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Lostconfused posted:Well I'm certainly not surprised by Europeans not being bothered by the Holocaust. Arent you? Why not?
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Mar 1, 2024 14:21
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 09:11 |
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Psyber Spine posted:Picked up a 3d printed Rincewind from etsy just for fun. I'm a big Discworld fan so this was a really cool find. You linked the post instead of the image. Edit to add: And Rincewind looks pretty cool, good job!
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Mar 2, 2024 00:03
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Did a little painting; Dawn Serpent (Malifaux 3e). Pleased with how he turned out, the base ended up pretty nice, and the figure was fun albeit fairly simple. I printed the shrine rock base thing about a year ago with no clear idea where I'd end up using it, and it finally came in handy to make it look like the lil dragon could fly.  A couple of Draugr (Malifaux 3e). Yeah, I'd only heard the word in Skyrim too, but apparently they are an actual myth from scandinavian sagas.  And a cyberpunk riot cop (3d printed, Unit9 on MMF), test figure for a little squad of them. Got some proacryl white and paynes grey, thought it would be a good place for them, but the paynes grey (the cloth parts) is a little too close to the black when its dried. Dont hate it, just was hoping for a little less monochrome. Will probably still do the rest of them to match though. 
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Mar 2, 2024 21:42
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Flipswitch posted:Anyone have any advice on using pigments or how to lock them into bases? Im planning on using some for dust build up on some bases but not quite sure how to do it yet. I am planning to watch some tutorials online later. Anything that locks them down will change the look/texture to a greater or lesser extent. I've not got a huge amount of experience with them, but I have played around on some figures, and honestly I came to the conclusion that I'm best off not locking them in 99% of the time. I apply them with a brush as a final (post varnish) step, then tap the base on the desk to get any excess off, then I just leave it, it sticks well enough. Especially if its just on the base/feet of a model, because how often do you touch the top of the base of a painted model?
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Mar 6, 2024 00:00
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Professor Shark posted:I was under the impression that not fixing them was a Bad Idea Why? I've not found any particular drawback so far (although I'm ready to be corrected).
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Mar 6, 2024 16:59
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Cease to Hope posted:unfixed pigment powders are literally dust, so they get brushed or blown or shaken off of dry surfaces If you were hoping for a dust pile, sure, that wouldnt work, but if you want someone to have dusty boots and trousers from walking over their dusty base... Yeah, that shits on there good enough. It'll come off if you run a dry paintbrush over it, or prod it with your greasy finger, but level with me, how often are you doing either of those things to the boots of your painted figures? Edit to add: I'm not fundamentally against fixing pigment powders, I just havent found a method that retains the "dusty" look rather than giving at best a "dried caked on mud" look, which is great if thats what you're going for, but not so good if its a desert theme. So I dont fix them, and I'm happy with the result. SiKboy fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Mar 6, 2024 |
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Mar 6, 2024 17:41
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:Because Airbrushes have a reputation for being finnicky, and I'd rather gently caress up a $30 brush than a $100 brush. Plus, you can make the same argument for a $200 brush vs. a $100 brush. I can believe that's true for the cheapest airbrushes you get in compressor + airbrush combo kits, but the ~$30 brushes seem usable. For what its worth, Vinnie V agrees with you on that one. When I got my (cheap) airbrush a few months back I more or less marathoned a bunch of "getting started airbrushing" videos and in (one of) his ones he essentially says "Know you will ruin your first airbrush by mistake, accept that will happen, buy a cheap airbrush to ruin and upgrade later when you are confident you wont ruin a better one". So far I havent ruined mine, and for all that it was cheap I've not had any particular problems disassembling or cleaning it. Lots and lots of problems getting paint consistency vs air pressure right, but no problems I can blame on the brush.
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Mar 14, 2024 18:21
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Did a little more painting, all Malifaux 2 Dead Doxies. That tiny blue hat fell off the hand and got temporarily lost once while building, and then another twice when painting.  And a Wanyudo (which is apparently from japanese folk tales, a burning wheel with a face in the middle). Not the best fire I've ever done, but the weird orientations made it tough to judge which should be the brightest parts of the flames. 
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Mar 17, 2024 14:35
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Lostconfused posted:Need to build up painting stamina, slathering green contrast paint on 30 gretchin/orks is my limit for the day. About ten at a time is more or less my limit for batch painting before it starts to feel like a chore rather than a hobby. Harvey Mantaco posted:Forgive me Where on earth did you get buff pokemon minis/stls?
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Mar 18, 2024 18:30
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Kylaer posted:Thank you for the feedback. It's a contrast paint (Blood Angels red) and I think the issue is that I hosed up the priming again, using the last of my spray can primer. I did another coat on the shin armor and it did very little to cover up the streaks so I didn't bother on the carapace. Contrast paints can struggle to get even coverage over large smooth surfaces (like big armour panels) and try to pool weirdly/streak when you use them like that, even over a flawless primer coat. It can be done (either by using an airbrush or by being super careful/vigilant with a brush, I find almost an overbrushing technique works better than my usual "slop it on and move it around" contrast paint technique) but honestly over things like that I'd kind of recommend just reverting to "basecoat, wash, highlight" with regular acrylics. Also would probably be a bit more opaque and do more to cover the uneven primer.
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Mar 24, 2024 12:36
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Kylaer posted:Ahh. Wrong tool for the job I guess Yeah, so dont beat yourself up about it. You didnt struggle to get coverage because you are bad at this, you just were missing a piece of information. You now know for next time, next one you paint (or indeed this one if you fancy having another crack at doing the carapace, you can always just paint over the current coat if you want to) will be better simply because you now know a limitation of your tools and can select a more appropriate one.
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Mar 24, 2024 13:18
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armorer posted:If I want to play around a bit with zenithal highlighting, but don't have an airbrush (and don't plan on getting one anytime soon), what's my best option? I could do a black primer basecoat and then spray on Tamiya white fine surface primer maybe? Or drybrush the white on? I don't trust my drybrushing skills enough to get the same directional effect that a spray would accomplish. Any non-airbrushers here have a preferred approach for this? Either will work, drybrushing or a rattlecan. Drybrush is closer to slapchop than a true zenithal, but as long as you mainly drybrush from the top down it'll do a decent enough approximation. But personally I usually use rattlecans, spray it a dark colour (black is traditional, but I find it a bit dark if I'm painting with contrast type paints, so I usually go with a chocolate brown as my dark, feel free to experiment here), then a light colour from a high angle. You can also combine both approaches, do the bulk of the work with a rattlecan then touch up any areas that you want to be lighter with a quick drybrush. Or use an off-white for your light colour then selectively drybrush white to push the contrast more on the highest spots. Zenithal with rattlecans is honestly barely more effort than just priming with one.
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Mar 27, 2024 18:55
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Z the IVth posted:Do you need the beads for the mixer to work? I'm a bit leery of beads as I suspect they're going to jam my droppers. No, a vortex mixer will work without any kind agitator in the pot, but it works better and quicker with than without. And you dont have to worry much about them jamming the droppers tbh, just hold the bottle so its at a slight angle instead of at 90 degrees to your desk and its pretty much a non issue. Obviously if you squeeze and nothing comes out stop squeezing until you've investigated just in case, but thats already true for clogged nozzles too.
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Apr 2, 2024 10:29
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Z the IVth posted:You've gotten a bunch of good advice already but here are my 2p You can absolutely use dropper bottle paints without a wet palette. Any rigid non-porous surface will make a servicable hard palette which is absolutely fine for starting off. Like I love my wet palette but I still use a hard palette a lot of the time for various reasons, its fine. As someone mentioned a piece of plastic from a blister pack, a spare tile or old side plate will do fine. Wet palettes just keep the paint hydrated for longer and can help with thinning which, dont get me wrong, is nice but isnt necessary at all. I totally agree that £10 for a bottle of nuln oil is properly insane. I disagree that the solution is for someone buying supplies to get back into the hobby after an extended break to go straight into oil washing. Its a different type of paint, with its own solvent, and its own learning curve. Just buy a cheaper acrylic black wash from literally any other paint company who does washes. Black wash is black wash. Agrax is a harder direct replacement, I loving hate the new contrast-like formulation and dont remember what Army Painter have called their equivalent of old-agrax. I know it used to be strong tone but then they changed all the wash names (and presumably have changed them again with the refresh of their paint line). Again, nothing wrong with oil washes but it doesnt feel like a "first week back at the paint desk after 8 years" activity. Same reason I'm not suggesting "gently caress around with inks, flow improver and matt medium and make a big bottle of home made agrax!". I've got synthetic brushes I've been painting with for over a year which have not hooked/developed a J-tip at all. All synthetic brushes will do that eventually, absolutely, but not "within a few hours". I've got a nice sable brush too, but buying it didnt make me a better painter or let me do anything I cant do with my synthetics, it just meant I had a comparatively pricey brush I had to actually care about and use brush soap on and be careful with, and I probably shouldnt use with contrasts or washes... gently caress that, cheap synthetic brushes 4 lyfe. If one hooks it gets chucked into the coffee can of disposable brushes for PVA/Oil washes/drybrushing/texture pastes. Makeup brushes for drybrushing is a good tip though, I have a pack of cheapest of the cheap lil makeup brushes from amazon and when they all die I'll buy more. Yeah, dont cheap out on side cutters, a nice pair is absolutely worth it in saving time, preventing mistakes and generally removing some frustration. I'd personally recommend you get a nice set for removing models from sprues which you use for literally nothing else, and a cheapo amazon special set for cutting literally anything else (paperclips/brass rod for pinning figures, coffee stirrers to make planks for basing, your toenails, I dont care) because that will keep the expensive set nice for longer.
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Apr 4, 2024 11:51
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Z the IVth posted:It might just be how dry my environs is but with dropper paints the need for a wet palette is acute. I do have a ziploc bag that I use as a dry palette for drybrushing or when I can;t be bothered to open up the wet for a quick job but I find the paint goes from ok to dry within 15 minutes or so and the consistency changes very rapidly in this time. For quick jobs nbd but if I'm going to be slowly laying on paint I prefer the wet. It's really no bother to make one. I wouldn't suggest going out to buy RGG's latest and greatest as the first move though! I'm not buying good synthetics, the brushes that have lasted me over a year came from poundland (they do a pack of 2 "daler and rowney" branded brushes for £1, one hilariously big so only really useful for terrain or maybe tanks, but the other a size 1 with a decent belly and a nice point. The "watercolour" pack, not the "golden acrylic" pack) and temu or possibly wish.com (hosed if I remember which chinese reseller website I got them off, all I can tell you is they were like 20 for £5 or something like that, and I think the pictures were all nail art or calligraphy in the listing). Now, synthetics are something of a lottery, no doubt, but I figured if I got a year out the pack of 20 and you got a year out your series 33, I come out ahead both by saving some money and by having extra junk brushes.
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Apr 4, 2024 12:37
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Spanish Manlove posted:Revisit this post after trying a sable brush that has the same surgical precision over that three year lifespan and has a thick enough belly to hold enough paint to actually glaze an entire armor panel without reloading. It's such a game changer and I seriously think switching to nice brushes leveled up my skills dramatically Let me just check something real quick... SiKboy posted:I've got a nice sable brush too, but buying it didnt make me a better painter or let me do anything I cant do with my synthetics, it just meant I had a comparatively pricey brush I had to actually care about and use brush soap on and be careful with, and I probably shouldnt use with contrasts or washes... gently caress that, cheap synthetic brushes 4 lyfe. Yeah, I've revisited it and I stand by it.
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Apr 4, 2024 15:36
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mellonbread posted:Painting faces is the hardest part. The basic principles (wash to fill in the nooks and crannies, paint to highlight the important parts) are simple but getting the tiny details right is easier said than done. Placing a pupil in a single eyeball takes me multiple tries and it's going to take a lot more before I can do it consistently. Get a fineliner pen and never try to paint a pupil again.
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Apr 6, 2024 11:57
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Z the IVth posted:What's the trick with these? Every time I've tried a pen (apart from sharpies/chrome markers) on a mini it's never worked right - the ink just doesn't want to flow onto the painter surfaces. No particular trick for micron fineliners for pupils to be honest. If you are using them for stuff like scribbles on scrolls or anything like lettering (for example all my Warhammer Underworlds figures have their name written on the back of the base rim) it can be a good idea to hit the bit you're going to be writing on with matt varnish first so the ink doesnt bleed into the paint, but for pupils you're using so little ink I've never felt the need to do that.
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Apr 6, 2024 17:38
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grassy gnoll posted:Well, poo poo. I'm a little intimidated going after Light Show Belakor now, but I also painted some Chaos gremlins. These look pretty great to me. The frost on the shield and the ice pillars particularly! Any roughness on the edges of the pillars isnt visible in the timg, and even in the full sized close-up just reads as imperfections in the crystal.
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Apr 29, 2024 16:51
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Ominous Jazz posted:is greenstuff naturally sticky or do you have to glue Its sticky while its curing, so for example with your texture roller you might want to dampen it with water a little to reduce that. Similarly if you are sculpting it you might want to keep some water nearby so you can wet the tip of the sculpting tool. I've used a thin coating of vegetable oil when I made a greenstuff press mould so that the (soft) greenstuff doesnt stick to the greenstuff mould, that would probably work on the texture roller too. It can also be helpful to work on some parchment paper (or a mirror/similar flat sheet of glass as long as you are careful not to y'know, shatter the glass) if you are planning on rolling a strip of greenstuff then cutting it to fit a base or something like that. Once the greenstuff cures I find how much it remains stuck to whatever depends on how rough the surface is.
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May 10, 2024 21:36
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Did some more painting. Mostly contrasts/speedpaints and drybrushing, but I'm happy enough with the results. Had a notion to paint up an adventuring party because its been a while since I did any straight-up fantasy.     The blade of the spear on that one dude (Geth? Gith? I've not played D&D since 2e) is supposed to be a bit longer than it is, but the end misprinted and I didnt notice until he was undercoated and half basecoated. At that point I was on a roll so I just trimmed the misprint off and shaved the remains into something that looked good enough rather than reprinting. Then did a bunch of cyberpunk guys (All from UNIT9 on myminifactory)    Guy on the left was a colour test, and when he was done I decided to invert the colours for the rest of the team, the red suit just didnt quite land like I thought it would. He can be their team leader, its still a unified colour scheme. And some Malifaux Tanuki. 
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May 12, 2024 12:07
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