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Fomapan or bust
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Nov 10, 2023 03:13
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 14:30 |
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I've been mucking around with a 1938 Leica IIIa I was given. I've chucked the 50mm f2.8 Elmar from 1958 I bought for my IIIg originally, although I have a '49 Summitar which is now almost always mounted to it. These were taken on God's Own Film (Fomapan 100).  The other oddball I have is I recently acquired a Leica M1 - it's an M2 sans rangefinder. I'm not sold on the M over my screwmount Leicas for a stack of reasons (the RF telescope on the screwmounts are great), but I can get why the M has a real following. This was definitely shot on a roll of Fomapan 100, but I can't remember if this is on the f2.8 Elmar or the Jupiter-12. 
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Nov 11, 2023 07:29
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lollybo posted:
Nice camera! I really rate these Barnacks are great user cameras so I don't think you can go wrong with them. The mechanism is extremely simple and really the number of these still kicking around is a real testament to how great they really are. The risk of light leaks are really small - the primary issue will be shutter pinholes or something like that. Anything prior to the Leica IIIc will have some issues with light getting around the baffles if the lens is removed in strong light, but that'll be it. I had a really oddball light leak with my IIIg because some of the vulcanite had come away from between the slow speed dial and the lens mount, as well as from around the lens mount. I just used RTV silicone black to fill it in rather than re-covering the whole thing but that would've worked as well. The advantage of these bottom-loaders is theres just not a lot of ways light can get in. I'll be getting a new mirror/optics clean on the IIIg in the next 12 months - it's not terrible but my IIIa absolutely smokes it regarding how nice the RF telescope is. The most annoying thing for me was doing the vertical alignment on the RF for the IIIg - there's not a lot of documentation as it's a bit more of an oddball Barnack but I ended up turning the prism with a toothpick and now it's awesome. e: the biggest trick is loading, for sure. It took a few rolls to get "the touch" but now it's dead simple to get the roll, pull it so it's 22 sprocket holes long, cut a 20 sprocket hole leader, and then seating the film. It's to the point where I can change film in and out and not lose a frame as long as it's going into another Barnack. Recoome fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Nov 12, 2023 |
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Nov 12, 2023 05:17
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I think halation blobs look neat in black and white - esp around candles n poo poo
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Nov 12, 2023 05:50
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big black turnout posted:How do you deal with inversions when it's going to be taking the film totally out of the liquid? Buddy, I develop 4x5 in a Paterson tank with no holders!!
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Nov 13, 2023 07:23
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I live in a post metering, post focus world It’s called art sweaty look it up
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Nov 17, 2023 04:26
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lollybo posted:Just got a test roll developed from my 1950s Leica IIIF. No light leaks, and my exposures generally looked good though a few may be off by a stop or two. I generally relied on the sunny 16 rule, and a light meter on my cell phone when the scene has difficult lighting or too high of a dynamic range. These look really good. I didn't do amazingly on the first few rolls of my IIIg because I was including too much sky in my metering which meant that at times some parts of the picture was too dark. Here's me mucking around with my IIIg using the 50mm Summitar. Some mates and I shot a roll to a theme around nature in hidden places, so naturally I went to a really lush area near me that's a little off the beaten track and took photos using Ferrania P30.    
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Nov 25, 2023 06:19
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Outside of Leicas what are some good rangefinders? I wanna get one for my carry everywhere camera since my Dynax 9 is a big ol’ tank that makes it hard to constantly have on me. I’m big into Minoltas so I was looking at the CLE but I’m open to all suggestions really. I want to compare my options before I drop money on one For LTM, I really rate the Canons. The Canon Barnacks are better than the Leica versions. The Zorkis/Feds are also great. For fixed lens, I have a soft spot for the Yashica RFs. I have an Electro but I picked up a Lynx 14E for a mate and it’s the bees knees. While the Electro has a respectable f1.7 lens, the Lynx has a f1.4 lens and it’s absolute crisp. The advantage the Lynx has is that it’s purely mechanical and a 45mn focal length is great on a rangefinder.
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Nov 25, 2023 20:36
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lollybo posted:I like all your photos, but especially this one- I liked the chiaroscuro as well as the subtle subject of the woman in the middle. Which film did you use to take this one? I used Ferrania P30. It’s nominally 80 Iso but I’m not super sure.
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Nov 30, 2023 04:44
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a dingus posted:So I decided that slide film wasn't expensive enough for me and I wanted to try and make some videos. Does anyone mess around with 16mm? Is there a film or video thread? This is a Bell & Howell 70DR. Before Bell & Howell became some as-seen-on-TV brand that sells old people garbage they don't need they actually made some nice cameras. Apparently this one is the VW beetle of movie cameras, being designed in the 1920s and produced relatively unchanged until the 1970s. Haha I literally have just done the same thing, except with a Filmo 70DL. I’ll post more about it when it arrives.
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Dec 25, 2023 22:13
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Admiral Bosch posted:
I know everyone is gushing about the lightmeter but I'm a fan of the VIOOH universal finder. I was originally looking for a KMZ turret finder because they increase/decrease the mag for the focal length but I found a VIOOH for cheaper so went with that. It's pretty bright given the age and apparently easier to clean. The ONLY downside is that you really are looking at the light at the end of the tunnel when using the 135mm setting.
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Dec 27, 2023 22:30
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lollybo posted:I bought a color skopar 35 2.5 for my IIIf. Ended up making one of those viewfinders from a scavenged Canon owl. I love the mix of old and less old, German and Japanese. Something cool about using glass made in 2000s with a camera where you still have to cut the film leaders, and the highest ISO rating recorded is 100. I'm interested in how the pictures will turn out. I have two pictures, one with the lens hood and one without. Is it kosher to walk around with a UV filter for lens protection without a cap over it and using the filter alone for protection? My seller was nice enough to include 3 nice UV filters. I'm thinking of wearing it under my jacket as well. It’s best practice to cap your lens for these older Leicas. The reason why is that the shutters are light resistant at best and light can leak around the shutter if the light is bright enough. The sun can also damage the cloth shutters so it’s just better to cap the lens when not shooting.
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Jan 15, 2024 20:58
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Megabound posted:This is why the Canon VL is the superior LTM rangefinder Completely 100% agree. The Canon III/IVsb etc. even follow the form of the classic Barnack and don't require accessory finders for focal lengths longer than 50mm. Hell, even the Yashica YE or whatever has an advance lever. Absolutely unreal. Megabound posted:I'm just poo poo stirring Reccome as he's a Barnack boy but yes, shoot what makes you happy. I never got along with rangefinders in 35mm but use a Moskva-5 for 6x9 which has separate focus and viewfinder window and it's fine and good. Most importantly it's small for a 6x9 so I can carry it everywhere. That Moskva-5 is an extremely pro camera, many/any MF folders are awesome for the compactness they offer.
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Jan 16, 2024 08:59
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Also when it comes to the old Leica shutters, yes the sun can damage it but the biggest impact is the light getting around the edges of the baffling/ shutter crate and fogging the film. This is especially true given people shoot film that would be considered ultra high speed relative to what was being used in the 1930s. The Leica M has much better light baffling and shutter design which limits light getting around the curtain. The IIIg and IIIf are the best of the screw mounts, with the IIIc being slightly better than the IIIa and so on. Again, the shutters are not light tight, rather they are very light resistant. This is so apparent that you really shouldn’t change the lens on the older Leicas in bright light as you risk fogging the film a bit. The solution is either to just cap your lens or shoot slower film.
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Jan 16, 2024 09:10
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grilledcheese posted:Piss into my camera, got it. Hey HEY it’s no Nikonos, bub
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Jan 17, 2024 03:35
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spookygonk posted:
Price of film these days smdh
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Feb 14, 2024 21:22
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I found that Phoenix 200 really really turns yellow during golden hour - and not in a super great way. I took some golden hour pics that would pop on Gold or ColorPlus get that yellow tint.
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Feb 16, 2024 13:42
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It’s fine
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Mar 4, 2024 04:23
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a dingus posted:I finally have some footage to share from my 16mm motion picture camera and I have to say making movies is really dang cool. Here's a sloppily edited clip I got of two friends skiing down a hill at an air BNB, synced with audio from a phone. Shot on my bell & Howell filmo 70dr This looks great - I have a Filmo 70DL with a 17mm B&H, 25mm Angenieux f0.95, and some Kodak 68mm f2.7. I’ll get an actual 75mm Angenieux but overall it’s a very solid camera with great stability of the image relative to the K-3 which bounces a bit more.
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Mar 5, 2024 02:59
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I veeeerryyyy nearly bought a Bolex but it’s hard to justify rn given how nice the Filmo is.
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Mar 5, 2024 03:46
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The biggest limitation to using my 16mm Filmo 70 is the fact that 250 iso is wayyyy too sensitive to shoot in bright light and I haven't collected the right kit to standardise the filters etc. I'll pick up a 75mm Angenieux lens next so I can use the same 39mm as my 25mm f.095 (I think) and that'll give me 2 of the 3 lenses but I wish I could get 50-100 iso b/w 16mm film easily in Australia.
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Mar 14, 2024 12:22
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Honestly I shoot Fomapan 400 at 400 and it’s fine. It’ll be grainier than modern Tri-X or HP5 but will look closer to old Tri-X. You can shoot at 320 and dev at 400 if you want to bring out the shadows a tad more. Like I get the “true ISO” thing but I think people worry about it too much and it’s honestly fine.
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Mar 24, 2024 00:45
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I have a Retina II from '49 - it's a great camera overall but it has a 50mm f2 Rodenstock Heligon so it suffers from flare at times. Extremely compact and a great one to carry around for candids and street. Bit harder to zone focus as it's got a scale on the bottom.
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Mar 30, 2024 11:45
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amazing prints as always!!!
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Apr 27, 2024 07:26
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dupersaurus posted:What would y’all suggest as a low-entry 35mm rangefinder? Zorki 4 or similar. The earlier Zorki 1 is imho better but it requires you to trim the film leader and people can be a bit afraid of doing that. The Z-4 is basically the same but better. You can literally learn anything you need about photography with these basically manual RFs and it definitely hooked me into Rangefinders.
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May 4, 2024 23:59
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 14:30 |
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Depends on the lens but f8/f11 is fine.
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May 6, 2024 01:31
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