Anyway, code is now gone and I am just left with the intake leak code which I can fix down the road with new helicoils to get the bolts snugged down. In 540i news, I replaced the thermostat which got rid of that code which was putting me in limp mode and pumped more trans fluid into it. Now it drives like a car that has not been on the road since 2019. Flat spotted tires and rusty rotors, needs a recharge on the AC but I have a lot more in the budget without having to change out the transmission.
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May 31, 2023 02:08
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