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Grizzled Patriarch posted:What kind of PSI are you guys using for your airbrush when you're trying to apply glazes with it? Any time I get stuff down to a super thin consistency it seems like I'm always wrestling with it either coming out way too wet or drying too fast, and I'm having a hell of a time getting it just right. Using a Badger Patriot with a single-tank compressor if that matters. What do you mean by drying too fast? Are you getting dry tip? If it's just dry tip, add a little bit of flow improver to your glaze. Generally as the paint gets thinner you want to lower our pressure and reduce your distance from the painting surface. Your goal is for the paint to dry as soon as it touches the surface or you'll get pooling and spider webbing.
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Mar 3, 2024 06:51
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 08:42 |
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Yeah, I think it's dry tip. My other issue is that I'm trying to glaze a small part of the mini, and I want it to blend in with the tones around it, so I can't tape it off or get too far away or I end up covering more area than I want to. Ideally I want to be able to get pretty close to keep it tight without it pooling, but maybe that's just not possible with it thinned down to a glaze? It's a new thread and I really should do an effort post on airbrushing, but that would take... effort. Your goal when Airbrushing is for the paint to dry the moment it hits the painting surface. You do this by constantly balancing between the viscosity of your paint, the pressure of your air and the distance from the painting surface, when one changes the others have to change as well to compensate. You want to be very thin with very low pressure to get close. The closer you get to your surface, the lower your pressure needs to be to avoid splattering, and the lower your pressure the thinner your paint needs to be to get through the brush, but that also leads to splattering, so you need to experiment to find the right balance. Using thinner (reduces drying time) and flow improver (increases drying time) can help dial it in, but it's going to take experimentation to find the right combination. What I recommend is to get some glossy white index cards and then practice spraying lines on them of different widths;., experiment with differen't pressure settings, different distances from the painting surface and different viscosities of paint until you get a real good feel for where you need to be and then apply that technique to your models. Unfortunately there is no "use X PSI at Y distance with X Paint" settings for this, it's all about learning to use your specific unique brush, paint and application combo.
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Mar 3, 2024 18:41
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SuperKlaus posted:Cool puke. Isopropyl Alcohol on a Q-tip maybe.
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Mar 15, 2024 06:41
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The Demilich posted:Anyone have any experience modifying the characteristics of Golden crackle medium? Even the thinnest application results in platelets that are just too large for my preferred uses. I had the exact same problem. i was looking to use it instead of the citadel paints on my ork bases, the best I could get was some light cracks (not even as much as you got) and nothing like what I needed. I gave up and bought more of the Citadel Texture Paints.
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Mar 26, 2024 02:27
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Super Waffle posted:Anyone have tops using washes on large flat areas? Been painting a rhino for my Iron Warriors and my usual recipe of prime black -> AP Gunmetal spray -> Nuln Oil is just not working. The Nuln just pools all weirdly and the panels just look messy and splotchy and dirty in a not good way. Long ago I brush painted some Rhinos. The way I did it was using a big (like 1/2 inch) wide flat brush to apply the base coat, then applied Badab black wash (this was before nulin oil) and then with the same big flat brush I dry brushed the base color over the entire model multiple times. The dry brush eliminated all the pooling and evened out the initial splotchyness without being too thick. It was time consuming, but the results were pretty ok.
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Mar 27, 2024 14:26
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Are there any finecast in your collection? As I recall when finecast was a thing, folks were complaining about them deforming in hot car interiors.
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Mar 27, 2024 20:59
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Spanish Manlove posted:It's slightly less expensive than buying the two good brushes there (the sable ones) but realistically you can do a lot of work with just the #3 brush of theirs and cut out the really tiny one. And yeah the big cheap brushes can be bought in bulk at an art store, Michaels or hobby lobby. Look at brushes meant for classrooms as they come in a box of 100 for like $10 and they're meant to be destroyed by kids using them for swordfights. Yeah buying a box of 100 "Scholastic" brushes from Dick Blick was such a good move. I use them for all kinds of stuff, applying glue, bulk washes, texture paints, you can even cut them short and use them for dry brushing and stippling.
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Apr 8, 2024 15:06
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Lostconfused posted:You can watch all the tutorial videos you want, but the important part is to get painting. There's no right or wrong way to paint and you need to figure out what works for you by experimenting and trying different things. Yeah this right here. You gotta paint a bunch of bad minis before you can get decent. There is no way to avoid that. Nobody should start with Oil paints. There is a reason they're considered an advanced technique, working with them is a pain in the rear end, you need proper ventilation, you need to deal with long drying times, hash chemicals and cleanup. We use acrylics because they are easy to get started, dry quickly, cleanup with water and are mostly non-toxic. Use them to learn to paint, then when you reach as far as you can using just acrylics, try other medium.
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Apr 18, 2024 11:07
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Al-Saqr posted:How much ventilation do i need in my room to make it safe to set up an airbrushing station? if you're just doing acrylics and using a airbrush booth, then just venting the exhaust out a window should be sufficient.
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Apr 19, 2024 10:35
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Kylaer posted:I don't have any ventilation but I wear an industrial respirator with p100 filters when I airbrush. Even if you don't need to worry about your lungs. Everything in you painting space is going to eventually accumulate a fine coating of paint dust. So if you have a safe space, or you're only painting occasionally that's ok, but otherwise get some form of ventilation.
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Apr 19, 2024 15:36
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Z the IVth posted:Resin printed figures with 2mm ankles and feet laugh at your "pinning" When I print my guard infantry, I add a pin in the form of a 1mm wide cylinder to the bottom of their feet in blender, then drill a 1mm hold in my plastic bases. No need to drill into the resin and it securely holds.
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May 10, 2024 21:32
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 08:42 |
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Z the IVth posted:Unfortunately I get ppl to print for me so it's always a bit of an imposition to get them to modify the stls. Yeah makes me miss minis with tabs to fit into slotta bases.
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May 10, 2024 22:49
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