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EvellSnoats posted:I think if you are talking about the red "marks" on top of the chain, I think that is just a reflection from the hood, but I will check it out. I was looking for the chain sides to be differently colored but saw nothing on the kind and will look closer this weekend. Those yellow marks on the sprockets line up with the yellow marks on the block, was this you? Points to someone being in there in the past, if not. This was recommended when I did the timing chains on my Golf's 2.5L, to ensure the VVT stuff connected to the sprocket had all their oil passages lined up when you took it off and put it back on.
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Jan 5, 2023 16:45
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 16:18 |
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You've got the spring-loaded tensioners locked compressed back with a pin, correct? Not sure if you put new ones in, but new-in- box ones will have a metal rod about double the diameter of a paperclip that holds the tensioner back and away from the chain, so the chain can be loose and adjusted. Once it's in the right spot, you can pull the pins and the tensioner's guides will spring out to the chain and take the slack out. From your pic, it looks like there is one tooth too much slack between the cams, are they locked in place? Also remember to lube up the chains before putting the case back on, and if you can spin it a few times by hand to make sure nothing is hitting, all the better.
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Jan 29, 2023 07:07
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EvellSnoats posted:
I had the same exact experience when I put my brother's Golf back together; so fear not. It shot a pang of dread through me at the time, though. I can't remember if the Youtube Video explaining the VW Mk7's cam-mounted VVT failures was from this thread or not, but after watching it, really helps to explain that Mk6's 1) timing sensor correlation issue that didn't go away with new chains or a new crank sensor, 2) that horrible clacking until the thing got a decent amount of oil pumped back into it, and 3) the reason in the first place this VVT thing might have gone out, since I know it was run really low on oil.
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Feb 14, 2023 22:07
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