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blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Having used a home built trailer for the last 15 years, I have a couple of things i would have changed, and can see in yours:

- Blocking off the open tube ends. since water can go into those tubes, I would have liked to seal those off at the initial build so that water doesn't have a chance to get in there.
Water will still go in there, so you do have to put a hole so you can spray under coating in there. I think this goes for any tube that is sealed.
Mine is a utility trailer, so it sits outside, but due to my parking, it sits at an angle sometimes, water builds up and leaks rusty water everywhere.
This will be true on your angled tongue pieces there, as they are sealed in the front and open at the back. I would weld up a couple of square covers there, paint them, drill a small hole for frame coating. Plug with the plastic plugs.
- Cable routing for lights etc
My trailer has trailer brakes, which are just floating goofy wires hanging out of the brake drums. I would run a piece of conduit (pvc) and put the wires in there so they are protected. This would just take welding on a couple tabs to support the conduit.

I haven't done any research into any of these mods for my trailer, so if you know why you shouldn't do any of it , let me know so I don't make the same mistakes


I like your additions, the trailer hitch and the bin holders look great.

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blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Looking great.

I worked on my 20 year old fiberglass trailer this weekend and found that the leading face of the axel was basically bare (and rust) and the rear of it still had paint left.
So I put asphalt undercoating on it after cleaning and painting.
It might be an idea for your trailer, though it wouldn't match with nice gloss finish of what you have now.

Also I bet you won't notice the space between the tires and the frame once you get fenders on there. It will just look like you have wider tires.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/asphalt-undercoating-0477999p.0477999.html?rq=asphalt%20undercoating#srp

Thats what I used, but thats because I had it on the shelf. They also make rubberized stuff if you feel like being able to paint it

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...t1_rr&rrec=true

For the fenders, I welded mine to the frame with a step.
this was so that i could fold them down when I had a car on the trailer - not necessary for you, but might be nice to be able to stand on to get to the roof.
Mine are close to the frame, because a car needed to fit between them, but even if they weren't you would have no idea once the fender is there.




And mounted the lights with a big piece of angle iron.
However, the lights ended up proud of the iron, so they were broken eventually.
also note what happens if you don't have cable routing.



The Camp trailer tires are inside the frame, so of course that isn't much of an example.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
As I was just in my camper this weekend, and am triggered by all the loose wires with no labels:

I use this guy with a permasleeve heat shrink of all wires where they go. Better than writing on tape and permanent.

https://www.amazon.com/Brady-M210-P...140&sr=8-4&th=1

Since I work in industrial, I only messed up with a couple labels saying "+24VDC Feed" instead of the 12 V.

I also have a tonne of DIN rail and dual layer terminals laying around so used those to make the connections, which is a nerd thing to do.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Raised by Hamsters posted:

Hey! They're grouped and labeled! I mean most of them. With masking tape. And cryptic notes. Look, if I self-own on this I'll fess up to it.

Long term when they get trimmed to length I'd actually been planning to use one of those little TZ tape label printers to make a clean solution but it's just occurred to me those are thermal labels and when this isn't in use it's probably going to get stupid hot in there. Might have to find something else. I'm sure that label maker is nice but hard to justify for a one-off like this.

You can get tz heat shrink.
https://www.amazon.ca/Brother-Printable-Shrink-Tubing-0-23In/dp/B00GO7CDEY

i find my fancy brother labeler wastes too much tape, but extra tape is probably cheaper than buying into a new printer system.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Raised by Hamsters posted:

Oh thanks, that looks perfect. Had no idea that was available for those things. Maybe I'll label up my rats nest of network cables too...

And yeah it does waste a lot of tape, I batch print whatever I can when I'm using it.

I have never used the stuff, since I have a brady labeler and find all the cartridges at work, but hopefully they are ok.
Buy 1 first before buying lots.

for network cables, I use the foldover kind, then I don't have to try to slide it over the edges.
I have used normal tz tape, but it ends up looking like garbage as you have to either fold it overitself leaving a tag, or you put it on lengthwise and it just falls off.

https://www.brotherexperts.com/tz-tapes/brother-pro-tape-tze-sl251-self-laminating-tape-black-on-white-24mm.html

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Are you spraying the final coat? If you are rolling, its always going to come out pretty bumpy I think.
Whenever I did body work, I get lazy, run 200 grit on the random orbital, then spray out of a can.
It usually turned out "ok" which is probably not what you are going for.

also the random orbit makes things a lot smoother than by hand, you don't get the scratch lines that are there from the hand sanding.

Im sure its going to look great when you are done though.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Taking a break after a slog/unfun work is necessary, as long as you end up getting back to it. There is a reason my house is filled with half/ 3/4 finished projects. This weekend, I finally installed a light fixture that was the very first part we bought for this house when we bought it, year and a half ago. It involved being in the attic so I didn't want to do it.

Shore power plug with moulded cord is pretty weird, though I guess its a normal 15A plug? I installed a 30A, and it had a rear entry for the cables.
I did have to chop the end off a normal extension cord to put the twist lock plug on it.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Yea, I ended up doing similar for shore power, I have a battery tender hard mounted, which should keep the battery charged and keep it on when we have a few lights on.
I also don't have a nice place to park the trailer, so it sits outside. I made a smart thermostat extension so I can both monitor the temp/humidity from inside the house, and set a temperature to keep it dry.
Last year we moved all the cushions etc inside, and that was a pain in the rear end. Now I pay $2 a day in electricity and keep it dry enough in there that hopefully it won't go moldy.
This may be foreshadowing that it didn't work and I get to replace all the cushions because I didn't want to empty it properly.

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blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
I like that faucet, its the dometic go? I am going to put one of those in when I redo the kitchen cabinet, currently we have the old hand pump style, but since the window has been leaking that cabinet rotted off.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Thanks, turns out I will install a $15 USB (ai word salad brand) pump instead!

it probably won't look as nice and have a nice magnet base though, so you have that on me.

Current plan for kitchen is one of those small broadstone grills (removable as Id have to cook in the house) and some sort of instant hotwater heater - when camping we find all most time is spent making water hot for cleaning, drinks whatever.

do you have an awesome choice for those?

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Raised by Hamsters posted:

Not remotely!

I've got a beat up Coleman camp stove that works, but I'm not overly fond of. Really looking for something that can run at a lower minimum temperature, "low" on this thing is still awfully high.

Hot water is, as you say, kinda tedious. No immediate plans for it - But, there are places along the outer sides along the galley where we could bolt on an external unit if we ever decided we wanted to add that.

We use a "Camp Safari" brand 5 in one stove/bbq/grill/griddle that has too low of btu output, so it ends up going really low.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/cadac-safari-chef-stove-0762825p.0762825.html

And we have this coleman one which is fine, it has a higher btu so it gets used to boil the kettle most of the time.
https://www.rona.ca/en/product/propane-stove-single-burner-10-000-btu-97736956

We figure if we add the griddle to the camper, we don't need to carry a frying pan, and most of our camp cooking is covered.
https://blackstoneproducts.com/collections/griddles/products/17-tabletop-griddle

I figure one of these on a stand would help with washing up, but then I need to have an actual water supply and hookups for the 12v pump (not included).
https://ca.eccotemp.com/eccotemp-l5-portable-1-5-gpm-outdoor-tankless-water-heater/

Friends had one of these guys and it was nice for dishes and getting the kettle started for coffee. They dont' make this exact one any more (probably because it broke)
https://4x4earth.com/forum/index.php?threads/coleman-hot-water-on-demand-review.23348/

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
Looks good with doors - I wonder if the gap makes much of a difference?
My camper has horrible gaps everywhere and its fixed by having a little gutter thing above the door so drips go around.
Doesn't fit into your precise build though.

I had an interesting failure, my kids locked the camper when we parked it, and they decided to lock the deadbolt. Looks just like your lock there.
Then the deadbolt actuator fell apart inside or something, which then locked me out of the camper. We only have 1 door, so I couldnt' go in the other way.

This is the crappy thing:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0B461DPHH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Luckily, I could push the door window out enough to get my hand into the camper, unscrew all the screws holding the thing together and have it fall to pieces on the ground.
I replaced the handle as I didn't have any keys to the camper. The one I removed had rivets holding the internals in instead of screws, I would have had to crack the door or something to get in if it was the original.

Check your door handles to make sure they are not the crappy chinese ones, though you do have two points of entry, which would be fine.

I did have a plan of putting the electric ones in with a code, so I didn't have to carry keys when camping, but now Im not so sure.
(probably if I wasn't so cheap, it would be better too)

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blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
You are way more exacting then I could ever be with paint, my trailer is probably currently house latex over old gelcoat and I think it looks fine (though it is flat, not shiny).
My other trailer is tremclad rolled over rust.

Looks amazing though. I would be tempted to camp in it a season to see what changes it might need, then never get it past that "temporarily permanent" stage.

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