Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Shoehead posted:

Yes another pot of acyclic paint will surely fix me

Each pot is a step away from the light of the dropper bottle.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Put the tracks on and some varnish before I make it even dirtier than it already is

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I like painting, it hits my ocd just right like other nerdy things, I hate army painting because it gives me goals, pressures, and deadlines which obviously doesn't mix well with the rest.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Well I'm certainly not surprised by Europeans not being bothered by the Holocaust.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008


I imagine Vince's video on contrast might be helpful here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeEuPGYIVM8

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Golden High Flow acrylics are good.

Straight into the airbrush without thinning, no cloging or drying.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Used them to do a quick zenithal highlight





Maybe they have a satin finish, but doesn't seem glossy to me.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

That first photo is bare GW plastic lol.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

4K paint porn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AsJgcXvdCQ

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

priming with an airbrush is very good, I just love seeing colors change as the paint gets sprayed on. From brown to black, and then highlighting it from grey to white.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I think you should play the game and not stress about painting.

I think painting is fun but trying to get an army painted is too stressful. It's also not satisfying.

There's also so much more work to putting an army together besides just painting, that stressing about painting and making painting stressful is very counter productive. Do it at your own pace and don't force yourself.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I haven't been painting my army because I can't decide on which green to use as the primary color.



The eye searing lime green might be too much for the whole army, and maybe I should save it for a character.

I also realized that I became disappointed with my original paint scheme because the shade wash darkened it too much, and I need to reapply the base layer color again.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Mar 5, 2024

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

A bit of matte varnish spray will fix it up.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Yeah a coat of varnish will do what you want.

I've had speed paints reactivate the liquitex ink I've used for highlights and blend with it when applied on top, but going over with varnish stops that.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

In this case I should mention that I did apply the varnish with an airbrush, but even then I thought it was a pretty thick layer. It was liquitex gloss varnish if that matters any.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I find airbrushing fun, even when it's only applying primer or a basecoat.

And yeah it takes a lot of practice I think to get to a point where you can comfortably paint with it, or at least I haven't gotten there yet.

Wish I could do more with it.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Scalemates looks like it has a pretty big database for paints. You can give that a shot.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

It's too thin if the paint starts to shrink into a pool on a miniature instead of staying where you applied it on the surface. Otherwise it's fine and you apply more layers until you're happy with it imo.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Need to build up painting stamina, slathering green contrast paint on 30 gretchin/orks is my limit for the day.

Did I mention how I don't like batch painting?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Could be airbrush or rattle can sorta spray.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Slowly plugging away at these lads. It's nothing special but I just have fun looking at them, also pleasantly surprised at how well they rank up.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

The winning work is amazing and deserved to win even if it looked correct from a golden angle. The creator making sure it looks right from other points of view just speaks to their dedication and work put into the piece.

As the guys on cult of paint said a good piece of art will have more depth and detail than you will be able to see at first viewing.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Going a day without sleep sure drives me crazy, and that's what it takes to produce some real art right?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

All orks are beautiful.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I know people hate the painting phase guys, but the person they interviewed sounds incredibly creative and artistically talented https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14fr7Z5R6nw. So it was very interesting to listen to him and how he works.

There are "art techniques" but the big part is also thinking about things differently. He's a sculptor and one of the big things I got from his that you need to work with your medium, for organic, smooth, and round objects it's easier to work with putty when it's soft and malleable to produce the desired effect. And the opposite is true for inorganic, a harder putty that dried provides the sharper edges and planes to create that perception.

It's not some incredible revelation or anything, but you could also probably figure these things out on your own when you spent enough time hobbying stuff and your brain isn't constantly occupied with simply getting the basics of shadow and light correctly.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftu5UWoI_Rc

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Need is relative, stuff rolling around on the bottom of the bottle helps pickup whatever pigment or medium settled there. You know like the white stuff that tends to settles at the bottom of citadel contrast paints.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Miniatures Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

That's what Jawas are.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

If you're not painting for a competition where everything has to be perfect I assume it's ok to call things done and move on. You can even tell yourself that someday you'll go back and fix up the parts that still need work, and then never do it because you've moved on to another project or ten since.

Someday I'll go back and paint the shoulder pats in an off color and add decals on my infantry squads. But that day may never come too.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Apr 11, 2024

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

You say that but I knocked over two tamiya thin cement bottles so far.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

You can watch all the tutorial videos you want, but the important part is to get painting. There's no right or wrong way to paint and you need to figure out what works for you by experimenting and trying different things.

The basics are thinning the paint and applying it to the miniature, and you'll learn that by practice. The tutorial videos can't know what you're good or bad at, you have to find that out for yourself, and then you can use all those quick hacks to help out in areas you're having trouble with.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

It also depends on what your spraying, for primer you want a lot of ventilation since you'll be spraying it everywhere at high pressure, while painting at much lower pressure and using a lot less paint wouldn't need as much.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Tried airbrushing Vallejo's "Mecha Color" paint, and I don't like it. They say it's for airbrushing, and sure it kinda works, but it's airbrushing in the same way their primers are. You need a big nozzle and a lot of air pressure to get it to spray nicely, otherwise good luck getting the correct thinner ratio for whatever it is you're using.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I do like how neatly Ursula's fancy stand fits on the base

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

There's a few DeSerres locations around here. At least there's one close enough to me that i've been going to for the past few months.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I refuse to oath, I've been dodging painting by spending the past uh weeks or months gluing miniatures because I find it less stressful.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Gravity is going to have the last laugh there.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Frog Act posted:

painted an Ork boy, my first regular one. This is also the first model I've painted that I'm actually pretty happy with. Super impressive stuff ITT that's motivating me to keep learning
Looks really nice and clean, next step is figuring out how you want to do shades and highlights to give it a bit more contrast and pop.

SkyeAuroline posted:

  • Is this even a good idea? I've seen others do it for other factions, and I've liked how it's turned out, but my taste in paintjobs is a bit askew and maybe it'll just look bad or unfinished to other people.
Paint what makes you happy, because they're your models and you're the person that will care about them most.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 15:38 on May 13, 2024

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Frog Act posted:

Thanks! Any suggestions for how to best do that? I’ve been using Straken Green over Waagh Flesh for the skin, was thinking about maybe a slightly lighter green to put on the raised parts of the arm / edges of the ears and stuff but I’m not sure what a good color for that would be.

I technically already added shading with Nuln Oil and a layer of Straken covering the parts that got too dirty, and I used a Baal Red contrast over the shirt, which I think helped. I have an evil sunz yellow contrast which pops really well with Flash Gitz but I’m afraid to use it on the Averland Sunset pants which I finally managed to get right, they’re much smoother/better looking than my previous models with big yellow spots using FGY, which just seems to be hella patchy
There's a lot of different techniques for doing shades and highlights, but the hardest part is figuring out where the shadows and the highlights go.

As you said you already did the shading on the skin with a wash, that's the most common suggested approach for beginners. Then yeah you re apply the basecoat on the more raised parts to bring back the basecoat color which will be your mid tone. Then you can do an edge highlight, or a dry brush to finish it up. To figure out the correct colors you have the options of looking for someone that did a similar color scheme and copying their paint selection. The other options are buying into a paint range that has the three paint system of shade, mid, highlight for their colors. Or you can mix your own by taking a black/dark grey and mixing it with the base color for shades, and a warm white or a whiteish yellow and mixing it in for highlights.

I'd say the skin could use a tiny bit of highlighting like say on something like the knuckle bones and some other parts.

As for the clothes, that one I don't know, maybe do a light drybrush to catch some of the raised areas on the boots and pants to give it more pop? Well at least from the back, or maybe some edge highlights around the belts.

Then again, you don't have to do any of that if you're already happy and can save experimenting for the next miniature.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply