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Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Bad painting experiences: I’m doing up my Death Guard KT and despite my best efforts with my Krylon Camouflage Sand (heating a d shaking the hell out of), my results were terrible. I tried to make up for it with a quick spray of grey with a can I thought I had unstuck, but that wasn’t great either.

I’m on light drybrush coat 4 of Screaming Skull and while mostly fine, there are still areas where the grey can be seen :11tea::bang:

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Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

SiKboy posted:

Anything that locks them down will change the look/texture to a greater or lesser extent. I've not got a huge amount of experience with them, but I have played around on some figures, and honestly I came to the conclusion that I'm best off not locking them in 99% of the time. I apply them with a brush as a final (post varnish) step, then tap the base on the desk to get any excess off, then I just leave it, it sticks well enough. Especially if its just on the base/feet of a model, because how often do you touch the top of the base of a painted model?

I was under the impression that not fixing them was a Bad Idea

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

AndyElusive posted:

You did because after you said that I went and added it! :hfive:



It's a butchered version of the way Louise Sugden shows how to do it on WH+ Masterclass but basically it:

30% Doombull Brown 70% Bloodreaver Flesh basecoat
Progressively more Doombull added to the base to the recesses and shadowed areas
Thinned Rhinox Hide to shadowed areas
Glazes of Word Bearers Red to add spot warmth (like to cheeks, lips/mouth, nose)
Rhinox and Abaddon Black 1:1 around eyes and for the pupils -- Pallid Wych for the scleras and teef
Basecoat to raised areas for highlighting
10% XV-88 + 90% Basecoat to smaller raised areas
30% Karak Stone + 70% Basecoast for more highlight
Then pure Karak for spots

I’m going to try this out sometime, thanks

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Double Posting:

WIP shots of my Warboss, who I dropped today and had to reassemble before taking these shots (Left Arm is the only place it shows):





The fading I did on the red went more pink than I wanted, I’m going to try washing it with some Khorne to bring it back.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Re: gemstones, I have all the Citadel gem paints and honestly, results are really meh.

Duncan has a new Striking Scorpion painting tutorial out. His painting method looks good and is only three steps or so. Faster than when I did some Blood Angel gems.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Aliensandwich posted:

Looks badass!

This model brings back a ton of memories for me. I used to have the version of this model with the Attack Squig about 20 years ago. :') I was super proud of him.

I have the Attack Squig arm in my bitz box if you ever get the temptation to return to it and need sn arm! I also had this guy 25 years ago and couldn’t paint it the way I envisioned, so this has been a lot of fun for me!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

This model came with a broken back banner, which these models were notorious for, and I toyed with the idea of doing a bunch of snipping, drilling, and pitting in a stronger pole, but in the end the vintage Ork Dread banner with the old Necron head was cool and the easier option!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Extremely cool

Edit: did not hit refresh

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

God did not mean for goon to have that many paints, it’s… *looks at paint collection* oh poo poo, I could have bought so, so much!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Mr Teatime posted:

My kingdom for a video guide explaining how to paint chaos gold trim like the gw studio does. I’ve had it explained to me, I’ve seen pictures but I just can’t get it right.

Battled with this most of the day… just to get a Rhinox basecoat on before the Balthasar. I did a bit of clean up even though I knew I’d be making more mistakes later and realized Screaming Skull will take a few coats to do.

Loving the models, though!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Vampire Pond is possibly the coolest model/ dio I’ve ever seen. Absolutely deserves the win.

Glad to see Ninjon got something- he’s been really worming towards it

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Well, I wanted this guy to be done, but I see from these pics I need to do another round on the flamer tube and revisit the base- I can’t seem to find a muddy brown method I’m happy with.




Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Bark! A Vagrant posted:

Looks great to me, I don't know if orks would worry about perfectly painted hazard stripes but I could see why it'd bother you. The details on the horns :discourse:

Thanks everyone! The horns have been something I’ve been thinking about for a while- the local steakhouse has a pair on the wall that I’ve been looking at for years and have really wanted to replicate in my painting :clint:

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Nebalebadingdong posted:

buncha 6mm stuff

battlemechs!



medina shops from the lazy forger


gas tank from the lazy forger


scum tanks from iliada games


sand cat from iliada games


ram wagon from the lazy forger


Hate all of it, especially that last one where the base of the model lines up with the road

Cool as heck as ever!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Seriously, Nebalebadingdong, stage a fake battle using everything you’ve painted, which at this point must be a small city. I want to see it all together (with carefully included penny).

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I opened and promptly knocked over my new pot of Contrast Medium. I’m going to have to go back to using the pot base I 3D printed forever ago. I am so mad at myself.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Making your own wet pallet is a painter rite of passage, like making your own lightsaber, imo

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

mellonbread posted:


Painting faces is the hardest part. The basic principles (wash to fill in the nooks and crannies, paint to highlight the important parts) are simple but getting the tiny details right is easier said than done. Placing a pupil in a single eyeball takes me multiple tries and it's going to take a lot more before I can do it consistently.

The “paint entire eye black, then dot white on both sides” method is a tried and true way of getting acceptable eyes!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I figured they were sci fi faeires or something

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I don’t like gimmicky GW stuff but their handles rock

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Yeah that rules great job!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Yep, rocks!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012




Wip of my happy Plague Marine Kill Team leader. I loved this Blightlord model and decided that since, according to a Reddit post, these guys effectively have 18+ wounds, a Terminator model would be appropriate. The old school Berserker plasma pistol was a breeze to fit on. I’ll probably count the chaincleaver as a powerfist or poweraxe, depending on who I’m facing.

I hope he’s actually somewhat effective. I also have a bolter leader who looks like he’d be more effective on paper.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Cease to Hope posted:

This rules but also:



As for Kill Team advice, usually the best place to ask for KT advice is the spec games thread but I can help you out here with kitbashing work.

There is an actual Death Guard team, but it sucks in a way that is pretty unfun. They're all super slow, so either your team is half useless poxwalker zombies or else tragically easy to outmaneuver and isolate. They get two gimmicks and one of them is an aura that half the teams in the game can ignore. You'd think super-tough guys who all get a special fighting knife would all be decent in melee but no, they're punching bags because of 3A on basically everyone. I really do not recommend playing Actual Death Guard from the Kill Team Compendium, and instead play Legionaries.

If you don't take this advice, your champion's armament is fine. There isn't actually an option for any kind of chain weapon or power weapon for them but since you're always taking a power fist anyway, it's nbd. (The plague sword is inexplicably worse than a power sword.) He can take a bolter but you'll get a ton of use out of the plasma except against the most passive, defensive teams.

For the rest of a bad DG team, you always want a plasma gunner and an icon bearer. Then you have some choices. Either eight poxwalkers, or three more marines. Two of those marines are boring bolter/knife guys. The third is either a melee guy (double knife with mephitic toxin, any other melee guy is mediocre) or a blight launcher guy.

You're not stuck with Death Guard, though. You do have options.

Legionaries are generic CSM. However, your guys do have marks of chaos, and all-Nurgle is pretty much the only mono-mark you'd ever want to take. It doesn't even come with any downsides. They aren't quite as tough as actual DG, but on the flip side they move normally and are considerably more dangerous and versatile.

For the leader, there are three options but the most versatile and most thematic one is a Chosen, who heals after a melee where he got a crit hit. He wants a plasma pistol and a "demon blade" which can just be whatever you want. The other leader option, an AC, wants a plasma pistol and a power weapon or fist but his whole gimmick is going fast so probably not what you're looking for anyway.

The rest of the team is five of these, in generally deceasing order of importance:
  • Plasma gun gunner
  • Anointed, who is just a mutant claw guy with a bolt pistol that isn't very important
  • Shrivetalon, who has two knives and is a generally defensive and intimidating melee guy. Any kind of dual-wielded small claws or sharp gauntlets or whatever would work.
  • Balefire Acolyte, a psyker with a scary knife.
  • Heavy gunner with a chaincannon. Anything that looks like it can lay down a hail of fire at long range but doesn't look like a heavy bolter could work.
  • Butcher, who has a two-handed chain axe but really any oversize or two-handed weapon would do
  • Icon Bearer. I usually give this guy a bolter because Malefic Blade means a chainsword redundant, but you could pick chainsword/BP if you want.
  • Heavy gunner with missile launcher. Niche tech piece you could safely leave at home.

Hopefully this helps you with building up a team! The guy you did was great and deserves to be on the table I think.

This is great- I’ve heard that the 4” movement and 2” dash is pretty restricting, but I’m hoping that Bell Boy will help a few move fast while my Launcher (represented by the Space Marine Heroes Plague Caster cool due to the model being super cool), Plasma, and additional bolter lay down some fire.

I had not realized that they are only 3 attacks- Reddit seems to suggest that the Launcher is the way to go over Knifey, but the melee heavy Novitiates my wife is planning make me wonder if he might be something to consider.

If things go real bad after a few games then I think I’ll ponder switching things up and going Legionary.

Just out of curiosity, what is the aura that half the teams can ignore?

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Cease to Hope posted:

this plan will hit the shoals very quickly.

bell boy has to activate first to give the rest of your team the benefit. elite teams already suffer very badly from having predictable activation orders and badly giving up activation advantage (unless you take poxwalkers, which gotta emphasize, are literally shambling zombies). so this means if any of your (slow, few) marines are out of position and aren't your bellboy, they're going to need to waddle out of that bad position with no move boost.

head to head, an n" movement advantage is huge for basically any value of n. it means i can slot into a position where you have to retreat or get charged next turn but you can't do it back to me. even pin charges from chaff guys (usually a charge without them doing a follow-up fight action) mean your dudes have to waste most of a turn because most of them only have 3A. you are so, so vulnerable to bully or pin charges from pretty much any team in the game.

using the bell costs you one of your relatively scarce APL. this is not a big deal but it adds up. it's just another way it'll feel like you can't get to objectives fast enough, or kill fast enough, or get separated too easily, etc.

if you want a team that feels really nurgly, i recommend gellerpox. the hulks are extreme enough that they don't feel like a minor variation on a regular guy, and you get a bunch of individual nurglings and various insects to run around and get in trouble. it's a great balance of buzzing flies (literal or figurative), distracting the enemy just in time for a juggernaut to barrel through and run everyone over.

the aura everyone ignores is contagion. it's not half the teams in the game any more but it's still obnoxiously common to ignore injuries very cheaply, especially for marine teams. (for example, your entire team is immune to injuries.) most teams now have this as "that enemy operative is treated as being injured, regardless of any rules that say they cannot be injured" but DG don't.

ahahaha excellent. shame about the casting, though. warlord is usually pretty good.

a historical note to take or leave: dudes with spiked hair historically had bleach-blonde hair (but not facial hair). they bleached and spiked their hair using limewater, same way as diy punks.

Ugh, yeah, this could end up not being one of my finer teams. I’ve read some reports on Reddit that suggest that their durability is really tough to overcome with some lucky dice rolls, hopefully that will work in my favour.

The models are so cool that they’ve been on my list for a long time, so regardless of performance, at least I’ll have enjoyed painting them!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Lol at the old paint tin hat

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Speaking of browns, I’ve adopted the Eavy brown leather recipe of Rhinox/ Black Shade/ Doombull/ Skrag and it is like magic. None of the color look like they should work together but look amazing when they dry.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

They look great!

My Plague Marine Killteam is progressing well, but I’m starting to understand the frustration of painting Chaos. Even in the later stages of the painting process I am STILL discovering tentacles and arrows that I overlooked.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Huh. I was wondering what was up, since their website still lists all their stores. But on closer inspection, the link to each stores info, other than Hamilton, goes to a 404 page. Looks like mismanagement and lovely stores practices, after a few cursory searches. Kind of a shame, since they had a lot of history, and were kind of the art store in Canada for a while there.

Luckily we've got Deserres out west here too, as well as Opus Art Supplies.

I used them a lot for ordering supplies for my art classes but noticed this year a lot of stuff was out of stock, so I had to look elsewhere

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Trying out Imgbb, let’s see if this works:

WIP Plague Marines





Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Count Thrashula posted:

The skin/tentacle/stuff looks absolutely gross, bravo

Thanks- still a work in process, and has been evolving along the way. The mushrooms are just a Magos Purple dominant mix of the skin shade, I’m hoping I can pull them off in the end.

Horns, two or three pinwashes, highlights and scratching, and bases, then I’m done.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Brush is the way- let us know if you have questions!

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Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Loving the primary colors on that Ork! My go-to with Ork clothing is to add off whites to your base. Theoretically the clothes get sun bleached and worn from extensive use, they should look old. It makes my reds into pinks, however, so ymmv (check out my boyz in my thread posts for examples).

Edit: oh right, new thread. I’ll try to get some shots of my Greenskinz versus Plage Marines once I get them done!


This is a really nice pile of garbage, sincerely

Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 22:30 on May 13, 2024

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