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As promised, from the Exorcism thread, my $3k, 208k latest poor decision. Behold! Purchased it last week off of govdeals.com. Their stuff always carries a premium but it was on my way from my home to my lakehouse and figured I would check it out. Would not bid a dime over $3100 and my bid with a couple of minutes left after a 10 minute look at it in the impound lot won the day at $3,025, saved enough for a valucraft battery which solved a lot, but not all of its ills. The reason I bid on the thing at all was the Carfax showed a prior CPO car with high miles but lots of service records. The glovebox yielded a lot more, including timing chain replacement and over $12K in service records post the CPO mileage.  The car drove the approximate 30 miles from the auction site to my lake house. Stupid, I know. My buddy talked me into not needing a tow. TPMS sensors on and it pestered me about low oil level. More on that later. We made it to my friends and then had to go get a battery as it would not jump off. Car started fine, got to my lake house and then proceeded to be really hard to start due to what I think was bad gas. Finally ran enough HEET and new gas through it and it seems to be okay except for the low oil pressure issue. Having looked over the forums and youtube videos about the 2.0T, I am really worried. I am also 3 hours away. So, I think we will go slow, diagnose the problem and hope its not balance shafts. Only other think is this:  'And maybe this:  Anyone have any idea how to test the resistor before I spend $100+ on something likely to work? The motor is locked up, so I know I need that. I have a PCV diaphragm ready to install. There was a LOT of vacuum at the oiil fill. I need a low pressure oil sensor. I bought one and hooked it up to the oil filter housing which is wrong per my research. Need to rectify that. Then just pray my oil pressure issues are related to those things and not failing filters at the cam bridge and balance shafts. Any input both welcome and encouraged.
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Dec 15, 2022 02:13
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honda whisperer posted:Are you mad? You have no idea. Kinda want to quit drinking so much, buying this thing could make it go either way. I bought a 2012 Avant a few months ago that I love.  Knowing it will need timing chain service, etc. and it being otherwise perfect, figured I needed a practice mule. I am hoping for the worst on this piece of poo poo so the karma that is Audi balances out. Of course that might involve buying at least two more sacrificial whores. i travel to TN tomorrow to continue the quest....
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Dec 16, 2022 01:46
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builds character posted:I really like that wera tool kit, but I think maybe it will be insufficient here... Yep, but think I need the pinouts and resistance readings. Will download ErWin tomorrow but not sure that is covered
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Dec 16, 2022 01:50
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Okay I hooked up a mechanical oil pressure Guage to the low pressure switch (new) spot and found 12 psi at idle, 47 psi at 2000 and 60 at 3500 rpm.   My cam code went away, but I still have P164D00 reduced oil pressure switch malfunction Other than the warning to check oil level, it is basically running fine although it seems to not like inclines. Car is still stumbling a bit, but that could be residual bad gas. I checked the diaphragm on the PCV and it is fine, not torn. I put it back in because it looked superior to the Chinese autozone part I purchased. Safety tip, clean the ashtray before getting out in a seized car.  I forgot how stupid tight Audi poo poo is, had to do this to get high pressure oil switch out: 
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Dec 18, 2022 00:55
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Well I put the mechanical gauge back on and drove it a couple of miles. Once the car got up to temp, the oil pressure did dip down to 5 on any sort of incline/decline. Nursed it home and into the garage. Had to let it cool down to get it restarted. Started to pull the pan. Despite some youtube videos to the contrary, looks like I will have to drop the subframe, there are just some bolts I cannot get to (about 3). One torx bolt is also hollowed out, but it is pretty accessible. I don't have my dremel tool here to cut a slot and may try to just hammer in a sacrificial larger bit or a hex bit. There are two bolts in there that are not OE, a 10mm and a hex head bolt. So I am going to order a pan kit with new bolts as well. The oil that came out looks good (it was fresh), nothing frightening in the way of chunks came out at least. So, it clearly has intermittent low oil pressure. I just hope there is not much screwed up as a result of driving it the little bit I did. Besides the everpresent P164d00 reduced oil pressure switch malfunction, the following codes returned: P019100 fuel rail pressure sensor a circuit range/peformance P034100 camshaft pos circuit range/performance P030x00 cyl 3, 4 2 misfire detected P030000 random/multiple cylinder misfire Pretty sure this is going to wind up being the balance shafts, but I'm going to try and be patient with it.
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Dec 18, 2022 20:40
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Not good:  So bits of metal flakes that are magnetic. Also a couple of very small pieces of sealant. Filter was not clogged.  And I want to say I read someplace this was the latest version of the oil pump:  So I guess I will start pulling it apart. Will probably stay an extra day up here and see what the cam bridge looks like. Got ErWin downloaded and trying to stay in my happy place. 
EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Dec 19, 2022 |
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Dec 19, 2022 19:57
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blindjoe posted:I had the same optimisim.... Nothing of the kind. I expect (and deserve) several kicks in the balls. I am already looking and figuring logistics on used engines but I am thinking just a little glitter means maybe I can rebuild this one for close to the same money. (Okay maybe I am a little optimistic). Frankly if I can find a cheaper engine I can rebuild closer to my shop and do the transplant later, I will. Otherwise, this will slow up a bit posting wise, but I promise to see it through and it gives me an excuse to test out the new Harbor Freight coming soon in Murray, KY that is only 20 minutes away from my lake house.
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Dec 20, 2022 03:08
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Warbird posted:Did you use chunky or smooth oil OP? Extra Chunky, but fully synthetic. Coolant is tears from a stripper without a kid.
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Dec 21, 2022 17:43
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Long weekend and I might be out past my tool order. But first, some fuckery: This plastic bag was in the air intake pipe, almost like it was placed there. I'm wondering if the outfit auctioning this thing off was screwing with it to try and make it stumble? It would have been a once in a lifetime shot for it to get picked up on the road and the bag looked almost new. Really weird, but the car is halfway apart now and this likely has nothing to do with its low pressure problems but could be why its pressure at the crankcase was high? Anyway, I did this:  Honestly I was going to make room on one of my stands at home I was stripping an engine on and move my crane up temporarily (this project is at a vacation home), but I think I am going to leave it in. I am waiting for timing tools to take off the lower timing cover. I pulled the PCV unit and the intake cam under there looks okay to me, but that just means no apparent scoring and obviously I have not seen the journals. Once I have timing tools I figure I can pull the cambridge and hope its a plugged filter there. So last night I started cleaning the interior, which really is not bad at all. Only two things, the drivers seat has some splitting going on:  Damage is just that one area, so I am thinking pull the cover and find an upholstery shop? Ebay parts so far are worse looking than this. Suggestions welcome. The headliner needs to come out. According to ErWin, it comes out through the front windshield, which ain't happening so I am kind of looking for a junkyard board to practice on. My prior headliner replacement job was marginal at best and its tough to find anyone to do the job anymore that will do it right, so I guess I am going to take a stab at it. In other good news, I wacked the bottom of the fan motor and unlocked it. Sprayed some lube on it and it turns. Stuck it in the car without hooking it up permanent and it powered up and spun a little. I am going to keep at it with oil and see if it throws any codes. Still have no idea how to test the resistor and ErWin was no help. Would like to save the $300 bucks a cheapie replacement of both would cost, but for now there is no sense in spending that money on new until I figure out what is up with the engine.
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Dec 31, 2022 13:45
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Here are some pics:   (All plugs looked like this.) Fortunately, my timing tool kit gets here tomorrow so I can take it up to my lake house and spend some time on it this weekend and see if there is any obvious damage with special attention to the balance shafts which I will want to pull last due to understanding once you pull them, they have to be replaced. Will probably check clearance on the bottom bearings too, so any suggestions on that are welcome. Its been years since I have done that kind of work so don't worry about hurting my feelings.
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Jan 4, 2023 17:31
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STR posted:This - I've had cars with 50k that looked much worse. Someone was extremely religious about oil changes. Yeah, I found a bunch of receipts in the glove box going back years and the carfax indicated it was pretty religiously maintained. I'm with you on the lobe but I have no idea either. I changed out the cam and chain on my 1967 C-10 20 years ago and the belt and cam on my 1999 Volvo V70X about 8 years ago. Both ran fine afterwards, but I think that was beginners luck after looking at all the Youtube videos on the subject of the 2.0T. Right now I think the plan is to go ahead and pull the pump and upper oil pan and see what the bottom bearings look like. If all of that is good, I will go ahead and change out the oil pump (I know that isn't likely what is causing low oil pressure, but it is old anyway and I don't want to drop the pan again) and button up the bottom end, crack open the timing cover and start looking at the top end. Anyone with any hints on rolling in bearings with the engine in place, throw them at me. As well as suggestions on how to better go about this partial birth abortion of a project.
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Jan 4, 2023 21:58
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STR posted:Are those marks on the cam sprockets supposed to line up with the marks on the chain? If not, I don't really see anything except maybe a lobe looking a little sad (I don't do cams or timing though, beyond replacing a timing belt when I have to). I think if you are talking about the red "marks" on top of the chain, I think that is just a reflection from the hood, but I will check it out. I was looking for the chain sides to be differently colored but saw nothing on the kind and will look closer this weekend.
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Jan 4, 2023 22:00
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NoWake posted:Those yellow marks on the sprockets line up with the yellow marks on the block, was this you? Points to someone being in there in the past, if not. This was recommended when I did the timing chains on my Golf's 2.5L, to ensure the VVT stuff connected to the sprocket had all their oil passages lined up when you took it off and put it back on. Not me, but there were service records for timing chain replacement at 125k.
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Jan 5, 2023 18:53
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Timing was good. Unfortunately, a couple of the T30 torx bolts holding it down low hollowed out on me, so I had to do some violence: So it now sits like this:  I pulled the vacuum motor off as well as the cambridge. The filter that normally disintegrates in the cambridge was gone. I understand they recommended removing that when the car has a timing service. The little filter in the vacuum motor was clean. No signs of metal. Anyone with tips on how to line the vacuum up with the cam to reseat it, let me know. The balance shafts move freely but I am unsure on the timing settings for them, of if they even get timed. There is one different color link on that chain, but it doesn't seem to match to any of the marks on the balance shaft gears. I have some more pics to share tomorrow. I removed the intake cam timing valve. When I was checking to see if the balance shafts were moving by turning the engine, it spit oil about three feet out of the end of the cam shaft where the valve was. Don't know if maybe there was some sort of obstruction there or something? It only did it once. I went ahead and pulled the oil pump and screen. Screen was clean. All of the stuff on the pump seemed to work and it turned pretty cleanly except for the sucking noises I attribute to being a pump. I think I mentioned wanting to check the crankshaft bearings, but to do that you have to remove the upper oil pan which involves pulling the rear main seal which you cannot do with the engine connected to the transmission. Will update tomorrow with my proposed game plan. In the meantime, I detailed the interior:  You would really never know this car had 200K on the clock. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jan 9, 2023 |
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Jan 9, 2023 01:51
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Additional pics showing balance shafts: Intake  Both  Vacuum pump screen:  Link to Video of oil pump: https://i.imgur.com/F0mc9IW.mp4
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Jan 9, 2023 17:05
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Motronic posted:That's basically everything overhead cam made in the last couple decades. The entire front of the quite well regarded Toyota 5.7 looks pretty much the same, but with twice as many and they're even longer. Ordered some tools and it looks like they might make it before this weekend that I can take as a long one if I get one thing out at work. If not, I will just work through this weekend and head to the lake maybe Tuesday afternoon of next week and spend a little longer. Only problem being parts seem to take longer to get in Buchanan TN vs Oxford, MS. Meantime, I collect old parts cabinets, this is my latest and largest: 
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Jan 12, 2023 02:16
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So, today was spent on two projects, HF 4 drawer tool cart was on sale. One thing about the garage at the lake is it doesn't have enough work benches and I am tired of bending over, so I picked up the tool cart while I work on my design for the tear down table. Then started pulling stuff. The service manual acts like the bolt to the water pump is easy peasey to get out. Not my experience. At all. Wound up taking the intake off to get to the bolt and get it off. But I am getting ahead of myself. First I took the exhaust side balance shaft out. Looked okay. the screens were present with one showing what looked to be a rip in right in the middle, but all in all, it looked to be in good shape. But when I pulled the plastic sleeve out this is what I found:  I thought this could have been a result of pulling it with the puller, which is kind of violent, but, whatever; Then I moved to the intake side:  Does the face of that gear look odd? Does to me but I don't know. One thing that was weird was the keeper torx bolt was loose, as in I just unscrewed it by hand. Finally got the intake side shaft out and, well, one of these things is not like the other:  The remnants of all of the screens were there on the intake side, but none of the screens themselves. The engine obviously ate them. Right side is exhaust side, left melty side is intake side. More pics of screens (or lack thereof):  Right on above is intake, left exhaust.  Top exhaust, bottom intake. So, hopefully this is the source of the low oil pressure issue. Now I just need to figure out what all to order. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Jan 16, 2023 |
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Jan 16, 2023 02:44
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I am pretty sure the intake balance shaft played out of the block somehow due to the retaining bolt being so loose. Maybe this was after the screens failed? See here: Okay, these are the parts I laid in: Oil pan kit (comes with fresh bolts and an oil change kit) Bottom timing cover (destroyed due to stripped bolts and manual recommends changing it anyway) Top timing cover gasket "Ultimate" Timing chain kit (comes with upper and lower chains and bolts for cover) Intermediate drive sprocket (spendy, but apparently has some sort of coating that fixes the lash on the chain and cannot be reused with new timing kit) Water Pump bolt Balance shafts Balance shaft seal Balance shaft tube Oil filter retaining post (O rings were completely dried out, this has been known to cause low pressure and when I first saw it prior to pulling the shafts I was worreid I did all this poo poo over a $25 failed part, or more specifically 10 cents worth of o rings on a $25 part) Intake manifold gasket (cheap and figured I probably knockered the other one up on removal) Injector installation kit (messed up one injector seating pulling the manifold) And for good measure, a Blower Motor. (The one I thought I had unstuck still throws codes and moves slow. Code apparently is not related to the resistor however) Just under $1800 from only two popular legit parts sources I have used in the past (don't know if disclosure is verboten on the board or not). I'm too old to deal with cheap Chinesum ebay knockoffs even though that might have totaled a third the price. I'm sure it would have caused 10X the aggravation. Anyone think of anything I might have missed? I figure I got the high dollar items and can make a dealership run in the next couple of weeks it looks like it might take to fulfill the order or have anything else shipped express. (Fingers crossed!) The good news on this type of failure is the glitter in the pan probably came from here straight down the oil pump chain to the pan and not into the block or head. 
EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Jan 17, 2023 |
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Jan 17, 2023 00:46
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Raluek posted:yeah before spending that much money, can you drop the oil pan and pop off the rod caps to see what the bearings look like? Not without pulling the engine. You have to take off the rear main seal to get the upper oil pan off to see anything. Low oil pressure even in high mileage 2.0T engines is 90% of the time balance shafts and usually not the bearings, at least according to a random internet stranger who seems to know his poo poo on Audizine. To be clear, this is kind of my hobby and if this one ends up needing a rebuild, that is what I will do and hope to salvage a few of the parts I'm throwing at it. I have another B8 in great shape and if I do nothing but learn enough to keep that one alive, I'd be okay with it. Not happy, but okay.
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Jan 17, 2023 01:46
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I got half my parts in today. The other half are delayed until Monday after they were supposed to be here yesterday. Hopefully I can work remotely midweek next week. In the meantime, I am going to try and cobble together the specific instructions from the Erwin PDFs so I can just have about a 10 page PDF to refer to and fill in any blanks in the instructions on things like torque specs, etc. There is only one part, the plastic balance shaft tube that I got in that just doesn't look right. Some sites say it will fit, some say it won't and dumbass me did not write it down before I left. Hopefully, if I get there and if is the wrong part it will be within driving distance (Clarksville, Memphis or Nashville). Anyone know anything about the part number for an 09 for sure? Part number I ordered was 06H103199K. (Really hope I didn't throw it away.)
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Jan 21, 2023 03:30
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So I got the balance shafts in, had to do it twice because the manual doesn't tell you that you have to start the bolt that holds the water pump pulley before seating the intake shaft or you run into this: Moved on to the timing chain, cams did fine:  But, try as I may, I cannot get the crankshaft chain link to line up where it should:  It is just a link off. I have pulled this thing so many times and just cannot get the camshafts locked in a position where the chain will hit all three correct colored links. Any ideas? I did get the blower motor in, but while testing it I forgot to pull the fuel pump fuse and dumped some gas. Not so bad as it cleaned up the oil spills. Also replaced the oil pan. Now I cannot get the steering rack to go back. It looks like per ErWin I will have to take off the tie rod ends. pull the rack and re-adjust it? Unless someone has another idea? Finally, I noticed the plastic water pump was cracked around the temp sensor, so I am going to order an aluminum one while I have this thing apart. Looks like the project is going to take a minute, but I want to do everything right.
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Jan 29, 2023 06:43
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NoWake posted:You've got the spring-loaded tensioners locked compressed back with a pin, correct? Not sure if you put new ones in, but new-in- box ones will have a metal rod about double the diameter of a paperclip that holds the tensioner back and away from the chain, so the chain can be loose and adjusted. Once it's in the right spot, you can pull the pins and the tensioner's guides will spring out to the chain and take the slack out. Thanks, that was very helpful. I Finally got it. HumbleMechanics video came to the rescue. I think you were right on the tooth off, I had about convinced myself otherwise though. The only thing now is when I rotate it everything looks good and stay in time, but the camshaft adjuster "clacks" really loudly. Is that normal? I remember seeing a video on a guy who triaged one of these units even though they are not user serviceable, but I don't remember this issue other than he finally just threw another intake cam in the thing that he got used. I am trying to upload video to imgur but it is being really cantankerous.
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Jan 29, 2023 19:34
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Here is a link to my short video. Couldn't get imgur to take it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyef9KeMyOM A guy on Audizine says its pneumatic and asked it the VVT was installed. It is not, and there is no oil in the system yet as I was testing to make sure nothing was hitting or binding. I guess if it is the phaser itself, it won't hurt to go ahead and button it up and see if it still happens when it's got oil in the system.
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Jan 30, 2023 02:59
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meatpimp posted:That makes sense. It does to me too after sleeping on it and it would be a cheap fix. Which of course means that is not the answer and I ought to just go ahead and plan on busting out another $2K for heads and an intake cam. It's fine, really, it's all fine.  
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Jan 30, 2023 16:22
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Didn't get to go to the lake this weekend. My daughter wanted to get away and study for her Praxis exam in audiology (she passed!). I took the time to order some more parts (water pump, injectors and some other miscellaneous stuff) to throw in before I oil her up and give it a whirl. Went to the Pull A Part in Memphis today. They had a 2009 and I wanted to practice getting the headliner down. It just happened to be the same color interior, so I am going back up once I plan ahead a little and can out some juice to the seats to lay them down and get the board out. Just hope no one beats me to it in the meantime. Also got some other junk:  The rearview mirror is an upgrade (hopefully plug and play?) with a compass and thermometer) as is the upper console (Homelink, again, hope its plug and play). If any one knows anything I have to do other than mount these two items to gain those functions, let me know. Mine are fine but I really like homelink so I took a chance. Scored a duct for the intake. At first it looked really suspect with duct tape all over it, but it was pretty clear whoever wrecked the thing and tried to fix it was a crackhead as it really lined up fine with a little patience. So I put the goo gone to it to get rid of the tape residue and it is ready to go. Found a tow hook, that has to be a first for me, always looking for them. And for some reason the plastic cover to the trunk arm was missing and the donor car had one. Finally, scored a gas cap with the lanyard intact. Anyone need any parts in that kind of brown/bronze color, hit me up and I will check for you. The car had "TitleMax" on the windshield and some hideous body work in the front with drywall screws used throughout. All parts totaled $90 they gave me the trunk arm cover. Is it just me or does it seem like these places are pricing stuff just a little lower than I can get it on ebay? A couple of years ago, I figure this same stuff would have cost a little under $40. Hoping to get to the lake either Wednesday or Thursday evening and maybe even swing by the yard and pick up the headliner. The Memphis headliner is dirty but not sagging. I will get it anyway just to recover it if it won't clean up and then have it ready to replace my sagging headliner.
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Feb 6, 2023 02:55
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everdave posted:Just my experience but my pick and pull girls at the counter seem pretty annoyed when I line all the little interior bits up, I think they feel like then they have to charge me something individually. I almost ONLY get small bits, sometimes a radio. So I’ll now put the one or two biggest items out and then just a little pile of the small bits off to the side. Since doing that they either only charge me for the two things or add some $5-10 charge for something and that’s it. Yeah, after looking at the wiring diagram and interwebs, it looks like there is a transmitter for homelink and a bracket I will need to pick up as well as some wiring which may or may not come out easily while I have the headliner down (I wish I could tell if the car was pre-wired, but I have a feeling that it is not based on my research). I am sure the transmitter will be another $20 or so. Not a big deal, but if I had snagged it would have been cheaper or written up as a Misc. Switch ($8). Back in the day, if a part was plastic, they basically did not charge much of anything as it seems they were just trying to get to the metal value as fast as possible.
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Feb 7, 2023 17:40
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Okay, first off, since this is AI and I feel like keeping you in suspense, let me start with I always heard the saddest sentence in the world was "For sale: baby shoes, never worn." Well, I present, "my brokeass babydaddy's ride had to go to pick a part and he left my best work shoes in them" as a close second: My wife was not amused when I suggested an early Valentine's day gift. Purchased a headliner for the Audi. Got it out through the trunk despite all of the more technical the forum hacks telling me I had to take windshield out or it would be irreparably damaged. Came out okay.  Had to lay in some parts, kind of while I am in there type stuff, water pump kit and new fuel injectors. If you don't have one of these fuckers and work on German poo poo, stop and order now:  Began putting it all back together:   Now with only a little bit left in the day and my trip to the lake at an end, I started to crank it. It sounded HORRIBLE. "Clacking" that I complained of a while back was more pronounced, only now it was, as they say, "at speed." I was quite certain I had just thrown $1750 worth of parts in a blender and chunked said blender into a ditch filled with alligators. Fortunately, the battery was dying and so I just quit in favor of having a cold courage building beverage and prayer. Put the battery on the tender and started cleaning the shop. gently caress it, if I'm hosed well at least I tried. So I poured a 1/4 quart of oil in the top end and cranked it again. Got this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikaG6R5_GxE I AM MORE PUMPED THAN A MEMPHIS STRIPPER'S SHOES AT THE PICK A PART!!! Yes it threw codes, but what it did not do was lose oil pressure or puke its guts out. It smoothed out and ran for about 30 minutes to temp including a trip around the neighborhood with no problems! Well, at least no shut your car down before it quits forever in red on the dash problems. So I was exhausted. Over 30 hours of wrenching, more than my share of it underneath the car moving the steering rack around and looking for dropped bolts. I was stiff as hell come Monday morning at 4 am when I took off for home only to smoke Bambi the deer and wind up in a ditch on SR-22 BUT not in the Audi which sits safely in the garage awaiting my return to clear codes and kick rear end.  
EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Feb 14, 2023 |
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Feb 14, 2023 19:01
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meatpimp posted:It's always a GMT800. It might be might next project build. It is a true war wagon. Owned it since new. Eats Autozone alternators for breakfast, but other than that it has been rock solid. Great compression with 270,000 on the clock. It needs a bunch of work though, even more since Bambi. For sure I need to get the ABS pump repaired. I want to make it where I can haul my other projects up to my lakehouse and take my time to get them done in order. Next logical build would be Old Blue.
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Feb 14, 2023 19:30
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So I had a mystery connector that I could not figure out where it went that ended up being the intake manifold runner sensor. That involved taking off the oil filter (got to get a better cap as the filter is a pain to take off otherwise). I put that on and cranked it and it ran terrible. Then I took a look and the MAF plug which is screwed up anyway was off and dangling and the PCV hose blew off. I fixed both those and the car started running much better. I still had two major codes and one problem though. The first code was "P11A300 Cam Shaft actuator 'B' cylinder 1 circuit open." That was due to this:  The bottom part that was dangling went ahead and fell off. I hope this is a connector I can find in the junkyard unless anyone has another source? The second set of codes were with regard to the Electric E Brake. They were: 00473 electronic parking brake control module j540 01314 ecm please read dtc When I live test the E brake Maxidas tells me it is opening and closing without issue. I did find an old thread where a guy had this problem that was caused by a bad MAF connector somehow. [confused] Anyone got an other ideas? The other issue:  I could not get a good pic but it was leaking out of the replaced water pump junction with the oil housing. I am hoping this is temporary, it seems to happen once the car cools off from operating temp. I used Rein parts but cheaped out and went Rock Auto and while they showed a picture of a plastic pump, they sent an aluminum pump. I hope that doesn't turn out to be the issue. So the car looks great:  OR DID until I hit a deer and blew out the fog light grills. This time I was only doing about 45 and was able to brake enough where the deer is only going to be sore in the morning. In any event, sucks. Anyone know of a good source for these grills? Apparently a lot of the aftermarket grills suck. My second deer strike this month. I am going to take up hunting at this rate. Anyone know if those I put about 120 miles on it over the weekend and it is really running great, no indication of low oil pressure. Only the alarm for the E Brake and ESP which I assume is due to the camshaft actuator wiring being FUBAR are keeping me from being idiot light free.
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Feb 26, 2023 17:50
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Warbird posted:Fix up the deer too OP I would fix the first one if I could, insurance offered me $3200 and I keep the truck. I figure about $800 in parts might do it. So that deer is an angel. Had they kept the truck (Co-part must have called 150 times about "picking it up") payout was $3800. I wonder how many people don't even ask for that option?   Audi only suffered a little:  Realistically those grills were not fitting all that well anyway and I had just plasticwelded tabs onto the right side one so I don't feel like this was just a horrible turn of events. Even the deer looked only a little worse for the wear when she took off. Now that I have it sorted out, I might switch the thread to the Suburban. Maybe a let's see just how cheap I can get by kind of thing. Anyone that knows where I can source the camshaft actuator wiring housing or how to make that repair, let me know. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Feb 27, 2023 |
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Feb 27, 2023 23:43
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$370 from Rock Auto and Amazon and a $12 plastic piece for the headlight surround from Pull a part and Old Blue is fixed.20230226_180305    I think I am going to show it a little more love by cleaning up the interior, painting the dash, new passenger side seat cover, redoing the headliner, etc. I really cannot believe they were going to total this. I did have maybe 6 hours labor and the bumper isn't perfect but it looks okay from 20 feet. Need to get the badge for it. Those get snapped up too quick at the yards. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 6, 2023 |
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Mar 6, 2023 02:57
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STR posted:Oh man. I almost jumped on the GMT train instead of the Lexry train, and honestly, still kinda wish I'd jumped on the GMT train - but they wanted an obscene amount of money for a GMT800 with 200k+ miles, so the Lexus won. Yeah, Lexus is a nicer vehicle, but a GMT800 is drat near bulletproof. She is on her third transmission at 267K miles, so there is that. Meanwhile my daughter's Lexus RX350 has over 300K and worst thing I have swapped on it was an oil filter housing. I had a 1996 LS400 that I ran over some bailing wire that fell off a truck at night on the interstate and sliced through half of its engine wiring harness and it still got me 30 miles home. Big fan of the GM platform and Lexus brand across all models.
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Mar 6, 2023 14:14
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I put about 400 miles on the Audi. 90 of which was going to Clarksville TN to get raped by the VW dealership on some electrical connectors and wire repair kits that I just figured I would buy to give me something to do while I was at the lake. Sunday before last my wife's 2017 Cadillac XT5 had a failure of the thermostat, which apparently is a deal on those cars. She was in Nashville but the thermostat was stuck open so I had her take it to Paris TN to the GM dealership there who was able to fix it under warranty, but it took a few days to get the parts. I can work from up there, so no issues but wintertime on KY lake when the temps are down is pretty boring so I decided to go to Clarksville and get a wire for the actuator that had crumbled and a new MAF wire.  20230307_221138 Good news is these things fixed all codes except my lingering Ebrake code. Bad news is I had a new code about low pressure at the fuel rail. WTF?  20230307_150410 How the hell did that happen?  20230307_160503As you can see, one of the bolts to the cam shaft follower housing sheared. Pain in the rear end to take out as I had to take the housing out. Anyway, I got it all back together, albeit without using triple square bolts so I will need to replace those. But now the three screws which are a bitch to get out from the back of the HPFP have wallowed out from their purchase in the aluminum head and blocks, so it does not seal well, dumping a mix of gas and oil out the back. I've got to order new seals and figure out a way to be able to torque those bolts down, so open to suggestions. I assume simple thread lock wouldn't do much for me? Here is an ebay image of what I am dealing with (unit is upside down).  The three holes are for some long thin torx bolt/screws, those are what I am trying to get in to "stick" a part number for these would be helpful as well. Backed to cursed Audi mode! EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Mar 13, 2023 |
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Mar 13, 2023 22:30
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So, I was able to use a combination of a dewalt angle bit attachemnt and a stubby hex shank 1/4" bit to drill out the aluminum and sneak the helicoils in, just barely enough room. No leaks and everything is holding up good engine wise.  20230408_104537 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrBUT, there is a new issue with two codes on the transmission. The car said it lost the Reverse gear, but I could keep driving it. Reverse starts when I first start the car and then claps out. Drive is not much better. My codes are as follows: P085000 Park Neutral Switch Input Circuit (From engine control module) P270300 Transmission Friction Element D Apply Time Range Performance (From Trans Control Module) It definitely puked some trans fluid when I put the trans cooler back in, so I am thinking I will change out the fluid, filter, etc. to make sure I have enough in it. Other than that, it is still throwing a code P11A400 Cam Shift Acuator "B" Cylinder 1 Range Performance, which I think might be my janky wiring job. I feel I am so close with this car. In the meantime, I finished the headliner, dash and interior and refresh on the Suburban, Pics coming on that.
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Apr 10, 2023 03:10
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Interrupting the ungrateful Audi issues to weigh in on one of ‘Merica’s finest. So the first thing I want to tell you about headliner work is buy one of these:  20230401_181409 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrI stripped the two part headliner in about an hour with this attached to my Makita 18V drill, had to recharge about 3 times. Next, don’t do like I did and pull up part of the fiberglass headliner with the old fabric like this:  20230401_095556 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrThis caused my leading edge by the windshield to be less than optimal and hang down a bit. Hoping I can fix it a little later once I think on it. Pic of nastiness, stuff gets everywhere:  20230401_102906 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrItems used in the refresh:  20230329_185409 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrHalfway through the stripping of the old headliner:  20230401_103737 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrHeadliner up:  20230402_160505 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/197714442@N06/, on FlickrI need to take some more after pics to show the dash and steering wheel airbag cover respray.
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Apr 10, 2023 03:44
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[url]https://www.acehardware .com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/bit-extensions/2466449[/url] Be aware you aren't supposed to drill with it per thr packaging but I got it to work. I bought a cheaper Dewalt version that does drill and is more compact, but it was broken out of the box. I wouldn't use this setup on anything harder than aluminum. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Apr 10, 2023 |
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Apr 10, 2023 17:09
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Finished the filter and trans fluid change. There was only about a quart of fluid in the trans. Car moves and shifts great now! Still has a slight coolant leak from somewhere and a couple of other codes, but things are looking up. Heopefully can get everything sorted tomorrow. On the Suburban front, the A/C compressor is coming monday. Hat tip to the A/C thread which tells me the clutch was out. I am just replacing the whole thing.
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Apr 23, 2023 02:45
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Rode around for about 45 minutes. Stumbles a bit when cold but once it warmed up everything was fine. Here are the remaining codes, the actuator code is the most persistent: P217700 system too lean off idle bank 1 P050699 idle control system rpm lower than expected P218700 system too lean at idle bank1 P11a400 cam shift actuator 'B' cylinder 1 range performance I had a bad connecter on the first actuator towards the front of the engine. It's a 2 wire connecter, wonder if polarity matters? I thought I hookedbitbup both ways. Thoughts? Pretty pumped I didn't fry the 6 speed. I'm borrowing a lift when I do this on my 2012 Avant.
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Apr 23, 2023 23:47
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STR posted:Are you sure it's just a + and - wire in that connector, and not a + and signal wire? The actuator may be grounding through the engine instead of that connector. But I bet all of the other codes are related to the cam actuator not working for one reason or another. That makes sense and I bet you are right. The Erwin wiring diagram is tough to sled through in adobe, and I guess if I have them reversed it would be even more likely to throw a code. I long for a real Bentley manual like with my 540i. Oh well, going to be a couple of weeks before I get back up there. Edit for found this in Audizine for someone with a similar problem: "Each actuator is just a simple 2 pin, pin 2 to 12v, pin 1 to the ECU which grounds it when it wants to activate the actuator. That 12v source is shared with a variety of devices on the engine." EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Apr 25, 2023 |
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Apr 25, 2023 02:50
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Y'all need some 'burban love. And I (few beers in) am here to 'blige. 20230417_182604 AC works good now.  20230430_145939 Got a check engine light because I tried to detail the engine while waiting for parts. (Its fiine once I get it on the highway.) Otherwise, good as it ever was in 2002 when I bought it. Back to Audi sheeet next week, promise. Just need to change out cam actuartor for cylinder 1 once I get to the lake. Meanwhile, this thread can go one of two directions: 1)1998 BMW 540i I bought 14 years ago for my then 16 year old with 180k miles OR 2) some Copart SUV (chick car) Audi with a 2.0 I can buy for my youngest for graduation (I swear I will get her something good if it is not perfect in a year when she actually graduates.) Talk about bad decisions. The 2 people follwing me (and my wife) know I am going to DO BOTH anyway. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 03:09 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 03:07
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