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Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
The T-bolt valve fasteners are for quicker access, some people are concerned that repeated hard runs down the track warrant pulling the valve covers and checking the lash on their solid lifter cams.

Or sometimes its people that want to look cool and like a racer.

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Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer

two_beer_bishes posted:

The documents for the transmission specify to do burnouts in 2nd or 3rd gear, and NOT 1st gear. Glad I saw that!

Yeah, it means your valvebody doesn't have low/reverse band apply (meaning it also doesn't have any engine braking in first gear), this means your low/reverse drum is only held by the overrunning clutch, aka "the sprag". If/when the sprag fails, the low drum will go to roughly 2x engine RPM, and if you still have a stock low drum in there it will immediately experience a rapid unscheduled disassembly.

Not a good time.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
Caution, I've had the chain links cut the filter in two if you don't tighten the pliers enough.

fake edit: also, the cracked tail housing is usually because of a bad u-joint, unbalanced driveshaft or loose/bad trans mount in my experience.

Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Sep 23, 2023

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
I don't know if there's a variant for Mopar RBs, but for Chevy SBs there's a dizzy hold-down clamp that you clamp around the dizzy shaft as well, meaning you don't change the timing every time you remove it, I buy one stat and put it in every car I get since I first found out about them.

EDIT: Moroso 26215 is an example of what I'm talking about, but there are cheaper variants out there.

Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Oct 29, 2023

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
Nothing inherently contradictory about a 727 being good for drag racing and also being good for road track, except the part where it is a 3-speed slushbox.

Rear axle ratio and stall speed (and diameter) of your converter would be the two biggest differences between a "drag setup" vs a "road setup", I'd say.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer

wesleywillis posted:

Its weird that you mention the notes your uncle had said "don't do burnouts in 1st gear" or something like that.

Anyone with more brains RE drag racing automatics know why that would be? Is that just for warming up the tires before you make a run?
Does that mean you can't do a pass starting in first, since presumably you'd be spinning the poo poo out of the tires for that too?

Nidhg00670000 posted:

Yeah, it means your valvebody doesn't have low/reverse band apply (meaning it also doesn't have any engine braking in first gear), this means your low/reverse drum is only held by the overrunning clutch, aka "the sprag". If/when the sprag fails, the low drum will go to roughly 2x engine RPM, and if you still have a stock low drum in there it will immediately experience a rapid unscheduled disassembly.

Not a good time.

EDIT: It's a thing because there is then no overlap from having to apply the intermediate band while the low/rev band is still applied. Quicker, crisper 1>2 shift.

Plenty of drawbacks, and I think more and more valve bodies have moved away from the "no low band" design. If the car noses down and picks back up for whatever reason (a hiccup in fueling, ignition, whatever), or if you get on and off of the throttle while in first gear, you can damage the sprag. If the tires hook up, then they spin, then hook up again, the sprag can fail.

Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Nov 11, 2023

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Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
The drilling spoken of is the drilling for the fitting of the pilot bushing. Stock cranks came in four variants from the factory iirc. Drilled and reamed with bushing installed, drilled and reamed, drilled but not reamed, or not drilled.

This obviously matters little in this case since it is a stroker and hence doesn't have any stock crank anymore.

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