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Dr Rocksalt posted:Wheels done, tires mounted. Pretty happy with the look: fully sik m8 Maybe it's just the lighting, but the photo with the tires mounted looks like one of them has a bulge in the tread?
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Jul 19, 2023 02:23
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Left Ventricle posted:fully sik m8 I think I might see what you’re talking about. I went out to check and they seem fine, but I’ll give them a close eye when I get them on. Last night was fairly productive after a tool arrived. I got the pinion preload set, rechecked backlash, and rechecked gear pattern. All good. Axles went back in as well. My only concern is that the pinion preload spec is about 20 to 30 inch-pounds (when using new bearings), which feels really hard to spin compared to what I was expecting. I triple checked, googled, and gave everything a good inspection, and no red flags. Guess I’ll just send it since it’s in spec. Dana 30s (which this is a cousin of) run like 15 to 20, but I was just surprised how tight it felt compared to what I expected. I was using a crush sleeve eliminator, and slowly worked down from bearings not even seated to this. Preload shot up from basically none to 20 inch pounds Next issue: the diff cover has this funny little built in metal filter screen. Oil splashes up the back from the ring gear and some goes down through this riveted in screen. Unfortunately with this ring set that was slightly in the way, so it had to go. I just couldn’t find a solution to keep it. My dumb rear end didn’t get a picture. I’m painting the diff cover gold, then I’ll seal it up and get this thing installed.
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Jul 19, 2023 18:24
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Rear buttoned up and reinstalled: And then it actually moved without exploding.  Took it for a test drive and it’s certainly more spunky than before. Burnouts are definitely doable. There is gear whine, and the diff got toasty, but it probably needs to run in a bit more. We timed some zero to sixty pulls to get a baseline for going back to EFI. Today I went up to where my Raider is stored and put some hours into that. We got it running and put the new wheels and tires on, which felt rewarding.  The old carb was a heinous mess of vacuum lines and eighties computer control, so we swapped it for a Weber 32/36 that used to power the Starlet.  And then it ran well enough to partake in the world’s shortest hill climb.   
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Jul 23, 2023 05:33
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Holy poo poo, it's weird seeing a Raider. Those things are so rare now.
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Jul 23, 2023 05:50
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That Raider looks like fun, post more about that too! Also the wheels turned out great, nice job.
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Jul 23, 2023 18:29
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That fuel line kink is triggering me..
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Jul 24, 2023 04:17
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randomidiot posted:That fuel line kink is triggering me.. That just runs to evap. My race team friend has it at his place and had done that, and it was bugging me too. Trying to get things looking stock enough with the new carb to get through emissions, if they even care to look under the hood. Applebees Appetizer posted:That Raider looks like fun, post more about that too! The Raider is a Mitsubishi Pajero, rebranded as “imported for Dodge.” It has the 4G54 (aka G54B), which is apparently known for ruining head gaskets, which is exactly what happened to this one. It has a cool inclinometer and an air ride seat, which is cool as heck. It’s leaking oil and rough all around, but I like it all the same. I also took a much needed motorcycle ride this weekend, despite the heat. 
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Jul 24, 2023 16:24
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As painful as it was to tear apart a running car, we swapped back to EFI last night, using the new higher flowing injectors.  Put the flow value into TunerStudio, made an auto-generated map, and it fired up immediately. I ran out of steam to get the throttle cable hooked back up, but otherwise it’s just time to do a ton of tuning and see if I can get it running better than on carbs. Realistically it’s probably dumb switching to EFI, but I have a bit of sunk cost fallacy going. I’m confident that this car is quick enough to win Class C, if only we can make it reliable enough to stay on track. To that end I need to put lots of miles on it and see what happens. I think my team mates are going to a track day next week with it, though my PTO is so shot I’ll have to sit it out.
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Jul 27, 2023 16:03
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The 32/36 is the best choice on earth for any sort of carbied nugget. What's the preferred source for them over in seppolandia?
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Jul 27, 2023 16:45
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big dong wanter posted:The 32/36 is the best choice on earth for any sort of carbied nugget. What's the preferred source for them over in seppolandia? I can’t even remember where I found this to try on the Starlet. eBay maybe? On Friday night I got the throttle cable all set up, and took it out to do some tuning. Using auto tune on TunerStudio I was able to get good AFRs in as much of the map as I could with street driving. The duty cycle is in a good range. With the new rear end and the transmission mods, the car is “spirited.” It will chirp tires on shift at wide open. It needs a ton of work on acceleration enrichment, predictably, since you’re suddenly giving the engine ALL the air. The other major issue is the throttles stick when returning to closed. When off the lower intake they’re fine, but as you start tightening them down, there are enough changes in gaskets that they start binding. Then temp changes really make it worse. It’s drat near a deal breaker. I had these single long throttle shafts made, and it pains me to say it, but I think the solution is to cut them, and then use a shaft coupling that tolerates misalignment. Something like these split couplings or maybe the flex joint style. I fear a u-joint won’t quite resolve it. Fitment will be very tight, and like I say, cutting $$$ custom pieces sucks. Of course so would having a throttle stick.
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Jul 31, 2023 17:46
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The other part of this weekend was working on the Raider and taking it on its maiden voyage. Saturday it was running well enough to go fuel it up. But after the starter wouldn’t turn, though fixed with some hammer taps. Then it died leaving the parking lot, and starter wouldn’t even spin with hammer help. The stock fuel filter is a clear one, and we could see zero fuel going through. A short jog to Napa and an insanely overpriced electric pump (and hookup wire) later, we managed to get fuel to the carb, and could push start it. It died a few more times on I70 in mountain traffic, which was exciting. Fun to push start something on an interstate. I did a parts run and snagged a new starter and filter, then installed everything. Spins over great. Hooray. Also starts and run great with the new filter. One small problem was the hat for the Weber cracked where the filter stud screws in, and that piece was MIA.  I took off the intake to look for it, but zero sign of it in the intake or on the top of the valves. Here’s hoping that cheap casting is weaker than the engine. Test drive is great, restarts no problem, all seems right in the world, and I went to sleep thinking things are all set for the trail the next day.
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Jul 31, 2023 17:59
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Our gang of misfits for the trip: Suzuki Grand Vitara, acquired for $300 because of a “blown trans or ruined clutch.” Turns out the transfer case was in neutral. Daihatsu Rocky, rad as hell. Friend of a friend’s Land Rover, and the Dodge Raider, the problem child. Guess I’ll spoil the plot and reveal we made it to the summit:  The raider runs great up into the start of the trail. Things are awesome. Then it dies, and can’t restart. Same fuel issue as before, and thankfully I have the overpriced fuel pump from before. I put it in the path with the stock fuel pump and regulator, and get it fired back up. It died a few more times like this, but was able to get going each time, once just removing the stick fuel filter from the line and relying on the e-pump filter it came with. I need to ponder long term how I want to deal with that. The other hiccup was that the idler arm bushing decided thirty-some years was plenty of time on the job and decided to depart at about the halfway point. This made a super fun clack over every bump.  At our lunch break, I took some spare hose, and trimmed it enough to shove it in there to at least shut it up for a while. It lasted the whole trip!   Temp tags are drat near expired, so I need to get through emissions, or at least get a failed result and go back to the DMV and get another extension. During the trip yesterday it started puffing smoke real bad, so there’s no chance I’ll pass. Also when my buddy was fabbing the exhaust, he got the cat in but no room for the muffler, thanks to the long tube header. It’s a buzzy, loud drone that will also probably fail me. Or I just let the tags expire and eat the fee later when I get it squared away.
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Jul 31, 2023 18:20
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 (timestamp 2:58)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1p5hBhEJ9vs
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Aug 2, 2023 01:26
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Left Ventricle posted:
Aww hell yeah. I'm glad our carb idiocy has cemented us in Lemons lore. Realistically there aren't that many mission critical items I need to hammer out. The main one is the sticky throttle, and I ordered a variety of misalignment couplers to choose from. One other item I haven't even touched yet is that for this 24 hour race we need to have our vehicle numbers lit up. This could be as simple as a well-placed flashlight, but I certainly want to make sure whatever our solution is doesn't fail tech or fail in the middle of the race. Mostly it just needs lots more time driving for tuning and reliability checks. I should make a protective cover (and maybe a passenger foot rest) for the electronics box if it rains as much as it did last race. Then there is medium priority stuff that is more optional: The coolant sensor for the driver display (separate from the one the Megasquirt uses) has to come out when switching to carbs, and when we did this at the track it got lost, apparently. So either I buy another or put in one from the old engine, which would mean splicing on a different connector, which I'm a little less enthused. Then again I need to be saving pennies right now. The coolant pressure sensor also failed. That is quite low on the priority list. The fuel pressure sender also didn't fit back in due to slight alignment changes with the new injectors, but that is similarly low priority. Lastly is the zero priority list; stuff that just is irksome but of no importance. I'd like to wrap some wiring in the bay in the better looking wrap instead of the corrugated split loom. Pull out those hefty frame weights serving no purpose. Trim some other weight from the car. Make some panels that blank off the old fuel filler flap and missing tail lights. Put new tape on as accent since it looks ratty. As happens before every race, I'm getting dang burned out on working on this, especially with a few team mates tied up with other stuff. Work is sending me to the east coast all of next week, which is going to make getting things done in a hurry impossible. Dr Rocksalt fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Aug 4, 2023 |
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Aug 3, 2023 16:45
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Neon sign lights for the numbers.
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Aug 3, 2023 19:08
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I use a Tesa style tape for main harness runs, I actually have a few widths from Wish and like them a lot better than split loom. Light adhesive and fabric, plus holds shape better than electrical tape. I then use expandable sleeve aka "cable management sleeve" to each pigtail for sensor/output. Edit: then the sleeves get adhesive lined shrink under the Tesa tape and at the connector so they stay nice looking. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Aug 3, 2023 |
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Aug 3, 2023 23:07
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I just lost 14 pounds!  Bumper off, weights out, and bumper back on in an hour.
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Aug 4, 2023 02:04
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Awesome thread! Wish there was an equivalent of the Lemons race in my country. Or an inexpensive way to get one of my shitboxes to the US. Although all of them are below the 82" wheelbase minimum. I'm meeting with a guy this weekend to figure out the reinvigoration of the local racing scene, after the previous guy sadly passed away. I'll pitch a new lemon class, I think it'll do a lot to attract new participants. The new head of a local insurance company used to be involved in rallying, so gonna get his input on the ins and outs of the insurance side of it. Love CANTBUS. Is it open source?
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Aug 4, 2023 17:47
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fins posted:Love CANTBUS. Is it open source? It’s not, at the moment. I have thin skin, much like a new born baby born without skin. I’m a hack of a programmer and worry the internet would rip it to shreds. I knocked out the re-wrapping in the engine bay, which was more work than I’d thought it would be. I re-routed some hoses to clean up the look, particularly on the passenger side.  New coolant sensor and coolant pressure sensor arrived and I slapped those in. The coolant sensor looks like it has a slightly different calibration than the old one. I’ll take some data points and re-plot it at some point to get the beta value.  Then came the scary part. It was time to cut the custom throttle shafts to eliminate binding. I ordered three options:  I didn’t realize how drat large that one type was, so I ruled out using it. I liked how the spiral cut ones felt, plus they’re the most compact, so I opted for those. After shifting the linkage arms as wide as I could, it looked like they’d fit, albeit just barely:  Then took them off, marked, and cut. Installed the flex joint, and then reinstalled with Belleville washers to prevent heat cycle unloading.  (The spring loaded cable on an arm is the line pressure cable. It gets pulled for line pressure max, then the spring takes up the rest of the travel). And just like that the throttle binding is gone and the pedal feels utterly amazing. I need to get it nice and hot to make sure things behave over all temp ranges, but right now I’m optimistic.
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Aug 6, 2023 17:06
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Well that was a fun week of science in New Jersey. At least it got me out of the office and kept me busy for a week. Bonus is that my co-parent's sibling that drew Moosifer that is on both cars and has become our logo has started tattooing, so I hopped up to NYC for my last night and had them blast an awesome Euclid-based piece on my ankle. I got back super late Friday night, and then had to tackle a ton of the normal house stuff that needs done when you're not around for a week. To try to trouble shoot the Raider's fuel delivery, I pulled the sending unit. No smoking gun there, and blew air through all of the hoses. I was hoping to see a clogged pickup basket, but it was fine. I replaced the hoses from the hard line to the sender and used better hose clamps. Before doing that, I blew air through both send and return, from the engine side back. Those are now clear, but nothing obvious came out. Still no smoking gun. I replaced the hoses that I'd hacked up on the trail, and removed the emergency electric pump. The hoses we'd used seemed a little big on the barb, so I used smaller stuff. Before doing that I saw a few drips on the line to the carb, so my hope is a combination of lots of things, but it bothers me not having a smoking gun. In any event it's running, and I took it for several drives. It started right back up after stopping a few places, but the real test will be when it's on an incline like it did on the trail. I also pulled the gauge cluster and removed the "CHECK EGR" bulb, since I couldn't find the rest switch the internet claims is there. Then I gave it a half-assed bath to get some grime off.  It has a loose front turn signal cover, and on further investigation it's because the lower screw backing is snapped off. Bummer; I'll need to source a replacement for that. But while I was in there I got to remove a special wasp treat!  Then Saturday disappeared because a friend needed help putting the bumper back on her Civic and I'm the go-to car fixer, as I'm sure all of us are for our non-car friends. I took the Volvo out this morning for some tuning. Or attempted tuning. It's running well, aside from the high TPSDOT behavior. Also while getting hot it had zero throttle binding, so definitely calling that a win. The drat cheap wideband keeps dropping out. It'll read for a while, then just show full lean for a while, then come back for a bit, then back to nothing. It's an Amazon special I've never been thrilled with. One came with a clearly broken component obviously mis-soldered, hanging off the board, and one had a dead LED. Company replaced those (or was that all on one?) but still.   It's making tuning basically impossible, so I just bought an AEM to be done with it. Should be here Tuesday. The new coolant pressure sensor ~kind of~ works, and I now have enough data points on the replacement coolant sensor to do a new fit to get it accurate. I don't know if I have much more motivation in me tonight, so it may be beer time.
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Aug 14, 2023 01:57
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Forgot the gross pic of the wasp nests in the fender: I was working from home yesterday thanks to summer break or the girls, and got a wild hair to take the Raider through emissions since it seemed reliable enough. Figured it would fail, but at least I could know how bad. On the way there no smoke, running okay. And I let some optimism creep in. It failed, but not due to exhaust note or smoke, but normal hydrocarbons and CO. Unfortunately it then leaves us stranded (thankfully close to home and a nice neighborhood person gave us a ride). I scramble to make the rest of my meetings, and then have to solve a real life fox, duck, and corn riddle of my own, with a pickup, bikes, kids, and a Raider. We got it home, after taking the girls to dinner as a thanks for their patience. Coincidentally, the new AEM wideband arrived, which will let me kill two birds: I can put the old temperamental wideband in the raider to rejet the Weber and get it running better. I took it out of the Volvo and started the install on the AEM. Midway through as I’m routing the new wiring for it, I decide to do a little other wire cleanup, so thoughtlessly decide to pop the alternator feed off. The wrench started rounding the nut, and then jammed hard against the engine block. At this point, amid the sparks, I now realize “hey gee whiz, the battery is connected” and poo poo goes south real fast. Wrench gets HOT, and the engine block to ground wire also starts cooking. I ran to the battery and yank as hard as I can on the ground wires, breaking the terminal.   Battery was then beyond dead, and an overnight charge didn’t make it better. It’s at the shop now getting a load test; at least it’s under warranty. I hope the alternator didn’t also die, even though no current should have gone through it. It was incredibly dumb of me, and I could have burned the car down, or much worse. I’m furious with myself, and it was a wake up call that I need to slow down, be more clear headed about stuff, and just stop focusing on GOAL GOAL GOAL. This thread has seen me make several utterly idiotic mistakes, and I feel the need to say “I swear I’m not always like this!” But let’s be honest…
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Aug 16, 2023 18:53
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Thanks to a team mate coming up, I was able to take the Volvo for a spin after getting the new battery in. Worked more on the base map, and then dialed some more on the accel enrich. It’s actually kind of running pretty good. Few hiccups to tune out, but nothing major. Two of the folks are doing a track day Friday morning. I won’t be able to make it due to a PTO shortage, but I suppose that will be a good test if it holds together well enough to race. I am suddenly very nervous.
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Aug 17, 2023 05:09
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Oh poo poo! Honestly, what this tells me is your alt feed fusible link or fuse is not present or incorrectly sized. It should have blown well before any of that catastrophe got rolling. Typically I see them sized at 125% of alternator rated output.
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Aug 17, 2023 08:43
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Put a fusible link in the wrench 
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Aug 17, 2023 15:29
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Yikes, glad it didn't go too sideways. I have a set of HF plastic clad ratchets that I use when I'm working outside in the winter or if I'm feeling
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Aug 17, 2023 15:41
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At least you didn't burn everything down and that wrench is a cool piece of garage art now.
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Aug 17, 2023 19:14
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If it makes you feel better, I once did something similar in a Miata. Battery is in the trunk in the corner and it's tiny, so a wrench or ratchet can touch both terminals simultaneously without much trouble. Except then there's trouble. It didn't do any damage but scared the poo poo out of me. It was either this or I put the battery in backwards. It has been some years since then.
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Aug 17, 2023 19:22
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Suburban Dad posted:If it makes you feel better, I once did something similar in a Miata. Battery is in the trunk in the corner and it's tiny, so a wrench or ratchet can touch both terminals simultaneously without much trouble. Except then there's trouble. It didn't do any damage but scared the poo poo out of me.
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Aug 17, 2023 20:06
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The Volvo survived its track day and is now back home. From what I gather from the two that took it, we learned some good stuff, the big things here: 1) It got pretty drat hot. Didn't overheat and puke, but got very toasty. A lot of this might be that it was 100 F out at the track, but I'd like to find a way to bring that down a bit. Oil temp sounds like it stayed okay, though. 2) Thermostat housing is weeping. It's plastic, so no shocker. 3) Fuel level sender sounds buggy, and I need to investigate. It's an enclosed style, so I doubt fuel cell foam would have worked in there. 4) Apparently a clunk has started when fast steering one direction to the other. Other than that, no inside parts became outside parts, and the other stuff is just kind of small, which I will mostly call a victory. One big disappointment is that it didn't turn any faster laps with the new rear ratio and LSD, which I was really hoping for. The optimist on our team chalks that up to very worn tires and a very hot track, but I'm skeptical. It's also very, very thirsty. Which isn't a huge surprise, even if alarming. It didn't sound like the AFRs were ever bad like injectors were leaking, so maybe it's just as though a four liter V8 breathing through four throttle bodies at WOT all day, hauling around a heavy station wagon just drinks plenty of fuel. For the Raider, I bought a cheap "heavy duty" muffler from Summit. It's the most compact I could find, which I can hopefully find a way to mangle into place. It also turns out the race team already had a re-jet kit for the Weber, so I saved some money there. It turns out I was wrong, however. It's a 38, not a 32/36. Somehow I got that all messed up over the years.
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Aug 19, 2023 03:51
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I had a hunch about the “getting hot” problem on the Volvo being sensor related, since the oil temp seemed okay. I pulled both sensors (one goes to the Microsquirt, one goes to my electronics), bought an IR temp probe, and suspended them in water for a test. This was fun, since it was an easy Sunday with my daughters, and they had a blast testing everything in the house with the thermometer. Measured temp and resistance as the water got to a boil, and then same as it cooled back down, and then I iced it just for a few more data points. Then I plotted data and fit to a thermistor curve. Here is one with the old fit:  Previously, I’d just used a candy thermometer, since I didn’t have anything else. And then I’d replaced the sensor for the Cantbus so many times (it has to come out for the carb setup to mount and got lost), that I had “cheated” and used the MS sensor reading to calibrate the other. Turns out at high temperature those curves are so flat that tiny differences in resistances add up to giant changes in temp, as shown in the plot. For instance 220 F at the track the other day would be 197 F if you believe this new calibration. That’s more in line with the oil temp, and that calibration came from the manufacturer. If you believe all of this, then the car was doing fantastic, considering it was 100 F ambient temp. I also pulled the thermostat housing that was weeping. Gross.  Unfortunately the spare from the other engine doesn’t inspire a ton of confidence, so a replacement is on the way from autozone. Companies make all metal ones, but I don’t feel like spending that much on one. I pulled the exhaust header on the Raider and welded in the wideband bung. After drilling I realized how hard it would be to weld close to the flange. Whoops. Please be gentle on my very rookie welding skills: 
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Aug 21, 2023 17:31
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Welds look fine but I'm a bit concerned about how you're going to get that flange onto the stud and put the nut on now.
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Aug 21, 2023 22:15
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A problem surely fixed by more welding.
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Aug 22, 2023 04:42
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are those IR non-contact thermometers actually accurate? i thought they made some pretty vague guesses about the emissivity of the surface you're measuring, and also average the light from a pretty wide cone, so you end up measuring your intended surface and everything around it. i would really trust a plain old thermocouple more for this sort of thing, personally. kastein posted:Welds look fine but I'm a bit concerned about how you're going to get that flange onto the stud and put the nut on now.  hopefully it's the kind of flange that rotates freely
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Aug 22, 2023 08:56
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Raluek posted:are those IR non-contact thermometers actually accurate? i thought they made some pretty vague guesses about the emissivity of the surface you're measuring, and also average the light from a pretty wide cone, so you end up measuring your intended surface and everything around it. It looks like OP was measuring the water temperature in the pot so it's a pretty large surface and the emissivity is very high so it's probably "good enough"
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Aug 22, 2023 09:42
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water's 0.95 according to the table i just googled real quick. the last sensor i looked at for work assumed 0.9, for example. idk, is 5% error a big deal for sensor calibration? or some other number, that's just an example, who knows what this unit uses. my point is that unless you're really careful, i would trust them for "about how hot is this" not "calibrate my sensors with it" type tasks
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Aug 22, 2023 10:52
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Water bath is the right way to calibrate but you want to use a RTD or thermocouple as a reference instead. To verify that you borrow a recently calibrated hotwell, verifying the hotwell is the lab's problem.
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Aug 22, 2023 14:00
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Yeah, all valid points, but the emissivity is at least less of an issue than a lovely candy thermometer. Since this was just a hunch about the car getting “hot,” I could verify with a quick trip to Harbor Freight. If I want to go harder on the calibration now that I know it’s the heating issue I can order an RTD reader. Which may be sooner than I thought after the Microsquirt sensor broke last night when reinstalling. Local parts store had a replacement that seems to be marked the same, and readings in cold, medium, and hot water were very close. Yes, the flange spins free; I at least made sure of clocking. Header is back on now, wideband fits well with zero interference issues. Now on to the pain in the as wire routing.  Bonus mechanic friend: 
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Aug 22, 2023 17:19
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Dr Rocksalt posted:
Where's their PPE?
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Aug 22, 2023 20:25
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Humbug Scoolbus posted:Where's their PPE? He's fast enough he can just knock the sparks and metal shavings out of the air before they contact his eyes. Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKzvYzlSBHE
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Aug 22, 2023 22:04
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 18:09 |
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The wideband is now wired and installed. I hated to do it, but the only realistic spot for a mount was on the dash. The parts store only had a chrome bezel, but some flat black took care of that.  Now I just need time to run around in it to get an idea of how to jet it. I find myself procrastinating on the Volvo. The lower grill came off a long time ago for the sake of the power steering cooler, but now that we have an oil cooler as well, I figured I’d at least stick as much of it back on as I could. PS cooler left, oil cooler up and behind.  Then I bit off way more than I could chew by stupidly patching the old gas filler. It’s no longer needed, since it’s now a fuel cell in the back. I cut a piece of thing steel, trimmed, and welded in in. I will not be showing the final product here, because good lord it looks like rear end. Even after grinding and paint.  A while back I drove through some construction in the WRX that sprayed a bunch of white water on me. Try as I might, I couldn’t get it off, so I finally gave up and took it to get detailed. They didn’t get it all off the plastics for fear of fading it, but it at least looks a ton better. After getting to the office:  Despite some gripes about the car, I suppose it’s at least good looking on occasion at least.
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Aug 24, 2023 21:39
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