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blue squares posted:I'm a little curious about doing film photography, but I feel like it would only be worth it to try if I also dove into doing my own B&W development in my garage, so that the experience truly is different from my beloved R6ii. If I want to just slow down and take photos more carefully, I can just force myself to do so when I am out shooting with made up rules. You can expose a negative as many times as you want but you can only develop it once. Developing is the process of making the film inert as you probably already know. I can't answer your other questions beyond to say b/w is infinitely less complex than colour developing and I was doing b/w dev in a high school course without issue so probably anyone can do it. e: sorry I don't know why I used the word expose, I meant you can make prints any number of times, obv you can only expose a neg in the camera. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Nov 10, 2023 |
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Nov 10, 2023 17:16
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blue squares posted:I think I'm mixing up developing and printing. You develop a negative and then it is what it is. You can scan it digitally (and further edit) to print, or print it from a negative using the traditional non-digital method Yeah sorry I used the wrong word and added an edit to my post. You have it correct here. I've always had a lab dev my film and then I scan it.
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Nov 10, 2023 17:29
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Agreed scanning is boring, printing is fun though! I like being able to get a physical product out of the process I find scanning fun and printing stressful! At least I can get the scan dialed in without spending money.
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Nov 11, 2023 03:48
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carticket posted:I checked the Yashica light meter against that phone app, and they both reported the same. I checked my Zeiss Bullseye against that app and the camera meter read a few stops low. I did some reading from a guy that repairs these cameras and apparently the meters are just awful in the context of modern film speeds and only really good with sub-100 ISO films. I think I used to use that meter, but I can't remember. I'll have to experiment with it once I'm developing my own film again. You also don't know how center-weighted the camera meter is vs the other methods. Just shoot Portra 400 and leave the meters at home!
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Nov 16, 2023 21:11
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I finally bit the bullet and bought Silverfast, since Its on sale through the end of the year. Do you see it if you hold the negative up to the light?
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Dec 30, 2023 07:48
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The issue with the pentax 67 isn't the mass of the camera itself it's if you want to bring a few lenses along. They're all bricks.
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Mar 1, 2024 04:41
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grilledcheese posted:this does make me feel better thank you and so sorry for your losses. Myself and another poster ITT are from Vancouver, I would just say be aware that if you send your camera out of country for service, you'll be charged customs on it when it comes back. I sent my 67 to Eric at pentaxs.com and had to pay an extra $80 on top of the ~$500 repair/CLA. I'm not really aware of a good place for your camera locally but I've been out of the game a couple years.
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Mar 8, 2024 03:37
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 01:52 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I got my film back from my California trip, and I'm disappointed to find that most of them are underexposed. They were all shot on my ME Super on auto mode for simplicities sake, but it looks like either the meter is off in the camera, or the shutter is fast (I'm imagining shutters normally fail to a slower speed, rather than faster?). I'll have to see if I can rescue them in Lightroom. Yes you can test it that way. Ideally the same corrected focal length so you on don't get a different scene to meter. When you say you got your film back, you mean just negatives that you're going to scan right? You're not talking about prints? If it's the latter the negs may be properly exposed.
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Apr 10, 2024 15:42
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