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How do people like digital camera scanning for 35mm? As someone who doesn't own an interchangeable lens digital camera, I like my epson v800 for medium format and I have a plustek 8200i that I've been using for a while for 35mm. The plustek is starting to worry me though, still scanning fine but it's started making some spooky noises when resetting scan position and I'm starting to wonder how much life it's got left. At least 35mm scanning makes more sense to me with a full frame camera if you can go 1:1, doing any sort of stitching for medium format+ sounds frustrating.
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Feb 1, 2024 18:04
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 06:46 |
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Yeah that seems very not worth it. I write off film cameras once I start feeling the hint of not being able to trust them. I would have even less heartbreak over a cheap SLR body. Repair is not worth it unless it's a valuable camera. Sentimental value is overrated. I get it's not great to treat them like they are disposable, but film cameras are dime a dozen and that money can go towards trying out something different that you may like even more. Take it from me, someone who sunk $350 across 2 different repairs + 1 warrantied repair over 5 years on a $400 camera from Japan, just because I didn't think I could've returned it when I first got it (and I realize I totally could've in retrospect). You could even just outright buy film tested gear rather than rolling the dice on new cameras and budgeting some repair for them. Etsy has a whole load of folks who just thrift shop these unused cameras, slap on new light seals, run a test roll, and list it. I've gotten an Olympus XA through there and it worked, I'd trust that a little more than some Japanese Exc+++ [CLA] from eBay. cerious fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Mar 9, 2024 |
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Mar 9, 2024 07:47
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I haven't found cheaper developing than Dexter's Camera and Citizens Photo. Dexter's is probably the cheapest for a decent scan + develop. However I like Citizens a lot, they're local to me and I've had a lot of film developed with them with no development issues. Also paying for scanning sucks. Plustek 8200s are like $400 on Amazon and give a very nice scan for 35mm, much better than whatever standard quality looks like at a normal lab. My scanners have paid for themselves many times over. I just don't mess around with developing because I'd rather not screw up my shots, and the prices at the two labs I mentioned are fairly competitive with self developing considering I don't have any of the equipment and self developing also takes time.
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Mar 13, 2024 19:47
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I have an couple of the film EF Canons, an EOS 3, an Elan 7, and an Elan 7ne. I got the Elan 7 first locally off Craigslist but the flex cable connecting to the back snapped on me once I got it home due to disuse, so I could only use it in AV/TV/P modes which annoyed me enough to replace it recently with an Elan 7ne from eBay (which was also mis-sold as a Elan 7, since it generally goes for a good bit more since it is newer and has eye-focusing). They were both like $50-65 each so quite a bargain for film cameras. The EOS 3 only cost me $300 and came with a big-rear end flash that I haven't used. The EOS 3 is the most similar to the EOS 1N in terms of size and probably reliability too. I took the EOS 3 on a trip to Iceland and it's been my go-to film camera for bad weather forecasts, I've been able to use it in pretty cold weather and it can handle a decent sprinkle. I think the EOS 1v is the biggest step up with weather resistance but it's a fair bit heavier. The meter is really good and I had no issues with any of the shots I took, even on slide film. The AF is also excellent, the EOS 3 has like 45 AF points though so it's a little more advanced there than the 1N. And the flex cable connecting to the back isn't exposed, overall it feels very solidly built and hefty in the hands. My one beef is that in comparison to the Elans, it has a really sensitive shutter button, like there wasn't even a firm half-press to do an AF lock before it would fire off a shot. It's not like Olympus XA levels of "accidental press" but I'm not really wanting to retrain myself to use the AE lock on the back as an AF lock through the custom functions. Not sure if the 1N or 1V have that issue but the Elan 7 shutter buttons are much better. BC error should just be the low battery alarm if it's the same as my EOS 3, unfortunately the 2CR5s are pretty expensive and I actually find they don't last very long if you're using a lens with IS and all that stuff. I definitely keep the batteries out of the camera when I'm storing it for more than a few days. Anyways my priorities have mostly shifted with the EOS system, so I haven't used the EOS 3 in a while. I've been liking the light weight of the Elan 7ne and the 40mm STM. I've been tempted by the 24-105mm which would make a lot more sense on a bigger body like the EOS 3, but I still don't think I'd reach for it as much when in that weight/size class of cameras I have bigger cameras that I'd rather reach for. It would be a great combo for crappy weather but I'm not shooting in those conditions willingly often.
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Mar 30, 2024 19:30
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For the L308S/X-U etc how do you guys meter stuff far away in reflected mode? The manual says it's a 40degree area but I'm not really sure how I should be treating that or what that's analogous to (I guess a moderate center weighted meter?)
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Apr 14, 2024 03:59
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theHUNGERian posted:My experiment with a 6x9 folder in the form of a Bessa II has not worked out as it has a nasty light leak past the focusing mechanism and I am struggling to find someone who is willing to fix it. If I were stupid enough to try another 6x9 folder, is there a more reliable (or easier to fix) model? Or is it all about the reputation of the seller? I wouldn't do a GF670. I loved the camera but I ended up selling mine because it had a very irritating intermittent film flatness issue that I could never conclusively figure out. I posted about it in the MF thread. I actually never had issues with the electronics but it's always something that could have become an issue, I've heard of some of them having issues with battery drain. To top it all off, I've been doing mostly backpacking lately and bringing a GF670 out for extended backcountry trips felt a little too risky. So I got rid of it while I could. It is a pretty stunning camera though when it works. I don't miss the issues but I do miss the photos. The lens is insanely good.    Anyways now I'm just using a GS645S which doesn't fold but it's basically the same size, and a half pound lighter. The lens is pretty good on that one too. It's not too reliable either (I've had it repaired multiple times) but 645 is plenty for when I'm backpacking, and I have a 6x7 camera for when I can carry more weight. But if I ever see a GF670W for a reasonable price, I'll be very tempted to snap it up. Apparently the lens is somehow even better on that one, and to me the lack of folding is now a plus because it'll avoid that film flatness issue.
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Apr 18, 2024 07:10
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VoodooXT posted:If you ever do get a Plaubel Makina 67, be gentle with extending the bellows and make sure it's focused at infinity every time you extend and retract it. The metering wiring is super fragile and is usually the first thing that breaks on them. Actually this way is much cooler https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIHpAEBD4_8&t=2s
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Apr 18, 2024 17:18
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 06:46 |
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theHUNGERian posted:Do you know if this also applies to the GF670W (non-folder, 55 mm lens) or the Voigtlander-branded version of the same camera? The flatness issues I was seeing where always from the center and radiating outwards, which lines up with the bellows sucking up the film off the film plane from the center out (since the most volume is from the center of the lens). So I would assume it doesn't apply to a non-folder.
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Apr 27, 2024 18:12
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