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I'll help if you promise to bomb hills with us regularly! If you already have a fab shop, you are already ahead of the curve. A lot of the drift trikes out there are using weak exhaust tubing without gussets. Feel free to shoot questions on PMs here or sin.cycles@gmail.com Caveat: I am more likely to offer more in depth help next week when I am not working like a madman. Also, I know this is the DIY thread, but here is a project that I've been working for awhile on at one of my jobs that I am rather proud of: 
ant mouth fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 02:11
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| # ? May 29, 2024 17:58 |
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Holy hell those look great  kinda feel embarrassed of postin my own small glass projects after that 
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Jul 24, 2012 18:54
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Traxxus posted:Is there an easy way to do that? Besides spray painting all your tools while hanging up that is. I would use masking tape, so that in case your loadout changes, you can tear off the tape and create a new outline easier. On the other hand, seeing a really old pegboard with the outlines of archaic tools that are no longer made still on it is pretty cool.
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Jul 24, 2012 20:40
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Just a Fish posted:Holy hell those look great You shouldn't feel embarassed, because that clock is beautiful.
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Jul 24, 2012 21:40
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Just a Fish posted:Holy hell those look great Very pretty. Autobot or Deceptikon?
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Jul 25, 2012 19:47
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That's gorgeous. Care to go into how you did it?
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Jul 25, 2012 23:14
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heh. It's a single piece, so basically take a piece of glass, draw a shape you want and cut and grind away the useless parts. Tiffany is where it will get trickier. From small things like these  up to those gorgeous old Church windows I've been actually for quite a while wishing for someone more talented writer to make a glass/tiffany thread.
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Jul 26, 2012 22:24
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Ok, that was really a super simplified answer and i felt like an rear end in a top hat after typing it. So here is an proper answer to your question Soopafly, but instead of a clock, i'll be showing how to make one of these: yes, my plane is lonely and it needs a buddy, but first lets take a look at what we need:  Safety goggles, mask, pen, glass knife and glass pliers  And a grinder, you can do some basic work without one, but it's mandatory for anything more complex(mine is sadly, very very dirty). Now that we got the tools out of the way, let's look at the glass itself  Some random pieces left from my clock project.  You can do this two ways, some people use a backlight setting, basically you put your paper with the desired design behind the glass and shine light through it and then drawn the shape on the glass, but i prefer to use the printer labels.  Then we'll cut it (sorry about my freakishly blue fingers, i was picking blueberries earlier this morning), important thing here is to keep the blade at right angle, 30-45 degrees, maintain the equal force the whole way and to always make full cuts from one side to other.  Then we'll need to separate the piecess, or bigger pieces you can just use your hands, but with smaller like these you need the pliers.  and then we grind, this is part where you need the goggless and the mask, since you really really don't to get any glass shards in to your eyes or lungs.  All done! Well almost, we'll still be needing couple of parts, but those can wait. So next time i'll be showing how to connect those pieces together and then we'll be one step closer to takeoff. Feel free to ask any questions about the things we've done so far
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Jul 31, 2012 20:03
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ant mouth, I sent you an email. I would love to tag along whenever you have time with the drift trykes!
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Jul 31, 2012 20:06
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ant mouth posted:They are incredibly user friendly because you are so low and have three wheels keeping you grounded. For the most part, unless you're going really fast into a tight corner, you are able to choose when you drift. It's not like you're spinning out on every turn. I've been thinking about Portland forever, just need to find a job there. When I visit to look around for housing and poo poo you better believe I'm gonna hit you up.
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Aug 1, 2012 01:08
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I am back from the dead and have responded to your email pardalis. Rizien, regardless of job, come ride hills. Content: We recently built our newest bike S1r:  Wednesday night I flew to St. Croix to deliver it to the client.  I got to bomb it on a road that no one has g-biked before. The first run went well. I crashed on the second one and got some serious road rash because I am idiot and didn't wear any gear. My elbow is only one of many places...  I also got to play on it with a bunch of the really great local riders. 
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Aug 1, 2012 05:20
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Thank goodness for this picture, because I was trying to figure out how to sit on that thing! I'm still not sure how the propulsion works. Are the pedals that seesaw looking thing?
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Aug 1, 2012 19:11
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Mister Sinewave posted:Thank goodness for this picture, because I was trying to figure out how to sit on that thing! Actually, you lay forward. Propulsion is gravity. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pkDxQK3bDc
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Aug 1, 2012 19:17
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Pretty sure that style of bike just gets speed from downhill inclines, like a soap box car. Also I'll definitely come ride hills regardless of a job, but I need to fly from Ohio to Oregon first  Edit; Do you guys ever smack your sternum against the top point where normal bike's handle bars come out of? That would have to hurt.
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Aug 1, 2012 19:18
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Bad Munki posted:Actually, you lay forward. Propulsion is gravity. Well, shows what I know! 
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Aug 1, 2012 21:13
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Commission time... This will be a four digit nixie clock. German Z560M Nixie tubes, wenge case, machined aluminum bezels for hours, minutes, and colon separator lamps. Will feature orange lit ring set and mode buttons on top, and perforated brass panel for back plate.  I wanted to hide as many seams as possible on this case. I cut each side at 45 degrees, and grain wrapped the wood from the face to the sides, and selected a section for the top that matched the grain of t he face. The clock is shown here on its back, facing up, as I begin to lay out where my holes to inset the tube bezels will seat. The pieces are held together with tape until I get the face laid out. I have till mid-October to finish this, which should be fine.
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Aug 3, 2012 18:32
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These are the projects I have completed so far at goldsmiths school. I'm working on a spoon next.
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Aug 4, 2012 11:47
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Rizien, On our big bikes, I haven't hit my sternum on the headset. Our 16" gravity bike has drat near gone through my chest though.
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Aug 4, 2012 18:30
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Question for the G-bike guy(s): Where do you get those wheels? They look like BMX to me, but they've got disc brakes!? Or am I just living under a rock when it comes to BMX stuff and it's a standard feature? Anyway mad props, the bikes are totally ridiculous. I think I'll need to cobble one together over winter.
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Aug 5, 2012 00:30
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We buy the components and have them built by our local bike shop. It is the most expensive component on our bikes because of this. We really need to buy a truing stand, sit down, and learn how to lace wheels ourselves. If you want the product numbers of the hub/rim/axle shoot a PM or send an email.
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Aug 5, 2012 02:12
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Bad Munki posted:I finally finished this thing, and I'm super stoked. Well, I guess not 100% done, I still need to put a 6' power strip along the back, but that's a 5-minute task once it gets here. C-C-C-COMBO  Just finished adding 16 feet of work bench to my garage. Recess for my miter saw gives me 4 feet of bed extension to the right and 12 feet to the left, with space for my air compressor and shop vac underneath. The vac has an 18' hose, so I'm going to string up a bar with a couple pulleys up at the ceiling and hang the hose from that so I can walk it down to either end of the bench without dragging it over everything, and leave it plugged into the saw for normal use. Also going to run lines along the back of the bench (and possibly elsewhere in the garage) for the compressor, and put in some extra outlets under the bench for the tools that will always be there.
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Aug 6, 2012 04:30
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I have recently begun working with wood. Here is my (almost complete) latest project.  I still need to add lids to the halves that fold out in order to keep cards from flopping around when it is closed. The ribbon is used to extract cards pulling up on one side. It's not quite ideal, but it looks alright, and was the easiest solution I could come up with for getting the cards out.
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Aug 7, 2012 07:52
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 Whew, drilled the main holes last night, taking extreme care to get them in the right spot. Starting with a 3/8 bit, then 7/8 forstner, then 1 3/8 forstner for the last cut. Next will be milling out the back face for sockets. Also shown here is one of the the lit orange momentary switches I'll use for set and mode.  Milled out slots for the socket ears, had to go a precise distance down so they'd be close enough to the tubes, and not rattle.  Sockets fit, align properly, etc. Test fitting some Z560M Tubes. I cut a little felt ring to put between the tube glass and the bezels, to keep from worrying about cracking the glass against the aluminum.  Once I am done with all the cuts on the face, I'll do my cuts to the top to inset my set and mode buttons, then it will be time to glue up the box. While that is curing, I'll mill out the bottom tray where the circuitboard goes, and start on the back.
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Aug 7, 2012 14:15
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unabaumer posted:I have recently begun working with wood. Here is my (almost complete) latest project. Just so (both of) you know, there's a woodworking thread too, definitely a good place to be. It's a little slow right now, but it can get fairly active during the right season.  http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334
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Aug 7, 2012 14:56
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Bad Munki posted:Just so (both of) you know, there's a woodworking thread too, definitely a good place to be. It's a little slow right now, but it can get fairly active during the right season. Hey thanks for the link...
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Aug 7, 2012 15:15
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how much are those switches now a days? In like 2003 they were drat near 100 bucks
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Aug 8, 2012 02:32
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JEEVES420 posted:how much are those switches now a days? In like 2003 they were drat near 100 bucks 10 or 12 bucks, cool for projects
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Aug 8, 2012 03:33
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nonentity posted:10 or 12 bucks, cool for projects Yeah they are. They used to be almost the holy grail of computer mods back in the day. Nice to see they are within reasonable price range now a days. Where do you get them from I think I might order a few for projects of my on
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Aug 8, 2012 03:56
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Built a new desk/bench. Closet door from Lowes for $23 legs from Ikea I've had forever.  Looked too plain just bare wood, and I know it would just get super dirty so I stained it black and topped it with some varithane made for "tough use"  Time to junk it up!
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Aug 8, 2012 20:22
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I don't think the fire marshall's gonna approve... 
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Aug 8, 2012 20:27
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Bad Munki posted:I don't think the fire marshall's gonna approve... That door is locked from both sides, my apartment is in a house that's been converted into 4 separate residences. I guess they were just too lazy to put drywall up over it.
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Aug 8, 2012 20:32
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Been working on a bamboo bike, just got the last bits of the frame epoxied.  and my super high-tech alignment jig 
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Aug 14, 2012 01:29
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That's pretty cool, are you going to cover up the exposed metal bits as well?
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Aug 14, 2012 01:50
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Yeah, with hemp twine. The epoxy is just to keep the bamboo in place so you can lash it together with the twine, before soaking the whole deal in fiberglass resin. The bits that stick out (dropouts, bearing cups, seat post) will get painted brown, probably.
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Aug 14, 2012 02:12
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Interesting, definitely interested in the progress and final product pics.
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Aug 14, 2012 02:19
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Nubile Hillock posted:Been working on a bamboo bike, just got the last bits of the frame epoxied. I demand a full writeup, along with what adhesive(s) you're using, and what web research resources you used. It sort of looks like you're using clear, 5 minute epoxy. Most everyone else I've seen has been using gorilla glue for their initial stick job (fills the gaps). I'm curious why you went with a different route? Keep us posted! I've been looking at building one for a while now. What/who/where was your source of bamboo?
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Aug 14, 2012 04:02
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I'll try to have the full list of resources assembled by tomorrow, but most of the research consisted of looking at bamboo bikes on GIS. There's a company that makes bamboo bikes for Africa (or maybe in Africa? Or both?) that was featured on Make, and it's where the design/idea comes from. The adhesives I'm using (and planning to use) - 2 part 5 minute epoxy - fiberglass resin (the kind sold in big-box automotive stores) As for where to source bamboo, that depends. I'm in Canada (prairies, no less) so my options were limited. Thankfully Windsor Plywood (my favourite specialty wood retailer) can order them in for ~8 bucks for 8 feet (any thickness). I've seen some build logs where guys go and cut down their own, though. I think it's a safe bet that any place that sells baltic birch plywood or fancy hardwoods can get it in for you. The biggest downside to getting bamboo like this is the brittleness. It dries up fairly quickly and I used up a LOT of my stock having parts (I'm looking at you, rear forks) split the bamboo. I suppose you could still use it if you fiberglassed it, but I didn't want to run the risk. I used 5 minute epoxy for a number of reasons. First and foremost, it was on the first build log I ever found. Second, I plain don't like gorilla glue. Although it fills the gaps, it's kind of brittle after it sets. I want something that won't let go even when applying all sorts of pressure/torsion on the parts during lashing. As long as you have a good point of contact between the parts, epoxy seems to hold things together really well. Last, I find working with epoxy much easier. At first it's really viscous so it gets into the cracks, but by the end of the set time it gets to be like a gel that you can fill in larger gaps with. autism ZX spectrum fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Aug 14, 2012 |
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Aug 14, 2012 05:01
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What size bamboo are you using? Looks like 3/4" on the back stays and 1 1/4" for the main triangle?
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Aug 15, 2012 05:28
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Thumposaurus posted:That door is locked from both sides, my apartment is in a house that's been converted into 4 separate residences. I guess they were just too lazy to put drywall up over it. The door-way would be a good basis for a bookshelf, especially right there with the desk/workspace. Or your flat-screen. I like doors for workbenches. They are fast, sturdy and you don't have to shave them down to make them flat. Oh, and you can usually get them through a door, too.
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Aug 16, 2012 01:16
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| # ? May 29, 2024 17:58 |
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Hadlock posted:What size bamboo are you using? Looks like 3/4" on the back stays and 1 1/4" for the main triangle? I think the back is 7/8" (the width kind of varies), but the main triangle is 1.5". They didn't have 3/4" but it would have been ideal. I've seen a frame on GIS that was all 1.5" though. Haven't had time to put together a master-post of all the links, been busy gearing up for a festival! Edit: Had some time, assembled all the resources I used. First off, if you haven't fiberglassed anything there's a really good tutorial on Silverfish. It's for longboards, but it still applies. You may need to register in order to see the pictures. http://www.silverfishlongboarding.com/forum/longboard-board-building-q-discussions/67988-fiberglassing-without-bag-101-a.html I used these pictures for a rough idea of what I wanted to do:    I like them 'cause they give a good idea of the different diameters of bamboo that can be used. Pretty sure the last one uses the same diameters as my build. (The blogspot domain is mine by the way so I'm not leeching.) This next link is a build album off imgur that I think I found on reddit (cue pedophilia jokes...) It's not super in-depth, but he uses 'fresh' bamboo and there are some REALLY good close-up pics of the lashing/fiberglassing. http://imgur.com/a/SbtRy#O9Ol8 Here's an instructable http://www.instructables.com/id/Bamboo-Bike-Frame/#step1 A project from Make: http://blog.makezine.com/2009/09/21/diy-bamboo-bike-frame/ And another, this one much cleaner: http://blog.makezine.com/2008/11/16/bamboo-bike-frame/ This is the Make index for 'bamboo bike': http://blog.makezine.com/search/?q=bamboo+bike The biggest issue I had with building the bike was getting the dropouts inside the bamboo. I ended up using a hack saw and basically cutting lengthwise down the 2" or so I had left of the old frame. The trick is that you want it to fit snug, but if it's just a little too tight the bamboo splits lengthwise down to the nearest knuckle and the piece ends up being garbage. This isn't a very hard project, especially if you've ever worked with bikes or fiberglass. If you haven't, it'd be a great introduction! autism ZX spectrum fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Aug 16, 2012 |
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Aug 16, 2012 01:57
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