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Cease to Hope posted:This rules but also: This is great- I’ve heard that the 4” movement and 2” dash is pretty restricting, but I’m hoping that Bell Boy will help a few move fast while my Launcher (represented by the Space Marine Heroes Plague Caster cool due to the model being super cool), Plasma, and additional bolter lay down some fire. I had not realized that they are only 3 attacks- Reddit seems to suggest that the Launcher is the way to go over Knifey, but the melee heavy Novitiates my wife is planning make me wonder if he might be something to consider. If things go real bad after a few games then I think I’ll ponder switching things up and going Legionary. Just out of curiosity, what is the aura that half the teams can ignore?
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Apr 17, 2024 00:45
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I painted the naked dudes from the OP. (NSFW)  Still need to do a bit of touch up work, maybe a bit more highlighting, and some minor tweaks, but I think I'm going to leave them as is for a bit and paint a few other models I have on hand. This was my first time with pewter models, and the casting was a bit rough in places. I cleaned them up quite a bit with a x-acto but I could probably have done better with some needle files.
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Apr 17, 2024 05:47
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Professor Shark posted:This is great- I’ve heard that the 4” movement and 2” dash is pretty restricting, but I’m hoping that Bell Boy will help a few move fast while my Launcher (represented by the Space Marine Heroes Plague Caster cool due to the model being super cool), Plasma, and additional bolter lay down some fire. this plan will hit the shoals very quickly. bell boy has to activate first to give the rest of your team the benefit. elite teams already suffer very badly from having predictable activation orders and badly giving up activation advantage (unless you take poxwalkers, which gotta emphasize, are literally shambling zombies). so this means if any of your (slow, few) marines are out of position and aren't your bellboy, they're going to need to waddle out of that bad position with no move boost. head to head, an n" movement advantage is huge for basically any value of n. it means i can slot into a position where you have to retreat or get charged next turn but you can't do it back to me. even pin charges from chaff guys (usually a charge without them doing a follow-up fight action) mean your dudes have to waste most of a turn because most of them only have 3A. you are so, so vulnerable to bully or pin charges from pretty much any team in the game. using the bell costs you one of your relatively scarce APL. this is not a big deal but it adds up. it's just another way it'll feel like you can't get to objectives fast enough, or kill fast enough, or get separated too easily, etc. if you want a team that feels really nurgly, i recommend gellerpox. the hulks are extreme enough that they don't feel like a minor variation on a regular guy, and you get a bunch of individual nurglings and various insects to run around and get in trouble. it's a great balance of buzzing flies (literal or figurative), distracting the enemy just in time for a juggernaut to barrel through and run everyone over. the aura everyone ignores is contagion. it's not half the teams in the game any more but it's still obnoxiously common to ignore injuries very cheaply, especially for marine teams. (for example, your entire team is immune to injuries.) most teams now have this as "that enemy operative is treated as being injured, regardless of any rules that say they cannot be injured" but DG don't. armorer posted:I painted the naked dudes from the OP. ahahaha excellent. shame about the casting, though. warlord is usually pretty good. a historical note to take or leave: dudes with spiked hair historically had bleach-blonde hair (but not facial hair). they bleached and spiked their hair using limewater, same way as diy punks. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Apr 17, 2024 |
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Apr 17, 2024 06:06
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Cease to Hope posted:this plan will hit the shoals very quickly. Ugh, yeah, this could end up not being one of my finer teams. I’ve read some reports on Reddit that suggest that their durability is really tough to overcome with some lucky dice rolls, hopefully that will work in my favour. The models are so cool that they’ve been on my list for a long time, so regardless of performance, at least I’ll have enjoyed painting them!
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Apr 17, 2024 09:38
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Professor Shark posted:The models are so cool that they’ve been on my list for a long time, so regardless of performance, at least I’ll have enjoyed painting them! the legionary kill team plan i described works just fine with plague marines btw! i use mostly nurgle parts for my icon, the plaguespewer and blightlauncher work well as a chaincannon and missile launcher respectively, the plaguecaster is already a psyker, the flail or big axe work as a butcher, and a double knife guy works as a shrivetalon. all you need is an especially weird mutant guy to be your anointed.
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Apr 17, 2024 14:53
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Cease to Hope posted:ahahaha excellent. shame about the casting, though. warlord is usually pretty good. I've only painted a total of 6 minis before this in my life, all Reaper Bones stuff, so I don't have much to go on in terms of what a a rough casting is. That said, the mold lines were more like mold offsets on several of them, and that was hard to try to blend well with just a hobby knife. There were also some small voids in a few places that I couldn't fill because I didn't have any green stuff or miliput yet (I have acquired both now). The Reaper stuff I've painted so far has all been really clean in comparison. I got them almost entirely because I thought they were funny as I was reading through the OP content, but I also figured they would be good practice on fleshtones. I happen to have a decent set of paints from the Reaper stuff I have to do a range of natural human fleshtone work, but I don't have great options for (or experience with) hair. My focus for these was the skin and trying to get some practice with the "two white dots" method for painting eyes. The photo doesn't really show it, but they have low/highlighted brown hair, and the decapitated heads have a salt & pepper black hair look (although not much grey). I looked at the paint job in the Warlord listing for them and saw the spiked blonde hair, but I didn't want to try mixing yellow into the more natural looking hair options I had quite yet. I also did the high and low lighting on the muscles in a bit more subdued way than the website photo, because I thought it looked a bit forced there. I'll take a stab at blonde hair and also at red hair at some point in the models I have on deck. The main things I want to come back to on these is that there are some spots where the wash I did on the gold jewelry spilled over a mm or so on the skin, the bases are super boring with just some green slapped on them, one or two of the belt buckles could use a tiny bit of cleanup, and I may try my hand at a few freehanded tattoos like they have on the website photo to add some more color. I ordered some skeleton warriors, an orc warband, and some saxons in that order as well. They're all parts on sprues, so I'll get some assembly practice with those models. I also have 5 or 6 more Reaper minis still to paint. These sheets of sprues all look like very clean casts, and while I'm sure there will be some cleanup they're more alike the Reaper minis I have than these pewter Celt Fanatics.
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Apr 17, 2024 15:19
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WIP goblin. Debating whether to smooth out the blends on the cloak, or at least the hood, because I think the obvious brush marks end up having a weird sort of charm here. Though my brain might be tricking itself to avoid work.  
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Apr 17, 2024 16:58
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:WIP goblin. Debating whether to smooth out the blends on the cloak, or at least the hood, because I think the obvious brush marks end up having a weird sort of charm here. Though my brain might be tricking itself to avoid work. I think the obvious brush marks have charm because they are giving us the visual noise that cloth brings, so smoothing would lose that. You could transition with more brush strokes / hatching to give a more graduated value & hue shift, but keep the charm. Because it is in fact charming.
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Apr 17, 2024 17:09
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:WIP goblin. Debating whether to smooth out the blends on the cloak, or at least the hood, because I think the obvious brush marks end up having a weird sort of charm here. Though my brain might be tricking itself to avoid work. keep it as is, or do the same technique. it gives it a scrat scrobbled quality befitting of a goblin, imo
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Apr 17, 2024 18:17
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The sum total of my painting experience is four and a half miniatures. 2, and the half, of those were painted over 20 years ago when I was playing with others and using borrowed minis until I picked up my own right before our group suddenly disbanded. The other two were last week as I had the most ridiculous idea ever to suddenly paint the miniatures from a boardgame. Just laying that out to provide context for where I'm coming from. Is there any useful videos that show basic painting techniques to get to a satisfactory looking miniature? For me, that's been surprisingly hard to find. Lots of videos have tons of issues that prevent that like: 1) I'm going to use an airbrush, but it isn't necessary. Except it is for me, because if I try and emulate the method and it doesn't come out right I have no idea if it's a experience/skill/practice issue or a lack of an airbrush issue. 2) Just use this quick hack (washes, contrast paint, etc...). Not useful for actually teaching me how to get better and instead focused on whatever specific trick is at play. Nothing wrong with using those tools, but if I've got no clue how to make a quality product without them how in the hell am I supposed to learn how to use them effectively for more than that specific quick hack? 3) Here is this tutorial, but we're going to speed it up 10x going through the movements or jump cut past everything after a few brush strokes, have fun following along. Probably the most useful actual video I've found so far was from the Squidmar Miniatures youtube channel who had a video on doing manual highlighting and shading from a mid-tone instead of using washes (or layering up/down entirely). Nothing else has yet to convince me I've actually learned something useful to build a good foundation from instead of being a gimmick. Bonus points if someone can recommend something useful using oil paints. I get that they are a very niche option but all the video tutorials for using oil paints seem to require knowing what you're doing with acrylics first and using acrylic paint for various things first before getting to the oil paints. From my perspective that seems insane, why would I use oils if they require me learning and using acrylics first? I'd just spend the time getting good with acrylic. The few oil only examples I found are mainly from James Wappel who does great work, but he runs through the basics to get the specific more advanced thing he's working on and I haven't found a good explainer of the basics in his archive yet.
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Apr 18, 2024 00:30
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nessin posted:The sum total of my painting experience is four and a half miniatures. 2, and the half, of those were painted over 20 years ago when I was playing with others and using borrowed minis until I picked up my own right before our group suddenly disbanded. The other two were last week as I had the most ridiculous idea ever to suddenly paint the miniatures from a boardgame. Just laying that out to provide context for where I'm coming from. This entire playlist https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLcdsbwBroEmCplpQ_s3jSuxW8-1KQrsfT Vince Venturella may be a little dry but he gets to the point. And his channel is like an encyclopedia on painting techniques, paints, colors, you name it he has it.
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Apr 18, 2024 00:41
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nessin posted:
https://youtu.be/v-BlVYFxfRA?si=gmohKDmY7beFFAfX
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Apr 18, 2024 00:43
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People use acrylics and oil paints together to take advantage of each of their strengths. Starting with acrylics first lets you lay down some colours first to act as an underpainting for the oil paint layer. For example, spraying a gradient of green acrylic first and then applying small amounts of yellow oil paint then feathering it out to create a very smooth highlight gradient. Or covering an acrylic base layer with oil paints and then using a sponge/q tip to remove most of it to get a filtering effect and smoothen out the airbrush dotting pattern. Pure oil paints is doable but the main reason people don't do it is they don't want to wait days for each layer to dry.
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Apr 18, 2024 00:48
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You can watch all the tutorial videos you want, but the important part is to get painting. There's no right or wrong way to paint and you need to figure out what works for you by experimenting and trying different things. The basics are thinning the paint and applying it to the miniature, and you'll learn that by practice. The tutorial videos can't know what you're good or bad at, you have to find that out for yourself, and then you can use all those quick hacks to help out in areas you're having trouble with.
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Apr 18, 2024 05:40
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Lostconfused posted:You can watch all the tutorial videos you want, but the important part is to get painting. There's no right or wrong way to paint and you need to figure out what works for you by experimenting and trying different things. Yeah this right here. You gotta paint a bunch of bad minis before you can get decent. There is no way to avoid that. Nobody should start with Oil paints. There is a reason they're considered an advanced technique, working with them is a pain in the rear end, you need proper ventilation, you need to deal with long drying times, hash chemicals and cleanup. We use acrylics because they are easy to get started, dry quickly, cleanup with water and are mostly non-toxic. Use them to learn to paint, then when you reach as far as you can using just acrylics, try other medium.
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Apr 18, 2024 11:07
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nessin posted:The sum total of my painting experience is four and a half miniatures. 2, and the half, of those were painted over 20 years ago when I was playing with others and using borrowed minis until I picked up my own right before our group suddenly disbanded. The other two were last week as I had the most ridiculous idea ever to suddenly paint the miniatures from a boardgame. Just laying that out to provide context for where I'm coming from. Watch the official Warhammer painting videos. They're tailor made for newbies and will go over a lot of basic stuff that the influencer channels will skip over. And they will repeat the same lessons over and over again. The only thing bad that can be said about them is they only use very basic techniques and you will want to graduate into something more advanced when the time comes. However, if you want to build a foundation, they're 100% the best way to do it. Also their presenters (especially Duncan and Peachy from years ago) are very pleasant - again, very corporate and 'bland' but at the same time they're meant to appeal to a broad audience. You have to tolerate characters like Squidmar 'I want to gargle Superman's balls' or 'high on cocaine Miniac'. Contrast paints are perfectly fine as a beginner technique. If nothing else you will learn brush control. They're just an easy way to basecoat + shade in the same step. Oils are not a straightforward way to paint miniatures. The skills you will need to work with oils are more or less identical to acrylics. The main benefit of oils is the very slow dry compared to acrylics which means you have an easier time blending OR for making up washes. However because they do dry so slowly you are going to need to take a day or two between each layer/colour for oil paints. In many ways using the same technique on acrylics is harder than oils - blending has to be very quick, and you have to worry about tide marks when washing. If you git gud with your acrylics you can transition across to oils easily. However if you start with oils you will take forever to git anywhere. Airbrushing is something completely different and the effects\techniques do not map directly onto brush painting. You can get pseudo-airbrush effects with good drybrushing technique (see the Artis Opus videos) but there is a significant outlay for equipment and you need to practice as well. If you're just getting back into painting and asking these questions I would strongly recommend doing basic brush painting, follow the standard GW style and then build on from there. It's designed so that even a kid can do it. Bucnasti posted:Yeah this right here. Also this. There's no real way to git gud apart from painting more. Stuff like the muscle memory for brush control and familiarity with your brushes and paints can only come from practice. No amount of Youtube Influencer videos can help with that.
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Apr 18, 2024 11:30
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I think the hardest "you just need to paint" skill to learn is paint thickness. It's easy to say "thin your paints" but it's hard to get a feel for how much, and when, and the difference between brands, and the effects multiple layers will have.
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Apr 18, 2024 11:48
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It's also great if you can find someone to paint with. I started learning miniature painting with my sister's boyfriend, who'd been painting for years; and being able to ask questions immediately as issues cropped up was a major boon. Also, much more fun.
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Apr 18, 2024 12:07
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drilled my first hole today, went swimmingly, easier than I thought it was going to be, more hole-drilling incoming.
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Apr 18, 2024 13:33
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Definitely dive into painting then look at videos later when you have questions (or ask them here and have us link you the appropriate vince video) but if you're going to start with a video this is a good one. It's what I watched back when I first realized I wanted to pick the hobby back up again and things like zenithel highlights while priming were a revelation.
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Apr 18, 2024 19:57
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nessin posted:
I would say that washes are a normal tool to use and not really a hack. While you could get similar results, or potentially better results in some applications, using washes has been considered a standard technique for quite a while now. It is not so much a hack as using different properties of the medium to achieve a desired result.
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Apr 18, 2024 21:16
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Washes are used in acrylic and watercolours. Contrast paints are easier to use oil glazes. Every technique is valid.
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Apr 18, 2024 21:50
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Contrast paints (and their clones) are acrylic paint washes, although they generally have different leveling properties from tabletop hobby products sold as "washes", "shades", and "inks" (all of which are also washes).
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Apr 18, 2024 22:04
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First 20 skeletons almost done, just need to finish edge highlighting half of them and put snow on the bases:
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Apr 18, 2024 23:31
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Woah, cool patina.
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Apr 18, 2024 23:48
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mellonbread posted:Woah, cool patina. Thanks! I wanted it to contrast with the purple. It's just Citadel Nihilakh Oxide. I have some Dirty Down Verdigris on its way so I'll compare it to that later.
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Apr 19, 2024 00:47
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Muir posted:First 20 skeletons almost done, just need to finish edge highlighting half of them and put snow on the bases: BONEZONE. Excellent.
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Apr 19, 2024 06:17
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How much ventilation do i need in my room to make it safe to set up an airbrushing station?
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Apr 19, 2024 10:18
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Finished my battlewagon  
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Apr 19, 2024 10:25
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Al-Saqr posted:How much ventilation do i need in my room to make it safe to set up an airbrushing station? if you're just doing acrylics and using a airbrush booth, then just venting the exhaust out a window should be sufficient.
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Apr 19, 2024 10:35
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I don't have any ventilation but I wear an industrial respirator with p100 filters when I airbrush.
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Apr 19, 2024 11:03
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Airbrushing is cheating, because I don't have one 
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Apr 19, 2024 11:11
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It also depends on what your spraying, for primer you want a lot of ventilation since you'll be spraying it everywhere at high pressure, while painting at much lower pressure and using a lot less paint wouldn't need as much.
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Apr 19, 2024 13:51
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Lostconfused posted:It also depends on what your spraying, for primer you want a lot of ventilation since you'll be spraying it everywhere at high pressure, while painting at much lower pressure and using a lot less paint wouldn't need as much. Or you could spray everything at 18psi so it doesn't go everywhere.
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Apr 19, 2024 14:36
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Kylaer posted:I don't have any ventilation but I wear an industrial respirator with p100 filters when I airbrush. Even if you don't need to worry about your lungs. Everything in you painting space is going to eventually accumulate a fine coating of paint dust. So if you have a safe space, or you're only painting occasionally that's ok, but otherwise get some form of ventilation.
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Apr 19, 2024 15:36
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I spray at ~20 psi, I do it inside an airbrush box but without the fans hooked up and the paint dust stays confined to the box just fine. For myself I wear a respirator.
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Apr 19, 2024 16:32
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i grabbed some auxilia to use as imperial guard, and i cant for the life of me decide on how to paint their backpacks and would love some input. i feel like the choices are either black or metallic. i think black would be too plain and metallic too loud.  
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Apr 19, 2024 20:04
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My Spirit Otter posted:i grabbed some auxilia to use as imperial guard, and i cant for the life of me decide on how to paint their backpacks and would love some input. Metallic doesn't have to be loud -- you can do a really dark silver or bronze.
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Apr 19, 2024 20:07
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Muir posted:Metallic doesn't have to be loud -- you can do a really dark silver or bronze. by loud i meant shiny/reflective. im going to be using brass for parts of the air pump or whatever it is, but the rest of it is where i have no clue. i feel like even a dark metallic would be too much
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Apr 19, 2024 20:12
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Maybe it’s the retro feel talking but a Bakelite beige might be cool imo.
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Apr 19, 2024 20:15
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