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I painted some terminators      Blast from the past.    Him and his small adult son.  It's interesting to paint these minis that are products of design processes over 3 decades apart. The core design has clearly been carried over - there's the weird notch in the inner shoulder pad that's on the RT-era captain that has carried over to the newer models. The detail on the older model is definitely less well defined and much more flat, though there is certainly no shortage of detail - the skull-rivets and skull-codpiece are really something and there's are a few orders of magnitude more skulls in the RT captain compared to the modern guy.
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Mar 25, 2024 12:41
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mellonbread posted:Painted my first miniature: a Leonidas smartgunner from SYNDICAT, along with a C4T multipurpose robot. For a first miniature that is really very good. Well done.
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Mar 25, 2024 16:11
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Maybe everyone have already seen it, but the golden demon winners for adepticon are out https://www.warhammer-community.com/2024/03/24/golden-demon-2024-winners-revealed-at-adepticon/ The slayer sword piece is absolutely insane
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Mar 25, 2024 19:10
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Bohemian Nights posted:Maybe everyone have already seen it, but the golden demon winners for adepticon are out Was wondering in the BL thread if it's 3D printed. I'm assuming 3D prints are allowed if you did the sculpting yourself? Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Mar 25, 2024 |
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Mar 25, 2024 19:19
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Z the IVth posted:I painted some terminators Woah they look badass. Love the weathering
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Mar 25, 2024 19:27
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Z the IVth posted:I painted some terminators 
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Mar 25, 2024 19:38
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Z the IVth posted:I painted some terminators absolutely amazing stuff!
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Mar 25, 2024 19:51
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Bohemian Nights posted:Maybe everyone have already seen it, but the golden demon winners for adepticon are out It is amazing. I wonder if the illusion of the reflection holds from other angles or only directly on as it is photographed. I’d also like to know more about the composition. In particular the posing of the banshee which seems a bit odd with her back to the vamp. Incredible though.
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Mar 25, 2024 20:16
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Bohemian Nights posted:Maybe everyone have already seen it, but the golden demon winners for adepticon are out Wow, those look unreal. How do you even get paint to be so smooth. Also like 90% of the metals are NMM. I guess I should add that skill all the way down on my list of things to learn...
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Mar 25, 2024 20:47
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NMM allows you to control light and shade in a way that reflective flake paints generally only approximate. That isn't to say you have to use NMM to reach a contest-winning level - many GD winners do not! - but rather that you need to go beyond simply letting the paint do all the work much of the time.
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Mar 25, 2024 20:52
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Bohemian Nights posted:Maybe everyone have already seen it, but the golden demon winners for adepticon are out Yeah the slayer sword winner is absolutely deserving and incredible from concept to execution. My jaw dropped when I saw it.
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Mar 25, 2024 20:54
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Oh cool. I see that a familiar painting tuber Ninjon got bronze with the Age of Sigmar It is a pretty cool looking posse.
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Mar 25, 2024 20:56
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Cardboard Fox posted:Wow, those look unreal. How do you even get paint to be so smooth. Ya OSL and NMM look to be the things you need to absolutely fuckin nail no questions asked when it comes to going for a Golden Demon these days.
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Mar 25, 2024 20:57
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Cardboard Fox posted:Wow, those look unreal. How do you even get paint to be so smooth. You don't need to learn NMM if you're not painting display models. NMM can often look funky in real life when you're not looking at it from the intended angle (esp if you're painting gaming miniatures).
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Mar 25, 2024 21:27
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NMM has been around long enough that even when you see it on gaming minis, your brain just goes 'oh yeah, metal, right' and moves on.
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Mar 25, 2024 21:30
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AndyElusive posted:Ya OSL and NMM look to be the things you need to absolutely fuckin nail no questions asked when it comes to going for a Golden Demon these days. You don't need to nail OSL, either; most models don't have a source of radiant light on the model or the base. You do absolutely need to nail lighting, whether it's from a torch, glowing plasma, or simply the (implied) noonday sun. OSL just challenges lighting techniques that don't think much about the source of light, or treat every model as diffusely lit from every direction.
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Mar 25, 2024 21:44
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Yeast posted:NMM has been around long enough that even when you see it on gaming minis, your brain just goes 'oh yeah, metal, right' and moves on. Yeah. NMM a cool way to spice up your characters and doing simpler versions of it doesn't take that much time.
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Mar 25, 2024 21:50
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Issaries posted:Yeah. NMM a cool way to spice up your characters and doing simpler versions of it doesn't take that much time. If nothing else the technique for NMM is the same as that for power weapons.
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Mar 25, 2024 22:43
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Z the IVth posted:If nothing else the technique for NMM is the same as that for power weapons. Yeah. It's annoying as hell right up until you get it to work the first couple times, then basic NMM is pretty easy, and the hard part is putting in the absurdly large amount of practice to level it up.
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Mar 25, 2024 22:49
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NinjaDebugger posted:Yeah. It's annoying as hell right up until you get it to work the first couple times, then basic NMM is pretty easy, and the hard part is putting in the absurdly large amount of practice to level it up. The actual laying down the paint part isn't hard. You can get better blends and more fine control with practice but actually grokking where to put the lights and darks is the hard part. I cheat by using a mantra of always light next to dark but it doesn't hold up on more complicated objects.
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Mar 25, 2024 22:57
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I was at Adepticon and took a class from Marco Frisoni, and wound up hanging out with him a couple times after. What an absolutely wonderful, wonderful person, and absolutely phenominnal teacher. Turns out he's pretty good at painting too. I also entered some stuff in Resin Beast, and got a top 10 in small figure, and best in category for diorama.... I'm quite shocked and happy. Lumpy fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Mar 25, 2024 |
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Mar 25, 2024 23:07
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Lumpy posted:HELLO GUYSS Yeah, he comes across as an incredibly genuine dude.
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Mar 25, 2024 23:31
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That owns. I watch a ton of his videos and have a pile of random different kinds of oils and inks cause of him.
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Mar 25, 2024 23:39
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It’s really good to know at least one of my heros is a good guy. Would love to get in some of his classes someday. But already he has shown me so much.
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Mar 25, 2024 23:48
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I like how colourful his winning LOTR entry is. Guy loves colour and his videos are full of great tips.
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Mar 26, 2024 00:07
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Anyone have any experience modifying the characteristics of Golden crackle medium? Even the thinnest application results in platelets that are just too large for my preferred uses. I'd like to decrease the size of the platelets by at least 50% to match some other brands of texture paint but am having an incredibly hard time figuring out how to do it. I've tried modifying the surface once I've spread it out with a palette knife with spritzes of flow aid, isopropyl 70%, and atomized dawn dish soap due example and if anything it's increased platelet size or stopped the mediums ability to crack entirely.. I've also gone in the opposite direction and tried using modeling paste and acrylics in different concentrations to adjust the cracking character but I've had no luck altering it's ability to crack, everything has inhibited it if anything. My goal is to get something more like this   Instead of this  I've already emailed Golden directly and they were just  If anyone has any tips I'd appreciate it.
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Mar 26, 2024 00:43
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Have you tried putting down a layer of self-leveling varnish on your base first to lessen the texturing? Having a smoother surface might get better results. It could also be humidity-dependent, but that's harder to check. If it's drying too fast I could see it making bigger segments. I've never gotten good results out of crackle paste and I think low humidity is probably part of it.
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Mar 26, 2024 01:32
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fwiw I've never gotten Golden Crackle to look like the stuff that GW sells. But it's good enough!
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Mar 26, 2024 01:54
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The Demilich posted:Anyone have any experience modifying the characteristics of Golden crackle medium? Even the thinnest application results in platelets that are just too large for my preferred uses. Not what your asking for, but I got exactly this affect with kroma crackle I think it helps to apply over a gloss varnish it I remember correctly too
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Mar 26, 2024 02:06
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The Demilich posted:Anyone have any experience modifying the characteristics of Golden crackle medium? Even the thinnest application results in platelets that are just too large for my preferred uses. I had the exact same problem. i was looking to use it instead of the citadel paints on my ork bases, the best I could get was some light cracks (not even as much as you got) and nothing like what I needed. I gave up and bought more of the Citadel Texture Paints.
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Mar 26, 2024 02:27
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The Demilich posted:Anyone have any experience modifying the characteristics of Golden crackle medium? Even the thinnest application results in platelets that are just too large for my preferred uses. The size of the crackles is directly related to the thickness you give it. The thicker it is, the larger the gaps and the bigger the chunks.
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Mar 26, 2024 02:38
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Okay, something interesting: The Ulthwe Falcons that I was doing looked good, but the black parts read as a single undifferentiated black mass. I bought a medium-gray Prismacolor pencil from Michaels and ran it gently along the edges of panels, and got a pretty good result. (You're also seeing where I tried to do it, clumsily, with paint.)  When I tried to do it again on a Falcon that hadn't been sealed - with Vallejo Mecha Matte Varnish - it didn't look nearly as good. It seems that the varnish gives the pencil some tooth, something to cling to, and lets me do much smaller lines. Weird.
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Mar 26, 2024 02:53
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did you airbrush the windows or hand paint them? if the former, great job. if the latter, i hate you as much as the guy who paints the penny minis.
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Mar 26, 2024 03:02
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With Golden Crackle I found it was nice to do a few tests of different thicknesses over different surfaces, and also thinning it a bit with water, to get a feel for how it works. You’ve got a huge tub, feel free to play for a while.
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Mar 26, 2024 03:32
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My Spirit Otter posted:did you airbrush the windows or hand paint them? if the former, great job. if the latter, i hate you as much as the guy who paints the penny minis. Windows are 50/50 to me but if those vents weren't airbrushed I'll eat my hat  Looking great!
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Mar 26, 2024 04:27
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My Spirit Otter posted:did you airbrush the windows or hand paint them? if the former, great job. if the latter, i hate you as much as the guy who paints the penny minis. Airbrush with Vallejo Game Air - Ultramarine Blue and Electric Blue. I got the idea off somebody else's paint job on a Falcon, but his had three colors to my two. Thanks for all of the kind compliments, all! Cannibal Smiley fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Mar 26, 2024 |
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Mar 26, 2024 04:28
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How hot can a plastic/resin mini get painted and unpainted before tgere are issues? I think I'm dealing with a bed bug problem and don't want to throw away my collection just to be sure the pests are gone and heating super hot kills them
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Mar 26, 2024 16:55
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do bed bugs die by drowning? if so, id say submerge the minis in something toxic to them.
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Mar 26, 2024 17:10
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It's pretty much heat or diatomacious earth. They're extremely resistant to poisons but heat is guaranteed to kill them. A cursory check says the temperature needs to hit 118 degrees F to kill bed bugs, and plastic should be fine up to 200 degrees F; but getting plastics above 100 F will cause them to soften (I find the sweet spot for paint removal in my ultrasonic cleaner is 43C/110F, just warm enough that the plastic and paint soften and the paint stops bonding to the surface but not so warm that it damages the minis. So that temperature should be safe, but if you're worried you might want to get some clean hard plastic containers to store your minis in, and put a ring of diatomaceous earth around the inside of each layer of minis. Bedbugs probably won't be using a hard surface to hide on so they're probably pest-free, but on the off chance eggs got layed in any of them you'd only need to keep them boxed for 7-10 days before those eggs hatch. I'd probably just talk to your exterminator to see if they've got suggestions, though. I'm sure they've worked around plastics before.
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Mar 26, 2024 17:23
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a pale ghost posted:How hot can a plastic/resin mini get painted and unpainted before tgere are issues? I think I'm dealing with a bed bug problem and don't want to throw away my collection just to be sure the pests are gone and heating super hot kills them this is why I always base with diatomaceous earth I honestly don't know, but at work, we have a 'bug oven' we put computers that gets up to 140℉ which is more than sufficient for kill bedbugs - I can take a couple minis I'm willing to ruin and do a test when I go to the office tomorrow. Do you mean 3d printed resin or like GW resin?
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Mar 26, 2024 18:00
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