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Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Also, many people push highlights as a way of adding contrast, to the point where the mini looks washed out. Contrast also requires deep shadows so don't be afraid to move in both directions to get a good result.

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Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Those rats are adorable, I love their little noses and beards!

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Lostconfused posted:

Golden High Flow acrylics are good.

Straight into the airbrush without thinning, no cloging or drying.

Aren't they super glossy though?

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

That first photo looks pretty glossy to me. But I suppose that's easily fixable with a quick matt varnish. I know some of them are also worse in that regard than others, and there are only a few tones I'd pick up... so something to consider when I get my next paycheck.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

LOL, well, that's me told.

Yeah, the second photo has a much better finish.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Also, most painted minis have a matt finish, which means plenty of little micro-crevices for the pigments to get stuck in. I have had pigment powder stain models before, so I really wouldn't be too concerned about it coming off by accident.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

B O N E Z O N E

Quick tester model for a skellie squad I want to enter into a competition in September. Happy with the colours, think I can achieve a level of execution that's comp-worthy.


Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Well, at least you're set for paints for forever. I'm curious about your thoughts, people seem generally positive about the range, but it's hard to tell how much of that is hype and how much is actual quality.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

My biggest issue with the AP boxed set is that it's heavily skewed towards blues and cooler tones. Like, there's what, two, three browns in the 50-paint set? One orange and one red? That's great for people like me that paint in blues and greens, but you'll quickly be wanting another red or two.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

One good thing about the massive array of paints available is that you can't really go wrong with buying any of them. Most miniature paints will be decent at worst, and then it's just a case of buying a few from each line to find out what paints gel the best with your style.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

armorer posted:

Recommend to me some miniature assembly stands please? Holding things in place while super glue dries gets old really fast.

Superglue accelerator. No idea what you mean by an assembly stand though, sorry.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

First proper skellie of the competition squad completed. He'll be fist bumping his buddy in the background. Probably need to work the rust a bit more, feels pretty rough in places, but overall happy with the result.



Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Muir posted:

First 20 skeletons almost done, just need to finish edge highlighting half of them and put snow on the bases:


BONEZONE. Excellent.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Cannibal Smiley posted:

Okay, I'm throwing myself on the mercy of the court here: I have tried multiple brushes and have had the same result every time - the brush holds its point until it hits the miniature, after which it starts fraying, with a number of flyaway hairs springing free of the point and making a mockery of my attempts to paint with it. Winsor-Newton Series 7 do it, Da Vinci brushes do it.

I'm wondering if the problem is that I'm getting too big a brush. I buy Size 2 brushes because you can switch back and forth between covering a lot of ground and suddenly narrowing it down to a fine point depending on how you use the brush, but I'm thinking that maybe the reason why I'm getting so much brush splintering is because I'm only getting paint on the last 20% of the brush and the rest of the brush is just wet. When I go home tonight I'm going to try some brush soap on it, maybe some hair conditioner, but I'm not sure if that's going to make much of a difference. Has anybody else had problems with this kind of thing?

A few questions:

1) Are you buying the brushes from an in-person retailer, where you can test the brush before buying it? Sable brushes, unfortunately, seem to have pretty serious QC issues across all brands, and you may have just been very (very) unlucky. I also suspect that warehouse storage and shipping does a number on brushes, especially with regards to the glue in the ferrule, which can then cause otherwise great brushes to split and fray.

2) Are you reshaping the brush after loading it with paint? Either on a paper towel or your thumb. I don't think only having paint on the last 20% would be an issue - that actually sounds ideal in terms of control, especially if the rest of the brush remains wet.

3) How much pressure do you apply while painting? Do you noticeably see the brush tip distort when you touch it to the model?

4) Does the fraying get worse when the brush is dry?

I've had massive issues with online-ordered Raphael 4804s, and it definitely seems that ordering online is a much riskier prospect than going into a retailer and testing the brush yourself. In general, if this is happening to brand new brushes, the chances are that it's a manufacturing/storage issue, and not how you use them.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

After a long (long) hiatus, the frog is back on the bench. Warming up to tackling the skin by painting some leather bits and the saddle first.

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Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Colliwobble posted:

Figured I'd drop in to post a couple of models I've painted recently.









Yes, love the BONEZONE posts. And an orc, I guess.

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