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Glad to be on page one of the new thread! Got into photography when my wife was pregnant with our first, wanted to document her progress and then kiddo when they arrived. Started off with a Fujifilm X100V (managed to get in before the hype train took off). It's a lot of fun and takes wonderful photos but I found myself shutter spamming and after 6 months or so I wanted to try out film as an alternative to get me to slow down. Was able to find a used Canon AE-1 with four lenses for $175 on Craigslist, which in retrospect is an okay-ish deal, I think. I've had a lot of fun with it in the last ~two years and have expanded to developing black and white at home, using an OpticFilm 8200i SE and processing in Negative Lab Pro through LRC. I think I'm slowly getting better. Switching to a camera with manual focus was tricky, and it's especially tricky to try and take photographs of a toddler and now newborn with that. So that was a perfect excuse to buy a Nikon F4 and a Nikkor 50mm f1.8 D, which arrived last month. The seller was nice enough to include a dealer's brochure for the F4 from the early 90s, which is a cool memento. I've only gotten through a single roll of Delta 3200 at the moment but the photos look wonderful. Anyway, that's my spiel, looking forward to the discussion here 
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Nov 10, 2023 16:20
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 09:13 |
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Does anyone have experience here developing 35mm Tri-X with Rodinal? Just looking for general feedback (ie, “don’t do it” if it looks like rear end) and thoughts on dilution, time, agitation, etc. The roll was shot at box speed on an AE-1 with the 50mm 1.8, I’ll be developing in a Paterson developing tank with Ilford fixer. Scanning at home with an 8200i and processing in NLP.
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Feb 16, 2024 16:40
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big black turnout posted:I don't directly but it looks fine https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=Tri-x%20rodinal%2035mm These look lovely! Hopefully it works out for me. I think I have some nice exposures on this roll but nothing that I'd be absolutely heartbroken about if I lost the negatives. Normally I'd stick with my trusty D76 but my current batch is almost a year old and it's seemingly harder to find D76 these days. I know there are alternatives but I bought the Rodinal a while back and the sealed bottle is just sitting in my closet.
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Feb 16, 2024 18:04
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I ended up just going for it since I had some spare time this morning. 1+50, 13:00 @ 67F, Ilfostop and Kodafix. Honestly the images look lovely; the ones that don't are because I was a little too optimistic with my perceived lighting (i.e. the indoors ones with artificial lighting at night look kinda crappy). But the ones taken outdoors look good. I'd share except my photos are basically all of my family. I will say, I was a little nervous when I drained the tank of developer and the water was purple. I did not know about that effect with Rodinal (or at least Rodinal + Tri-X) and so I thought I had melted my film or something. I'll probably try again with a roll of HP5 just for kicks given that I have a whole bottle of the stuff and it apparently keeps relatively well. I did notice that B&H had the D76 powder back in stock (that wasn't the case a few weeks back), so I went ahead and ordered some to have on hand just in case. Thanks for the feedback everyone!
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Feb 16, 2024 23:13
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I bought an entry level Sekonic on eBay that I use for incident readings and it works well. Now that I’ve read the zone theory book, I’m having spot meter related GAS symptoms and have my eye on vintage Pentax stuff. We’ll see if I make that jump though
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Apr 12, 2024 17:48
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toadee posted:One thing about zone theory/Ansel Adams' specific use of it - it really is focused on adjusting development for what zone you place the shadows and highlights on. This was possible for Ansel to do because he was developing one sheet at a time, and because he had done exhaustive and extensive experimentation developing test shots and measuring density in highlight and shadow areas with the results. If you don't have those constants dialed in, and/or you aren't able to adjust development to retain highlight detail even with very extremely zoned highlights, then there isn't really much gained from adhering to it. Spot meters are still useful, but just for the general knowledge/interest of the thread, it's good to note that really what you're doing is trying to meter around to find the exposure settings that are going to land the most stuff you want to retain a lot of detail of in that nice +/- two stop range, because you're almost certainly shooting a roll that you're just going to develop to some general standard. Honestly, given that 80% of what I take pictures of is my kids, the only real takeaway I've put into practice is to expose their skin tone in Zone VI instead of V (i.e., just overexposing a stop off of what the meter says against their face). My AE-1 has a modern battery which I believe throws off the in-camera meter. It feels like it works correctly otherwise, which is why I bought the Sekonic in the first place. My F4 appears to have an accurate meter which is nice and it's let me let go of the Sekonic in most situations. VoodooXT posted:I have a Sekonic L758Cine that I use for work since that's pretty much the standard in the film industry, but I just bought a Sekonic L308S to use as a backup/walk around light meter when I shoot on one of my film cameras without a light meter (Zeiss Super Ikonta and Bronica S2A). I've found using the incident meter for my film photography to be more enjoyable and more consistent than using any of my in-camera meters. I just take incident measurements with my hand shading the dome to mimic taking a reading in shade and that's what I set my aperture and shutter speed settings to and it's worked out really well. Funnily enough, the L308S is the same model I use! Pretty solid little meter.
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Apr 13, 2024 05:20
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 09:13 |
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cerious posted:For the L308S/X-U etc how do you guys meter stuff far away in reflected mode? The manual says it's a 40degree area but I'm not really sure how I should be treating that or what that's analogous to (I guess a moderate center weighted meter?) I've just given up using it in reflected mode because I don't have the confidence that I'm metering what I want to from a distance without being able to see.
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Apr 14, 2024 23:21
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