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Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

two_beer_bishes posted:

I'm looking at some exhaust options from TTI (2.5in vs 3in and X vs H pipe, leaning towards 3in H-pipe but I need to make sure it'll fit with all the modifications this car has) but I don't know that I'll make a move on that this year. In the meantime, I'd like to run the engine long enough to get it up to temp but I can't do that in it's current state. Since I have two mufflers already, is there any reason why I couldn't just connect them directly to the headers?

Yeah you can do that no problem as long as they fit, and usually guys put little dumps on the end of the mufflers to point it towards the ground, I don't know if that's better for sound or fumes or both.

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two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Yeah you can do that no problem as long as they fit, and usually guys put little dumps on the end of the mufflers to point it towards the ground, I don't know if that's better for sound or fumes or both.

Yeah they fit but definitely hang down a bit. I'm just waiting on my night shift neighbors to wake up before I start shaking houses.


e: verdict, it's still really loving loud but a little easier on the ears.

two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Nov 6, 2023

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
if you're going to leave it like that for a while, maybe use some bailing wire or something to take some of the weight off. couple wraps around the muffler and crossmember or something. they're probably light enough to cantilever, but why put undue stress on those header bolts?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If the goal is just being able to start and warm it up... pick a day and time least likely to be obnoxious to your neighbors and wear earpro?

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
Oh already was a show case, my bad :)

Still love this thread to say the least

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Raluek posted:

if you're going to leave it like that for a while, maybe use some bailing wire or something to take some of the weight off. couple wraps around the muffler and crossmember or something. they're probably light enough to cantilever, but why put undue stress on those header bolts?

Great point, I have the ends resting on jack stands right now. It's all very easy to remove so when I do park it for the winter I'm just going to pull the mufflers off to minimize the chances of any damage.

IOwnCalculus posted:

If the goal is just being able to start and warm it up... pick a day and time least likely to be obnoxious to your neighbors and wear earpro?

This is what I'm going to have to do. I hate being that neighbor though, the guys next door both work nights and my carport the car is under is right next to their house. I might give it another shot this afternoon if I have time to.

CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:

Oh already was a show case, my bad :)

Still love this thread to say the least

Thanks for the support, it has really cooled down here so work will be sporadic for the next month or so while I still have the motivation to pick at some easy stuff like electrical projects to help prepare it for street duty next year.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

lmao the lady's (your wife?) reaction to starting the car was perfect

*midwest accent* OOOMAIGAHD

fuckin love how a 440 sounds

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Cactus Ghost posted:

lmao the lady's (your wife?) reaction to starting the car was perfect

*midwest accent* OOOMAIGAHD

fuckin love how a 440 sounds

She heard me cranking it over earlier in the day when I was making sure the oil pump was primed.
She thought I was trying to start it so she wasn't expecting it to start so easily or quickly like that, plus the noise. Lots of noise. She's a great sport when it comes to this stuff. She asked me what it would take to turn this car into something that could handle a road course like Gingerman since that's within driving distance for us.

boxen
Feb 20, 2011

two_beer_bishes posted:

She asked me what it would take to turn this car into something that could handle a road course like Gingerman since that's within driving distance for us.

"Only some money"

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

boxen posted:

"Only some money"

It hasn't been ruled out yet! I need to get some wheel time just driving it around here before I can commit to such a project. Just off the top of my head, it'll need suspension, brakes, and tires at a minimum. But the biggest problem might be the transmission, it's a 727 "racing" unit designed for the strip whatever that entails so it might not be great on a road track. Thing to figure out in the summer.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
Nothing inherently contradictory about a 727 being good for drag racing and also being good for road track, except the part where it is a 3-speed slushbox.

Rear axle ratio and stall speed (and diameter) of your converter would be the two biggest differences between a "drag setup" vs a "road setup", I'd say.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Its weird that you mention the notes your uncle had said "don't do burnouts in 1st gear" or something like that.

Anyone with more brains RE drag racing automatics know why that would be? Is that just for warming up the tires before you make a run?
Does that mean you can't do a pass starting in first, since presumably you'd be spinning the poo poo out of the tires for that too?

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer

wesleywillis posted:

Its weird that you mention the notes your uncle had said "don't do burnouts in 1st gear" or something like that.

Anyone with more brains RE drag racing automatics know why that would be? Is that just for warming up the tires before you make a run?
Does that mean you can't do a pass starting in first, since presumably you'd be spinning the poo poo out of the tires for that too?

Nidhg00670000 posted:

Yeah, it means your valvebody doesn't have low/reverse band apply (meaning it also doesn't have any engine braking in first gear), this means your low/reverse drum is only held by the overrunning clutch, aka "the sprag". If/when the sprag fails, the low drum will go to roughly 2x engine RPM, and if you still have a stock low drum in there it will immediately experience a rapid unscheduled disassembly.

Not a good time.

EDIT: It's a thing because there is then no overlap from having to apply the intermediate band while the low/rev band is still applied. Quicker, crisper 1>2 shift.

Plenty of drawbacks, and I think more and more valve bodies have moved away from the "no low band" design. If the car noses down and picks back up for whatever reason (a hiccup in fueling, ignition, whatever), or if you get on and off of the throttle while in first gear, you can damage the sprag. If the tires hook up, then they spin, then hook up again, the sprag can fail.

Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Nov 11, 2023

Cached Money
Apr 11, 2010

two_beer_bishes posted:

It hasn't been ruled out yet! I need to get some wheel time just driving it around here before I can commit to such a project. Just off the top of my head, it'll need suspension, brakes, and tires at a minimum. But the biggest problem might be the transmission, it's a 727 "racing" unit designed for the strip whatever that entails so it might not be great on a road track. Thing to figure out in the summer.

Manual swap. :getin:

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Cached Money posted:

Manual swap. :getin:

I've started researching if that's possible, looks like the A833 is probably the easiest to work with. One thing I read said the crankshaft needs something drilled out and right now I have no idea if that's the case with mine.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
The drilling spoken of is the drilling for the fitting of the pilot bushing. Stock cranks came in four variants from the factory iirc. Drilled and reamed with bushing installed, drilled and reamed, drilled but not reamed, or not drilled.

This obviously matters little in this case since it is a stroker and hence doesn't have any stock crank anymore.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
That's some good info, thanks! So far my research has been pretty much "can I ..." so I haven't gotten into anything technical yet.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
About to pull the trigger on a new exhaust. I'm looking at a TTi 3in header-back since it's reasonable priced and seems to be highly regarded in the B body community. The website has a few footnotes about fitment issues, one being if the rear springs were relocated. Thankfully I found a post my uncle had made a few years ago on the b body forums where he said specifically that the rear springs were relocated inward to the frame rails. The TTi guy said considering the rest of the car setup it'll most likely still work but I'll have to source some different mufflers that will fit.

I did some freelance "IT" work for my MIL's friend who opted to pay way more than my time off is worth so a couple of days of helping her out is pretty much paying for this entire expense! Up next will be deciding on road tires.

In other news, after years of beating her down, I've finally talked my wife into getting a kit car in a couple years once I've had my fun with this car. I'll end up selling this car before I get that project going and most likely I'll sell my supercharged BRZ once the kit is complete.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
why sell it? i assume the kit car is of a sports car of some kind, so that should slot into a different spot in the lineup than a drag car. hell, even if it doesn't, then you can afford to be rowdier with em cause you have a spare if you blow one up.

hopefully once you have it a bit more set up for the street, you'll get too used to driving it around and not want to ditch it anytime soon

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

presumably to get some of that sweet sweet boomer money that makes anything pre 1975 dumb expensive

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
that's all the more reason to hang onto it, though. if they're expensive, you can't ever get another one.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Raluek posted:

hopefully once you have it a bit more set up for the street, you'll get too used to driving it around and not want to ditch it anytime soon

I have fairly low expectations for how streetable this is going to be. The small fuel cell is something I could deal with but the race fuel combined with that is going to make it a huge pain in the rear end. But really it comes down to what we want in our garage and a drag car really isn't on the list. If this wasn't my uncle's I wouldn't have ever considered it. But I have every intention on enjoying the hell out of it while it's ours. As far as value goes, I don't think it's all that valuable, maybe mid 20s at the most.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
Exhaust has arrived! :woop:

I picked up a new battery this morning and made some progress on the electrical system mysteries but it's too cold to do much else this week. I'm also pretty sure I have the shift pattern figured out.

The list: Install exhaust, get road tires, top off transmission fluid (need to get the engine to operating temp for this), bleed the brakes, install driver side seat harness, install new engine mount bolts, torque down the transmission crossbar.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Cactus Ghost posted:

presumably to get some of that sweet sweet boomer money that makes anything pre 1975 dumb expensive

If it was a matching numbers, completely stock and unrestored 440 or Hemi car it would be, but as a race (drag) car it's not going to be worth anything near that.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
Quick update to keep this out of the archives. Haven't made much progress lately due to a bunch of preventative maintenance on my wife's car and my brz that I just pulled out of winter storage. I've been picking away at the exhaust but it's a real bitch because of the rear spring relocation. Lots of trial & error with different mufflers but I still haven't found something that works perfectly. I might just forgo the tailpipes and put in a downturn right after the mufflers ahead of the rear axle, at least to get it driving.

boxen
Feb 20, 2011

two_beer_bishes posted:

I might just forgo the tailpipes and put in a downturn right after the mufflers ahead of the rear axle, at least to get it driving.

Completely reasonable. You might get fumes in the passenger compartment I suppose, but if it's bad or too loud it will at least get you to a muffler shop where they can weld up whatever you want.
Also, instead of going straight down under the car (where the sound is going to hit the pavement and bounce back up to the underside of the car, and be loud), you could maybe kick it out to each side ahead of the rear wheel.

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two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

boxen posted:

Completely reasonable. You might get fumes in the passenger compartment I suppose, but if it's bad or too loud it will at least get you to a muffler shop where they can weld up whatever you want.
Also, instead of going straight down under the car (where the sound is going to hit the pavement and bounce back up to the underside of the car, and be loud), you could maybe kick it out to each side ahead of the rear wheel.

No AC so windows will always be down, I also don't want to have to wear earplugs. Side exit is a great idea though, I know someone who can help me with the finishing touches when I'm ready for it!

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