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Cool you unlocked your thread. Take 5. Truckfuckling fuckling sucks. step away from it for a few. Your rear sway is doing more work with the slide in anyway. Something is binding with the front sway. I don't know what it is because I don't know the geometry. Off road shops dance to a different tune... give it time. Put together some notes about what's going wrong, share this with prospective shops. You are in amongst friends that have spent entirely too much on an old piece of poo poo. It's the nature of the beast. Jeeps do this too. It can be unfucked, for more money/time/parts/etc. it's forever moving the problem around. It in some capacity will never end. E: grab a gopro and stick a big magnet on it. stick it somewhere so that the suspension is visible and go driving around. This will help a lot in narrowing things down.
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May 24, 2023 19:45
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 01:09 |
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Vampire Panties posted:Originally I was going to build plywood benches, but I think that will be way too heavy for what I need. I was thinking about using nylon webbing, like a lawn chair, to make the seats instead, but I'm really interested in any suggestion as well. Fiberglass? Sheet aluminum? Offcuts from a metal/boat/pool supplier are dirt. Sketchup Onshape Fusion360 Driveline vibes can happen via incorrect clocking. Especially in a multishaft setup. If they have arrows painted on make sure they're aligned. If not, make scribe marks and re-clock. Dry joints will also create vibes. Changing anything wrt joint angles cause vibes. Yoke queefs: Slip the yoke apart and poke around inside for a rubber o-ring. Yoke and splined shaft side. I once had a P38 rangie that had a similar problem due to the slip not being clocked correctly on reassembly. It killed the pinion bearings while it was in there. (I was there to throw a rearend at it and found the rear driveline a mess for whatever reason from a tcase job or something) Till the springs are done, can pull the bumper and see if that improves anything. I would too pay $400 to let them deal with pulling the coilovers and such than try and do it on the curb. Jeeps Just Ride Like poo poo (tm) 
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May 25, 2023 18:19
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Piles of old hard grease can cause sticking/queefing/etc. It doesn't need a ton of grease to do its job. The undercarriage looks pretty mint however. The rear looks relatively composed and soaks the up travel. 3/3 seems boaty, 7/7 seems stiff. The front coilovers are ridiculously stiff. Back the preload off slowly and find things to bounce into until the truck starts bumping the bump stops. It barely gets into the travel under braking. Change the preload and drive it with or without the front sway. I don't see any binding with the front sway through its limited travel with the end link or its knuckle. That's a plus. Also make sure the middle section of the sway where it passes between the frame rails isn't contacting anything as the suspension cycles through its travel. The front sway could be contributing to harshness when going over uneven terrain, like crossing a drainage ditch at an angle. The rear sway links look to move a little through the travel but I don't see binding there either. leafs and shocks look fine too. The in-cab footage is stabilized but you're bouncing all over the place on surface streets. Unacceptable. That rides like the unladen farmtruck that's sprung like a dumptruck. Over near seaworld dr is some pretty busted tarmac near the waterfront to get your jounce on. I rode over in that area semi regularly when I lived downtown It may help to write settings down vs outcome. Eventually you'll end up with a table of what works and what doesn't.
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May 26, 2023 01:26
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Vampire Panties posted:
 There's a lot of preload there and it would be absolutely noticeable if they even drove it across their parkinglot. That tracks, especially if they're in a hurry. Not to poison wells but just about every time I've paid for work I've been disappointed but it's at least done. Sometimes it comes out downright wrong. quote:
red/brownish grease is fine. The receptacle looks fine quote:
The thread can be fixed with a helicoil kit. Amazon or parts house. I stock this sorta stuff because it happens. Threads wear a little with each use. It's a good thing to learn. Speaking of, ditch the grade gouda because they're not gouda nuff. The washers are bowing and that's a recipe for the bolts to vibrate loose. grade 8.8/5 at the minimum and send. quote:
Are those ujoints greaseable? If they aren't sealed for life pump em full. quote:Bouncing somewhat resolved? but minor vibration in the steering wheel from ~35mph+ quote:CONCLUSION Agreed focus on the fronts right now which is where the bigger issue lies. The rears look fine enough to me for now.
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May 26, 2023 06:00
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Yeah get the weight back on it and give it time to settle in. From there steal some pointers from racers and set in your suspension sag (basically setting preload for the current loadout of the truck)
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May 27, 2023 19:10
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low/high speed compression is talking about the velocity of the shock's piston not the velocity of the vehicle. Here are some examples of low-speed scenarios: Chassis movements during acceleration, braking, cornering, accelerating; Gradual altitude changes: roller coaster type trail or road like the sections of a bridge. Small bump sensitivity and washboard-type terrain; Traction. Here are some examples of high-speed scenarios: Square-edged obstacles: potholes, rocks, roots, etc.; High-frequency, medium- to high-magnitude impacts like whoops, rocks, or roots; Bottom-out situations: landing jumps, drops, rock ledges, etc. There's similar circuits for rebound and there's other valving circuits depending on the shock type. When you decrease compression damping by turning the adjustment knob counter-clockwise for soft/faster, you allow the shock to compress faster. It feels softer and more supple. When you increase compression damping by turning the adjustment knob clockwise to slow/firmer, you make the shock compress slower. It feels stiffer and more supportive. Watch fast offroad stuff in slow mo, you'll see the suspension cycling slow on compression but fast on rebound through things like desert rollers. Here is when you should consider decreasing low-speed damping: Ride generally feels harsh and you desire it to feel looser and more comfortable; Vehicle or bike rides too high in travel; center of gravity isn’t low enough; Small bumps and washboard-type terrain are harsh and uncomfortable; Losing traction while cornering; Losing traction in loose or slippery conditions. Here is when you should consider increasing low-speed damping: Ride generally feels too soft and you desire it to feel tighter and more responsive; Back end excessively squats during acceleration; Front end excessively dives during braking; Chassis rolls too much while turning a corner; Ride feels mushy and uses too much travel during gradual altitude changes; Front end bounces off of small to medium sized obstacles (like rocks); Back end bucks off of jumps and other bumps. Here’s when you should consider decreasing high-speed damping: You aren’t using full shock travel, even in high-speed scenarios, and you’d like more comfort; You’re generally going to be driving at lower speeds (remember, high vehicle speed is correlated with high-speed shock movements, but doesn’t necessitate it); Potholes on the road and other square-edged obstacles are particularly jarring; Vehicle or bike bounces off of high-frequency, medium- to high-frequency impacts like whoops because the shocks aren’t compressing enough; Landing jumps and drops feel harsh. Here’s when you should consider increasing high-speed damping: You’re using all of your shock travel and bottoming out too often in high-speed scenarios, and you want more comfort and control; You’re generally going to be driving at higher speeds (remember, high vehicle speed is correlated with high-speed shock movements, but doesn’t necessitate it); Square edged obstacles use more travel than they should and sometimes even bottom out shocks; Vehicle or bike bounces off of high-frequency, medium- to high-frequency impacts like whoops because the shocks have packed down and have no more available travel to absorb the next impact. Rebound can be a bit more complex since it sometimes depends on the situation. Too slow and it'll usually 'pack' in and fail to respond to terrain. Too fast and it'll buck/bounce. This can be related to the low speed compression settings so it's important to dial that in first. Mostly pulled from the below for reference. https://foxacademy.ridefox.com/2021/06/how-to-adjust-dsc-factory-settings/ https://foxacademy.ridefox.com/2020/10/how-to-use-low-and-high-speed-compression-adjusters/
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May 29, 2023 20:05
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Your shop doesn't seem to know the weight of the truck or its individual wheel bias. Get that information. CAT scales at the minimum, use your phone, they have an app for that. No bets on it being every bit as heavy as my bricknose 350 which is ~ a ton over a taco's rated gvr. Fire the shop and find someoene else. Valving and tuning is where the magic lies. Wait till Hammertown is back open (feb '24) to business and go meet some faces. Valving and tuning said valving requires expert skill. Note that you're trying to do something very hard here. Offroad and speed involves moonbuggy soft suspension. Load hauling, is the complete opposite. Know that with vehicles set up to do "jack of all trades" type work there is "jack of all compromises" in some department or another. The brick rides like a spine-busting dump truck whether its empty, loaded, doing 5mph, or 80. The rovers all had lousy road performance but made up with it offroad. Any improvement in ride quality with removing the rear leaf shackle mount brace is probably anecdotal at best and at worst its frame flex introduced from all the extra weight. Being over the gvr? leave the reinforcement. The leaf mounts look fine. The shackles look fine. Other noteworthy things. Mentioning again to use a notebook and log each change. Much like tuning carburetors there's lots of wrong turns to make in this maze. It's a lot easier when you have a guide rope to fall back on. Start with the front axle and do your work there. It looks to be the most out of whack here. Set your sag for the front axle with the coilover's preload/ride height adjustment. The rear seems ok enough for RQ even if it's a little spongy. (maybe +1 for LS compression) Don't do this though until the front is dialed in. Make sure the front coilover springs aren't binding Make sure the front coilover isn't bottoming out before the bump is contacted. Video of this maybe? My hypothosis is that the front end is set up extremely stiff vs the rearend causing all of your problems. I don't know what the truck weighs or what its weight biases is. I could be completely wrong here when the weights are known. It should be noticeable in how it drives with the front bashing into everything. Wandering to the other parts of your post here. Are you planning to fulltime with this setup? It might be... small for that. With a composting crapper you're good for like 2 lukewarm days of boondocking before hygiene starts to get out of hand. Nevermind the extra half ton + of full time weight. The truck isn't ruined. You aren't ruined. It's just a car. It's also worth a loving fortune, even if the config is off like it is because it is set up with the right components. Life is bleeding into setting the truck up which is failing at every turn. This is a self reinforcing negative feedback loop. Sometimes it's best to step away for a bit and work on something else or nothing at all. This truck could be traded off for some other even bigger project to break in even larger ways. It could be returned completely to stock and sold. These have drop out thirds, just swap the carrier with the 5.13 gears for stockers, etc. Someone on IG would pay a loving fortune for a taco setup with a truck camper because these trucks aren't really built for that kind of thing.
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Jun 1, 2023 17:35
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IANAL however don't post recordings without their consent and pretty sure in CA don't take recordings without their consent.
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Jun 3, 2023 20:05
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Vampire Panties posted:
There is a reason why I bought a waterlogged rv in 2020 to work with rather than try my hand again at doing a complete custom interior like I failed at in 2016 with the Gillig. The most important lesson I learned from the two projects is never live in a construction zone. Just because Kastein can do it, doesn't mean anyone else can. Now I could pull off such a project but there's no way in hell I'd do it while living in it. You've not lived till your underwear is laden with sawdust. To be honest it won't be any different than the taco project. You gotta follow the recipe. If you don't, you're not going to like the cake you've baked. We'll help you and show you the steps but if you don't follow and execute the recipe to the letter you're not going to get the results you want. It's not all bad. Your thread helped me with my own truck in some way. I'm a ways from posting about it though. In short: CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:This thread is a hell of a ride Edit: builds character posted:e: don't get sucked into #vanlife and buy a 50k+ van. I can't stress this enough. Don't get sucked into the hype machine. This all sucks so loving much 90% of the time. I've a page and a half of poo poo to fix on my rig's upfit and the rig is broken halfway across the country. If you're at the line that shall not be crossed with the taco, the van will cross that line too. The goalposts will forever keep moving. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jun 13, 2023 |
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Jun 13, 2023 16:29
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how much technical knowledge does it take to build a van interior?
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Imo if Toyota tax and problems scares you stay the gently caress away from diesels.
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jun 16, 2023 |
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Jun 16, 2023 19:03
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If a one time use ten thousand dollar fuel system on a twenty five thousand dollar engine doesn't scare you then by all means.... I am literally posting with two extremely broken diesels at the moment that's gonna take an injection of kilodollars to get back to operational. Do. Not. Be. Me.
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Jun 16, 2023 19:20
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 01:09 |
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350 gasser. Pick your poison if you want an econoline or super shitter. The cutaway econolines get a better frame. The E550 literally sits on a F550 frame with the entire running gear of one. They're old and rare now. I'm not getting into pushrod fords for they come in obs and older. These imo are unsuitable for a tc unless it's a f-superduty(F450). Considering I own a 350 from that period with a 'wide' frame that's been broken 7 times and the transmission is hilariously destroyed. 5.4(underpowered) | 6.2 | 7.3 (eats cams, swap with aftermarket) The 4.6 is unsuitable for this application. the 2V won't hold its plugs and the 3V won't let them go. There's tools for dealing with both. Get them. The 6.8 V10 is a turd. 5R110 | 6R140 The 4R100 is long in tooth. The 10R140 is junk The 10.5, Dana 80, Dana 110/130/135/300M are all fine rear axles. The Dana 50 front is weedy, opt for the 60. The wide track super 60 is better yet. *************** Do not exceed the payload/gvr of the loving vehicle Ford publishes TC/Slide in weights for their smaller trucks. This specific rating is sometimes lower than its published payload. Stick to its loving ratings. Superduty 'wide' pickup frames are heat treated. Do Not gently caress With Them. The 'narrow' cab chassis frames are not. The de-rate for a slide in is due to the duty cycle and how the load is spread on the frame. TCs are a big heavy immutable box that puts sharp dynamic loads on the frame. *************** None of this poo poo will ride good unless you opt for a 2005.5+ Super shitter. Keldermann and liquid spring has you covered. Lastly Driver Returns On Foot.
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Jun 22, 2023 16:02
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