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Does the OM-2 need the old 1.35v batteries?
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Apr 12, 2024 00:53
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I would guess shutter speeds being off before light meter calibration for most cameras. Is there an easy way of checking this? I've searched and found all sorts of techniques with recording the sound and building weird IR light boxes, but maybe there's a simpler way? Ziggy Smalls posted:Does the OM-2 need the old 1.35v batteries? The manual says 1.5V and I've inserted a couple of 1,55V SR44 Silver Oxide batteries. Could that be the cause? I've read that these Olympus cameras are especially sensitive to voltages. The camera itself seems well used, but not abused. The film advance lever needs a little extra push to enable the shutter, the seals are not great, and it's pretty dirty. The camera has probably been sitting in a basement or something for the last 20 years. afen fucked around with this message at 11:24 on Apr 12, 2024 |
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Apr 12, 2024 11:22
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afen posted:Is there an easy way of checking this? I've searched and found all sorts of techniques with recording the sound and building weird IR light boxes, but maybe there's a simpler way? Recording the sound and bringing it into audacity so you can zoom in on the peaks is ok up until maybe 1/125 at a random guess but you won’t get high accuracy results results without an actual shutter tester. No, the batteries won’t be the issue. Those are in spec for the camera. Cameras used to take 1.3V then switched to 1.5V later. The best thing you can do is look at the negatives. If the density is good then the scan (or edit) is bad. This can happen when the lab sets bad white and black points on your film and applies it to the whole roll Megabound fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Apr 12, 2024 |
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Apr 12, 2024 11:32
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Father O'Blivion posted:From the same roll a ~12x enlargement onto 3.5x5" paper. echoing megabound, this is great, lovely texture as he said too. would like it as a small print!
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Apr 12, 2024 14:45
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I know everyone's horny for eclipseposting but I, for one, won't have those ready for a while. In the meantime, testing out a new old-stock offering from Atlanta Film Co, which they've labeled as "Koji 125T." A discontinued Fuji cinema stock that was kept cold stored since 2011, processed in ECN2. These are from a visit to Tucson for a wedding. Metered at 100 ISO, without a warming filter, shot with my Leica III on a Canon 85 f1.8.  I have four other rolls of various vision 3 from the same trip to scan and postprocess this weekend. Hopefully some of them came out visually appealing.
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Apr 12, 2024 16:23
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That eclipse picture is pretty sweet though, Id definitely hang that on my wall! The truck pics are no slouch either. Please post more vision 3 stuff, I just ordered a roll and Im starting to consider what stocks I might want to take on vacation in June. Anyhow, how do you all use light meters? Do you mostly use incident/reflective or spot meters? I've been spending a lot of time behind cameras without meters or with broken meters recently. I normally use a reflective meter app on my phone but was getting tired of whipping it out so I picked up a Gossen Lunapro SBC. It was a lot less expensive than a sekonic and its got a spot meter attachment available. Im looking forward to trying it out. Getting the gossen led to me checking out a couple old meters I had lying around. I thought they were probably junk but I used the gossen and my phone as benchmarks and surprisingly, they work great! Left to right: - Weston Master II. - A like-new Gossen Luna-Pro SBC - GE PR-1 The Weston Master II and the GE meter feel solid with a nice heft. They're made of bakelite and aluminum, I think. The Gossen is plastic and not as tank-like, but not cheap junk either.  I got this Weston Master II in a lot with and old bolex motion picture camera. Its corroded, dirty and musty. Its meant to be a reflective meter but you can take incident readings with an attachment (which mine is missing). Also, for some reason Weston has their own scale for film speeds which is the dumbest thing I can think of. You'd need to look up your film speed on the weston scale to get the right value for the meter. The meter is too beaten up and smelly for me to want to use but the weird speed scale is enough to put me off of it.  It's got this neat door in the back that flips open for low & high light situations.  Flipping the door open also changes the scale on the front.  The GE PR-1 belonged to my grandfather. Its a reflective meter with an incident attachment on the top & I think it was made in the early 1950s. You hold a button down on the side until the needle stops moving, and then you twist the aluminum ring to align the pointer with the needle. Its kinda cool because its got two needles, one for low light and one for high and both are bracketed for +/-1 stop. 
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Apr 12, 2024 16:57
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metering: on my leica I use this guy - Hedeco Lime 2. https://hedeco.de/ Similar to other modern reflective offerings but I thought the silvery finish matched well on the camera body, plus the price was right at the time. It feels highly effective and accurate in outdoor lighting conditions - shade, cloud, sun, etc., but it definitely seems to struggle indoors(or maybe I do). On the OM4 I just got it's all internal spot metering + exposure comp unless I'm shooting fast in which case I'm just doing auto exposure based on what gives me an acceptable shutter speed for handheld. Haven't gotten any film from it back yet, though, I've only had it for a month or so.
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Apr 12, 2024 17:13
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I bought an entry level Sekonic on eBay that I use for incident readings and it works well. Now that I’ve read the zone theory book, I’m having spot meter related GAS symptoms and have my eye on vintage Pentax stuff. We’ll see if I make that jump though
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Apr 12, 2024 17:48
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The light meter on my film camera is busted and the phone app I got does not line up very well with what my digital camera meters at, my phone camera is trash so it probably isn't detecting light properly. So I'm just going to sunny 16 and zone system raw dog it and see what happens.
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Apr 12, 2024 18:10
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illcendiary posted:I bought an entry level Sekonic on eBay that I use for incident readings and it works well. Now that I’ve read the zone theory book, I’m having spot meter related GAS symptoms and have my eye on vintage Pentax stuff. We’ll see if I make that jump though This is why I was curious how others do it. I'm a little hesitant to just hit things with my incident meter because I was being so surgical with my reflective/spot meter on my phone. I didn't know about the zone theory but was doing something similar but super basic. The sekonic spot meters are $$ but the spot attachment for my gossen is like $30 on eBay.
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Apr 12, 2024 18:20
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May just go local if the price differential isn't too bad, but who do people like for C-41 developing in the US these days? Low cost is main criteria, and I have my own scanner (that I need to get around to fixing).
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Apr 12, 2024 18:40
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illcendiary posted:I bought an entry level Sekonic on eBay that I use for incident readings and it works well. Now that I’ve read the zone theory book, I’m having spot meter related GAS symptoms and have my eye on vintage Pentax stuff. We’ll see if I make that jump though One thing about zone theory/Ansel Adams' specific use of it - it really is focused on adjusting development for what zone you place the shadows and highlights on. This was possible for Ansel to do because he was developing one sheet at a time, and because he had done exhaustive and extensive experimentation developing test shots and measuring density in highlight and shadow areas with the results. If you don't have those constants dialed in, and/or you aren't able to adjust development to retain highlight detail even with very extremely zoned highlights, then there isn't really much gained from adhering to it. Spot meters are still useful, but just for the general knowledge/interest of the thread, it's good to note that really what you're doing is trying to meter around to find the exposure settings that are going to land the most stuff you want to retain a lot of detail of in that nice +/- two stop range, because you're almost certainly shooting a roll that you're just going to develop to some general standard.
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Apr 12, 2024 20:17
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I Sunny-16 the majority of my photos but if I'm shooting IR or are on a tripod anyway I have a Minolta Spot Meter
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Apr 12, 2024 20:35
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Anybody looked on Temu for film? I just ordered 2 rolls of ilford pan 100. We'll see what it is when it gets here in a week. https://share.temu.com/hMvVvxQIi4A There's a few other weird films for sale too.
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Apr 12, 2024 23:54
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I have a Sekonic L758Cine that I use for work since that's pretty much the standard in the film industry, but I just bought a Sekonic L308S to use as a backup/walk around light meter when I shoot on one of my film cameras without a light meter (Zeiss Super Ikonta and Bronica S2A). I've found using the incident meter for my film photography to be more enjoyable and more consistent than using any of my in-camera meters. I just take incident measurements with my hand shading the dome to mimic taking a reading in shade and that's what I set my aperture and shutter speed settings to and it's worked out really well.
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Apr 13, 2024 00:21
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toadee posted:One thing about zone theory/Ansel Adams' specific use of it - it really is focused on adjusting development for what zone you place the shadows and highlights on. This was possible for Ansel to do because he was developing one sheet at a time, and because he had done exhaustive and extensive experimentation developing test shots and measuring density in highlight and shadow areas with the results. If you don't have those constants dialed in, and/or you aren't able to adjust development to retain highlight detail even with very extremely zoned highlights, then there isn't really much gained from adhering to it. Spot meters are still useful, but just for the general knowledge/interest of the thread, it's good to note that really what you're doing is trying to meter around to find the exposure settings that are going to land the most stuff you want to retain a lot of detail of in that nice +/- two stop range, because you're almost certainly shooting a roll that you're just going to develop to some general standard. Honestly, given that 80% of what I take pictures of is my kids, the only real takeaway I've put into practice is to expose their skin tone in Zone VI instead of V (i.e., just overexposing a stop off of what the meter says against their face). My AE-1 has a modern battery which I believe throws off the in-camera meter. It feels like it works correctly otherwise, which is why I bought the Sekonic in the first place. My F4 appears to have an accurate meter which is nice and it's let me let go of the Sekonic in most situations. VoodooXT posted:I have a Sekonic L758Cine that I use for work since that's pretty much the standard in the film industry, but I just bought a Sekonic L308S to use as a backup/walk around light meter when I shoot on one of my film cameras without a light meter (Zeiss Super Ikonta and Bronica S2A). I've found using the incident meter for my film photography to be more enjoyable and more consistent than using any of my in-camera meters. I just take incident measurements with my hand shading the dome to mimic taking a reading in shade and that's what I set my aperture and shutter speed settings to and it's worked out really well. Funnily enough, the L308S is the same model I use! Pretty solid little meter.
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Apr 13, 2024 05:20
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For the L308S/X-U etc how do you guys meter stuff far away in reflected mode? The manual says it's a 40degree area but I'm not really sure how I should be treating that or what that's analogous to (I guess a moderate center weighted meter?)
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Apr 14, 2024 03:59
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Apr 14, 2024 09:42
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a dingus posted:Please post more vision 3 stuff, I just ordered a roll and Im starting to consider what stocks I might want to take on vacation in June. The Vision3 lineup (50D, 250D, 200T, 500T) is staggeringly great in both 16mm and 35mm when exposed and processed to spec in ECN-2. It, along with ektachrome, are the most compelling reasons to choose film over digital from a quality/post-processing standpoint. Most of it's 'look' comes from the lower contrast and retains bags of latitude in terms of exposure and color temperature. I'll post some examples from the last few years if I can unearth them. I exposed a roll of 50D today in a Regula Picca clone. Cinestill's offerings had to compromise from a consumer/marketing standpoint by removing the anti-halation layer and thus fundamentally altered the character of the film. If you can get the stocks with remjet and have them processed ECN-2, do it. Edit: The only stand-alone meter I've ever owned is the Gossen Sixtomat F2. Handles incident, reflective, and flash with a few other niche features like filter factor calculation and flash-fill balancing. Father O'Blivion fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Apr 14, 2024 |
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Apr 14, 2024 20:22
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Father O'Blivion posted:... I'll post some examples from the last few years if I can unearth them ... I am super curious to see your results, especially if I can buy it in 120 and have a lab process it. I exposed two rolls of Cinestill 50D and trashed (used as a practice roll for putting film on a spool) a third roll because I just hated the results.
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Apr 14, 2024 20:35
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Does anyone have a good beginners guide to the zone system? The couple YouTube’s I tried went into it assuming you knew about the zone system and they were showing you how to properly meter for it. I need babbys first introduction to the zone system
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Apr 14, 2024 23:08
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The Zone System isn’t just about metering, it’s about printing. When applied properly you’re shooting a given film at a chosen exposure to print on a chosen paper using your preferred developers and you should have all of those things in your head while taking the shot. When people talk about The Zone System today it’s just a convenient way to think about dynamic range. When you point a spot meter at a surface and take a reading that is Zone 5, your middle grey. You then take meter readings around your scene and check how many stops different these are in comparison to your 5. One stop is one zone. Negative films give you around 8-10 stops of dynamic range while reversal is like 5-6. You can also work backwards, you can put your highlight at 7 for example and let the rest fall around that point. That would be metering where you want the highlight using your spot meter, let’s say you get f16 @ 500, then move it 2 stops up, f16 @ 125 or f8 at 500. Megabound fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 14, 2024 23:19
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It's based on a basic understanding of how a spot meter functions with regard 18% middle grey. You expose to place that spot at a given density then push or pull in development to handle the other densities. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXFV05kho2s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFr0qElpQx4 'Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights'. Like an Iron Chef quote for how to handle an ingredient.
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Apr 14, 2024 23:19
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cerious posted:For the L308S/X-U etc how do you guys meter stuff far away in reflected mode? The manual says it's a 40degree area but I'm not really sure how I should be treating that or what that's analogous to (I guess a moderate center weighted meter?) I've just given up using it in reflected mode because I don't have the confidence that I'm metering what I want to from a distance without being able to see.
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Apr 14, 2024 23:21
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Changed the seals on the Olympus camera, and it seems to have fixed both the light leak and the exposure issues.   
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Apr 17, 2024 09:04
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My experiment with a 6x9 folder in the form of a Bessa II has not worked out as it has a nasty light leak past the focusing mechanism and I am struggling to find someone who is willing to fix it. If I were stupid enough to try another 6x9 folder, is there a more reliable (or easier to fix) model? Or is it all about the reputation of the seller? The alternative seems to be a Fuji GF670. While it is not a 6x9, it is at least a compact medium format camera.
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Apr 18, 2024 02:29
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Get a Moskva-5, I love mine.
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Apr 18, 2024 02:45
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theHUNGERian posted:My experiment with a 6x9 folder in the form of a Bessa II has not worked out as it has a nasty light leak past the focusing mechanism and I am struggling to find someone who is willing to fix it. If I were stupid enough to try another 6x9 folder, is there a more reliable (or easier to fix) model? Or is it all about the reputation of the seller? Yeah, I’d go either a Moskva or a Super Ikonta.
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Apr 18, 2024 04:29
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theHUNGERian posted:My experiment with a 6x9 folder in the form of a Bessa II has not worked out as it has a nasty light leak past the focusing mechanism and I am struggling to find someone who is willing to fix it. If I were stupid enough to try another 6x9 folder, is there a more reliable (or easier to fix) model? Or is it all about the reputation of the seller? I wouldn't do a GF670. I loved the camera but I ended up selling mine because it had a very irritating intermittent film flatness issue that I could never conclusively figure out. I posted about it in the MF thread. I actually never had issues with the electronics but it's always something that could have become an issue, I've heard of some of them having issues with battery drain. To top it all off, I've been doing mostly backpacking lately and bringing a GF670 out for extended backcountry trips felt a little too risky. So I got rid of it while I could. It is a pretty stunning camera though when it works. I don't miss the issues but I do miss the photos. The lens is insanely good.    Anyways now I'm just using a GS645S which doesn't fold but it's basically the same size, and a half pound lighter. The lens is pretty good on that one too. It's not too reliable either (I've had it repaired multiple times) but 645 is plenty for when I'm backpacking, and I have a 6x7 camera for when I can carry more weight. But if I ever see a GF670W for a reasonable price, I'll be very tempted to snap it up. Apparently the lens is somehow even better on that one, and to me the lack of folding is now a plus because it'll avoid that film flatness issue.
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Apr 18, 2024 07:10
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One day I’ll own a Plaubel Makina 67
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Apr 18, 2024 07:25
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Megabound posted:One day I’ll own a Plaubel Makina 67 There was one in Jason Lee's shop for like 24 hours but it was gone by the time I went in. Probably for the best for my wallet
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Apr 18, 2024 07:30
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Sounds good, thanks folks.
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Apr 18, 2024 14:19
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If you ever do get a Plaubel Makina 67, be gentle with extending the bellows and make sure it's focused at infinity every time you extend and retract it. The metering wiring is super fragile and is usually the first thing that breaks on them.
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Apr 18, 2024 14:57
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VoodooXT posted:If you ever do get a Plaubel Makina 67, be gentle with extending the bellows and make sure it's focused at infinity every time you extend and retract it. The metering wiring is super fragile and is usually the first thing that breaks on them. Actually this way is much cooler https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIHpAEBD4_8&t=2s
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Apr 18, 2024 17:18
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cerious posted:Actually this way is much cooler Lol yea, I saw that before. The heart of every Makina 67 owner froze.
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Apr 18, 2024 18:14
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I have an option to buy a Polaroid 900 electric eye land camera for pretty cheap ($50 and I can probably talk him down). It appears to be in pristine condition, the bellows are intact, it comes with the manuals and the original flash. The shutter fires, no idea if it’s accurate or not yet. I keep seeing that you can convert these to shoot 120 roll film, but I don’t see HOW to do it? Did/does some company make a back for it? Is it a DIY thing? I can’t seem to find that answer If nothing else it’s a beautiful camera that might be worth just having for that reason E: figured it out, it seems a bit janky no matter if you're loading 4x5 in a dark bag, or pre-spooling 120 and pulling the paper out. drat, I'll see if I can get it for "sit on my shelf and look pretty" money rather than as a camera that I might actually shoot 
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Apr 18, 2024 19:16
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I’ve only ever seen DIY conversion adventures but neither have I looked very hard
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Apr 18, 2024 19:51
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Kentmere 400, Nikkor 105mm f/1.8 Edit: Mama Mia   Father O'Blivion fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Apr 18, 2024 |
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Apr 18, 2024 20:12
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cerious posted:Actually this way is much cooler Holy poo poo.
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Apr 18, 2024 22:27
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| # ? Apr 30, 2024 09:16 |
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 004545280004 by Joseph Harrington, on Flickr  004545280009 by Joseph Harrington, on Flickr  004545280011-Pano by Joseph Harrington, on Flickr  004545280014 by Joseph Harrington, on Flickr  004545270030 by Joseph Harrington, on Flickr 50D is quite nice and so is my new Olympus. These are also professional scans(i got them comped, i never do so ordinarily because of the expense) and it is making me really want to splurge on a high quality dedicated 35mm scanner. There are more than a few in my binder that I would like to see if I can improve with a better scan.
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Apr 19, 2024 21:52
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