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blue squares posted:Why is scanning so unenjoyable? Tedious, mostly. I got through a big backlog of medium format scanning between jobs ten years ago by binging the better part of seven seasons of Mad Men while I did it. For your original query, as others have said it's super easy to develop your own B&W film at home. Maybe $50-100 of chemicals and stuff to get started, which would fit into the volume of roughly a milk crate. If you have the garage space, you can buy one of those hydroponic grow tents to leave set up as a darkroom and can dive into doing your own b&w prints. Obviously darkroom printing is more space and money intensive, but after being a hybrid "home develop then scan" guy for like 15 years I've finally seen the (safe)light. I do not enjoy scanning and do enjoy playing around in the darkroom. You can usually piece together a setup on CL or Marketplace for a couple hundred bucks. If you don't have the space for a grow tent, Ilford makes a pop-up darkroom tent that's usually on special at B&H for $200. I have one, it works well. Just caved and ordered the 6x6 carrier for the Beseler I picked up at a garage sale a month or two ago on eBay. Still waiting on my enlarging lenses to show up in the post (mailed them to myself international sea mail...) but should be ready to go once they do. VelociBacon posted:You can expose a negative as many times as you want but you can only develop it once. Coming in with the "WELL ACKSHUALLY" that you can redevelop negatives with an intensifier, but it's pretty niche and very uncommon to do.
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Nov 10, 2023 17:48
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blue squares posted:you'd need a tent for the printing, though, (I think) which to me seems like the most fun part (speaking as someone whose understanding of film developing comes from watching movies where characters stand in a red-lit darkroom and hold up strips of negatives) Yeah, it's the best. Aside from pulling the finished film off the reel and looking at your negatives for the first time, developing film isn't particularly interesting or engaging (I do know a guy who develops his 8x10 sheet film by sight with an IR monocular  ) since you're basically just watching a timer and pouring stuff in and out of the tank, the real fun and creativity comes from being in the darkroom. LimaBiker posted:I made my own darkroom tent for use in my bedroom. I screwed a strong hook into the ceiling from which i can suspend a collapsible wooden frame. Over that frame i drape a large cloth tent. I wanted to have the ilford tent, but for some reason that's closer to 300 euro here which is excessive, and i didn't think of the weed grow tent until the thing was finished. That's pretty cool, I'd love to see pics of it next time you have it set up! 300 Euro is roughly the US MSRP, B&H just seems to knock ~$120 off the price randomly for long stretches, I'm guessing maybe as a loss leader to get you to buy the rest of your darkroom stuff from them.
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Nov 10, 2023 19:00
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I tried home C-41 using my bathtub as a temperature bath ~10 years ago when I lived in Japan and the results were discouraging - some rolls turned out OK, but others had weird blotching and other issues stuff (sometimes it was kind of cool, but I want controllable results). This is with (IIRC) a 6 bath C-41 kit though, I understand there are 3 bath kits that are easier nowadays. I do kinda want to try it again now that I've got a colour darkroom setup, also RA-4 reversal. But for now, B&W and wet plate are plenty for me!
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Nov 10, 2023 20:43
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big black turnout posted:You're welcome. I have the exact same one at home and the black one at work. You can just fill it part way up. Personally I'm lazy and have only developed a single roll of film like, 2-3 times in 15+ years.
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Nov 13, 2023 05:20
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Megabound posted:Counterpoint Haha, that's awesome. I've been thinking about a Canon 7 for a long time (hung onto all my old LTM glass when I sold my Bessa years ago) but the lack of a cold shoe to mount one of those meters was a bit of a drag.
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Nov 17, 2023 04:11
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Outside of Leicas what are some good rangefinders? I wanna get one for my carry everywhere camera since my Dynax 9 is a big ol’ tank that makes it hard to constantly have on me. I’m big into Minoltas so I was looking at the CLE but I’m open to all suggestions really. I want to compare my options before I drop money on one The Canon 7 or P is great value for money. It does limit you to the screw mount lenses, but there are plenty of good ones.
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Nov 25, 2023 20:15
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Recoome posted:I know everyone is gushing about the lightmeter but I'm a fan of the VIOOH universal finder. I was originally looking for a KMZ turret finder because they increase/decrease the mag for the focal length but I found a VIOOH for cheaper so went with that. It's pretty bright given the age and apparently easier to clean. The ONLY downside is that you really are looking at the light at the end of the tunnel when using the 135mm setting. That’s just 135mm on a rangefinder though, the 90mm frame lines on a regular VF are like a postage stamp (with parallax).
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Dec 28, 2023 04:49
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lollybo posted:Is it kosher to walk around with a UV filter for lens protection without a cap over it and using the filter alone for protection? My seller was nice enough to include 3 nice UV filters. I'm thinking of wearing it under my jacket as well. I am comparatively pretty cavalier with my gear so take this with a grain of salt, but a hood is usually all the protection I bother with when carry a camera around. It keeps your fingers/other objects off the glass, and provides some impact protection, while not compromising image quality (and helping with flare). If it gets in the way of your RF (hard to tell from the picture, but looks like it might), I'd buy a cheap plastic one on AliExpress and make a cutout for it. Megabound posted:Over the past few weeks I've been taking the steps to get into dry plate photography and jumped straight into coating my own plates. I shot my first "successful" one today. Out of 4 plates I shot 1 exposure test (cause I need to figure out how sensitive my emulsion is) 1 photo and smashed 2 when they fell out of the holder in the camera. Nice work! What'd you land on for the ISO?
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Jan 14, 2024 18:54
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Megabound posted:About 1 but I didn't get to shoot enough to really nail it down. It'll also change with time of day and cloud cover thanks to the ortho emulsion Definitely - are you doing the step test method with the darkslide? SoundMonkey posted:What's the most well regarded C41-but-it's-B&W film at the moment? Still the Ilford one? I have a local group wanting to do a ~black and white shoot~, but I ain't really about sending it out to a better lab than we have here. And yeah I know you can do it all in post etc but these people are on a MISSION to be artsy. If you've got even a passing interest in doing B&W in the future, it might be worth it to grab a setup for developing your own. You can sometimes find little kits on Marketplace with a changing bag/tank. B&W is pretty forgiving and the chems generally have a long shelf life.
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Jan 15, 2024 18:12
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grilledcheese posted:i got some film developed at a lab from my trip to nepal last year. there's a white horizontal line on the negative from a certain number of rolls. Is that from the camera or the lab? I noticed they're roughly in the same location as the plastic sleeve thing they stored the developed negatives in. These are nice! There are two main possibilities for the scratch: either there's a little rough spot where the film travels across the back of your camera, or the lab had a rough spot on their scanner (the commercial ones usually feed 35mm in as one long strip, you don't get this problem with flatbeds). Trying another lab is a good way to check, you can also feel with your fingertip inside the camera to see if you can find anything there; the location of where it is on the frame should help you, but remember it's upside down. For getting rid of it (as well as dust, hairs, etc) a graphics tablet is a game-changer. Load up a good podcast, pour yourself a beverage of your choice, and have at it.
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Jan 15, 2024 19:54
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Recoome posted:It’s best practice to cap your lens for these older Leicas. The reason why is that the shutters are light resistant at best and light can leak around the shutter if the light is bright enough. The sun can also damage the cloth shutters so it’s just better to cap the lens when not shooting. Oh, forgot about this! Uncapped lenses can burn a hole through cloth shutters, though I think in practice this probably doesn't happen too often. Megabound posted:I'm just poo poo stirring Reccome as he's a Barnack boy but yes, shoot what makes you happy. I never got along with rangefinders in 35mm but use a Moskva-5 for 6x9 which has separate focus and viewfinder window and it's fine and good. Most importantly it's small for a 6x9 so I can carry it everywhere. I have a Mamiya-Six (the old one from the 50's with integrated lens) coming later this week, was buying a bunch of other stuff on Yahoo! Auctions and made the mistake of looking at camera stuff. Integrated RF/VF with weird focal plane focusing, hell yeah.
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Jan 16, 2024 06:28
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Admiral Bosch posted:Gang. I was thinking about picking up an Ultron 35 aspherical for mine but I decided to upgrade my collapsible soviet 50mm instead. Nice! I have been meaning to get a Canon 7 or P but can't really justify the expense right now. Even though I've already got a Jupiter 8 and a Canon 50mm 1.2 in LTM already that have been gathering dust since I sold my Bessa and switched to Fuji AF lenses on my mirrorless, I'd still probably pay extra for one that came with the 50 1.4, because I think it's probably the platonic ideal compromise on size/quality/cost. Let me know if you want to go out for a rangefinder shoot sometime! Am in Denver and just took delivery of a Mamiya Six (the cheap, older fixed lens one) I'd like to run a test roll through. I can develop a roll of 35mm for you if you've got any B&W, although my scanner is currently in need of repair.
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Jan 18, 2024 23:30
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Admiral Bosch posted:Lab question: I have an itch to pick up some Ilford 3200 as I like two things: shooting handheld in available light and visible grain. Internet suggests that the "actual sensitivity" of the film is ISO 1000. So if I rate it at 3200 on my meter, what do I mark on the film canister/lab order form? Is that pushed? As I understand it, basically the push on those kinds of film is baked into the developing time specified by the manufacturer. So as long as the lab is marginally competent, should be fine. You'd only need to put special instructions if you push/pulled the exposure (eg shot it at actual 1000, or pushed it to 6400, etc)
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Jan 25, 2024 17:27
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dema posted:We have any opinion on buying used camera gear from Japan via eBay? I'm seeing excellent condition Nikon F4 bodies for ~$200, shipped, from sellers with good feedback. Versus $350 from Keh. They yen is crazy weak right now, so Japanese sellers are quite happy to sell to deep-pocketed (from their perspective) international buyers. A lot of them will overstate the quality/condition of what they have, so look carefully at the pictures. You have to budget for return shipping if you are dissatisfied. I've been happy with Buyee (a proxy service) for buying on Yahoo! Auctions, which is basically Japanese eBay. It's a lot less well-known internationally so prices tend to be lower than eBay. I always skip the inspection/warranty though, so can't comment on what happens if you need a return. A nice thing about them is they offer a package consolidation service if you're buying multiple things. I bought a Mamiya Six (the old, fixed lens one) 6x6 folder for $30 on there earlier this month.
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Jan 29, 2024 22:56
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afen posted:I got another OM-2 for a song, and it seems like there's some light leak issues. I've ordered new seals from eBay, but I wonder if worn light seals could cause underexposed photos? I would guess shutter speeds being off before light meter calibration for most cameras.
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Apr 11, 2024 23:30
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May just go local if the price differential isn't too bad, but who do people like for C-41 developing in the US these days? Low cost is main criteria, and I have my own scanner (that I need to get around to fixing).
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Apr 12, 2024 18:40
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theHUNGERian posted:My experiment with a 6x9 folder in the form of a Bessa II has not worked out as it has a nasty light leak past the focusing mechanism and I am struggling to find someone who is willing to fix it. If I were stupid enough to try another 6x9 folder, is there a more reliable (or easier to fix) model? Or is it all about the reputation of the seller? Yeah, I’d go either a Moskva or a Super Ikonta.
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Apr 18, 2024 04:29
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Slavvy posted:I'm trying to figure out if I have a light leak or if something else is going on. I can sorta see it in that first pic, not so much the others. Light leaks can vary in how they manifest depending on the location of the leak, conditions, and how long the film sat between shots. For example, you might have left your camera on frame 15 for a couple days, during which you walked around with it around your neck a bunch. One afternoon you take a shot, advance it, then quickly take another (let's say trying a different composition of the same subject) and advance again. If the leak is where the film sits in the chamber, frame 15 will be obliterated from several days exposure, whereas it may not manifest at all in frame 16 because it was only in the film chamber for a second or two. Something you can try next time to try and troubleshoot is to let the film sit in the chamber for a while in bright afternoon light, and do a long exposure with the lens cap on. Scan that frame and load it into PS or your image editing program of choice, and play around the with the levels/curves until you can see a light leak. Remember that everything will be upside down/mirror image.
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Apr 30, 2024 03:33
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big black turnout posted:Speaking of, I just finished a roll of velvia yesterday. Shot it mostly around my apartment complex's pool over a couple days of being out there with kids and friends swimming and barbecuing. Velvia is uh, not the best for skin tones.
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May 14, 2024 02:59
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I know we all complain about the price of film and the cost of development and all that, but also, who here will just blow through the end of the roll so they can either move on to a new film stock, get the roll developed or otherwise get it out of their camera for whatever reason? This is why I always go back to my Hasselblad. Being able to swap between backs mid roll is just so nice.
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May 17, 2024 01:38
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