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Color scheme thoughts: I'm getting back into painting by just doing a single kill team of Marines. I've committed to base colors for now, but I'm thinking on weapons in particular and bouncing between a few thoughts. Already established, roughly:
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Apr 15, 2024 14:36
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My Spirit Otter posted:i like that idea, but i think that old yellowed bone colour would stand out too much. I was wondering. What's the brand?
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Apr 19, 2024 20:36
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What do people use for applying texture pastes to bases? In the past the most texture basing I've done has been sand/dirt, where it was easy enough to just use a popsicle stick to smooth some slight ripples across the base and call it good. I'm working on a kill team using Vallejo Thick Mud and a blend of products for snow, and the popsicle stick... is not cutting it for getting natural looking mud. Even less so for getting snow to look right. Do you just use an large, flat synthetic brush or something to apply it? I'm not sure what the intended method is.
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Apr 22, 2024 18:39
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Quick advice check. I started painting my Legionary kill team last night, for my own chapter, not anything official. Only got as far as basecoating most of the armor and the head, but put it up for some friends to see how it was looking: ... Got several bouts of feedback of "nice space wolf" or otherwise deciding it was definitely a space wolf model. Which was not the intent at all. (It's Thousand Sons blue, for that matter, making it funnier.) I still have to do the fur, but I've realize that doing the standard brown/tan fur is going to just read even more heavily as Space Wolf and it's going to reinforce that notion. I'm considering white (or off-white) fur, but is that going to look bad in this case? On other models I have trim that'll be bronze and other places to make it more visibly non-SW, but on this model the only place for that is on the backpack that I barely started on before running out of time. (For that matter, are people just wrong that it looks like a space wolf? SW models are usually a lot paler, but that's examination and not first reaction...)
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Apr 24, 2024 21:44
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Muir posted:I mean, removing the normal Imperial symbols and adding fur is pretty Space Wolf. Alternative Space Wolf paint schemes tend toward the plain gray (like the only successor chapter, the Wolfspear, or like Horus Heresy era Space Wolves), but blue isn't that far off. It's not like it's green or red or something. If it were all white or white/red I'd probably get White Scars vibes. White Scars successors here, actually  I'm sticking with the blue and hoping I can distinguish it enough that people don't just assume it's SW. Only a couple models (3 out of 11) have the fur, so hopefully once it's a complete team it'll have less of an effect.
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Apr 24, 2024 22:17
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Muir posted:Yeah, the orange hair is definitely not helping you avoid Space Wolves/viking vibes. Figured it's not. I did the red/orange hair on a model like, 5 years ago and wanted to see if I still remembered how to do it right. Maybe I'll just go over it since I haven't gotten to any of the complex parts yet and it's still thin. Eej posted:Also topknots (and dark hair) Guess I'll see what I can manage.
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Apr 24, 2024 22:27
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  Possible improvement. Spanish Manlove posted:Just make sure you don't have pairs of lightning bolts, which an annoying amount of space wolves will have We sure do have a lot of SW players locally who are very very into Nordic runes for totally innocent reasons. Part of why I was hoping to not totally read as SW, honestly.
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Apr 25, 2024 00:34
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Last of the rapid fire posts, I think I'm calling her good and iterating on the next model. Skin is giving me trouble so hopefully better on the next pass.   Cease to Hope posted:brainstorming: I thought about a fox pelt for this one - might do that on the melta gunner instead. Like these ideas overall. I may end up trying a barcode on the next model... I'll leave this one unvarnished for the moment in case I like it and come back. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Apr 25, 2024 |
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Apr 25, 2024 01:49
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My hands and elbows hurt but I hammered out one of the kill team leaders in a bit over one session (couple coats of the blue last night, rest of the blue and everything else today).    I liked Cease's barcode idea and applied it as a shoulder marking here, and as a chest marking on the previous model since her shoulders are covered. Went fairly light with the markings on this one, but still thinking on how to iterate on them. Not sealed yet either, so I can go back if needed. I think this guy is more distinct from the wolfy heritage, even if he does have a stereotypically wolfy head. And yes, I see the mold lines, which I didn't see until after it was primed and ready.
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Apr 26, 2024 00:27
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 "Huh, it's all right angles and straight lines. It can't be that bad." 20 minutes later...  There was an attempt. The paint is already thick enough on this shoulder that I'm just leaving it. I'm not stripping the whole guy for lopsided freehand. If my brush would stop fraying on me every 5 seconds that would really help. Also if Thousand Sons Blue was not the most transparent "base" paint GW offers.
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Apr 28, 2024 16:54
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Flipswitch posted:For poo poo like this I'd highly recommend buying or making a stencil unless you're one of those freehand wizard lunatics. I was only doing it once, so probably not worth a stencil in this case. I am considering one for hazard stripes though, when I go back to my IW. Plus, in this case, it basically went "if I don't try it, I'll never know if it's reasonable to freehand; if I do try it and it goes badly, at least it's still more painted than most of my opponents". Waiting on the last bits of highlights to cure before I varnish him and get him on a base.  e2: oh gently caress there's a tiny spill of bronze I need to fix too e: Lovely Joe Stalin posted:If you are going to freehand a pattern like that. Try doing all of the straight lins first, so it's a grid. Then go back and paint in the break points afterwards.
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Apr 28, 2024 20:39
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Cannibal Smiley posted:Okay, I'm throwing myself on the mercy of the court here: I have tried multiple brushes and have had the same result every time - the brush holds its point until it hits the miniature, after which it starts fraying, with a number of flyaway hairs springing free of the point and making a mockery of my attempts to paint with it. Winsor-Newton Series 7 do it, Da Vinci brushes do it. My synthetic brush for metallics from Monument holds a point better than my nice sable brushes, for Christ's sake I'd get new sable brushes from another brand if there were any I could even trust to be good at this point.
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Apr 30, 2024 17:44
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  5/6 painted for this weekend. I'm not going to have time to do their snow effects before the learning game, probably, but that's okay. Hopefully across 3 days I can manage to get one more guy done. If I'm lucky, two so I have leader options.
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May 1, 2024 13:10
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SkyeAuroline posted:
And managed to hammer out number six in a couple hours.  I'm not painting any more of these legionaries until I find a replacement for Thousand Sons Blue. This is one of the worst paints I have ever had the misfortune of working with, and it's easily half the time it takes me to paint these guys on its own from having to do five or more layers just to get coverage. But hey, it's a team that's ready to go!
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May 2, 2024 03:37
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Muir posted:Two Thin Coats paints are made to be matches for GW paints and are considered excellent. Looks like Sentient Turquoise is the Thousand Sons Blue equivalent. One of my local stores started carrying a limited range of TTC, so guess I'll be checking if they have that in stock today. Thanks. I've been burnt on these color comparison charts enough I don't really trust them, but I need to find a better option or I'm going to go insane doing the second half of the team. May take a break and work on Kommandos once their sprue arrives today. Just for something with no blue on it. e: unfortunately it looks like Sentient Turquoise doesn't exist in the US yet. On to something else I guess? SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 23:39 on May 2, 2024 |
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May 2, 2024 15:09
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Paint stripping question: I dug out an old model from my Dark Eldar that I kept when I sold the rest, and decided to get around to painting it. The problem is, this model is from when gesso priming was still all the rage... and a lot of the gesso had worn off in storage, but not all of it. I've stripped about 90% of it with simple green, a toothbrush, and a toothpick, but there's still stubborn gesso on there that I can't get out, especially in recesses. If I prime over this with rattle can primer, am I likely to have primer peel off later since it's adhering to the weakened gesso instead of the plastic? Or is it going to form an effective enough "shell" that it should hold fine over the small areas where there's still gesso? This is going to be a game piece, so handling is definitely in the cards. The mini in question (I was foolish enough to use "bare plastic grey" gesso, so it's only really visible on the resin base, which is complicating things further):  e: Went ahead and primed it, so we'll see how it turns out. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 16:11 on May 3, 2024 |
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May 3, 2024 12:59
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  Test model for a prospective Dark Eldar kill team. Highlights are rough due to hand tremors on the second painting day; nothing to be done about that, just my health. Already mentioned where the model came from; in hindsight I should have cleaned it up again before priming, because there were mold lines and a single sprue bit I didn't notice until after I started painting, that are very visible irl. For me in 2017, great conversion; in 2024, a little rough. Still need to do the base rims. Not sure if I'll go ahead with the full team or wait a while.
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May 4, 2024 18:44
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MadDogMike posted:Trying to order the Vallejo Game Color paints (got the basic sets, but annoyingly they don't seem to have come with any good shade/basecoat/highlight sets) but having issues pulling up actual shops to order it from instead of details, reviews, etc. about it. Any good places to order it online in the US? I always used Miniature Market in the past, but it's been a few years since I put an order in there and I don't know if there's any issues with them nowadays.
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May 4, 2024 23:06
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 Not done yet by any means (just did basecoats and washes so far, still have to clean up after the wash and do highlights) but I think I've landed on a scheme for my vet guard kill team. At least for the guys themselves, the base is much harder to get right. Now to figure out how to highlight Hull Red in a way I can reproduce consistently across 20 models that aren't batch painted together...
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May 8, 2024 12:23
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Ominous Jazz posted:is greenstuff naturally sticky or do you have to glue As the main cause of my frequent failures with using it: oh yes, it's sticky.
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May 10, 2024 19:29
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Combination sanity check and advice request. I have a set of Kommandos built that I need to get painted eventually for Kill Team. I don't especially want to do the same "bright color everything" as everyone else, and while thinking about LOTR-esque grey orks I thought about another greyscale scheme - Sin City style "monochrome except for splashes of color". Probably red in this case, because I also had Madworld on the mind. I've primed the grot and squig as test models, since I care about them a lot less than the main boyz/nob and they're less painful if I have to strip a failed paintjob. It's almost certainly going to have to wait until my replacement brushes arrive, so I have a while to figure out the exact approach and techniques. On to the questions:
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May 13, 2024 15:34
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Lumpy posted:Paint the whole thing in Black & White* and glaze the color on later in the spots you want it. I ended up painting the red normally, and I think it turned out okay as an experiment.    Happy enough with him to move on to the rest of the team; I set aside the squig to try a drybrush approach instead, but I really like how this worked out.
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May 13, 2024 23:54
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Frog Act posted:This guy kicks rear end, the goggles in particular are super impressive, love the effect. Grot models are the best and the more distinctive the better Thanks. Funny thing is, the goggle effect is actually a blending mistake I couldn't fix properly - I was hoping for a smooth gradient and... didn't quite achieve it. Paint was either thick enough to stay in discrete bands or thin enough that it just wicked away and pooled at the edges of the lens. Settled for the three bands and figured, it's a what, 15mm tall figure? That's going to be seen from 4-5 feet away under less than ideal lighting for 90% of its existence? The bands are fine. You don't see it at arm's length near as much. Squig is primed, rest I have to wait for it to drop below 90% humidity before I can get them moving. If it doesn't drop in the next day or two, it'll just be guardsmen and Marines instead.
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May 14, 2024 15:43
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