Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

AndyElusive posted:

His power fist is discombobulatingly devastating.




Can you get a pic with an angle showing off the tattoo? That's so sick

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

AndyElusive posted:

You did because after you said that I went and added it! :hfive:



It's a butchered version of the way Louise Sugden shows how to do it on WH+ Masterclass but basically it:

30% Doombull Brown 70% Bloodreaver Flesh basecoat
Progressively more Doombull added to the base to the recesses and shadowed areas
Thinned Rhinox Hide to shadowed areas
Glazes of Word Bearers Red to add spot warmth (like to cheeks, lips/mouth, nose)
Rhinox and Abaddon Black 1:1 around eyes and for the pupils -- Pallid Wych for the scleras and teef
Basecoat to raised areas for highlighting
10% XV-88 + 90% Basecoat to smaller raised areas
30% Karak Stone + 70% Basecoast for more highlight
Then pure Karak for spots

That's so sick. Finally a space marine that will eat your children

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Nessus posted:

Oops my dark ivory paint turned black on the wet palette overnight. I’m guessing this is pigment separation but would it still be good

In general how long will paint stay useful on the wet palette anyway?

Realistically: a few hours

The overnight thing is a magical Christmas land that's not really worth the hassle

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
On a scale of a straw filled with nuln oil to a badger patriot or iawata eclipse what's your budget on this incredibly vague question?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Cannibal Smiley posted:

I think that I have my answer. Thanks for the help! Now I just have to chop up some brushes for stippling work.

you really don't need to murder a brush to get that effect

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAkJH8G-5GE

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Bark! A Vagrant posted:

I'm starting my first attempt at really strong OSL and I'd like to get a more exact idea of where the light is hitting than eyeballing it. Does anybody know of any easy-ish way to do that with software? Or have general advice? My thought if software doesn't exist was to use a bunch of straightened tiny paperclips and sticky tack to physically map out the edges of the light and take a few reference pictures.

Turn the lights off, put a small light exactly where you want the light source to be, take a picture of the model for reference

If you want to nerd it up with CAD sure go ahead

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I think I'm done with the main part of Leman Russ so here's some WIP shots of the progress last night where I finally painted the head. The armor was so much edge highlighting that I will never be scared by it again. Now to tackle the scenic base



I didn't have the exact colors I wanted for the hair and face so I got a little artsy by mixing stuff together. It was really fun to just say gently caress it and mix things together by eye. Now that I'm seeing this I forgot to highlight the bone tassel in his hair but that's an easy fix





Buying a larger wet palette really came in handy for this. Oddly enough, the trick to painting blonde hair is to use a gold nmm color progression

Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Mar 19, 2024

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Yeah I was watching a Vince V video the other day and he goes "blonde hair doesn't have much yellow in it" and it was such a game changer having that pointed out.

After a little tinkering I was like "oh yeah duh" and then ended up mixing yellow into a golden brown and then mixing ice yellow into that mixture. I did some last highlights with ice yellow but it felt too valley girl so I toned it back down with a thin glaze of the previous highlight

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Mr Teatime posted:

My kingdom for a video guide explaining how to paint chaos gold trim like the gw studio does. I’ve had it explained to me, I’ve seen pictures but I just can’t get it right.

Paint gold first, fill in the middle parts after. Otherwise just relax and paint very carefully

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Super Waffle posted:

Anyone have tops using washes on large flat areas? Been painting a rhino for my Iron Warriors and my usual recipe of prime black -> AP Gunmetal spray -> Nuln Oil is just not working. The Nuln just pools all weirdly and the panels just look messy and splotchy and dirty in a not good way.

uhhh the answer is "dont wash large flat areas" as that goes against the entire purpose of washing to begin with: to put darker stuff in the recesses to help the eye distinguish where one shape ends and another begins

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Lumpy posted:

Plus they look different in person. I was there, and the photos don't do a lot of those pieces justice.

Ben Kantor's piece looks absolutely insane on their instagram with the black background, second picture in this gallery

https://www.instagram.com/p/C48PjVqLZYC/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Eej posted:

Well here's an easy example:



This one won based on (imo) the clarity of movement in the piece. The ice bridge is rougher in front and flows out into smooth lines at the back which intuitively gives you an idea of where the model is moving. The fur in the front is painted with diagonally downwards lines, to evoke the feeling of the elk pushing powerfully with its front legs and the fur further to the back is more horizontal, to indicate the movement of the body itself. The cloak too has highlight lines starting sharper to the front and diffusing out towards the back. It's also highlighted in warmer colours towards the front and ends up in a cold blue towards the back, kind of like a comet trail (the bright is where it's going, the darker is where it's leaving). Everything is done to indicate to you that Thranduil on his elk is charging forward.

Knowing Marco he probably finished that in an afternoon

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Kylaer posted:

I'm going to make an order from Pro Acryl because their titanium white is so well regarded and nobody stocks it locally. Are there any other colors from their line that are must-haves?

Also order new bottle caps from them. People usually hate the stock ones at first and it just saves headaches.

Basically every color in the vince venturella package is fantastic. But unlike a lot of companies, their paints perform pretty uniformly. Like I haven't found one that requires me to work with it differently or require a different level of thinning. Some cover better than others (looking at you, greens and yellows) but they're all fantastic across the board.

Edit: my bottle of titanium white seems to be acting weird in that it's way thicker than the rest of the line, and it comes out more like a traditional heavy body acrylic. Is it hosed up or is that just how it is for everyone else?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
It could just be that I need to clean out the cap, I'm going to try that tonight.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

SiKboy posted:

I'm not buying good synthetics, the brushes that have lasted me over a year came from poundland (they do a pack of 2 "daler and rowney" branded brushes for £1, one hilariously big so only really useful for terrain or maybe tanks, but the other a size 1 with a decent belly and a nice point. The "watercolour" pack, not the "golden acrylic" pack) and temu or possibly wish.com (hosed if I remember which chinese reseller website I got them off, all I can tell you is they were like 20 for £5 or something like that, and I think the pictures were all nail art or calligraphy in the listing). Now, synthetics are something of a lottery, no doubt, but I figured if I got a year out the pack of 20 and you got a year out your series 33, I come out ahead both by saving some money and by having extra junk brushes.

Revisit this post after trying a sable brush that has the same surgical precision over that three year lifespan and has a thick enough belly to hold enough paint to actually glaze an entire armor panel without reloading. It's such a game changer and I seriously think switching to nice brushes leveled up my skills dramatically

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I still use a ton of the bargain bin brushes for a lot of work, particularly for the initial sloppy stages. But the meticulous level of detail and precision when going that extra mile really benefits from a quality tool that you don't have to fight with or hold a certain way because the tip is starting to hook.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I use old pill bottles filled with rocks and some double sided tape on the top.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Pro-acryl has some nice starter sets, and even has a bulk buy discount that basically lets you make your own starter set out of the paints you want. It's generally better to have an idea of what you want to paint before buying paints as most of the time with the starter kits you'll use 6/8 of the paints and never find a good use for the other 2, effectively eliminating the discount of buying the bundle.

Pro-acryl are also very beginner friendly as there's very little thinning required for them and their coverage is awesome.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
The size 4 sable from monument (red handle) has been my go to for a lot of things lately, love that thing

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

great big cardboard tube posted:

So pretty close now to mashing the "place your order" button in a couple tabs from a couple stores after adjusting for what you all kindly suggested. Got slightly pricier but Im planning on taking my time using this to relax over many many hours so that's fine if I enjoy it more.

Tamiya 74123 clippers instead of random ones. Junk bulk brushes, the old Vallejo paint set and overpriced GW washes out. I'm leaning towards just using monument gaming for all the paints and washes and brushes after seeing good reviews and realizing I can get 15% off individuals if I order in batches and I can just skip the colors I'm not planning on using for the dominion models for now. And y'know they're already released.

Is this brush set decent value or a gouge? I do feel like I need a couple big cheap brushes I can ruin drybrushing and slopping on base texture with and then a few different sizes to try out actually painting again. And a ton of their brushes are just sold out, idk if that's a good or bad sign.

Also I keep hearing their pro acryl white is the best out there but is there any particular color they suck at and I should find another brand for or are they just universally pretty good?

It's slightly less expensive than buying the two good brushes there (the sable ones) but realistically you can do a lot of work with just the #3 brush of theirs and cut out the really tiny one. And yeah the big cheap brushes can be bought in bulk at an art store, Michaels or hobby lobby. Look at brushes meant for classrooms as they come in a box of 100 for like $10 and they're meant to be destroyed by kids using them for swordfights.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

SuperKlaus posted:

Can I get some advice on the creation and use of sprue goo? I have some extra Citadel plastic glue now that I bought some Tamiya and naturally I have oodles of sprues.

put about 3 cm of cut up sprues in the acetone, wait overnight. look how thick it is by testing it on whatever thing you're willing to throw away, if it's not thick enough then add more until it's to your liking

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Cardboard Fox posted:

BTW if anyone else is having this problem with Vallejo Game Color: I fixed it.

The issue is with my wet pallet. It has wayyyy too much water in it. Using a new pallet that doesn't have traces of water droplets everywhere solved the paint splitting issues.

Before you put paint on the palette, did you wipe off the excess water on top of the paper?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Cardboard Fox posted:

No since I just assumed I would use it to thin the paints, but this is Vallejo we're talking about, which doesn't require much thinning.

With the new palette, I make sure there's no additional water on the paper.

eh, that's not usually part of the instructions on how to use one so it's understandable. I recall making that mistake once or twice, happens to everyone.

Also be careful with how much water the sponge has, it's really easy to forget to check it during a long painting session and then wonder "why are my paints drying out so quickly on here" then realize there's no water for the sponge.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I've been getting a lot of mileage out of my DIY painting handles that are just old pill bottles filled with rocks and some double sided tape. Also here's a bird




It's pretty much all contrast paints aside from the black/white parts and the bone on the base. Did a little bit of wet blending on the dorsal parts of the wings and I'm happy with how much it looks like the catalina macaw that I used as a reference photo.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

armorer posted:

I'm asking about articulated arm platforms, which hold the parts you've cut off the sprue in place while gluing (or applying green stuff, miliput, etc). I have painting handles covered pretty well.

Thanks for the note on superglue accelerator though, I should get some of that as well. All I'm seeing are spray bottles of it, does anyone sell a dropper bottle?

If you take off the spray bottle cap you can use the hose on the inside to drip the accelerant like a makeshift dropper bottle. Or use a cheap plastic pipette.

As for the articulated arm platforms, any "helping hands" type device will work for it

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Frog Act posted:

Instead of making GBS threads up the 40k thread with my scrub painting questions I figure I'll ask in here. What's the best way to apply stuff from a transfer sheet? Are 'ardcoat and Lahmian Medium really necessary? I have some Speedpaint Medium but I'm assuming that is a different type of medium, and I don't have any gloss, so I guess I should wait to try to use them until after acquiring those things?

You want micro sol and micro set. Really just micro sol, but the set helps a lot in the first step.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQiDs9nI7P4

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Xenomrph posted:

But how does it taste?

Like the stuff used for dyeing eggs

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Cthulu Carl posted:

Slapped some paint on the Legally Distinct Jo, Bill, Dusty, and Haynes minis from Black Site to try and run their tornado chasing game tonight or tomorrow.



What paint did you use on the second model's pants? It looks pretty spot on for blue jeans

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Cease to Hope posted:

apparently vallejo model color is switching to a new formulation too. picked up a couple of bottles to try.

if they gently caress up or discontinue dark sand, i am going to kill a mf

same but all the colors that have the word Sea in them. Dark Sea Green, Dark Sea Grey, Dark Sea Blue, Light Sea Grey and Light Sea Green have amazing coverage and interesting tones that work so well on a lot of things

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
100% drybrush on white then use striking scorpion contrast paint

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Quote isn't edit, wtf

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

nessin posted:

The sum total of my painting experience is four and a half miniatures. 2, and the half, of those were painted over 20 years ago when I was playing with others and using borrowed minis until I picked up my own right before our group suddenly disbanded. The other two were last week as I had the most ridiculous idea ever to suddenly paint the miniatures from a boardgame. Just laying that out to provide context for where I'm coming from.

Is there any useful videos that show basic painting techniques to get to a satisfactory looking miniature? For me, that's been surprisingly hard to find. Lots of videos have tons of issues that prevent that like:

1) I'm going to use an airbrush, but it isn't necessary. Except it is for me, because if I try and emulate the method and it doesn't come out right I have no idea if it's a experience/skill/practice issue or a lack of an airbrush issue.

2) Just use this quick hack (washes, contrast paint, etc...). Not useful for actually teaching me how to get better and instead focused on whatever specific trick is at play. Nothing wrong with using those tools, but if I've got no clue how to make a quality product without them how in the hell am I supposed to learn how to use them effectively for more than that specific quick hack?

3) Here is this tutorial, but we're going to speed it up 10x going through the movements or jump cut past everything after a few brush strokes, have fun following along.

Probably the most useful actual video I've found so far was from the Squidmar Miniatures youtube channel who had a video on doing manual highlighting and shading from a mid-tone instead of using washes (or layering up/down entirely). Nothing else has yet to convince me I've actually learned something useful to build a good foundation from instead of being a gimmick.

Bonus points if someone can recommend something useful using oil paints. I get that they are a very niche option but all the video tutorials for using oil paints seem to require knowing what you're doing with acrylics first and using acrylic paint for various things first before getting to the oil paints. From my perspective that seems insane, why would I use oils if they require me learning and using acrylics first? I'd just spend the time getting good with acrylic. The few oil only examples I found are mainly from James Wappel who does great work, but he runs through the basics to get the specific more advanced thing he's working on and I haven't found a good explainer of the basics in his archive yet.

This entire playlist

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLcdsbwBroEmCplpQ_s3jSuxW8-1KQrsfT

Vince Venturella may be a little dry but he gets to the point. And his channel is like an encyclopedia on painting techniques, paints, colors, you name it he has it.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
A popsicle stick works just fine in my experience, but I use silicone clay shapers so I can poke more efficiently into crevices

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
The new army painter metallics feel very similar to Vallejo metal color, which is less viscous than the acrilic true metallic metals you're used to. Just don't thin it with anything and don't overload your brush.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
You're never going to escape that allegation, every marine with fur is a space wolf.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Just make sure you don't have pairs of lightning bolts, which an annoying amount of space wolves will have

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Fishing line? A brass rod? Paperclip? Copper wire?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Also I think that heating up sprue thing comes from Louise Sugden having to figure out a creative way to accomplish something without UHU glue because GE wouldn't let her use a non-GW product on something

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Are you poking the surface at a normal angle with your brush? Or gently stroking the surface with the side of the tip of the brush?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Brown / sepia for grimy and worn.

Blue to make for interesting chromatic shadows

Green if the rest of the model is organic

Yellow if it's on fire

Purple if you're colorblind

Black if you're a basic bitch

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply