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AncientTV posted:My other options are pretty lacking Well, here's one alternative option, buy this and trade it to him. http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/ctd/3311443874.html
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Oct 3, 2012 09:47
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AncientTV posted:My other options are pretty lacking Gotta pay for those sick flames and the below average mileage that you notice when you ride it.
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Oct 3, 2012 14:33
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I've shot an email to a guy selling a 2008 Honda Shadow 750 for $1990. He responded telling me the lower price was due to the bike sitting out in some place in Mazatlan Mexico and the salty air rusted the chrome. 3k miles. Assuming the bike is as he claims (runs like new), what could be done to repair the chrome? Would it need to be replaced?
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Oct 3, 2012 22:32
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Ultimately Yes. However you can get nasty chrome looking mostly new with a whole bunch of scrubbing and polishing. The only issue is once it's pitted and allowed for rust it will just keep coming back. Anything you'd use to seal it will be duller than the chrome and show (though not as bad as rust). Pics will determine if it's worth it or not. 3k gets you that bike in good shape, so if you need to swap 1k worth of chrome because it's totally rusted through it's not worth the effort.
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Oct 3, 2012 23:02
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Really I think it comes down to how much you value nice looking chrome and how bad it actually is. I prefer the blacked-out look to chrome so I'd just look for rust on structural stuff like the frame and plan on de-chroming - the fenders and panels are plastic so you don't need to worry about them rusting.
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Oct 3, 2012 23:06
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Since it'll be my first bike, chrome looking odd doesn't bother me too much. I've asked for some pictures to show more of the rust to see what can be done. My plan would be to drop it at a shop and see what they want to do with it along with the general check up. I'm a bit honed in on the bike. 2k is what I was hoping to pay for something like this and the shadow is what I want to start with. He claims the owner passed away but wouldn't give me much more, save that the title is ready. Though I'm inclined to wait until after my msf course at the end of this month. Edit: pics he sent me.. http://imgur.com/a/rgAEE Doesn't really hit me as terrible but im not experienced in these matters. Lothire fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Oct 4, 2012 |
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Oct 3, 2012 23:28
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Steel wool + chrome polish does wonders.
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Oct 4, 2012 00:59
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Lothire posted:Edit: pics he sent me.. Looks like a lot of rusty chrome but seems the frame is free of it. For 2k and a shitload of chrome polish and elbow grease it's a nice bike and a nice deal. It will never be mint, but at that price range you won't be finding anything mint.
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Oct 4, 2012 03:57
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Lothire posted:Since it'll be my first bike, chrome looking odd doesn't bother me too much. I've asked for some pictures to show more of the rust to see what can be done. My plan would be to drop it at a shop and see what they want to do with it along with the general check up. You can also use Oxalic acid to remove rust from chrome pretty easily, just make sure you dilute it properly. see this example with a BMX bike.
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Oct 4, 2012 04:04
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edit: nevermind, sold
AncientTV fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Oct 4, 2012 |
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Oct 4, 2012 19:57
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Thanks for the help fellas. I checked out the bike and it turned out he had another guy interested, so I passed on it. There was a problem with the rust on the back brake in that he couldn't get the bike to roll back and forth smoothly. It would eventually move but I dunno, it didn't feel right to me. Rather save up more money and just focus on my training right now. Really glad I have this forum/thread to fall on! Sometimes it feels a bit over my head getting into bikes.
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Oct 5, 2012 02:11
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It's always best to err on the side of caution, but for future reference, if it's just the brake disc that's rusty, that'll come off in the first instance of using the brake while riding. The discs are uncoated metal, so it's normal for them to rust over if left sitting for awhile. This isn't to say it can't progress past that point and quickly get more expensive, but simple disc rust is a-ok.
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Oct 5, 2012 03:34
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ReelBigLizard posted:I've got a different problem, there's loads of unusual or otherwise interesting and well priced bikes coming up right now and I'm flat broke. gently caress's sake, now there's a BMW G450F, a Buell X1 Lightning, a loving mint baby 'blade and a murdered-out, tuned-to-gently caress Vespa that looks like it could be an interesting way to die.
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Oct 5, 2012 13:08
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ReelBigLizard posted:a murdered-out, tuned-to-gently caress Vespa that looks like it could be an interesting way to die. Online someplace or just local? I wanna see this.
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Oct 5, 2012 13:15
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Local but I found it online: http://tig.gg/listing.php?lid=12773 Local vespa club is insane. I've done runs off the lights with a few of these guys and I tell you what those little things can launch if they're well ported. EDIT: WHAT THE gently caress 3K for a Blackbird, less than 10,000 miles on it, a bike that will do 175mph stock, with a 3 digit number plate (worth close to a grand these days, we're on 5 digits now). FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU EDIT2: I need 3 grand and fast - I can sell the numberplate to pay for this... ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Oct 5, 2012 |
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Oct 5, 2012 13:19
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ReelBigLizard posted:Local but I found it online: Don't you live on Jersey? Wouldn't you run out of road before getting to 300kph?  Although I suppose if you did manage it, you could probably just hydroplane to France like a snowmobile and keep on going!
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Oct 5, 2012 18:43
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ReelBigLizard posted:Local but I found it online: Man that's barely tuned at all, just a pipe! Looks drat good, though... but I am biased to black P/PX bodystyle scooters.
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Oct 5, 2012 19:43
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I'm back to tell you what bike I did buy.  Picked up a 2012 Honda CBR250r with ABS with 13 miles on it.....OFF CRAIGSLIST. A Navy guy bought it for his wife. He rode it home from the dealer and the next day he layered down his 600RR. His wife set an ultimatum: no more bikes. So, I got a practically new bike for ~20% less than from a dealer. Since his wife took away his bike privileges he went out and bought a new Silverado.  Crossposted this pic in the Ninja250 and gear thread. 
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Oct 7, 2012 02:41
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What's so special about a 3 digit number plate?
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Oct 7, 2012 03:57
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Stugazi posted:I'm back to tell you what bike I did buy. Awesome loving deal!
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Oct 7, 2012 04:25
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I've been riding a Triumph Speed Four since 2k10. Fun bike but I dislike the aggressive lean angle. I'm just about to sell it for what I payed for so I'm happy with how this bike has treated me (0 mechanical issues). With cycle-ergo, I've determined that a 2007-2010 Street Triple will have me riding in the position that I want to. I've all but determined this will be my next bike. Is there any reason I shouldn't purchase this bike? I haven't done too much research other than read reviews.
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Oct 9, 2012 11:24
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Linedance posted:Don't you live on Jersey? Wouldn't you run out of road before getting to 300kph? Worse, Guernsey. It's still for sale as of this post, I can only assume it's haunted or some poo poo. kenny powerzzz posted:What's so special about a 3 digit number plate? It makes people feel better about other things they have that are small. The other reason is that you can have a really small but still totally legal plate. I have a friend who has three 3 digit numbers, he's keeping them until he wants to re-do his kitchen... EDIT: I have to admit that if "690" came up I'd be tempted to drop some cash on whatever bike it was attached to. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Oct 9, 2012 |
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Oct 9, 2012 13:53
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JohnnyDangerously posted:I've been riding a Triumph Speed Four since 2k10. Fun bike but I dislike the aggressive lean angle. I'm just about to sell it for what I payed for so I'm happy with how this bike has treated me (0 mechanical issues). No. Buy it. I want one so bad  Awesome bikes.
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Oct 9, 2012 21:44
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kenny powerzzz posted:What's so special about a 3 digit number plate?
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Oct 10, 2012 09:20
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Hello chaps, I have been pointed your way from the People's Republic of Debate and Discussion to talk bikes. I've long harboured an urge to ride a motorbike, but until now have managed to get by wearing a leather jacket on the train. While I have held a (car) drivers licence for some nine years, next month I finally bite the bullet and I am doing a UK direct access scheme which will let me behind the wheel of basically any bike going. I don't currently own a bike, and I am looking to get pointed in the direction of a sensible starter bike for myself. Because of my age and the course the CC isn't a restriction but I'm not gonna want some mad sports thingy that goes like poo poo off a shovel, I'd go for comfort/efficiency any day over pure speed. I used to roll in H reg Vaxhall Nova so I'm not exactly one for style either. I'd probably be doing ~40 mile round trips once or twice a week on it, and maybe the odd shoot up to see my parents which is ~80 miles if that makes a difference. I can be fairly flexible on price, but I'm not made of money like. In my heart of hearts, I'd quite like a Triumph Bonneville but I have no idea if this would be the equivalent of sticking the 17 year old be behind the wheel of a Porche. Any advice on insurance, helmets, leathers etc would also be appreciated. I have literally never been on anything more high powered than a 2 wheeled push bike down a 10% gradient so am in many respects a total and utter novice.
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Oct 15, 2012 23:12
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As far as sensible starter bikes go, there are lots of options but you should probably ballpark your budget for us. A Bonneville won't instantly turn you into a bag of parts like a CXVBR11000RR-S will, but most of them around here at least are on the expensive side of sensible for a new rider.
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Oct 15, 2012 23:30
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Bozza posted:Hello chaps, I have been pointed your way from the People's Republic of Debate and Discussion to talk bikes. Bonnies are quite low-powered for their size, roughly equivalent to the bikes you'll do your Direct Access course on. That's still quite a lot of power for an absolute newbie but not unreasonable for the non-fuckwit. Someone will be along soon to recommend the SV650, which is also a pretty good choice, but I can't bring myself to tell anyone to buy one because I consider highly-strung Italian two-strokes to be a perfect learner bike. You might also consider the Kawasaki ER-6 or Yamaha FZ-6, both of which are used on the DA course. Like all the best things in life though it's a really personal thing - if you've got your heart set on a Bonneville it's not a completely stupid idea. There may be more practical choices out there but go with your heart. What you actually want though is a Tuono V4R - you can tell it's a safe bike because it doesn't have plastic all over it like those crotch rockets (please leave whatever's left of it to me in your will). Insurance as a new rider is going to be your sticking point - chuck your details and some bikes you like into comparethemarket and see what the prices come out at. I suspect the Bonnie will be fairly cheap because it's not generally picked by loving idiots. Helmets are an odd one - each brand (and even different models within the same brand - will have slightly different fits. Shoei are the longest back-to-front, Arai the roundest, and AGV somewhere in the middle. You don't have to go for the very best brands but you can't go wrong with any lid from those three manufacturers as long as it properly fits. If you want to go off-piste, the Sharp ratings site is a good start - http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/ - although some consider them to be overly paranoid. Avoid anything lower than a 3-star there though. As to kit - get stuff that you'll actually wear. Don't bother about a full one-piece race suit if it'll always be in the cupboard - look at a good-quality leather jacket and trousers, and a cheap waterproof oversuit, to last you year-round. You can also get Kevlar-reinforced jeans which are pretty good in a crash but look a bit special-needs once you're off the bike.
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Oct 15, 2012 23:30
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clutchpuck posted:CXVBR11000RR-S I google searched this to figure out what kind of engine it has. 
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Oct 15, 2012 23:49
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I could probably stretch to five grand, but it'd have to depend on what insurance was like. Is fully comp a good option for a bike? I always had it on a car but I suspect if you twat a bike at any sort of speed that would require an insurance claim you might as well buy another one based on the savings, but I could be wrong. (Cheers twisto, that's good stuff)
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Oct 15, 2012 23:50
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Has anyone given the new Kawasaki Ninja 300 a go yet? The ABS version has started to eclipse my hunger for buying a Honda CBR 250.
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Oct 15, 2012 23:51
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Bozza posted:I could probably stretch to five grand, but it'd have to depend on what insurance was like. Is fully comp a good option for a bike? I always had it on a car but I suspect if you twat a bike at any sort of speed that would require an insurance claim you might as well buy another one based on the savings, but I could be wrong. I pay something like 300 NZD per year for full insurance, if you can get it that cheap it's definitely worth it. To compare; I'd usually pay 500 NZD/year for my car. Plus third party insurance won't cover the bike if it's stolen, will it?
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Oct 15, 2012 23:59
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Bozza posted:I could probably stretch to five grand, but it'd have to depend on what insurance was like. Is fully comp a good option for a bike? I always had it on a car but I suspect if you twat a bike at any sort of speed that would require an insurance claim you might as well buy another one based on the savings, but I could be wrong. I don't know if your consumer inusrance language is the same as ours, but: Comprehensive - pays out if it gets stolen or damaged without you on it - is GOOD. Get that and get a deductible on it that won't hurt too much. Collision - pays out if it gets damaged with you on it, ie you hit something and it's your fault - is also good however if you get a cheap first ride, this coverage may not really be necessary. I carry a higher collision deductible because it affects rates a good bit and I figure if I crash it bad enough to worry about the deductible, I'll likely be off a bike for a while anyhow and $500 vs $1000 is going to be the least of my worries. Liability - pays the party whose person/property you damaged - is probably required. Get good limits so you don't get sued when your limits run out. It's not going to be expensive because most motorcycle accidents are single-vehicle (motorcycle vs. tree or road something) and tend to not cause a lot of collateral damage. Under/uninsured motorist - pays if you crash and it's their fault, but they have no insurance. Get this, you can easily be proper-hosed without it. Personal injury protection - not sure what the healthcare environment is like where you are but here, it's good to have PIP.
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Oct 16, 2012 00:05
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Bozza if I were you I'd check what insurance would run before getting too attached to any specific bike. Brit insurance costs are eye-popping. You may be better off starting on a 250 even if you can get a bigger bike just to ease out that first year of insurance expense. The Bonneville isn't a bad starting bike but it may get penalized by insurance for displacement even if it isn't that fast. Also depending on how urban you are, make sure you have a good secure place to park it at night.
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Oct 16, 2012 03:31
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Bozza posted:Hello chaps, I have been pointed your way from the People's Republic of Debate and Discussion to talk bikes. I started on an 82 Suzuki GS650 GL. Got it for $250, with about $100 of parts had it running fine. It made a great starter bike because I insured it for about $100/year and didn't cry when I dropped it while practicing for the motorcycle test at the DMV parking lot. Eventually sold it for $700. I'm on a Bonneville now, a 2010. It's a beautiful bike and rides wonderfully, but I paid enough ($7700 including tax and title, 3,000 miles on the clock, spare Corbin seat, Dart windscreen, and a luggage rack included) that I wouldn't recommend it for a new rider. However, if you find a running one cheap, it's certainly not too powerful for a new rider. I've had mine up to 95 (hard to find empty, cop-free straight roads near me) and it passes cars drat well, but I don't think you'll ever do an accidental wheelie (is a wheelie even possible on one?) and the engine braking won't tear your head off if you drop the throttle suddenly. I find the ride comfortable (recently did a ~1500 mile trip), exciting on twisties if you want it to be, but dependable and safe when commuting. My suggestion? Buy a cheap UJM (universal Japanese motorcycle), ride it until you're comfortable, then see what you think about a Bonnie. You may even end up selling the first bike for more than you paid; I managed it by buying one with a hosed up tank (mis-applied Kreem tank liner), replacing the tank with a $20 eBay purchase, and putting in a new battery. (Having my employer ship it from Rochester NY to the San Francisco area didn't hurt either, I guess). For reference, both the Suzuki and the Bonneville get 35-40 mpg for my daily commute, and I tended closer to 50 mpg when I took the Bonnie on a long highway trip. Be warned that if you buy a Bonneville, you'll get lots of old guys coming up and telling you how they had one back in the 60s  Probably more so for you, given that you're in the UK.One last warning: buy a bike at your peril, your car may end up rusting in the shed.
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Oct 16, 2012 05:49
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Hey guys. I'm in the market for buying my first bike, and I'm more-or-less at a loss as to what I should be getting. I mean, I've decided on getting a 250 cc bike, partially because they're all learner legal over here in Australia, and partially because I suspect it's the safest choice I can make. Beyond knowing that Kawasaki and Yamaha make pretty good bikes, everything else is crazy mysterious to me. If any other Ausgoons could chime in and tell me if the deals I'm looking at are hella lovely, it'd be much appreciated. Right now I'm looking at three bikes on Ebay - a 1993 Honda CM 250 for $1650 (though I suspect I can get it for $1400), a 1983 Kawasaki Z 250, for $1500, and a 1997 Yamaha Virago 250 for $1500. All three bikes are described as having no work to do (though of course I imagine I'll be putting in some money regardless over time), but I'm really only looking for something for the following year, as after that I'll be out of university and hopefully gainfully employed. Any advice much appreciated.
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Oct 16, 2012 06:01
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I bought a motorcycle and in the months between march and now my brake rotors practically rusted off my car 
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Oct 16, 2012 06:43
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Bozza posted:I could probably stretch to five grand, but it'd have to depend on what insurance was like. Is fully comp a good option for a bike? I always had it on a car but I suspect if you twat a bike at any sort of speed that would require an insurance claim you might as well buy another one based on the savings, but I could be wrong. Fully comp is pretty pointless on a bike. Not quite as pointless for a naked bike as a faired bike but still it's a massive price jump for something that you'll probably never be able to claim on because of the high excess and ease of breaking bits on a bike, especially as a new rider. Stick to TPF&T for now. Pham Nuwen posted:I started on an 82 Suzuki GS650 GL. Got it for $250, with about $100 of parts had it running fine. It made a great starter bike because I insured it for about $100/year and didn't cry when I dropped it while practicing for the motorcycle test at the DMV parking lot. Eventually sold it for $700. Cheap, running, non basket-case UJMs are much, much rarer in the UK than they apparently are in the US (given the amount of people on CA who ride them). Probably that's because the EOL for a UJM here isn't a quite obsolescence somewhere but being sold to couriers who will then put a hundred thousand miles on them in a year, before being rapaciously stripped for spares to keep another courier bike on the road for another week. Also I'd advise against buying a bike that old to any newbie unless they already have pretty good knowledge of spanner-twirling, as well as their own garage. However perhaps dropping a grand on a decent second-hand 125 for your first year on the road isn't a bad idea, to get the first through drops out of your system. Bozza - 5 grand puts almost the entire Royal Enfield range into your budget if you want to go seriously retro. goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Oct 16, 2012 |
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Oct 16, 2012 07:27
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occipitallobe posted:Right now I'm looking at three bikes on Ebay - a 1993 Honda CM 250 for $1650 (though I suspect I can get it for $1400), a 1983 Kawasaki Z 250, for $1500, and a 1997 Yamaha Virago 250 for $1500.
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Oct 16, 2012 13:32
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Found this locally as I've been somewhat looking at the 650s: I might go check it out. 28,000 miles for 6 years isn't too bad. Looks like it has been down on the right side, but not at speed.
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Oct 17, 2012 15:00
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http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/3327295331.html Second one of these that I've seen and they're always tempting. Should I be talking myself out of or into it? 1992 Bandit GSF400, $1400.
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Oct 18, 2012 06:06
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