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Kylaer posted:Ahh. Wrong tool for the job I guess On the bright side, if you want to make it look smoother, having that contrast red there will make a normal red cover over it better, and give you a solid colour in fewer coats.
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Mar 24, 2024 14:40
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 04:28 |
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mellonbread posted:Painted my first miniature: a Leonidas smartgunner from SYNDICAT, along with a C4T multipurpose robot. For a first miniature that is really very good. Well done.
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Mar 25, 2024 16:11
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Shades want to break surface tension and run into the recesses. It's what they are chemically designed to do. When they can't do that they will always try to form pools on a flat surface. You can get around this by using an airbrush to spray them as a 'filter' wherein you're applying a very thin transparent and even coat all over. Or, if you don't have access to an airbrush, a large flat headed brush like this: Load the brush so that it's wet but not carrying a large amount (relative to its size), and then work in smooth careful strokes over one area of the model at a time. You're aiming to get enough down to have the tinting effect you desire, and remain wet long enough for you to finish working on that area. But not wet enough that it can pull itself into a pool. This is a WiP picture of a tank I did a few years ago using the latter method and the older GW shades which stained more than the modern ones:  As you can see, there was some pooling/staining. I wasn't too fussed because it's a Nurgle vehicles and I was going to do more weathering to hide those flaws. What you could do to repair them is very gentle drybrush the base colour over the area where the shade has pooled to try and buff it out. Alternatively make/buy a pre-made glaze in the colour you desire. That would go down like any other paint, but evenly transparent. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 02:24
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With metallic sprays it can be worth doing a light coat of normal primer on the model before hitting it with the metal. This is because the metallic can form that incredibly satin/gloss sheen with little 'tooth' so other paints, especially washes, struggle to adhere.
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Mar 27, 2024 16:13
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:https://www.warhammer-community.com/2024/03/24/golden-demon-2024-winners-revealed-at-adepticon/ At that level they are usually judging based on flaws. Presumably numbers two and three had more technical errors that the judges could see.
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Mar 27, 2024 17:53
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armorer posted:Y'all probably know this already but I just found them - There are a ton of textured panels on thingiverse and printables that you can use for testing paint on your brush when drybrushing. While better than nothing, you really want the material to be wood, because the idea is to let you balance moisture and paint load in the drybrush. If you use tissue/kitchen paper you take out all the moisture and your drybrushed paint will go on too dry resulting in chalky finish. If you use plastic you just take out paint but leave moisture in the brush. Textured wood will let you take out water until it feels right, and then add paint and take that off until you're depositing the right amount.
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Mar 29, 2024 19:38
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 04:28 |
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If you are going to freehand a pattern like that. Try doing all of the straight lins first, so it's a grid. You could possibly stencil the grid using thin model masking tape to do one set of lines, then mask again for the other direction. Then go back and paint in the break points afterwards.
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Apr 28, 2024 20:38
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