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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

stabbington posted:

If you run out of paints, you die. Make sure you keep buying them.

I think we have a new thread title.

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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

GreenBuckanneer posted:

any suggestions for oil tube storage? I'd like something better than just throwing them in a drawer


Jonny Nox posted:

Box in your closet

I keep mine in a box on a shelf.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Ominous Jazz posted:

You can just do it now nobody will tell on you

I will.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Nessus posted:

The agony! The shame! And I guess that's true. I suppose the inside of the barrels wouldn't be primed, but I can either give them one more hit or just not give a poo poo

They will be in shadow all the time, so "not give a poo poo" is the option I'd pick.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Furism posted:

More contrast for more oomph, basically. Push it deeper and/or lighter in smaller and smaller surfaces until you're happy with the oomphness.

Agreed. Something that helps me is to take my picture and make it black & white. My eyes often confuse saturation difference as value difference, so going to black & white shows me that my whole value range, which I thought was wide, is all in the 40-60% zone.

Also remember that contrast comes in many forms: hue, saturation, value, texture, etc. MOAR CONTRAST!!!

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
Just give it a couple weeks and you can be behind by 5k posts in this one too!

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Professor Shark posted:

Bad painting experiences: I’m doing up my Death Guard KT and despite my best efforts with my Krylon Camouflage Sand (heating a d shaking the hell out of), my results were terrible. I tried to make up for it with a quick spray of grey with a can I thought I had unstuck, but that wasn’t great either.

I’m on light drybrush coat 4 of Screaming Skull and while mostly fine, there are still areas where the grey can be seen :11tea::bang:

A good airbrush setup costs about 15 rattle cans.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
Counter-counterpoint: I love priming with my airbrush.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

AndyElusive posted:

Oh poo poo. Did I just paint Mike Tyson?!



I love him.

Just add he face tattoos and you nailed it.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
I'm going to claim that I helped with that mini.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Fashionable Jorts posted:

Anyone got a recommendation for low-odor spray primer? I've been 3d printing a ton of stuff, but since it's been -30 outside a lot, I cant spray outside.

I think your options are "brush on" or "buy an airbrush". Hopefully I'm wrong, but I don't think there's a non-nasty aerosol propellant.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
I have mine laying on the ground on a carpet sample.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
Gonna go out on a limb and say that's a nice thing.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Cannibal Smiley posted:

I think that I have my answer. Thanks for the help! Now I just have to chop up some brushes for stippling work.

Go to the dollar store and get some small makeup brushes.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Bark! A Vagrant posted:

I'm starting my first attempt at really strong OSL and I'd like to get a more exact idea of where the light is hitting than eyeballing it. Does anybody know of any easy-ish way to do that with software? Or have general advice? My thought if software doesn't exist was to use a bunch of straightened tiny paperclips and sticky tack to physically map out the edges of the light and take a few reference pictures.

Load the STL into blender and put a light at the lightsource. But honestly, just eyeball it. It's art, not science! And your eyeballs are actually really good at it anyway if you trust them.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
I was at Adepticon and took a class from Marco Frisoni, and wound up hanging out with him a couple times after. What an absolutely wonderful, wonderful person, and absolutely phenominnal teacher. Turns out he's pretty good at painting too.


I also entered some stuff in Resin Beast, and got a top 10 in small figure, and best in category for diorama.... I'm quite shocked and happy.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Lumpy fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Mar 25, 2024

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Lovely Joe Stalin posted:

At that level they are usually judging based on flaws. Presumably numbers two and three had more technical errors that the judges could see.

Plus they look different in person. I was there, and the photos don't do a lot of those pieces justice.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Beffer posted:


The slayer winner this year is a triumph of realising a unique concept by creating an illusion of a reflection in a pond. I would love to see it in person as I struggle to believe that the illusion holds all the way around the model. But people are saying it does.

Having seen it in person (albeit inside the case, so I couldn't see a 360º view) it looked "correct" from every angle I could view it at.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Ravus Ursus posted:

His Instagram has a video showing most of its angles.

It REALLY pops on the black background photos he took. He has a photo of it upside down that looks like it could have been submitted that way too.

Yeah, on black it goes from amazing to AMAAAAAAZZZZZINNNGGGGG

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Lovely Joe Stalin posted:

While better than nothing, you really want the material to be wood, because the idea is to let you balance moisture and paint load in the drybrush. If you use tissue/kitchen paper you take out all the moisture and your drybrushed paint will go on too dry resulting in chalky finish. If you use plastic you just take out paint but leave moisture in the brush. Textured wood will let you take out water until it feels right, and then add paint and take that off until you're depositing the right amount.

/me looks at all the scrap wood in my shop

Guys, I'm starting a bespoke texture palette business.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

tehsid posted:




Dusted off the cobwebs and had a crack at some Shatterpoint models tonight. I had a blast painting the slightly larger scale.

Nice! Shatterpoint is interesting, as they are in fact, a larger scale, but they have realistic proportions, so in some ways, parts of them are actually smaller than 28mm GW stuff.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Kylaer posted:

I'm going to make an order from Pro Acryl because their titanium white is so well regarded and nobody stocks it locally. Are there any other colors from their line that are must-haves?

If they sell it separately, the Payne's Grey from Vince's set and the Dark Jade from his set as well. In fact, just get the whole set because every paint in it is a banger.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
It's also very hydrophilic, so I have actually been keeping a double layer of parchment on part of my wet palette for those to live. But I'm a bad person who keeps them on there and tries using paints far past when I should, so grain of salt.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
They make two different titanium whites, one is a heavy body. That could explain it....

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
A nice natural bristle brush makes painting so much better and easier. It's night and day, and everyone should get one when they can.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
What's the secret to having primer actually stick to metal models? I scrubbed it down with soapy water, rinsed it, let it dry. Primed like I usually do, but if I touch it or look at it too hard, it comes off. Also, I hate metal models.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Geisladisk posted:

Their old line of normal acrylic paints was a dumpster fire, but their new fanatic line is apparently quite good.

For a little more than a year I painted everything with those paints, because my daughter wanted the Owlbear mini that came with their D&D set. I have Stockholm Syndrome so I think they are not _that_ bad: once you know how each individual bottle needs to be thinned, which individual bottle has which insane variation of opacity, etc. If you look at my chart (imagine I am pointing at a notebook full of crazy man notes) you'll see....

Starting year three, and I still use a lot of them because I can't bear to throw anything out.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
It took me less than a month to take pictures of my Adpeticon Resin Beast and The Worthy entries!





Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice
Posted in the Malifaux thread, and I think I posted some old pics of Euripides / Thoon back in the old thread, but too bad! Working on taking better pictures; trying to get good lighting and focus stacking like a non-idiot (which is hard because I'm an idiot)

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Winklebottom posted:

he scream at own rear end :patriot:

If this isn't the new thread title, we should all boycott.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Bark! A Vagrant posted:

WIP goblin. Debating whether to smooth out the blends on the cloak, or at least the hood, because I think the obvious brush marks end up having a weird sort of charm here. Though my brain might be tricking itself to avoid work.



I think the obvious brush marks have charm because they are giving us the visual noise that cloth brings, so smoothing would lose that. You could transition with more brush strokes / hatching to give a more graduated value & hue shift, but keep the charm. Because it is in fact charming.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

Lostconfused posted:

It also depends on what your spraying, for primer you want a lot of ventilation since you'll be spraying it everywhere at high pressure, while painting at much lower pressure and using a lot less paint wouldn't need as much.

Or you could spray everything at 18psi so it doesn't go everywhere.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
I finished up some Shatterpoint stuff:


Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Z the IVth posted:



Decided to give it a go because I can't stop myself.

1. Watercolour guides
2. Stroke one way
3. Stroke the other way
4. Clean up and make gross cuts
5. Make holes bigger
6. Make small cuts between the bands
7. Tidy up even more, highlight and clean off guides.

With practice it can probably be made even sharper but this is really a design that would be best done as a decal.

I made an even more complicated version of this pattern as a guitar headstock inlay for one I build ~6 years ago. I'll never make that mistake again.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

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College Slice

SkyeAuroline posted:

Combination sanity check and advice request. I have a set of Kommandos built that I need to get painted eventually for Kill Team. I don't especially want to do the same "bright color everything" as everyone else, and while thinking about LOTR-esque grey orks I thought about another greyscale scheme - Sin City style "monochrome except for splashes of color". Probably red in this case, because I also had Madworld on the mind. I've primed the grot and squig as test models, since I care about them a lot less than the main boyz/nob and they're less painful if I have to strip a failed paintjob. It's almost certainly going to have to wait until my replacement brushes arrive, so I have a while to figure out the exact approach and techniques.
On to the questions:
  • Is this even a good idea? I've seen others do it for other factions, and I've liked how it's turned out, but my taste in paintjobs is a bit askew and maybe it'll just look bad or unfinished to other people.
  • Is there anyone who's done a particularly good job of showing how to do this properly with a brush? There's plenty of advice for this with airbrushes, since it's similar to the zenithal highlighting that's all the rage right now, but I don't have an airbrush and have no intention of getting one. I've done some searching and found a few resources, just seeing if there's anyone I should prioritize listening to.
  • Anything I'm not thinking about for this that I really should be?
(This is running in parallel with the marine and vet guard teams I've posted about before, rotating between projects to keep my sanity. No expansion beyond this point until at least two of the three teams are completely done.)

Paint the whole thing in Black & White* and glaze the color on later in the spots you want it.

* Don't use black and white. Use a tinted grey (slightly warm or slightly cool, but I'd go warm since you are doing red)

Painting a few models in B&W is a great exercise regardless, as it makes you think in pure value, and being able to convey different materials and so on only in B&W will make the rest of your painting a heap better real fast. Prime black, work up the values slowly, and you will be a happy painter.

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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

chin up everything sucks posted:

Magnetize models obviously. How do you turn plastic magnetic?

Mix in iron filings into your primer, then....

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