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Cthulu Carl posted:this is why I always base with diatomaceous earth GW stuff! This would be great, thanks
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Mar 26, 2024 20:02
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Goons helping goons 
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Mar 26, 2024 21:27
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Cthulu Carl posted:this is why I always base with diatomaceous earth use sprues, same plastic and you dont have to gently caress up a mini
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Mar 26, 2024 21:53
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My Spirit Otter posted:use sprues, same plastic and you dont have to gently caress up a mini Put a forge world manta in the bug oven
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Mar 26, 2024 22:26
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StashAugustine posted:Put a forge world manta in the bug oven warlord titan with weapons
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Mar 26, 2024 22:33
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My Spirit Otter posted:use sprues, same plastic and you dont have to gently caress up a mini But we want to see the Melty McMeltyface minis!
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Mar 26, 2024 23:01
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a pale ghost posted:GW stuff! This would be great, thanks I don't have any GW resin models (That I'm willing to risk deforming, or getting a laptop dropped on it) but I can do a 3d printed one. Here's our  One Tau and one printed halfling sniper, both at least primed. Now to see if I remember them tomorrow.... My Spirit Otter posted:use sprues, same plastic and you dont have to gently caress up a mini with my backlog, losing two minis is not going to be a big deal
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Mar 26, 2024 23:25
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Anyone have tops using washes on large flat areas? Been painting a rhino for my Iron Warriors and my usual recipe of prime black -> AP Gunmetal spray -> Nuln Oil is just not working. The Nuln just pools all weirdly and the panels just look messy and splotchy and dirty in a not good way.
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Mar 27, 2024 01:10
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Super Waffle posted:Anyone have tops using washes on large flat areas? Been painting a rhino for my Iron Warriors and my usual recipe of prime black -> AP Gunmetal spray -> Nuln Oil is just not working. The Nuln just pools all weirdly and the panels just look messy and splotchy and dirty in a not good way. Use glazes instead so you have more control on the flat panels, and save the wash to use as a pin wash in the recesses?
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Mar 27, 2024 02:13
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Shades want to break surface tension and run into the recesses. It's what they are chemically designed to do. When they can't do that they will always try to form pools on a flat surface. You can get around this by using an airbrush to spray them as a 'filter' wherein you're applying a very thin transparent and even coat all over. Or, if you don't have access to an airbrush, a large flat headed brush like this: Load the brush so that it's wet but not carrying a large amount (relative to its size), and then work in smooth careful strokes over one area of the model at a time. You're aiming to get enough down to have the tinting effect you desire, and remain wet long enough for you to finish working on that area. But not wet enough that it can pull itself into a pool. This is a WiP picture of a tank I did a few years ago using the latter method and the older GW shades which stained more than the modern ones:  As you can see, there was some pooling/staining. I wasn't too fussed because it's a Nurgle vehicles and I was going to do more weathering to hide those flaws. What you could do to repair them is very gentle drybrush the base colour over the area where the shade has pooled to try and buff it out. Alternatively make/buy a pre-made glaze in the colour you desire. That would go down like any other paint, but evenly transparent. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 02:24
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Super Waffle posted:Anyone have tops using washes on large flat areas? Been painting a rhino for my Iron Warriors and my usual recipe of prime black -> AP Gunmetal spray -> Nuln Oil is just not working. The Nuln just pools all weirdly and the panels just look messy and splotchy and dirty in a not good way. uhhh the answer is "dont wash large flat areas" as that goes against the entire purpose of washing to begin with: to put darker stuff in the recesses to help the eye distinguish where one shape ends and another begins
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Mar 27, 2024 02:31
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Spanish Manlove posted:uhhh the answer is "dont wash large flat areas" as that goes against the entire purpose of washing to begin with: to put darker stuff in the recesses to help the eye distinguish where one shape ends and another begins Yo, there's no need to be aggro, we all started off life on Earth not knowing the ins and outs of mini painting, and we're all at different skill and knowledge levels itt. You should go easier on the newbies 
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Mar 27, 2024 02:39
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other posters covered some of the basics but some more tips to add: acrylic inks (which includes basically every acrylic wash, ink, shade, or contrast clone) are generally not designed to do this. however, oil washes will do a very nice job of forming filthy filters or grimy streaks. a coat of acrylic gloss varnish and a bit of carbon black or burnt sienna oil paint diluted with white spirit is all you need to experiment freely. (there are a great many readymade products that are basically dilute oil paint!) if you don't like the look, just reduce or remove it with clean white spirit on a brush. weathering scale model tanks and other military/industrial vehicles can get so involved that it's basically its own hobby. almost every technique, tool, and premade product from that hobby transfers over from scale modeling to (fantasy) wargaming. looking up guides to weathering scale model tanks should offer up plenty of info to work with. or, at least, a good start to ask for more specific advice.
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Mar 27, 2024 03:09
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So, the first Knight I painted was too much fun, and since it's my birthday I decided to pick up another. I think I've got a decent theme down. I'm planning on doing a more decrepit "Death Knight" style Knight Tyrant to match with my pristine and flashy Tzeenchian Abominant. The only thing I wasn't sure on was the head, since I know the only way to get a Tyrant is to kitbash a Dominus. I took a look through my STLs for interesting head shapes and did a few mockups to help myself plan. A Khorne-like demon head with a lot of movement (not sure it fits the theme inherently, but I could make it work).  A Giger-esque three-faced mask, that would let me keep the Knight's normal head for LEDs.  A Demon-y skull that has a nice Skeletor vibe.  An eyeless worm-y thing that reminds me of the sandworm from Beetlejuice, which gives an immediate idea for a paintscheme.  What do you think? I think I'll probably save the demon head for a Cerastis Lancer, but I'd like to fish for some opinions while I wait for things to ship. Edit: For actual content, I finally got around to painting my Tobi Kadachi. 
PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 04:07
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PoptartsNinja posted:What do you think? I think I'll probably save the demon head for a Cerastis Lancer, but I'd like to fish for some opinions while I wait for things to ship. not quite the same thing but having been working on a possessed titan for AT lately, I'll say that the bitey khorne look with the hanging cables and poo poo is a lot of fun to convert. definitely something to find an excuse to try even if it isn't for this
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Mar 27, 2024 05:24
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Cthulu Carl posted:Now to see if I remember them tomorrow.... The minis carl! The minis!
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Mar 27, 2024 13:34
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Triskelli posted:The minis carl! The minis! I actually remembered, and put them in when I got to the office this morning. The bug oven hasn't been getting up to 140 lately but is around 130°F today, more than enough for bedbugs according to the manual:  The next challenge will be remembering to take them out at the end of the day and take pictures
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Mar 27, 2024 13:53
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Pulled 'em out after about an hour at 130 °F and the gun on the halfling sniper wasn't any bendier than before the oven. The Tau I was able to bend the ankles of slightly but only with a fair amount of pressure. I'll check again this afternoon, assuming poo poo doesn't hit the fan with my actual job. I assume Gw resin would be largely fine too since the usual solution to bent parts is "heat, then unbend and hold until cool".
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Mar 27, 2024 14:15
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Super Waffle posted:Anyone have tops using washes on large flat areas? Been painting a rhino for my Iron Warriors and my usual recipe of prime black -> AP Gunmetal spray -> Nuln Oil is just not working. The Nuln just pools all weirdly and the panels just look messy and splotchy and dirty in a not good way. Long ago I brush painted some Rhinos. The way I did it was using a big (like 1/2 inch) wide flat brush to apply the base coat, then applied Badab black wash (this was before nulin oil) and then with the same big flat brush I dry brushed the base color over the entire model multiple times. The dry brush eliminated all the pooling and evened out the initial splotchyness without being too thick. It was time consuming, but the results were pretty ok.
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Mar 27, 2024 14:26
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first time ever entering a contest with this bad boy: https://i.imgur.com/FaaWbgz.mp4   lessons learned -I need to get better at skin for next time. Time to look up a vincey v video -photography on something with this much contrast is difficult. seems like focus stackign is the solution but thats a bit hard with a phone camera -should have looked up a star tutorial beforehand and done the messy work first. Kinda eyeballed it here as a space filler -painting/blending greens is a great time and I recommend it -initially hadnt planned on this being a contest entry, if I had a probably would have reprinted this as it has the misprinted line down the front. all minis are beautiful little guys though, super happy with it
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Mar 27, 2024 15:21
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Wings look great, and the balloon pants too. I recognize that model, I printed one and three accompanying lancer dudes for a goon friend last year. Super spindly in a couple places, so I used the good flex resin. A previous life doing entomology field work has me too hypercritical to do insect wings or carapace. Fun story, the tails on the hindwings of that model are almost certainly inspired by the luna moth (Troy McClure voice: you may remember it from such drug commercials as 'Lunesta'), which we used to catch in such quantities in the summer in Mississippi that we would fill up pillow cases with them, and then jimmy the screens on each others dorm rooms and chuck them in. They're big as birds, and flap just as hard. It never got old, it was funny every single time.
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Mar 27, 2024 15:50
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Thanks for the tips guys. I think a big part of the issue I'm having is the AP gunmetal spray is indeed a color match to the brush paint, but the spray is super glossy which makes the wash situation even worse. Next tank I think I'll just dry brush the whole thing with a big rear end brush.
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Mar 27, 2024 15:55
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With metallic sprays it can be worth doing a light coat of normal primer on the model before hitting it with the metal. This is because the metallic can form that incredibly satin/gloss sheen with little 'tooth' so other paints, especially washes, struggle to adhere.
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Mar 27, 2024 16:13
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https://www.warhammer-community.com/2024/03/24/golden-demon-2024-winners-revealed-at-adepticon/ I'm curious, is anyone here familiar with how judges make their decisions? No shade, these are all amazing, but I'm trying to understand what put the winner of the Open Competition ahead of number two, and two ahead of three in the Horus Heresy and Age of Sigmar Large Miniature categories. Just trying to train my eyes so to speak
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Mar 27, 2024 17:48
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w00tmonger posted:first time ever entering a contest with this bad boy: Gorgeous! What is that model?
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Mar 27, 2024 17:51
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:https://www.warhammer-community.com/2024/03/24/golden-demon-2024-winners-revealed-at-adepticon/ At that level they are usually judging based on flaws. Presumably numbers two and three had more technical errors that the judges could see.
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Mar 27, 2024 17:53
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:At that level they are usually judging based on flaws. Presumably numbers two and three had more technical errors that the judges could see. Plus they look different in person. I was there, and the photos don't do a lot of those pieces justice.
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Mar 27, 2024 18:03
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Lumpy posted:Plus they look different in person. I was there, and the photos don't do a lot of those pieces justice. Ben Kantor's piece looks absolutely insane on their instagram with the black background, second picture in this gallery https://www.instagram.com/p/C48PjVqLZYC/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
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Mar 27, 2024 18:05
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w00tmonger posted:first time ever entering a contest with this bad boy: I tried messing with my phone camera for ages trying to take good photos and realised it just can't be done well (at least not with a Samsung). You can take perfectly adequate photos but if you want to take really good photos you will need something that gives you better control of your focusing, shutter and aperture. The main problems I had were focusing and auto-filtering. The phones just can't manage that fine degree of focusing that a proper camera with a manual focus ring can, you have to adjust your aperture and hope for the best. Some phones (Samsung :grr:) have inbuilt filters which automagically make all your blends poo poo because they force the sharpness way up. There's no way to turn it off unless you shoot RAW and process it manually. I switched to a basic system camera with a macro lens (Sony a5100) which was dirt cheap second hand and it has made a massive difference to my photography. It has focus highlighting so you can just set a suitable aperture and dial the focus in manually with your camera on a tripod.
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Mar 27, 2024 18:28
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If I want to play around a bit with zenithal highlighting, but don't have an airbrush (and don't plan on getting one anytime soon), what's my best option? I could do a black primer basecoat and then spray on Tamiya white fine surface primer maybe? Or drybrush the white on? I don't trust my drybrushing skills enough to get the same directional effect that a spray would accomplish. Any non-airbrushers here have a preferred approach for this?
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Mar 27, 2024 18:33
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:With metallic sprays it can be worth doing a light coat of normal primer on the model before hitting it with the metal. This is because the metallic can form that incredibly satin/gloss sheen with little 'tooth' so other paints, especially washes, struggle to adhere. I did prime black before the AP Gunmetal spray! Maybe I just sprayed it a a little too thick
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Mar 27, 2024 18:52
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armorer posted:If I want to play around a bit with zenithal highlighting, but don't have an airbrush (and don't plan on getting one anytime soon), what's my best option? I could do a black primer basecoat and then spray on Tamiya white fine surface primer maybe? Or drybrush the white on? I don't trust my drybrushing skills enough to get the same directional effect that a spray would accomplish. Any non-airbrushers here have a preferred approach for this? Yeah I've only done it a little but just using a white rattlecan works fine
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Mar 27, 2024 18:53
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armorer posted:If I want to play around a bit with zenithal highlighting, but don't have an airbrush (and don't plan on getting one anytime soon), what's my best option? I could do a black primer basecoat and then spray on Tamiya white fine surface primer maybe? Or drybrush the white on? I don't trust my drybrushing skills enough to get the same directional effect that a spray would accomplish. Any non-airbrushers here have a preferred approach for this? Either will work, drybrushing or a rattlecan. Drybrush is closer to slapchop than a true zenithal, but as long as you mainly drybrush from the top down it'll do a decent enough approximation. But personally I usually use rattlecans, spray it a dark colour (black is traditional, but I find it a bit dark if I'm painting with contrast type paints, so I usually go with a chocolate brown as my dark, feel free to experiment here), then a light colour from a high angle. You can also combine both approaches, do the bulk of the work with a rattlecan then touch up any areas that you want to be lighter with a quick drybrush. Or use an off-white for your light colour then selectively drybrush white to push the contrast more on the highest spots. Zenithal with rattlecans is honestly barely more effort than just priming with one.
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Mar 27, 2024 18:55
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:At that level they are usually judging based on flaws. Presumably numbers two and three had more technical errors that the judges could see. Art contests involving high levels of skill aren't judged on flaws. Flaws will count against you extremely heavily, to the point of essentially being disqualifing. It is far more likely they are judging concept and execution. Basically, what was the artist's original concept, and how do all the elements of design and painting support that concept. I submit art to contests periodically (and have judged too), if I send something with flaws I know I won't win. It isn't even enough to send a good piece without flaws. To win, I must send something where all the elements of design are working in unison to support my concept.
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Mar 27, 2024 19:23
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Cthulu Carl posted:Pulled 'em out after about an hour at 130 °F and the gun on the halfling sniper wasn't any bendier than before the oven. The Tau I was able to bend the ankles of slightly but only with a fair amount of pressure. Thank you so, so much. I figure paint would melt though right?
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Mar 27, 2024 19:33
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a pale ghost posted:Thank you so, so much. Nope, the primer and paint are fine Here they are after the entire day in the bug oven at 130 °F.  Giving them some casual wiggles and they're not appreciably more bendy. GW resin is of course different, but between this test and remembering the force it too to straighten my Severina Raine sword, I imagine the results would be similar.
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Mar 27, 2024 20:40
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Are there any finecast in your collection? As I recall when finecast was a thing, folks were complaining about them deforming in hot car interiors.
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Mar 27, 2024 20:59
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They sure do.
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Mar 27, 2024 21:01
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Virtual Russian posted:Art contests involving high levels of skill aren't judged on flaws. Flaws will count against you extremely heavily, to the point of essentially being disqualifing. It is far more likely they are judging concept and execution. Basically, what was the artist's original concept, and how do all the elements of design and painting support that concept. I don’t follow it closely, but there has been quite a bit of debate about the judging approach to golden demons in the past few years. They don’t judge on flaws, because as you say, anything with an obvious flaw wouldn’t get that far. But there has been criticism that the judges are overly concerned with technical perfection at the expense of concept and design. (For a while there was apparently a critique that you had to paint in the eavy metal style to win, but that was probably never true and certainly isn’t now.) The slayer winner this year is a triumph of realising a unique concept by creating an illusion of a reflection in a pond. I would love to see it in person as I struggle to believe that the illusion holds all the way around the model. But people are saying it does.
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Mar 27, 2024 22:42
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:https://www.warhammer-community.com/2024/03/24/golden-demon-2024-winners-revealed-at-adepticon/ i don't know how they score but all three of those strike me as better compositions than what they're compared to. on the same level technically but clearer lines of movement and focus
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Mar 27, 2024 23:12
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