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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Oh god I have no idea what I'm doing!!

Definitely works, powerful Soviet energy, every function feels like a worker and peasant revolution:


Probably works? Much more slick and German-feeling to operate. In hindsight I should not have put a second roll through it before the first one comes back:

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Me with a DSLR: I'll just spam twenty shots of this and trudge through the absolute chore of going through them later in Lightroom

Me with a film camera: is this even worth spending $2 to take a picture of?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Hello again film thread. I bought another even dumber thing:




What kind of speed film should I run in this? Here are the available shutter speeds, lens is 50mm f2.8. I'm unlikely to ever use it outside of daylight conditions:



I'm guessing like 100?

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Apr 7, 2024

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Oh sweet, that's easy enough. I'll give the panF a crack as it's fairly cheap, thanks!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I took my seemingly perfectly functional practika to the marina for a test run, this is the first roll I've had developed from it. Everything seems to function correctly except it looks like the view finder is kinda offset sideways? Idk how to describe it, here are some potato shots of two crappy prints that make it really obvious:



When I took the pic the buoy was totally centered, I don't think this is a skill issue because I don't have a problem with my other camera. I know the lens isn't the issue because again, it works fine on my other camera.



Again the walkway was pretty close to perfectly centred in the viewfinder.

What causes this? Can I fix it somehow?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

a dingus posted:

Is one of your eyes further to the left or right than the other? One of mine is definitely higher than the other, or one leg is shorter because the horizon is never straight on my pictures.

It's got nothing to do with my eyes etc, I have no problems with my other camera. This camera just seems to cut off the left hand edge of the picture when you're looking through the viewfinder. So if you're standing dead center in front of an object it will appear perfectly head on in the photo but off to the right.

I'm not interested in editing or cropping things digitally, the whole reason I switched to film is cause I have no interest in that stuff. But that's neither here nor there. The issue is definitely in the camera because again, I've never had this problem with my other camera at the same lab over the course of a bunch of rolls. I don't really see how the lab could've hosed it up but I'm not that clear on how that side works so maybe. Seems unlikely.

I'm thinking the viewfinder or mirror or something is misaligned somehow? Or it's just east German shityness? It's a fifty year old camera.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Update: looked at the negatives and they were perfectly centered, lab hosed up somehow.

Time to find a new place I guess

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Megabound posted:

If you're doing black and white and really keen on it then home processing is the way to go. It's super cheap and the quality you'll get out of it will surpass any lab you can find. Initial investment for 35mm might look like $400 - $500 of gear (developing gear, chemicals, scanner, negative storage) but at least in Australia that's quickly recouped. My local charges $25 for dev and high res scan, it cost me 4c to process one roll.

It was xp2, so a fair bit cheaper per roll than 'real' BW, but I take your point

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I'm trying to figure out if I have a light leak or if something else is going on.

There's a washed out area on one or both edges of the photo, but only sometimes?

You can see how it comes and goes:













Film is super fun!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Ethics_Gradient posted:

I can sorta see it in that first pic, not so much the others.

Light leaks can vary in how they manifest depending on the location of the leak, conditions, and how long the film sat between shots. For example, you might have left your camera on frame 15 for a couple days, during which you walked around with it around your neck a bunch. One afternoon you take a shot, advance it, then quickly take another (let's say trying a different composition of the same subject) and advance again. If the leak is where the film sits in the chamber, frame 15 will be obliterated from several days exposure, whereas it may not manifest at all in frame 16 because it was only in the film chamber for a second or two.

Something you can try next time to try and troubleshoot is to let the film sit in the chamber for a while in bright afternoon light, and do a long exposure with the lens cap on. Scan that frame and load it into PS or your image editing program of choice, and play around the with the levels/curves until you can see a light leak. Remember that everything will be upside down/mirror image.

Thanks for this advice, I'll give this a go with a couple of frames. It always seems to be on the left hand edge but it doesn't look like light leaks I can find on google, I'm starting to think maybe the shutter is sticking right at the end or something.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Can a range finder sort of fall out of calibration? My old Braun seems to have a discrepancy between the distances on the focusing ring vs the range finder. So like if something is eg 5m away, getting it in focus will have the lens indicating 6.5m or something like that. I haven't been able to actually check if all my shots are coming out unfocused or not because the first roll tore when I tried to rewind it :negative:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I have a dumb question.

Let's say I'm taking a landscape shot with focus set to infinity, using a platonically ideal tripod on a still day, so there is zero camera movement and I have no concerns about achieving a particular DOF.

If I can get the right exposure with both eg 1000 shutter speed and a relatively open aperture vs 500 and a smaller aperture, is there any optical quality reason I'd choose one over the other? Or will both result in identical photos?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

dupersaurus posted:

There’s a certain aperture the lens will be sharpest at so ideally you look up what that is for your lens and set the shutter around that

Oh neat, is there like a rule of thumb for this? Idk if you can look stuff up for really old lenses

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That's great to know, I'll try applying that when I can. Thanks guys.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

lollybo posted:

Wow that is the first place I found to have Velvia actually in stock. 30 dollars for a roll of 35mm is crazy, but I ponied up the cash as who knows when it will be next available…

This is the cost of a normal roll of Kodak here :negative:

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Ok brain, this time we're going to be really measured and selective, no wasting frames on poo poo pictures of dumb bullshit

*ten minutes pass*

How is half my roll gone??

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