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tuna
Jul 17, 2003

grilledcheese posted:

i got my roll developed and it looks like the problem is indeed with my camera:

Looking at the pictures I see 2 very similar lines in the camera that would line up to the upsidedown lines of your photo. Like there's a molding burr on the plastic there.



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tuna
Jul 17, 2003

doomisland posted:

Finally dipping into scanning my own film with the v600 i bought 4 years ago. Silverfast seems to be extremely jank, dust and hair everywhere, but at least everything seems sharp so thats good.

I've been struggling along with the V600 for a few years. I'm no expert but here's my take:

Dust removal: I've got cats and can get very low dust rates, so its possible. Use the rocket blower things, wear the white cotton gloves while handling. Just remove the dust any way that doesn't scratch it, the gloves wont leave oils or scratch the film while handling especially if its some annoying curly poo poo. Choose your film drying area with some common sense and throw it into the archival sleeves asap.

Film holder: The default ones work but they are frustrating, flimsy and janky to use. Lomography DigitaLIZA is actually much nicer to use, but youll only be able to scan 6x 35mm exposures at once but you'll also get 90% of the perf area too which is nice for tone adjustments since you can see the unexposed parts of the film and the pure, no-light holes. Add some small slices of gaff tape or similar to the top of the folding clamp areas that contact the perf area of film so it clamps it stronger and doesn't just slip out if you are shooting curly film (I'm looking at you, Tri-x). I've tried adapting Epson film holders from other scanners with anti-newton glass and that poo poo doesn't work for the V600.

Silverfast: It's jank as gently caress so just scan as DNGs or TIFF and fix in PS/Lightroom. Epsonscan is not terrible but being forced into JPGs right at the scanner level is a bad workflow in my opinion, especially because the previews aren't super accurate. DNG/TIFFs hold way more depth than this scanner can give it. Silverfast also might not have the built-in emulsion curves you are shooting (e.g. delta3200, etc) so get all the bit depth you can at scan and tweak later.

tuna
Jul 17, 2003

Beve Stuscemi posted:

Will the digitaliza work with the lower end Epson scanners that only have a slot for the top light? Does the 600 light the entire top platen?

Enough to use the Digitaliza

tuna
Jul 17, 2003

More of a store to visit if you get the chance, but the Leica LA store, obviously not a store for a spur-of-the moment lens purchase and I don't think they really care about selling film itself there (obviously they have some behind the counter) but it's their flagship store to oogle impossibly expensive cameras and has a really nice gallery on the 2nd story and a good book collection to buy from I believe.

[e] There are also obviously camera megastores like Samy's camera that are worth checking out. A fun novelty but on the miracle mile there's a now closed camera store that has a huge camera facade that is very LA if you are in that area, it was called the darkroom but its now some douchey event space so you cant go in.


Someone else might have better recommendations on niche cool film stores - I'm also interested to find some.

tuna fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Mar 19, 2024

tuna
Jul 17, 2003

Beve Stuscemi posted:

Is there a good guide on starting B&W development for someone who’s never done it?

I have a few rolls of ilford sitting around and it might be fun to develop them myself

Pick a developer you like the looks of and suits your development style first, i.e. looks, shelf life, cost, etc. Then, honestly, youtube and google has tons of walkthrough videos for all of them. There's a small startup cost with the paterson tank, changing bag, developer, (usually can ignore stop - use water), fix, then a few speciality hooks to dry and straighten with, which are absolutely worth it. Once you have all that you're a whole lab.
My take is that development is a pretty flexible process, dont stress the exact seconds, temp and agitation process too too much, it'll develop. Do stress the drying and dust-mitigation and handling of the film once its developed.
[e] For example I'm lazy and inconsistent so I like Rodinal. When that runs out I'm definitely experimenting with Diafine to see how lazy you can be.

tuna fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Apr 4, 2024

tuna
Jul 17, 2003

dupersaurus posted:

What would y’all suggest as a low-entry 35mm rangefinder?

Leica m6

But seriously a Canon P or some model of Canon 7 are sturdy things. Canon made some excellent lenses for them and it's all LTM so you have lots of other lens options. And of course LTM > M mount adapters are seamless when you eventually just get the m6.

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tuna
Jul 17, 2003

I'm never disappointed if I accidentally order the 24 exposure rolls for this exact reason. In fact I prefer them for most things except my staple hp5 stuff which I'll be using 90% of the time.

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