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Hell yeah, cheers
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May 29, 2023 23:47
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Dr Rocksalt posted:New battery didn't do anything, despite my enthusiasm. Goodbye $220, but that battery had probably seen enough abuse anyway. I'm guessing the one that looks like it took a direct hit to the sensor is the old busted one.
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May 30, 2023 00:12
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It obviously had built in self clearancing air gap technology
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May 30, 2023 00:36
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Love it when it's just a sensor lol, glad you got it sorted, get a video of it running would love to hear it.
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May 30, 2023 01:25
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Wow! That would do it 
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May 30, 2023 08:53
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I seem to remember last year when we installed EDIS, we had that whoops where the sensor met the crank tooth wheel, but there was still the magnet in there, albeit clearanced. I'll bet when we took it off the old engine it fell out or got knocked enough to stick to something else. I took it out for a spin last night, and it at least drove, stopped, and shifted gears (a huge relief after the trans rebuild). So far it's not puking any fluids on the garage floor, so that's a win. Plenty of other weirdnesses popped up though. One is the tuning. I had autotune on for a bit of the drive, and the AFR just pegged at dead lean, so it kept trying to bump up the fuel. It started sounding and feeling like it was missing, so I pulled the plugs after. Here are what the drivers side and one passenger plug looked like:  Yeah, just a touch rich, there Microsquirt. But then here is what three passenger side plugs looked like:  And gee whiz, the wideband sensor is on the passenger side. HMMMM. Guess I have three dead injectors? But man that's a bummer, both to fix, and because I'd cleaned and flow checked these before I put them in. At least I have a few spares that are also "cleaned" and "checked." Other issues: - Brakes seemed to be getting mushy already. Maybe from dragging them too much to not speed, but hopefully not from something I messed up in the hub replacement. - Steering wheel connection flaked out twice. - I think some issues with float precision and calculation are making some sensor readings look terrible. Maybe poke around code when I have a second on lunch break today. - Still no coolant pressure reading, which I think is the sender's fault. One is on the way from Amazon, but got delayed.
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May 30, 2023 15:30
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Maybe a harness issue? One broken wire could easily kill power to 3 injectors
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May 30, 2023 18:19
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kastein posted:Maybe a harness issue? One broken wire could easily kill power to 3 injectors Possible I guess but I think you'd notice it only running on half the cylinders. Still seems more likely than 3 dead injectors on one bank, though.
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May 30, 2023 18:42
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Suburban Dad posted:Possible I guess but I think you'd notice it only running on half the cylinders. Still seems more likely than 3 dead injectors on one bank, though. This is what has me stumped. Wiring issue would kill all on one bank, and I checked for voltage last night. You would have thought I would have felt it running on 5 cylinders, too.
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May 30, 2023 18:59
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Clogged injector rail ? It may have supplied enough for idle but not under throttle.
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May 30, 2023 19:14
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Doing some shake down this evening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2M3UMAaBRc
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May 31, 2023 05:45
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Car is running like absolute dogshit, and it’s rainy as hell, but at least we’re doing laps. Hard not to get incredibly discouraged after all the long nights working on it.
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Jun 3, 2023 20:55
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Finished yesterday’s session running like garbage, and decided to put the carb system back on. Got it all installed and the car screams, so we will just send it today.
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Jun 4, 2023 13:22
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Good luck! Post pics when you can.
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Jun 4, 2023 16:11
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honda whisperer posted:Good luck! Post pics when you can.   Appropriate rainbow for pride month. Car went out, and turned some of the best laps it ever has. One of our faster driver was just screaming... until the trans blew out its front seal and puked everywhere. It was at 11 am today and the race ended at 3. There was no chance we could get it out and fix it, especially with trying to find parts, so we had to pack it up. Not the end of the weekend I was hoping for. By the time I got home and unloaded I was absolutely soaked. All my gear, tools, bedding, etc are just waterlogged. I think I have a theory on why the EFI was running so poor. First, from the look of some plugs I suspect an injector may have been leaking. But second, we saw this behavior: it would go out for a bit and kind of run okay-ish. But the duty cycle on the injectors was insanely high (at or above 100%). Then it would slowly go more and more lean, until it would just run horribly and the AFR was pegged full lean. I'm guessing either the injectors were failing at high duty cycles and heat, or maybe the Microsquirt drivers were. I'm hoping it's just the injectors being mad. In any event, there are some plug-and-play high flow injectors from an RX-7 that would work, if we decide to try this approach again. IF. Tons of other problems popped up, but so it goes on racing. I'll fix those and get back out there. I'll probably take a few days off of working on this to play with some other things and clean the hell out of my garage. Dr Rocksalt fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Jun 5, 2023 |
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Jun 5, 2023 04:57
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Did you have adequate rail pressure? It's weird as hell one bank good one bank bad.
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Jun 8, 2023 04:06
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I had a bad pull-up/pulldown or filtering on my second injector channel on my original MS1V3 and it'd do that same thing. It'd oscillate and sometimes "latch." I did replace all of the parts and it went away, but just wiring to run the first channel in batch fire got me around for years.
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Jun 12, 2023 05:20
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Wrar posted:Did you have adequate rail pressure? It's weird as hell one bank good one bank bad. There are crossover tubes between the rails; one front one back. I installed a pressure sender on one before the race, and it seemed reasonable. DJ Commie posted:I had a bad pull-up/pulldown or filtering on my second injector channel on my original MS1V3 and it'd do that same thing. It'd oscillate and sometimes "latch." This is one of the Microsquirt units that you don't stuff yourself, so I would have hoped that it wouldn't have that issue. But that's a good idea to check. Use a noid light or LED or something. I may go ahead and just bite the bullet on trusted higher flow injectors. Despite saying I was going to work on other stuff for a while, I don't think the race schedule will allow that. I got the trans 99% of the way ready to come out last week, but lost the weekend to taking kids to see grandparents. With any luck I'll get it out this evening. There are also a bunch of small things I'm tackling as well. For instance my CANTBUS system hit a few hiccups, and I'm pretty sure it was from using the killswitch but the fan and fuel pump had run-on due to back-feeding. I'll be adding beefy diodes to help with that. Additionally switching to the style of killswitch that grounds out (through a resistor) the stored voltage, which helps eliminate alternator voltage spikes with key off. A few status diodes stopped working (worryingly related to the above?), so swapping those out as well. And then ... getting it back running on EFI. Oh, another thing I'd like expert opinions on is the rear diff in this car. It's still the stock Volvo unit, which is a 1041 for a 940. It has okay gearing (4.10 I think), but with this trans you barely use 4th. A way shorter gear would help on track, and despite it being road legal, I'm not exactly about RPM at 75 mph. But getting an aftermarket ring and pinion is basically impossible for this version. It also has a G80 locker, which is basically unlocked over 25 mph or something, and you sure can tell that on sweeping high speed turns. It spins the inner tire hard. Other versions of this gen Volvo came with a 1030 or 1031, which is way more similar to a Dana 30, and you can actually get aftermarket ring and pinion sets, and decent TrueTrac LSDs. A junkyard local has an 89 740 that I could grab the rear out of, and it should be a 1030 or 1031 (I'd prefer 1031 for strength). I THINK it's a drop in replacement for a 940, but if anyone knows otherwise, let me know. This wouldn't be cheap, and is definitely well into the realm of "not worth it" but I'm still tempted. The other option is a Ford 8.8, but the offset pinion would mean swapping axles and tubes, then a poo poo load of custom fab for mounting, which is why I was leaning for the 740 option.
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Jun 14, 2023 01:20
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Trans came out without a fuss and without lifting the car any more. Holy poo poo the front seal and torque converter bushing are roasted:  Worse, I'm pretty sure the converter snout is beyond saving:  So that's fun. I wanted to make more progress, but I need to order parts, source a TC, and sleep.
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Jun 14, 2023 04:43
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That looks like alignment was bad enough that I have to ask, do you have both bellhousing to block alignment dowels? For the rear axle, consider a 97-01 Jeep XJ rear 8.25. the Dana 35 that came in some of them is garbage but the 8.25 is fairly solid. Not 8.8 solid but solid. Pinion is roughly centered, may actually be perfectly centered I'm not sure, 5x4.5 pattern, you can disc brake them with Jeep liberty KJ parts, or even use a KJ rear if you're coil spring anyways.
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Jun 14, 2023 07:07
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kastein posted:That looks like alignment was bad enough that I have to ask, do you have both bellhousing to block alignment dowels? I could have sworn there were dowels in there but my god, I’m now doubting it. That’s a gigantic fuckup on my part if not. Being dumb is expensive. After more rabbit hole delving, it looks like maaaaybe the 1041 can use 1031 parts. My hesitancy now is if I get it yanked apart and then find out it won’t work and then have an unfixable mistake on my hands with no time left. Having a new diff to assemble and get slapped in when it’s working was appealing.
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Jun 14, 2023 15:54
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Welp, kastein, next time you’re in Colorado I’m buying you all the beer you want. Sure enough, dowels were still chilling in the old engine; none in the new. I feel utterly idiotic and am kicking the poo poo out of myself. Very dumb mistake, but it’s almost a relief to know why it happened, rather than an unknown failure. Right now I’m just waiting on parts to arrive for the trans, so I’m tackling other small stuff, like the bypass style killswitch. Also trying to catch up on stuff I’d back-burnered the last few weeks because of the frantic scramble.
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Jun 15, 2023 15:41
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Oh no. My condolences. Wish I'd thought to bug you on the way by because I spent all day in Denver last Tuesday. You are far from the first person to make that mistake and I'm sure won't be the last either.
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Jun 16, 2023 04:04
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you could always just mod the g80 to save time and upgrade the entire axle it after you destroy itturbobricks posted:there is a speed governor that keeps the locker from engageing above 20mph soo all i have to do is mod that. There is a weight inside the carrier that is about 1 1/2 long and about 1 1/2 inches wide. It slings out past 20 mph and keeps the locker from activating. I busted out the grinder and decided to reduce the weight so it would swing out at a higher speed. The real trick is to keep all the particles out of the rest of the diff or it might wear out very quickly. Also I had to use a grinder with carbon disks because the weight is HARDEND Steel. I removed about 15-20 percent of it and tried to remove the weight as far away from the pivot as possiable so the removed weight would be more affective.
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Jun 18, 2023 01:23
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This popped up for sale on and I was trying my damndest to buy it. I'd set up an appointment on my day off, but sadly before I could get there the seller told me "person here with cash, sorry." Good news though is that later a person in the Lemons Colorado facebook group posted pics, saying he'd bought it and will race it. I obviously don't need more projects, but it would have been fun. They share a ton of parts with an FB RX-7, so one could make it handle and stop really easy with aftermarket support. This was definitely a highlight of my weekend:  Trans is back in and seems to be working. Didn't barf oil immediately, shifted through all gears, no awful noises, etc. The rear seal was also leaking during the last race, so I replaced that with the actual part number and so far I haven't seen drips (though it's been only an hour after the test drive). There were a lot of points getting to this that fought me, like how the rebuilt torque converter had obviously been dropped on its snout and didn't want to seat all the way. I got it there though. While waiting for parts shipping I also took care of a lot of other stuff. New LEDs for breaker status and switch status were retina searingly bright after I installed them, so I had to solder in some resistors to bring them down to tolerable. Before:  After:  Bighuge diodes for the fan are installed to help with run on, and the bypass killswitch is in and working. New wideband sensor, since the last one failed during the race. My coparent let me know that the girls got quite sick on a road trip they went on, and were still sick today. That was a pretty huge bummer, not getting to do Father's Day stuff with them. I consoled myself by taking a ride on the Triumph both days this weekend, which felt drat good. My confidence on a bike has been pretty low after not riding for a long time, so it's been good to take some easy trips to get my sea legs back under me.
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Jun 19, 2023 02:38
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 Yay construction season. At least it was patchable. The Volvo is adapted to a BMW wheel bolt pattern for … reasons? I can’t remember the history there to be honest, but one is that wheel options suck in the original Volvo pattern, especially with the gross offset they run. For the last few races we’ve had mismatched wheels thanks to junkyard rims ending up bent, Craigslist sellers having “not noticed” one was cracked, etc. A set popped up in CL last week that work for our offset, so our best haggler snagged them for cheap. Test fit just to make sure:  The clear coat is cracked and yellowing, which is fine because they’ll get painted anyway. Painted gold. Because I’m an immature rear end. Other weirdness: I get along with my coparent’s family amazingly, still. Her brother raced with us last year, in fact, when we fielded two cars. Her mom emailed to let me know she’d found some cute clothes for the girls, and to let me know if there were other things they needed (an extremely kind thing). I joked they needed a limited slip and new ring and pinion for this rear diff, and gee whiz, next email is “okay, should be there soon. Drive fast!” Utterly awesome. For reference, my coparent’s mom has a 911 Turbo, SRT-10 truck, and is generally incredibly into cars. So despite swapping to an 8.8 being the smarter thing, looks like this Volvo rear will get short gears and an LSD. To not risk having the car immobile, I snuck to a junkyard and snagged a 1041 (same as ours) out of a 740 so I can build the new one on the bench without as much risk. Now to teach myself how to set gear spacing and read tea leaves of paint marks…
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Jun 23, 2023 22:19
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Work exploded on me this week, so progress was slow otherwise. But I took care of a few programming deals: Modified the dash panel code to indicate left and right turn signal status since for street driving you can’t hear the relay click. We weren’t using the 4G so those those lights were unused anyway. Modified code to make an unused switch on the dash panel dim the brightness of the steering wheel and dash lights, since they are WAY too bright for night driving during our next full 24 hour race. Another oddity: I’ve been noticing random lack of shift from the steering wheel, even though the rpm and speed still updates. Long ago I had coded in a simple counter in the steering program to allow other cards to know if they’ve lost coms with steering. For example if the transmission card knows the steering wheel is disconnected, it goes into automatic shifting mode. The counter just goes from zero to 32,000, then resets to zero at like 50 ms intervals. Other cards just watch to make sure it’s changed in the last second. My worry was that it’s a random glitch due to power spikes or drops, but last night during debug, it looked like it happened at the same counter values over and over. Which is good news if it’s not random, and an awesome puzzle I’ll get to figure out. That’s not sarcasm, I’m actually excited to dive in.
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Jun 23, 2023 23:13
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I have just about all the parts to reassemble the rear end. It’s a little unnerving, since I’m flying a little blind. This rear is sort of a Dana 30, and sort of custom Volvo. Many folks re-gear Dana 30s, so lots of guides there, and some folks put TrueTracs in Volvos, but the combination of both doesn’t have a lot of info out there. I’ve made a setup bearing race for the rear pinion and will do the same for the carrier after I snag some spares tonight. Unfortunately I messed up the bearing surface on the old locker getting stuff off so I guess I can’t sell that, dammit. I found the reason for the occasional steering disconnects. Long, boring explanation, but basically if a byte was sent of the right value (for example the same byte code that means “what is your board id”), it could kick the receiver card out of receive info mode because I hadn’t coded in a “stay in receive mode until the entire send is done” check. I put one in and it looks to have solved it.
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Jun 29, 2023 21:13
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 Alright, looking good. I messed up the shims on the carrier when I was getting that bearing race off, and the included ones in the Dana 30 kit won't work, since the chamfer on the carrier won't let them seat all the way:  Of course these aren't a parts store or even RockAuto part. I've had to order a few things from Volvo, but I need a variety to set backlash, so I just measured the old ones and ordered a smattering from McMaster. I could at least use the old shims to try to set it up, even though I don't trust them in the long run with the cuts and such. So I made some setup bearings and races where needed, as well as a setup nut, and put things kind of together. I ran a pattern, but the marking compound in this kit is utter garbage. More of that is on the way.   To my utterly untrained eye that kind of looks okay or maybe could stand to go in a tiny bit? I ordered better compound to aid. The same story applies to the shim that would go here, so also ordered from McMaster. Backlash on the ring was borderline on the high side of spec. I desperately wanted to have this done this weekend, but sadly that won't happen, so I guess I need to work on other stuff. Time to scrub wheels to paint, scrape RTV off intake parts, and scrub ATF from the underside of the car after the trans failure during the race. YAY!
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Jul 2, 2023 16:04
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I really can't tell anything from that pattern, I'd leave it alone till your good marking compound arrives. The shim issue is actually a common thing in Dana Spicer land IIRC, many of their shims are like that and rely on the press fit bearings to push them up into the corner. Carl Jantz from Jantz Engineering talks about it a bit in one of his gear setup videos IIRC.
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Jul 2, 2023 19:45
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While waiting for parts to arrive (thanks for wrong parts, RockAuto) I’m switching gears. Those new wheels are from a BMW 3 series. The clear coat is cracked and yellow. I’d figured I’d just scotch brite over before spraying wheel paint, but now I’m worried it’ll look like butt. If anybody has any great suggestions I’m all ears. Permatex paint stripper? I also need to get off my rear end and scrape the rtv off of all the drat intake pieces. Not looking forward to that.
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Jul 5, 2023 22:49
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Aircraft stripper. A couple rounds of that and then clean them really well and paint/powdercoat them whatever you want. Wear gloves. And probably sleeves. And not shorts. That poo poo burns if it touches your skin.
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Jul 6, 2023 02:20
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Suburban Dad posted:Aircraft stripper. A couple rounds of that and then clean them really well and paint/powdercoat them whatever you want. Right on, took your suggestion and grabbed some. Plus it sounds like I can use the leftover to get rid of a few bad tattoos! Shouldn’t be surprised, but I just checked the driveshaft center bearing, and the rubber mount is wrecked. drat, it’s almost like repeatedly endurance racing a high mileage car is hard on stuff.
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Jul 6, 2023 03:29
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Dr Rocksalt posted:Right on, took your suggestion and grabbed some. Plus it sounds like I can use the leftover to get rid of a few bad tattoos! You were warned.
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Jul 6, 2023 15:49
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Progress is a little slow as I was shipped to the east coast for work. The rental car company gave me an EV6, which was kind of neat. My first interaction with driving an EV more than just around a parking lot. It has me wanting an EV of some sort, admittedly. Miata high-z injectors at 445 cc/min installed in the UZ intake. Snug, but fit. Connectors are swapped over:  The tone ring for the speed sensor is on the carrier, so I welded one on to the LSD:  I think I have backlash set, here’s the gear pattern I came out with:  Seems kind of okay. I started installing poo poo for real, but got mad trying to set the preload with the crush sleeve eliminator. One other annoying deal is that it seems like this ring gear hits a little dingus on the inside of the diff cover so I’ll need to do some modification there. I swapped that carrier bearing on the driveshaft. It was real nasty. After infinite scraping and many coats of that stripper, the wheels looked like utterly garbage. I’d been fighting it so long I just gave up and dropped them to be media blasted and powder coated. Stupid waste of money and all, but I just needed a thing off my plate.
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Jul 13, 2023 18:50
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Dr Rocksalt posted:After infinite scraping and many coats of that stripper, the wheels looked like utterly garbage. I’d been fighting it so long I just gave up and dropped them to be media blasted and powder coated. Stupid waste of money and all, but I just needed a thing off my plate. drat, sorry it didn't work out. That stuff usually just makes paint bubble right off after about 2 coats. 
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Jul 13, 2023 19:32
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Suburban Dad posted:drat, sorry it didn't work out. That stuff usually just makes paint bubble right off after about 2 coats. Nah, don’t apologize. Once I dug into them after one strip attempt, it seems like the reason for the yellowing and cracked clear coat is that they had been resprayed after some curb rash filling, so I suspect it was the combination of all kinds of paint / spray / bondo over the years. It’s a bummer to have rashed wheels coated, but like I said, I just needed this project to be off my radar. The local company I used is this cool guy that races at the same track we do. He had some leftover brass / bronze metallic flake some company bought way too much of. Tiny hope I snag a discount from that…
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Jul 13, 2023 21:09
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Wheels done, tires mounted. Pretty happy with the look: 
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Jul 18, 2023 23:38
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Those look amazing.
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Jul 19, 2023 00:35
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Just fantastic. Bet that will be fun.
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Jul 19, 2023 01:09
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