|
Are you poking the surface at a normal angle with your brush? Or gently stroking the surface with the side of the tip of the brush?
|
# ? Apr 30, 2024 17:37 |
|
|
# ? May 21, 2024 18:19 |
|
Cannibal Smiley posted:Okay, I'm throwing myself on the mercy of the court here: I have tried multiple brushes and have had the same result every time - the brush holds its point until it hits the miniature, after which it starts fraying, with a number of flyaway hairs springing free of the point and making a mockery of my attempts to paint with it. Winsor-Newton Series 7 do it, Da Vinci brushes do it. My synthetic brush for metallics from Monument holds a point better than my nice sable brushes, for Christ's sake I'd get new sable brushes from another brand if there were any I could even trust to be good at this point.
|
# ? Apr 30, 2024 17:44 |
|
Are you moving paint to the pallet with your good brush? Edit: I’m currently using a Vallejo pro sable brush at size 1 and it will probably start hooking on me sooner than later but right now it works great. Mot too expensive either! These guys: https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/vallejo-round-2-0-natural-hair-pro-model-brush-b01020/ Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Apr 30, 2024 |
# ? Apr 30, 2024 17:44 |
|
I know this is almost a year late, but I'm finally getting around to painting my Sternguard vets from the Leviathan box. My only problem is they have horrible mold slippage on their right pauldrons. I wouldn't mind too much if they weren't so egregious, and I didn't have to paint their trims white. Is GW still allowing replacements for these errors?
|
# ? Apr 30, 2024 17:45 |
|
Cannibal Smiley posted:Okay, I'm throwing myself on the mercy of the court here: I have tried multiple brushes and have had the same result every time - the brush holds its point until it hits the miniature, after which it starts fraying, with a number of flyaway hairs springing free of the point and making a mockery of my attempts to paint with it. Winsor-Newton Series 7 do it, Da Vinci brushes do it. I had this exact issue with a brand new Army Painter regiment brush, though from what I've seen I may have just gotten a lemon. I got a Da Vinci size 3 to replace it and haven't had the issue since.
|
# ? Apr 30, 2024 17:53 |
|
Cannibal Smiley posted:Okay, I'm throwing myself on the mercy of the court here: I have tried multiple brushes and have had the same result every time - the brush holds its point until it hits the miniature, after which it starts fraying, with a number of flyaway hairs springing free of the point and making a mockery of my attempts to paint with it. Winsor-Newton Series 7 do it, Da Vinci brushes do it. A few questions: 1) Are you buying the brushes from an in-person retailer, where you can test the brush before buying it? Sable brushes, unfortunately, seem to have pretty serious QC issues across all brands, and you may have just been very (very) unlucky. I also suspect that warehouse storage and shipping does a number on brushes, especially with regards to the glue in the ferrule, which can then cause otherwise great brushes to split and fray. 2) Are you reshaping the brush after loading it with paint? Either on a paper towel or your thumb. I don't think only having paint on the last 20% would be an issue - that actually sounds ideal in terms of control, especially if the rest of the brush remains wet. 3) How much pressure do you apply while painting? Do you noticeably see the brush tip distort when you touch it to the model? 4) Does the fraying get worse when the brush is dry? I've had massive issues with online-ordered Raphael 4804s, and it definitely seems that ordering online is a much riskier prospect than going into a retailer and testing the brush yourself. In general, if this is happening to brand new brushes, the chances are that it's a manufacturing/storage issue, and not how you use them.
|
# ? Apr 30, 2024 17:58 |
|
Actually trimming stray hairs on quality brushes is a thing. Or at least it was 10 years ago. I’ve done it a couple times, but only a few hairs and never all the way back to the ferrule Today’s Martens just aren’t as good as they used to be I guess.
|
# ? Apr 30, 2024 18:02 |
|
Radiation Cow posted:A few questions: I'm buying them online, but not from Amazon. I'm beginning to think that it's just the nature of the beast to have fraying tips on these brushes, but it's frustrating when I'm paying $20+ and having to reshape the brush all the time. I do use the brush to transfer paint from the pot to the palette, but I'm careful not to let it get into the ferrule where it can dry and cause splintering. quote:2) Are you reshaping the brush after loading it with paint? Either on a paper towel or your thumb. I don't think only having paint on the last 20% would be an issue - that actually sounds ideal in terms of control, especially if the rest of the brush remains wet. Yeah - I have a cutting mat that I use to form the brush into a point before I paint. quote:3) How much pressure do you apply while painting? Do you noticeably see the brush tip distort when you touch it to the model? A fair amount of pressure, but not excessive, I don't think. quote:4) Does the fraying get worse when the brush is dry? Yeah, it does. I have some Windsor and Newton brushes that look like little bushes, but they kind of form into a point when they're wet. quote:I've had massive issues with online-ordered Raphael 4804s, and it definitely seems that ordering online is a much riskier prospect than going into a retailer and testing the brush yourself. In general, if this is happening to brand new brushes, the chances are that it's a manufacturing/storage issue, and not how you use them. I'm thinking that I may have to roll the dice again on Dick Blick, or maybe see if there's an art store in Houston that sells the appropriate brush. Thanks for your help!
|
# ? Apr 30, 2024 18:23 |
|
Jonny Nox posted:Today’s Martens just aren’t as good as they used to be I guess. Didn't a whole lot of them get culled due to Covid? Maybe it's Long-Mustelid Covid. Either that or the good stuff is no longer available because someone decided to sanction the only supplier to hell and back. Also I switched to Rosemary after my last Raphael 8404 went funny on me right out of the box. Credit where its due Jackson Art replaced it for me despite me having purchased it over a year ago, but with the prices having more than doubled it's really painful.
|
# ? Apr 30, 2024 21:27 |
|
Virtual Russian posted:Avoid Michaels, go support your local supplier, odds are their prices are better too. You can just straight up buy pigments, then you are only getting pigment and no filler. I know you're out east but any recommendations around the GTA? I haven't found a good supplier around here, or at least one still in business.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 01:57 |
|
There's a few DeSerres locations around here. At least there's one close enough to me that i've been going to for the past few months.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 02:07 |
|
DeSerres owns they've got all the fine art stuff you need with a bigger selection of stuff like acrylic paints and mediund and oil paints than Michaels.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 02:24 |
|
Is Curry's still big in the GTA? They were the go to fine-art store back when I lived there.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 02:34 |
|
some 6mm depo buildings from iliada games studio. pretty simple scatter buildings that stack up nicely infinitely against each other. get them here: https://www.wargamevault.com/product/444664/Depo-Buildings also another 6mm medina house from the lazy forger
|
# ? May 1, 2024 03:47 |
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Is Curry's still big in the GTA? They were the go to fine-art store back when I lived there. The only remaining physical store is in Hamilton.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 06:04 |
|
Knuckle Sammich posted:The only remaining physical store is in Hamilton. Huh. I was wondering what was up, since their website still lists all their stores. But on closer inspection, the link to each stores info, other than Hamilton, goes to a 404 page. Looks like mismanagement and lovely stores practices, after a few cursory searches. Kind of a shame, since they had a lot of history, and were kind of the art store in Canada for a while there. Luckily we've got Deserres out west here too, as well as Opus Art Supplies.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 06:19 |
|
Nebalebadingdong posted:some 6mm depo buildings from iliada games studio. pretty simple scatter buildings that stack up nicely infinitely against each other. get them here: https://www.wargamevault.com/product/444664/Depo-Buildings That graffiti is insane. The pencil? The words? The loving rabbit eating a carrot?! Come on now.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 07:02 |
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Huh. I was wondering what was up, since their website still lists all their stores. But on closer inspection, the link to each stores info, other than Hamilton, goes to a 404 page. Looks like mismanagement and lovely stores practices, after a few cursory searches. Kind of a shame, since they had a lot of history, and were kind of the art store in Canada for a while there. I used them a lot for ordering supplies for my art classes but noticed this year a lot of stuff was out of stock, so I had to look elsewhere
|
# ? May 1, 2024 11:21 |
|
5/6 painted for this weekend. I'm not going to have time to do their snow effects before the learning game, probably, but that's okay. Hopefully across 3 days I can manage to get one more guy done. If I'm lucky, two so I have leader options.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 13:10 |
|
Nebalebadingdong posted:some 6mm depo buildings from iliada games studio. pretty simple scatter buildings that stack up nicely infinitely against each other. get them here: https://www.wargamevault.com/product/444664/Depo-Buildings please for the love of god, record yourself painting a 6mm terrain piece. i just want to see how you do it. i'd watch it even if it were 3 hours long.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 17:35 |
|
Nebalebadingdong posted:some 6mm depo buildings from iliada games studio. Do you use your pym particles to strictly paint in the quantum realm or do you ever sometimes decide to reverse it and go ham on a mountain range from time to time?
|
# ? May 1, 2024 19:19 |
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Is Curry's still big in the GTA? They were the go to fine-art store back when I lived there. They were my go-to but the local ones have all gone out of business.
|
# ? May 1, 2024 20:03 |
|
My Spirit Otter posted:please for the love of god, record yourself painting a 6mm terrain piece. i just want to see how you do it. i'd watch it even if it were 3 hours long. Here you go, a video about how he does it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fantastic_Voyage
|
# ? May 2, 2024 01:29 |
|
SuperKlaus posted:Here you go, a video about how he does it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fantastic_Voyage this tracks
|
# ? May 2, 2024 03:17 |
|
SkyeAuroline posted:
And managed to hammer out number six in a couple hours. I'm not painting any more of these legionaries until I find a replacement for Thousand Sons Blue. This is one of the worst paints I have ever had the misfortune of working with, and it's easily half the time it takes me to paint these guys on its own from having to do five or more layers just to get coverage. But hey, it's a team that's ready to go!
|
# ? May 2, 2024 03:37 |
|
Are the Vallejo color-shift paints any less awful about turning to chunks of latex in the tube?
|
# ? May 2, 2024 05:10 |
|
SkyeAuroline posted:And managed to hammer out number six in a couple hours. Two Thin Coats paints are made to be matches for GW paints and are considered excellent. Looks like Sentient Turquoise is the Thousand Sons Blue equivalent. https://transatlantisgames.com/two-thin-coats-charts/
|
# ? May 2, 2024 06:50 |
|
After a long (long) hiatus, the frog is back on the bench. Warming up to tackling the skin by painting some leather bits and the saddle first.
|
# ? May 2, 2024 10:51 |
|
Can I get some advice on which colour/paint should I use to wash bright orange armor?
|
# ? May 2, 2024 12:10 |
|
Brown / sepia for grimy and worn. Blue to make for interesting chromatic shadows Green if the rest of the model is organic Yellow if it's on fire Purple if you're colorblind Black if you're a basic bitch
|
# ? May 2, 2024 12:28 |
|
Muir posted:Two Thin Coats paints are made to be matches for GW paints and are considered excellent. Looks like Sentient Turquoise is the Thousand Sons Blue equivalent. One of my local stores started carrying a limited range of TTC, so guess I'll be checking if they have that in stock today. Thanks. I've been burnt on these color comparison charts enough I don't really trust them, but I need to find a better option or I'm going to go insane doing the second half of the team. May take a break and work on Kommandos once their sprue arrives today. Just for something with no blue on it. e: unfortunately it looks like Sentient Turquoise doesn't exist in the US yet. On to something else I guess? SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 23:39 on May 2, 2024 |
# ? May 2, 2024 15:09 |
|
Got to paint one of my wife's sororitas models as a little space marine break Real fun, but I have quite a way to go with skin tones
|
# ? May 2, 2024 21:11 |
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Brown / sepia for grimy and worn. My first impulse was using sepia, however blue sounds good, definetly going to test it and see what happens, thanks!
|
# ? May 2, 2024 21:32 |
|
Dreylad posted:I know you're out east but any recommendations around the GTA? I haven't found a good supplier around here, or at least one still in business. I was going to say Curry's, that was where I went when in KW, they were good. I definitely prefer a much smaller sort of art store though, which is harder and harder to find. I live in PEI and get my supplies in Fredericton because I like a tiny store there so much. Known the owner for maybe 20 years now when I think about it.
|
# ? May 2, 2024 23:57 |
|
When I started Deathwatch I was stoked to make a Deathwing Terminator at some point and it only took me 3 years to get around to it:
|
# ? May 3, 2024 02:48 |
|
Bohemian Nights posted:
I see no problems there. That's a good little fat grotesque.
|
# ? May 3, 2024 05:11 |
|
Paint stripping question: I dug out an old model from my Dark Eldar that I kept when I sold the rest, and decided to get around to painting it. The problem is, this model is from when gesso priming was still all the rage... and a lot of the gesso had worn off in storage, but not all of it. I've stripped about 90% of it with simple green, a toothbrush, and a toothpick, but there's still stubborn gesso on there that I can't get out, especially in recesses. If I prime over this with rattle can primer, am I likely to have primer peel off later since it's adhering to the weakened gesso instead of the plastic? Or is it going to form an effective enough "shell" that it should hold fine over the small areas where there's still gesso? This is going to be a game piece, so handling is definitely in the cards. The mini in question (I was foolish enough to use "bare plastic grey" gesso, so it's only really visible on the resin base, which is complicating things further): e: Went ahead and primed it, so we'll see how it turns out. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 16:11 on May 3, 2024 |
# ? May 3, 2024 12:59 |
|
Trying out Imgbb, let’s see if this works: WIP Plague Marines
|
# ? May 3, 2024 18:31 |
|
Professor Shark posted:Trying out Imgbb, let’s see if this works: The skin/tentacle/stuff looks absolutely gross, bravo
|
# ? May 3, 2024 18:38 |
|
|
# ? May 21, 2024 18:19 |
|
AndyElusive posted:When I started Deathwatch I was stoked to make a Deathwing Terminator at some point and it only took me 3 years to get around to it: Looks great as always- I love the way you do weathering and armor chipping!
|
# ? May 3, 2024 20:33 |