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Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
So, I painted this Gluttony, the Bubonic One resin print, from Dark Gods - and I don't know why, but I don't like how it turned out. The oil wash did a lot to punch in some nice shadows, especially on the back, but it feels a bit like visual mush. (I have to 3D print a backdrop while I'm thinking about it, because the paints in the background aren't doing the picture any favors either.) I don't know what would make it look better. Any ideas?


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Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
Okay, so I'm trying to figure out where I went wrong here.

This is the effect that I'm trying to replicate - there's obvious a lot of purple and red undercoating here, with a layer of Pallid Wych Flesh or something similar over the top:



So I took Azathoth out of the Cthulhu Wars package, primed and slapchopped him:



Used Volupus Pink for the flesh and Snakebite Leather for contrast paints; and this looks kinda okay:



Then a drybrush, and this is where I hit the wall: I thought that I could emulate the fuzzy texture on the inspiration models with drybrushing and got this instead:



Which does not look good. How can I emulate the look of the inspiration miniatures?

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013


I'm stumped as to how the original artist painted these. There's obviously layers of red and purple in there, possibly contrast paint washes, but I'm stumped as to how he got the texture the way that he did. I thought initially that it was drybrushing, but I wasn't able to replicate it by using a makeup brush and very little paint. Anybody else have an idea of how these were painted?

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013

quote:

I'd guess it's that Artis Opus style stippling.

quote:

Reminds me of my Tyranids except you know, they're better

I think that I have my answer. Thanks for the help! Now I just have to chop up some brushes for stippling work.

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
Let's see if I can get this right: Some Ulthwe Falcons I just finished last night:

Cannibal Smiley fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Mar 19, 2024

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
Well, the theory is there, but I shouldn't have bought boar-hair stenciling brushes. They had some plastic ones that look a lot more forgiving.


Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
Some Ulthwe Eldar Falcons. Next up are about five Wave Serpents that I'm rehabilitating.

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
A test with the Newsh wash.

Urien Rakarth base, Pallid Wych Flesh drybrush:


Newsh + Evil Suns Scarlet; I think that I used too much on the Newsh coat. I tried painting a miniature one time with red gouache paint, and it looked similar to the effect that I'm getting here. I don't think that gouache and Newsh have much in common, but I'm saying that they look similar here.


After sponging off the Newsh, another Urien Rakarth drybrush:


And a final drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh:



I wonder if it would look better with a gloss varnish, to get that wet skin look.

I'm still going to have to practice using Newsh to get the result I want. The next experiment will be doing brown ink in Newsh over a Frostgrave miniature for your standard Burnt Sienna oil wash look.

Cannibal Smiley fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Mar 23, 2024

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
Okay, something interesting: The Ulthwe Falcons that I was doing looked good, but the black parts read as a single undifferentiated black mass. I bought a medium-gray Prismacolor pencil from Michaels and ran it gently along the edges of panels, and got a pretty good result. (You're also seeing where I tried to do it, clumsily, with paint.)




When I tried to do it again on a Falcon that hadn't been sealed - with Vallejo Mecha Matte Varnish - it didn't look nearly as good. It seems that the varnish gives the pencil some tooth, something to cling to, and lets me do much smaller lines. Weird.

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013

My Spirit Otter posted:

did you airbrush the windows or hand paint them? if the former, great job. if the latter, i hate you as much as the guy who paints the penny minis.
'

Airbrush with Vallejo Game Air - Ultramarine Blue and Electric Blue. I got the idea off somebody else's paint job on a Falcon, but his had three colors to my two.

Thanks for all of the kind compliments, all!

Cannibal Smiley fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Mar 26, 2024

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013
Okay, I'm throwing myself on the mercy of the court here: I have tried multiple brushes and have had the same result every time - the brush holds its point until it hits the miniature, after which it starts fraying, with a number of flyaway hairs springing free of the point and making a mockery of my attempts to paint with it. Winsor-Newton Series 7 do it, Da Vinci brushes do it.

I'm wondering if the problem is that I'm getting too big a brush. I buy Size 2 brushes because you can switch back and forth between covering a lot of ground and suddenly narrowing it down to a fine point depending on how you use the brush, but I'm thinking that maybe the reason why I'm getting so much brush splintering is because I'm only getting paint on the last 20% of the brush and the rest of the brush is just wet. When I go home tonight I'm going to try some brush soap on it, maybe some hair conditioner, but I'm not sure if that's going to make much of a difference. Has anybody else had problems with this kind of thing?

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Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013

Radiation Cow posted:

A few questions:

1) Are you buying the brushes from an in-person retailer, where you can test the brush before buying it? Sable brushes, unfortunately, seem to have pretty serious QC issues across all brands, and you may have just been very (very) unlucky. I also suspect that warehouse storage and shipping does a number on brushes, especially with regards to the glue in the ferrule, which can then cause otherwise great brushes to split and fray.

I'm buying them online, but not from Amazon. I'm beginning to think that it's just the nature of the beast to have fraying tips on these brushes, but it's frustrating when I'm paying $20+ and having to reshape the brush all the time. I do use the brush to transfer paint from the pot to the palette, but I'm careful not to let it get into the ferrule where it can dry and cause splintering.

quote:

2) Are you reshaping the brush after loading it with paint? Either on a paper towel or your thumb. I don't think only having paint on the last 20% would be an issue - that actually sounds ideal in terms of control, especially if the rest of the brush remains wet.

Yeah - I have a cutting mat that I use to form the brush into a point before I paint.

quote:

3) How much pressure do you apply while painting? Do you noticeably see the brush tip distort when you touch it to the model?

A fair amount of pressure, but not excessive, I don't think.

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4) Does the fraying get worse when the brush is dry?

Yeah, it does. I have some Windsor and Newton brushes that look like little bushes, but they kind of form into a point when they're wet.

quote:

I've had massive issues with online-ordered Raphael 4804s, and it definitely seems that ordering online is a much riskier prospect than going into a retailer and testing the brush yourself. In general, if this is happening to brand new brushes, the chances are that it's a manufacturing/storage issue, and not how you use them.

I'm thinking that I may have to roll the dice again on Dick Blick, or maybe see if there's an art store in Houston that sells the appropriate brush. Thanks for your help! :)

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