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Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Guildencrantz posted:

Does anyone have a good method for doing rusted/weathered painted metal? I'm getting the appropriate look on the bare metal parts of my Necromunda terrain with a mix of the typhus/ryza method and pigment powders, but once in-universe paint is involved I'm pretty lost. I'd rather not gently caress around with chipping medium unless there's really no other way.

I undercoat a rust brown, then a coat of whatever colour you want the paint to be. If I'm feeling fancy, I then apply patches of off-white to edges and any surfaces that would show wear, usually with a sponge or brush. This represents an in-universe primer or undercoat showing through. You can skip this step tbh, but it does add a bit of depth, and you could get an interesting effect with multiple different colours, implying that it has been painted and repainted over the centuries.

I then hit the center of those patches with the rust brown (or apply new ones if I skipped that step), trying to keep a little around the edges but not worrying too much if I go over onto the original colour. This is where the metal has been exposed long enough to rust. You can also apply some orange or typhus or whatever technique you want at this point to make it look rusty.

Then in the center of the larger patches/scratches, I stipple/brush on some metallic - this is where the rust has flaked away to show metal that hasn't had time to corrode yet. Sometimes I also add metallic scratches over the base colour to represent new damage that hasn't rusted at all. I don't have any pigments or whatever, so I then use watered down rust-brown and/or typhus corrosion to add streaks from the weathering to represent where water has carried flakes of rust down over the paint, and generally grubby it up a bit.

Ends up looking like this (I didn't do the under-paint stage on these)





I did these years ago now, if I had to do them again I'd dial back the metallic on the scratches a bit to make them look less fresh.

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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Guildencrantz posted:

Does anyone have a good method for doing rusted/weathered painted metal? I'm getting the appropriate look on the bare metal parts of my Necromunda terrain with a mix of the typhus/ryza method and pigment powders, but once in-universe paint is involved I'm pretty lost. I'd rather not gently caress around with chipping medium unless there's really no other way.

https://youtu.be/pMncvt0BpbI?si=xV6lqT_4Nu7zqhhm

Pretty much exactly what you need.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Mr Teatime posted:

My kingdom for a video guide explaining how to paint chaos gold trim like the gw studio does. I’ve had it explained to me, I’ve seen pictures but I just can’t get it right.

Paint gold first, fill in the middle parts after. Otherwise just relax and paint very carefully

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001
the future is Now:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjTsZIT6UPI

paperface
Apr 20, 2005

My name's paperface, and I'm the Biggest Idiot Ever!

Finished* my first Bretonnian Knight of the Realm and his retainers

*needs based

Issaries
Sep 15, 2008

"At the end of the day
We are all human beings
My father once told me that
The world has no borders"

paperface posted:

Finished* my first Bretonnian Knight of the Realm and his retainers

*needs based

Looking good.
What transfers are those?

paperface
Apr 20, 2005

My name's paperface, and I'm the Biggest Idiot Ever!

They're from the Sisters of Battle transfer sheet, I think they're Order of the Sacred Rose ones.

rain dogs
Apr 19, 2020

Guildencrantz posted:

Does anyone have a good method for doing rusted/weathered painted metal? I'm getting the appropriate look on the bare metal parts of my Necromunda terrain with a mix of the typhus/ryza method and pigment powders, but once in-universe paint is involved I'm pretty lost. I'd rather not gently caress around with chipping medium unless there's really no other way.

Paint your color on and then use a torn off bit of sponge to dab on bare metal/rust effects? It's what I do add battle damage to my ork checkers and cover up my mistakes.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Mr Teatime posted:

My kingdom for a video guide explaining how to paint chaos gold trim like the gw studio does. I’ve had it explained to me, I’ve seen pictures but I just can’t get it right.

Battled with this most of the day… just to get a Rhinox basecoat on before the Balthasar. I did a bit of clean up even though I knew I’d be making more mistakes later and realized Screaming Skull will take a few coats to do.

Loving the models, though!

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



In terms of painting technique or how I treat it, do I need to do anything special with paint-on primer black, or is it basically similar to other acrylics?

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Nessus posted:

In terms of painting technique or how I treat it, do I need to do anything special with paint-on primer black, or is it basically similar to other acrylics?

whose paint-on primer black? some are self-leveling (so you can be kind of sloppy), some are just tough black paint

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Cease to Hope posted:

whose paint-on primer black? some are self-leveling (so you can be kind of sloppy), some are just tough black paint
Vallejo

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
that's self-leveling. don't fill in gaps but don't worry about applying it smoothly.

Bark! A Vagrant
Jan 4, 2007

Grad school is good for mental health

Mr Teatime posted:

My kingdom for a video guide explaining how to paint chaos gold trim like the gw studio does. I’ve had it explained to me, I’ve seen pictures but I just can’t get it right.

Do you have a reference photo? Looking at the recent announcements from Adepticon it looks like they're doing NMM, but clicking randomly around the store it seems like there's a mix of true metallic and NMM.

I'm a big fan of Richard Gray's tutorials, and he has a number for NMM gold: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0Le3Y2E4WY
His style is longer videos painting whole/substantial portions of models, which isn't to everyone's taste, but he does an excellent job verbalizing what he's thinking about/paying attention to.

Cease to Hope posted:

what if all i have is a syringe full of drain cleaner, will that suffice

personally i find just a regular human eye draws focus very well while being disconcerting

I really like what you have done with this blightcrawler btw

Thanks! You inspired me to give a realistic-ish human eye a shot for the first time, and I'm reasonably happy with how it turned out:



I'm calling it here and moving onto basing. I'm content with the verdigris and still unhappy with the rust, but I've spent enough time on it I think it's time to move on. I've got plenty more death guard to paint so it won't be my last chance to paint some rust. After basing I'll need to figure out how to take a picture where the detail on the eye is visible without having the the stippling and the verdigris look extremely textured.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Bark! A Vagrant posted:

I'm calling it here and moving onto basing. I'm content with the verdigris and still unhappy with the rust, but I've spent enough time on it I think it's time to move on. I've got plenty more death guard to paint so it won't be my last chance to paint some rust. After basing I'll need to figure out how to take a picture where the detail on the eye is visible without having the the stippling and the verdigris look extremely textured.

this rules btw

like, you are going to get better and do work closer to what is in your mind's eye, certainly, but all anyone else can see is what you've made, which is excellent

Ballbot5000
Dec 13, 2008

Fabricati diem, pvnc.

Guildencrantz posted:

Does anyone have a good method for doing rusted/weathered painted metal? I'm getting the appropriate look on the bare metal parts of my Necromunda terrain with a mix of the typhus/ryza method and pigment powders, but once in-universe paint is involved I'm pretty lost. I'd rather not gently caress around with chipping medium unless there's really no other way.

Goonhammer, as ever, have you covered for techniques both simple and more involved for small terrain. Also for necro big terrain.

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
A test with the Newsh wash.

Urien Rakarth base, Pallid Wych Flesh drybrush:


Newsh + Evil Suns Scarlet; I think that I used too much on the Newsh coat. I tried painting a miniature one time with red gouache paint, and it looked similar to the effect that I'm getting here. I don't think that gouache and Newsh have much in common, but I'm saying that they look similar here.


After sponging off the Newsh, another Urien Rakarth drybrush:


And a final drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh:



I wonder if it would look better with a gloss varnish, to get that wet skin look.

I'm still going to have to practice using Newsh to get the result I want. The next experiment will be doing brown ink in Newsh over a Frostgrave miniature for your standard Burnt Sienna oil wash look.

Cannibal Smiley fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Mar 23, 2024

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


Did a quick one as a palette cleanser after finishing Skull Lance for battletech.




and Skull Lance, which I posted in battletech thread, ten minis for six mechs:

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!




It is not well painted, but it is fully painted. I need to look at some paint schemes instead of just grabbing random colors. That also isn't its actual base, I've got some fancy ones printing and I'll see which one looks best for it.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
my local artists supply store has a line of professional graffiti paint called montana and they had a clear plastic primer. it was cheap as hell compared to hardware stores and it works amazingly, highly recommend it if you have some near you

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Akira Toriyama died earlier this month, so I decided to paint up a statuette he designed.







This is very much an old school model kit. Most comes off the sprue in big, solid chunks that you would logically lay out as a person, not a thin shell of weird ribbons cut out of the forms like when you run it through a slicer. Also, I'm pretty sure that the original sculpt was made out of greenstuff, based on the textures that got transferred to the mold. It's pretty charming, barring that drat bag strap outright not fitting no matter what you do to it.

Anyway, painting a big miniature was a lot of fun and I highly recommend it if you can find one you like. Get you a 75mm model or something, it rules.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Kylaer posted:





It is not well painted, but it is fully painted. I need to look at some paint schemes instead of just grabbing random colors. That also isn't its actual base, I've got some fancy ones printing and I'll see which one looks best for it.
I feel you on that red, did you feel like you overthinned your paints somewhat?

pseudanonymous
Aug 30, 2008

When you make the second entry and the debits and credits balance, and you blow them to hell.
Is there a good way to get Vallejo paints people know of, some are on Amazon but I can't find the ones I want (metallic).

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Painted up a Jump Pack Chaplain for my Blood Angels.



Older sculpts are pretty sick but there's some really funny details that I can only explain via technological limitations. There's a little skull on the chestplate that looks fine from the front but from the top it's actually a long tube with a skull shape at the end.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Kylaer posted:





It is not well painted, but it is fully painted. I need to look at some paint schemes instead of just grabbing random colors. That also isn't its actual base, I've got some fancy ones printing and I'll see which one looks best for it.

Red over a white undercoat is hard - I'd suggest starting with a brown, then applying two thin coats over the top. Or, if that's a contrast paint, try to work on your brushstrokes to keep the surface smooth, and avoid pooling on flat surfaces. In either case, another thin coat might help to smooth out the red finish you have now.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Thank you for the feedback. It's a contrast paint (Blood Angels red) and I think the issue is that I hosed up the priming again, using the last of my spray can primer. I did another coat on the shin armor and it did very little to cover up the streaks so I didn't bother on the carapace.

Sojenus
Dec 28, 2008

pseudanonymous posted:

Is there a good way to get Vallejo paints people know of, some are on Amazon but I can't find the ones I want (metallic).

I usually grab a couple at a time off whatever eBay store has everything I'm looking for.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Kylaer posted:

Thank you for the feedback. It's a contrast paint (Blood Angels red) and I think the issue is that I hosed up the priming again, using the last of my spray can primer. I did another coat on the shin armor and it did very little to cover up the streaks so I didn't bother on the carapace.

Contrast paints can struggle to get even coverage over large smooth surfaces (like big armour panels) and try to pool weirdly/streak when you use them like that, even over a flawless primer coat. It can be done (either by using an airbrush or by being super careful/vigilant with a brush, I find almost an overbrushing technique works better than my usual "slop it on and move it around" contrast paint technique) but honestly over things like that I'd kind of recommend just reverting to "basecoat, wash, highlight" with regular acrylics. Also would probably be a bit more opaque and do more to cover the uneven primer.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Ahh. Wrong tool for the job I guess :eng99:

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Yeah, I used a Black Templar contrast layer as a base coat for my warhound titan, with the plan to stipple red over the top. Black Templar has extremely good coverage for a contrast paint, but even then I noticed it was patchy in places (which was fine for my use but not great if I just wanted it to be black)

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Kylaer posted:

Ahh. Wrong tool for the job I guess :eng99:

Yeah, so dont beat yourself up about it. You didnt struggle to get coverage because you are bad at this, you just were missing a piece of information. You now know for next time, next one you paint (or indeed this one if you fancy having another crack at doing the carapace, you can always just paint over the current coat if you want to) will be better simply because you now know a limitation of your tools and can select a more appropriate one.

the_seventh_cohort
May 4, 2013
Finished up Ushoran

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang

Kylaer posted:

Ahh. Wrong tool for the job I guess :eng99:

On the bright side, if you want to make it look smoother, having that contrast red there will make a normal red cover over it better, and give you a solid colour in fewer coats.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

the_seventh_cohort posted:

Finished up Ushoran



:drat: That's awesome!

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!


Primed the base with my airbrush, which I should have done for the model itself, paint applies so much better than over rattlecan primer :v:

There's probably a better mud tone than this but it's good enough.

Also I'm disproportionately proud of how the little 90-degree notches I edited into the base turned out, they define the front/side/rear arcs of the model.

Mercurius
May 4, 2004

Amp it up.

Kylaer posted:



Primed the base with my airbrush, which I should have done for the model itself, paint applies so much better than over rattlecan primer :v:

There's probably a better mud tone than this but it's good enough.

Also I'm disproportionately proud of how the little 90-degree notches I edited into the base turned out, they define the front/side/rear arcs of the model.
I know rattlecan primer is cheaper and easier but I really do prefer doing the prime and basecoat stage through the airbrush. It takes humidity/weird weather conditions out of the picture and airbrushing ends up with such thin layers that there's basically no chance of obscuring any detail while still giving subsequent layers something to grip onto nicely.

I tend to use the Vallejo Mecha primers with a bit of thinner and both the black (if I'm doing regular acrylics and building up to a zenithal) or white (if I'm going to use mainly contrasts/inks or be painting gunpla armour panels) have been good for me. I admittedly do tend to use a basecoat after the primer layer as well depending on what I'm going to be doing (just because it takes hardly any time with an airbrush and lets me adjust the finish on the model without varnish) but honestly you can skip that.

StashAugustine
Mar 24, 2013

Do not trust in hope- it will betray you! Only faith and hatred sustain.

pseudanonymous posted:

Is there a good way to get Vallejo paints people know of, some are on Amazon but I can't find the ones I want (metallic).

Michigan Toy Soldier and Burbank's House of Hobbies are my go to online paint retailers

mellonbread
Dec 20, 2017
Painted my first miniature: a Leonidas smartgunner from SYNDICAT, along with a C4T multipurpose robot.





I went to Adepticon with the guy who sculpted/printed the mini and he talked me through the basics of priming, paint thinning, etc.



He printed a hundred of them and handed them all out in these little gachapon balls, which were an instant hit and doubled as a storage container to stop them getting damaged if you stuck them in a pocket.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

mellonbread posted:

Painted my first miniature: a Leonidas smartgunner from SYNDICAT, along with a C4T multipurpose robot.

I love them

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mellonbread
Dec 20, 2017
Thank you! They're eventually going to be a full series of printable STL files, once the developer converts the rest of his 3D models.



You can already get files for some of the older minis, one from each faction. I'm painting the Haomao next, I just have to get my setup figured out at home.

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