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Disproportionation posted:Speaking of WW2 stuff, does anyone have any advice for painting (semi-realistic) cockpit canopies? I have a bunch of small 1/200 hurricanes and such which I've just painted the canopies of black-grey cause I'm not sure how to approach them in a way that doesn't look overly exaggerated. Nobody's going to notice detail that small. Just paint 'em black, do the canopy supports, then gloss coat the glass part.
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Mar 2, 2024 04:57
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AndyElusive posted:Microsol works wonders for precut waterslide transfers like the kind from GW or Mighty Brush. The practical solution to this problem is to varnish and sand a couple of times, but that sucks and takes forever. Have you tried Tamiya Mark Fit Strong? It's extremely hot, and it'll melt just about any decal you throw at it.
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Mar 9, 2024 02:17
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Is there a decent airbrush tank combo for $100? Looks like the iwata eclipse is $200 which is a bit much i think Short answer, no. Longer answer, a tanked compressor is about a hundred bucks or so by itself, and you probably want a brush that costs about the same to start with. lovely compressors and airbrushes are going to make your life miserable. Don't buy a $500 Sparmax compressor and an H&S Infinity for your first setup either - those things are nice, but it's not worth it when you're starting out, and you're going to bend a needle or lose a nozzle somewhere along your route to learning to use the tool. Do this with a cheaper brush that's got easy-to-find replacement parts, instead of having to buy a whole new $50 crappy brush. Those cordless bottle-and-airbrush combos are only good for stuff you'd use a rattlecan for, so if you can't drop something in the $250-ish range right now, just save your pennies a while longer.
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Mar 13, 2024 19:40
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Lostconfused posted:I find airbrushing fun, even when it's only applying primer or a basecoat. Here's what you do. Go to your local hobby shop and buy the Tamiya 1/35th Panzer II. It'll cost you between ten and fifteen bucks tops, it goes together like magic, and it's a big boxy thing with flat surfaces and stamped-in detail that's great to learn how to shade on. It even comes with some figures you can test out. It's cheap as can be, ubiquitously available, and the best part is, if you gently caress it up, it's a lovely German tank and the only people who will care suck. Once you're done with the first paint job, repaint it in increasing garish colors, or hack it up to make it into a very cheap terrain piece.
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Mar 13, 2024 20:48
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There's two general parts to the argument against the Harbor Freight/Canadian Tire/whatever cheap brush. 1) They tend to be a massive pain to clean because they're not very well-engineered, and cleaning is the worst part of airbrushing, so why make that harder on a novice than it absolutely has to be? Quality of life is a huge factor in actually finishing out projects. 2) If you're buying a crappy airbrush for thirty bucks just to use for priming and base coating, and you're planning to buy a nicer brush that will let you actually paint for realsies at 80-100 bucks, why not spend ~$100 instead of ~$130? Ultimately, if anyone has enough budgetary leeway to buy tiny plastic army figures at a hobby market rate, they have enough money to buy a decent set of tools. That may mean keeping the hobby budget minimal for a month or two to save up for the nicer thing, but buy once, cry once is a pretty real thing when it comes to tools with tight tolerances.
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Mar 14, 2024 01:17
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I kept trying but could barely make any difference, I just don't think this Pixel 8 has a very good sensor tbqh. One light or two key lights, move the light closer or father back, turn down the power, etc, the camera keeps doing post processing it thinks is useful which makes it harder to modify and has a weird pixellation. Maybe I need to not use the default camera app. Seconding Open Camera if you're using an Android phone. If nothing else, you can set the white balance to manual to get it to stop loving up your values.
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Mar 15, 2024 18:13
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armorer posted:I've pretty much only painted terrain over the past few years, although a fair amount of it. I have a bunch of craft acrylics, and they're fine for that but pretty lousy for painting minis. To dip my toes in the miniature painting world, I got the Reaper Bones "Layer Up!" kit and found it super intuitive. I'm planning to pick up their "Core Skills" kit as well, mostly so I have some guided projects to work on because I tend to learn pretty well that way. What are you looking for from that kit specifically? If you just want comparable paint, that's basically everything out there on the market that's not craft paint. If you want a pre-made kit with some brushes and maybe some thinner, you can get that from a bunch of retailers, though you should probably just buy your own. If you want a set of pre-constructed triads (shade, base color, highlight) straight from the company, that's harder. I think you're mostly stuck with Reaper, Army Painter, and Two Thin Coats. I assume there's a GW set out there that has a corresponding tutorial video for beginners, but I don't have enough back catalog on their videos to say for sure.
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Mar 18, 2024 20:00
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armorer posted:I don't need the brushes, I have quite a few already. What I liked about the kit I went through already is that it gives good color recipes for different sections of the models, and it presents it all in a really cohesive way. It has you paint fabric, leather, chainmail, a few different skin tones, a blade, etc and walks you through which paints work well together as base/shadow/highlight. You can get about half that, ultimately. I'd do a search for Youtube videos on how to paint a particular model or type of model you're enamored of, but beyond that, there's not a lot of sets out there where you open the box and it gives you kind of a paint-by-numbers thing for the model within.
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Mar 18, 2024 22:13
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The beat-up synthetic fiber brush that you use for stippling or as a spatula seems like the hobby equivalent of your old pair of jeans with all the holes, where it's just something you've had for ages and you're not fully cognizant of where the thing came from at this point, but you'd never willingly part with it.
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Mar 18, 2024 23:15
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Akira Toriyama died earlier this month, so I decided to paint up a statuette he designed.     This is very much an old school model kit. Most comes off the sprue in big, solid chunks that you would logically lay out as a person, not a thin shell of weird ribbons cut out of the forms like when you run it through a slicer. Also, I'm pretty sure that the original sculpt was made out of greenstuff, based on the textures that got transferred to the mold. It's pretty charming, barring that drat bag strap outright not fitting no matter what you do to it. Anyway, painting a big miniature was a lot of fun and I highly recommend it if you can find one you like. Get you a 75mm model or something, it rules.
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Mar 24, 2024 04:58
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e ^ That's awfully thick. My titanium white is probably a little thinner than most of my other ProAcryls. Monument's Faded Plum and Dark Plum are extremely good desaturated light purples and rich purple-reds, respectively. The Royal Purple out of the Vince set is okay, but I'd rather spend a couple more bucks and get a gigantic thing of dioxazine purple gouache that I'll never run out of.
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Apr 2, 2024 18:16
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VMA Steel (71.065) is a pretty good general-purpose silver, but yeah, their regular lines are kinda underwhelming when it comes to metallics. VMC looks drat gorgeous in the silver ranges, though.
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Apr 5, 2024 19:41
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Are they still working on becoming the official Rosemary distributor for the US? I heard the rumor, but I can't actually find anything official from Monument on the subject.
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Apr 5, 2024 22:48
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A decal setting solution of some type is not utterly necessary, but it's kind of like a decent sable brush versus whatever synthetic you can grab at the local big box store. It's a huge quality of life increase. Though if you get Microsol/set over one of the JP solutions that come in a fat, heavy glass bottle, maybe tape them down or find a holder for them or something. I've never used an entire Micro-etc bottle because I've always knocked most of it over, repeatedly.
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Apr 10, 2024 23:59
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Harvey Mantaco posted:I tried decals yesterday and spilled the microsol bottle all over the place and it doesn't smell great I wasn't kidding about those drat bottles. A long, thin, open-topped bottle for a low-viscosity fluid is a bad idea, dammit.
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Apr 12, 2024 01:41
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   Sixty clanrats, or, no good photos, they're clanrats.
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Apr 28, 2024 00:11
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Yeah, I just bought a bunch of pigments for use in making paints from scratch and they've been great for any modelling task you care to name. You can buy a couple of pots the size of a foundation container in an array of colors. It'll give you more pigment than you'll be able to use in a lifetime, plus you can mix the stuff to make your own shades. Mine came from https://earthpigments.com/
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Apr 28, 2024 20:05
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Well, poo poo. I'm a little intimidated going after Light Show Belakor now, but I also painted some Chaos gremlins.  I did Hellboy so I could figure out how to do this one.     Lessons learned: If you do a lot of effects on your face with inks, let them cure over night instead of varnishing over them in the next couple of hours, because they will reactivate and run. Edge highlighting on pink foam is really hard to make look nice. I'm going to try to seal the stuff with some thinned mod podge next time, because those edges are ratty as hell. Purple continues to be the all-purpose Chaos shade color.
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Apr 29, 2024 07:00
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Are the Vallejo color-shift paints any less awful about turning to chunks of latex in the tube?
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May 2, 2024 05:10
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 02:21 |
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For USians, Spraygunner is running a $50 off promotion for their specialty H&S Infinity lines. You can get a Chameleon 2023, Kyiv or Giraldez version for a bit cheaper with the checkout code 34V28ZEEYVJM. They still aren't cheap, but fifty bucks is fifty bucks.
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May 10, 2024 20:55
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