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WolfensteinBag posted:Groomers doing this is actually my biggest complaint with working in the industry, and the biggest reason I'm working on transitioning to other work. Verbal corrections might not be as harsh as popping a leash, but they still work in the same way- scaring or startling a dog to get them to stop what they're doing. It might work for a second, and there definitely are certain dogs that you'll see results from. But if a dog sensitive, or even worse, already nervous, correcting a dog like that is going to make them worse. If a dog has a bad time going through a particular step (say, nail cutting), they can learn to fear it. If they're afraid of it, then they're more likely to act out. If the dog acts out, the groomer keeps giving harsher and harsher verbal corrections (especially if the person is frustrated) making the dog have a harder and harder time every visit. Eventually you have a dog that is completely nuts, and the groomer blames the owner for lack of training. Let me clarify here-- I don't ever scream at a dog, I've yelled at several bad dogs on rare occasions, if the gentle correction will not work. Instead, saying in a firm/calm voice STOP IT, or "NO". Most dogs know what "NO" means. Trust me here, I don't ever use harsh corrections, I know several groomers who do. Keep calm and groom the dog. I've done several "impossible" dogs by refusing to give into their bad behavior. Does that make more sense? (word soup earlier because the boyfriend was talking to me while I was posting) The Big Whoop fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 02:47
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The Big Whoop posted:Ah, I assumed as much. I go against the grain with faces, feet and tails but I wasn't quite so sure about belly bands and such. I've pretty much taught myself to hand strip wiry breeds. I won't stand for being treated like poo poo though. Are pro handlers really that full of themselves? If so I'm not sure I really want to get into it that much. It really depends, some are really bad and others are pretty easy to work with, but will let you have it if you gently caress something up. I'm not sure it's so much being full of themselves as "if you gently caress up with this dog, there goes MY paycheck and client". You really do have to prove yourself though, don't expect to be on the road and grooming/showing the dogs immediately. You'd be expected to work at the kennel, learn there, and work your way up. A friend of mine, who worked for perhaps one of the most talented Terrier groomers and handlers of all time, but well known for also being the biggest rear end in a top hat on the planet, describes his experience like this: He had been working at the kennels for months and had not been allowed to go to a show, he was getting frustrated and asked his boss when he was going to be able to start going to shows and learning there (he wanted to go pro himself and did eventually). The Boss looked him in the eye and said "what have you done to show me you DESERVE to go to a show??" My friend thought about it for a second, realized he needed to start busting his rear end to prove himself trustworthy and dedicated enough, did just that, and soon enough was going to shows, learning to groom dogs up for the ring and handle them. For example, I've been to Gabriel Rangel's kennel. He has an army of assistants working there handstripping and grooming his dogs....literally, but only the few most experienced will be the ones he takes to the shows. You will learn, and it will be the best grooming education you can get anywhere, but you have to work your way up from the bottom. That's just the way it works. If you've taught yourself to handstrip, I can guarantee you're not doing it right, it is an art unto itself that takes years and years to learn how to do properly, and each breed's coat needs to be handled differently. 
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Feb 28, 2013 03:20
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The Big Whoop posted:Let me clarify here-- I don't ever scream at a dog, I've yelled at several bad dogs on rare occasions, if the gentle correction will not work. Instead, saying in a firm/calm voice STOP IT, or "NO". Most dogs know what "NO" means. Trust me here, I don't ever use harsh corrections, I know several groomers who do. Keep calm and groom the dog. I've done several "impossible" dogs by refusing to give into their bad behavior. Disclaimer: The Big Whoop, I am absolutely not meaning this as a personal attack or anything, I'm just using this train of thought to comment on things I've seen in other people. I have never seen you work, and for all I know there's a mix of communication here and you go about things exactly like I do (which it sounds like you do the majority of the time, I feel like we could have worked together! And honestly, I think 99.99% of the time you probably use the method I'm about to describe) but this sentence right here is going to help me make a point about what I've seen in others. I see this same mentality a lot in people, and I think it's a huge reason that there is a problem with dominance/punishment based theory gripping with claws of death to the grooming industry. In all dog related areas, there has been a huge movement towards positive reinforcement based training, but it seems like groomers (in general) are clinging for dear life to older methodology because a lot of the time, it actually works. If corrections didn't work pretty well, people wouldn't have been training dogs like that for practically as long as people have EVER trained dogs. I think what The Big Whoop said right here, "I don't ever use harsh corrections," shows another reason people aren't taking more strides to different methods. All over when it comes to dogs, not just with grooming, people think or reason, "Yeah, I'm using corrections, but I'm not yelling at or choking the dog, and I praise them when they're being good, so I'm using positive training." There's not being mean to a dog, and there's Positive Reinforcement based training, and though it may be hard to see on the surface, the psychology involved in how they work is completely different. It's the core basis of the training that affects how the dog view's what is going on, and it can garner some very different results. Even when used "nicely", the psychology behind corrections is based in punishment. "If you don't do X, then you get a verbal correction (punishment)." Even if you also add a reward for the good behavior, you're still utilizing punishment which can make things really rough for some dogs. Lets use an example of a new dog coming in to your shop. We'll just use a shih tzu because they're small and easy to manipulate. The dog has had hardly any experience grooming, and is a wiggly little nutball for everything. You go to do the nails, and obviously, the dog won't hold still. What a LOT of people would do in this instance is start off with the corrections right out of the gate. A guttural "NO!" or even less clear to the dog, "Hold still! Stop it!" etc. Yes, this may startle the dog into stopping the wiggling enough for you to do your job. However, the dog has never learned what the correction is in reference to. Even if the dog knows what "No" means, does the dog understands that of all the things in the world, you mean the dog should hold still? Or how about a dog that likes to sit down for grooming, and you correct with a "No". It's absolutely possible that the dog's natural "go-to" command is a sit, and upon hearing that "No" has decided to work back to the most basic command it knows- which is exactly opposite of what you want. What can happen, now, can further escalate the issues. In the groomer's mind, the correction worked for maybe a second (startling the dog into holding still) but the dog starts acting up again. Well, that correction worked once, more corrections will work again, right? So the groomer keeps on with the verbal corrections. Meanwhile, the dog is getting confused and stressed, causing it to act up even more. Even if the dog is good for a second and the groomer gives verbal praise for holding still, there's just as likely a chance the dog doesn't understand the praise as much as the correction. I can never stress enough, dogs only understand what we take the time to teach them. So the dog is confused and stressed, the groomer is getting stressed, and the whole situation just doesn't get much better. Ok, time for a new approach! Like we just saw, dogs only understand what we've taught them. This dog knows jack poo poo about grooming (I ALWAYS approach a new dog with this mentality, if nothing else, the dog knows jack poo poo about how I work). So when we start out, it's our job to teach the dog what is expected of him. Starting from scratch, we grab the first paw getting ready for the nails. The dog starts wiggling. Instead of verbally correcting the dog, we sit and wait it out. This may sound counter intuitive, but while you're firmly holding the paw, let the dog pull and wiggle (within reason, obviously, keep everyone safe!) Eventually, the dog will realize (without the use of corrections) that his chosen behavior (wiggling) has not given him the result he wanted (you letting go) so he'll stop to think of what to do next. This is your cue to use a calm, praising voice (since dogs respond to your tone) and start cutting the nails. It'll be a challenge at first, because a dog that's used to wiggling is going to keep trying to wiggle, but if you hold off on the corrections, most of the time you'll still get through in about the same amount of time. Then, the absolute biggest key here, DO NOT LET GO OF THE PAW UNTIL THE DOG IS CALM! I can NOT stress this enough!!! I know when you're done you want to be done, but if you let go in a moment when the dog has decided to jerk away, in the dog's mind, pulling away has worked. The whole goal here is to teach the dog that the only way you're going to quit what you're doing is for the dog to hold still. Once you start working with a dog like this, and you can see he has a solid understanding of what you expect of him, THEN you can start teaching the dog a calm verbal correction to remind them to hold still. Pick a cue that you will use on all dogs, that comes natural to you. Now, this isn't a correction based in startling! This is just going to be a sound/command that is easy for the dog to hear that they will learn means to focus back on you. Like I said before, I tend to use "Nah aht" because it's easy for me to say, and it's a very clear sound that the dog doesn't hear in everyday life. Lets go back to our wiggly shih tzu. He's come in a few times, now, so he has a basic understanding of needing to hold still for his nails, but he sometimes still slips. When he starts wiggling NOW is when you introduce a correction command. "Nah aht! Settle." (or "Calm down" or "Quit wiggling" or whatever you want to use to indicate "Hold still for your nails") Only use the command once, and then praise for the good behavior, "Good Settle!" This whole interaction is teaching the dog 3 things: 1) Nah aht = "My chosen behavior is wrong" 2) Good = "My chosen behavior is right" 3) Settle = "Hold still for nails" Through this method, you teach the dog what you want it to do, and you give yourself a way to remind the dog of what that is. It's also obviously adaptable to every other area of grooming (my favorite being, "In the tub," haha) and dogs respond MUCH better to this approach than to starting off with, and continuing with, confusing corrections. IMPORTANT NOTE: This is ONLY for dogs without a history of problems, and who aren't trying to bite you! Obviously you need to adjust what you do to keep yourself safe and to make sure you can still do your job. Absolutely throw a muzzle on a dog that's biting, or get someone to hold a wiggler if they don't get the hint. End of the day, you're a groomer and not a trainer, so there's only so much you can do in the time you're allowed, so you're going to have to make sacrifices training wise to get your job done. However, this method should always be the basis of your work, no matter how you have to adapt for different dogs. It's the psychology behind it that's important. WolfensteinBag fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 13:48
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Great, my first attempt at DIY dog nail trimming and I hit the quick  Benji is hiding from me and comfort-gnawing his toy. Here's the other dog's foot, with a nail trim about 3 weeks old. I'm not sure whether the quick is still right there (white part) or if it's just old crust or something? Both have really thick-assed nails, too, and most of them are cut at an angle so it's hard to tip. Any suggestions? (No idea what happened with that pic, but you can make out the two nails on the end) 
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Mar 2, 2013 01:23
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I think a lot of the way I've seen groomers correct dogs, or at least the things that have bothered me seem to be done out of frustration. It seems like kind of thing where if the groomer gets frustrated and tense, the dog gets more frustrated and tense and "misbehaves" more and it just keeps cycling like that. I've been using basically what WolfensteinBag describes for nail trims, I keep hold of the foot and don't let go until I'm finished, and then only when they're relaxed and not struggling. Only problem I've had is the table I have to use is flat against the wall on one side, so I have to get at half the paws from an awkward angle. joyfulgirl129 did you have any quik-stop powder or corn starch to put on it? He'll be perfectly fine and I bet he's more upset at having his feet handled in a weird way (and because you're upset!) than being quicked. If you're not sure if you've got a nail short enough, press the tip of the nail with a fingernail and it feels a little squishy that's the quick and that's a good place to stop. The white crusty stuff isn't the quick, so if you're still seeing that you can keep clipping nail off. Fat Dio fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Apr 20, 2013 |
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Mar 2, 2013 01:58
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joyfulgirl129 posted:Great, my first attempt at DIY dog nail trimming and I hit the quick When I have nails like that I only do the very tip, straight on. Buffing would be your best bet I think. Make sure you're not freaking out about it or anything, he'll pick up on your anxiety and so on. Is he some sort of terrier mix? They usually have really long quicks. Fat Dio posted:I think a lot of the way I've seen groomers correct dogs, or at least the things that have bothered me seem to be done out of frustration. It seems like kind of thing where if the groomer gets frustrated and tense, the dog gets more frustrated and tense and "misbehaves" more and it just keeps cycling like that. I've been using basically what WolfensteinBag describes for nail trims, I keep hold of the foot and don't let go until I'm finished, and then only when they're relaxed and not struggling. Pretty much this. People at your job are probably in the time=money frame of mind, so they don't understand when to give the dog a break. The only time I got truly frustrated at a dog would be a little shih tzu, who's owner was really really rude when I called to clarify the haircut and then the dog bit me, twice. I put her back in the kennel, bitched a bit, and then stepped outside for a little while. Didn't trust the dog at all from that point on, and had to muzzle her for the rest of the groom. There is very rarely dogs that I will not do... she is on that list now, and only because the owner was so nasty. I am willing to work with nasty, biting dogs (I did an aussie x Jack that wanted to bite for everything that had to do with clippers/scissors, but the owner was really nice and understanding about it, and I thought, for the health of the dog he had to get used to being manipulated on the table because of vet visits) but I will NOT tolerate being disrespected by their owners. The dogs have an excuse. Human beings do not. The Big Whoop fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Mar 2, 2013 |
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Mar 2, 2013 05:01
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Yes, I stuck it right in cornstarch and stopped the bleeding, and 20 minutes later he was running around like nothing. And yes, they are both terrier mixes and have jet-black nails that are thick as rhino horns. The vet cut their nails last time and shaped them really weirdly; the ends of their nails are in an almost C-shape. Big Whoop & Fat Dio: Thanks so much for your help and advice, I know I'll get better at this, and there is only so much you can learn from youtube videos. I tipped the reactive dog's nails last night and he was fine with it, and he got chicken
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Mar 2, 2013 16:33
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I am clueless about grooming, but I'm wondering what you guys would recommend having done for a sheltie? It's my friend's dog, Toki, and he's due for another grooming soon. My friend is also pretty clueless, though. The dog is pretty darn fluffy, I'm wondering if there's a good, sleeker, low-maintenance cut for him or something? i am the groom dumb halp Not the best pic, but it's all I got.  Love that little dude. 
Skizzles fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Mar 5, 2013 |
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Mar 5, 2013 15:47
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I groom my dog by colour block. White first, then black, then tan. Maybe try that? Might be tough with a merle.
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Mar 5, 2013 16:31
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Yeah his color's kind of all over the place, even for a merle.
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Mar 5, 2013 18:09
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Skizzles posted:I am clueless about grooming, but I'm wondering what you guys would recommend having done for a sheltie? It's my friend's dog, Toki, and he's due for another grooming soon. My friend is also pretty clueless, though. The dog is pretty darn fluffy, I'm wondering if there's a good, sleeker, low-maintenance cut for him or something? Yup, he's fluffy because that is the type of dog he is. Don't clip him. Just ask for a bath/brush, hopefully the place he's getting groomed is using a forced air dryer, as that will loosen up and blow out a lot of the undercoat that is stuck in there. A lot of sheltie owners ask for the rump fur/fluff around the butt to be thinned out so they don't get swamp rear end/poo poo stuck in their fur. If that is a problem that area could be trimmed down without clipping his whole coat down and making him look like a doofus.
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Mar 5, 2013 18:15
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Sounds good.
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Mar 5, 2013 19:10
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Also check behind his ears, in his armpits, around his penis, butt, and around where his collar sits for mats that might need extra attention to brush out or that might need to be shaved. He can also get his feet and between his toe pads tidied up so he doesn't collect as much mud or whatever whenever he goes outside.
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Mar 5, 2013 19:17
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Is it reasonable to just ask for an ear cleaning and gland expression? We bathe our dog at home and dremel her nails, and I just don't want to feel rude asking for the lovely (hurr) jobs. Although, those strike me as the fastest, easiest ones, so maybe not.
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Mar 6, 2013 04:07
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Gonktastic - for sure. I offer various little services (toenail clip, hair around eyes etc) and would absolutely do those two (even though anals are the worst). Maybe phone around and ask a few groomers in your area. Quick intro - hello! I'm a self-taught groomer of 7 years from Victoria in Australia. I run my own salon from an awesome vet clinic. So excited to find this thread! The best part about this job (apart from puppies) is that you never stop learning I really want to travel to the US, grooming seems very different than it is here! So many people don't even realise its a real job...
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Mar 9, 2013 12:13
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Anal glands are the worst... I had a pug decide that toenail clipping was hell on earth and pooed and released his anal glands all over the table. NOT COOL. Can anyone describe the layout of their salon? I'm curious how other places are set up (physically, not how you book appointments or run things) but I don't think it'd go over well if I walked into any of the others in town and said "oh hey I work for one of your competitors, can I look around?" Mine's basically one long room divided into two by a door that can swing either way, like at a restaurant. Bath tubs at one end, dryers and kennels in the middle, then grooming tables and the reception area at the other end.
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Mar 12, 2013 01:06
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Panzer Attack posted:Gonktastic - for sure. I offer various little services (toenail clip, hair around eyes etc) and would absolutely do those two (even though anals are the worst). Maybe phone around and ask a few groomers in your area. How did you go about this? I'm eventually looking to move into my own buisness. Corps really not my style recently. I have the manager title but they won't let me be an actual manager HEY LET'S FOCUS ON UPSELLING CUSTOMERS WHEN THEY ALREADY THINK WE'RE TOO EXPENSIVE. COOL RIGHT? The problem is no one takes me seriously because I'm in my early 20's. Fat Dio posted:Anal glands are the worst... I had a pug decide that toenail clipping was hell on earth and pooed and released his anal glands all over the table. NOT COOL.
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Mar 13, 2013 20:06
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How is the self service area run? Let's say a completely new customer walked in and wanted to give their dog a super simple bath, dry, and brush, would you go through the equipment and tools with them then let them go at it? Are they able to get help and advice while they're working on their dog?
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Mar 14, 2013 04:14
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Our local national chain dog boutique offers this and it is great. We call ahead and ask if there is anyone using it and if it is available they hold it for ten minutes which is plenty of time to pack up the dogs and head over. We can bring our own products or use theirs for a small fee and they provide towels too. The only thing they do not provide is the use of the blower or any grooming tools which is no big deal. When we are done we move the dog off to groomers table where we can towel it off and trim nails etc. so long as we bring our own gear. We do not bother the groomer if she is working but when she is not working with a pet she always comes over and spends a few minutes with us. Its ten bucks for the use of the facility which is not a bad deal considering it spares us of making a mess at home.
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Mar 14, 2013 13:01
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The Big Whoop posted:How did you go about this? I'm eventually looking to move into my own buisness. Corps really not my style recently. I have the manager title but they won't let me be an actual manager HEY LET'S FOCUS ON UPSELLING CUSTOMERS WHEN THEY ALREADY THINK WE'RE TOO EXPENSIVE. COOL RIGHT? The problem is no one takes me seriously because I'm in my early 20's. Have heart! You are me ~3 years ago What I did was a management role like the one you are currently in ("hey there you are the manager which entitles you to $2 more an hour than everyone else and customers may yell at you, but head office will micromanage the poo poo out of you and make you miserable ok!"), which made me hate my job. I left, set up my own salon at the old place's direct competition (just walked in and offered myself as available, they said yes) and built up a viable grooming concept they still use today. They totally screwed me over too, so I quit grooming for a year to get my head together and then started vet nursing, which made me realise I could groom for them too! My boss died and the place went to crap, so I got my ABN (Australian business number), registered a business name, found an accountant and located a vet clinic on the same wavelength as me. I've just turned 28, so don't think you can't do it too! Just hunt around and network. It might take a while, since this industry is so under regulated and inundated by assholes, but you will get there!
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Mar 15, 2013 07:45
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Does anyone have a good recommendation for a wiry coat shampoo? I'm trying to salvage my miniature Schnauzer's coat. It's probably hopeless, but he gets soaked to the skin every time it rains and I feel like I need to at least try to get him some real coat back. I don't know how I'm going to keep him cool this summer though, his hair seems like it just keeps getting longer.
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Mar 16, 2013 20:06
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Fat Dio posted:How is the self service area run? Let's say a completely new customer walked in and wanted to give their dog a super simple bath, dry, and brush, would you go through the equipment and tools with them then let them go at it? Are they able to get help and advice while they're working on their dog? It doesn't get used very often, but it has towels, a hose and basic shampoo, special shampoo is an extra fee. If it is their first time, I will walk back with them and show them how stuff works, tell them my name and tell them if they need anything else to just grab one of us. Panzer Attack posted:Have heart! You are me ~3 years ago Explosions! posted:Does anyone have a good recommendation for a wiry coat shampoo? I'm trying to salvage my miniature Schnauzer's coat. It's probably hopeless, but he gets soaked to the skin every time it rains and I feel like I need to at least try to get him some real coat back. I don't know how I'm going to keep him cool this summer though, his hair seems like it just keeps getting longer. Speaking of, have any of you guys heard of a dog being hand-stripped until it bled? Or is this just one of those crazy rumors that floats around shops because the groomers are too lazy to learn more?
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Mar 17, 2013 04:45
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Explosions! posted:Does anyone have a good recommendation for a wiry coat shampoo? I'm trying to salvage my miniature Schnauzer's coat. It's probably hopeless, but he gets soaked to the skin every time it rains and I feel like I need to at least try to get him some real coat back. I don't know how I'm going to keep him cool this summer though, his hair seems like it just keeps getting longer. You're going to need to handstrip the dog quite a lot until the wire coat grows back in, clippered schnauzer coats are pure fluff. You'd have to strip the dog down to the skin quite a few times, only doing it once or twice won't cut it. If you go this route, find a groomer who knows what they're doing. Doing it yourself will likely end in a very sore wrist and blisters for you and one really pissed off dog. However stripping out the coat, even the fluffy undercoat (which is all the dog has at the moment), doesn't hurt, they just usually don't like it. It takes a loooong time to restore a wire coat, and you have to deal with a bald dog for large periods of time.
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Mar 18, 2013 05:10
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The only way I can imagine a dog bleeding while being stripped is if a groomer was using a knife incorrectly..? You're on,y pulling out the hair that wants to come out, unless you're poorly trained, but even then I highly doubt there would be blood. Grooming ain't regulated over here either. I doubt things will change for a long time It's so frustrating to those of us who are passionate about it and try our hardest to stay educated and ethical.
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Mar 21, 2013 06:33
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Panzer Attack, do you have employees or are you by yourself? I'm currently "supervising" like six people. If you're by yourself, how do you deal with difficult dogs? So dogs are so wiggly not even the groomer's helper will work.
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Mar 23, 2013 05:21
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At the moment I'm by myself. It's not so bad! I tend to not use restraints, and for whatever reason the dogs I groom are pretty chill. I use a lot of treats and try not to push them over into stress-freak out mode. I had one yesterday that was a bit bitey and threw a cage muzzle on for his sensitive areas (back legs). The only thing I have real trouble with is getting big dogs into the bath when thy dig their heels in. I'm only small, so sometimes they weigh more than me! If bribes (treats) don't work, I will pop their front legs into the bath so I'm only lifting their back half, or go find the vet so he can do it for me  That has only happened twice.After a while you get a feel for when dogs are going to flip out and it becomes a lot easier to work with them. It comes with experience and patience, I used to groom with rescue and do grooming rehabilitation training with scared/aggressive dogs, so I can work muzzle-free with dogs that will make mincemeat out of someone with less experience. I also recommend reading dog behaviour books and watching DVDs!
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Mar 27, 2013 11:33
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Panzer Attack posted:After a while you get a feel for when dogs are going to flip out and it becomes a lot easier to work with them. It comes with experience and patience, I used to groom with rescue and do grooming rehabilitation training with scared/aggressive dogs, so I can work muzzle-free with dogs that will make mincemeat out of someone with less experience. I also recommend reading dog behaviour books and watching DVDs! This is SO absolutely true!! The more you can learn about behavior, the easier you make things for yourself. I saw this blog article posted through APDT yesterday, and I absolutely loved this quote: quote:There was a time when I misunderstood dog body language, and I missed the pre-cursors of aggressive behavior, which later developed into a serious behavior problem. Had I been aware that my dog was feeling uncomfortable or behaving defensively, I could have addressed the root of the problem with help from a trainer before the behavior escalated. There's a learning curve with reading dogs, and most of us did a lot of the wrong stuff before learning the right ways to read and train effectively. I honestly feel guilty at times because I know that with certain problem dogs, if I had done things differently wouldn't be so problematic now, and they might even ENJOY grooming. It's really important to be able to look back at approaches you once took, realize where you went wrong, and commit to learning how to do things better and better. My favorite authors and trainers are people that will fully admit that they've used methods in the past that didn't work as well as what they know now. It's great to hear you've worked so much trying to make the experience better for the dogs!
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Mar 27, 2013 12:07
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Good God all the stupidity about double coated shavedowns makes me seethe. There's apparently a vet around here that's telling people "Nah bro it's totally cool, it's a solution for two seasons." Que me getting grossed out by a pom who's coat is so damaged from being clipped so many times that he literally has BALD SPOTS ON HIM and it is causing him constant itching. My new groomer apparently loves doing double coated shavedowns, and no one wants to listen to me when I tell them IT IS ACTUALLY BAD FOR THE HEALTH OF THE DOG (including my new groomer). If any of you guys have a quick run through of what you usually tell people to convince them not to shave down their double coated breed (I don't mind doing it if the coat is already ruined), please share. Most people DO tend to listen to me, but there are those who chose not to.
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Apr 2, 2013 05:11
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My boss and I use to explain to them that just the bath + dry + brush out would get out all the loose undercoat and significantly help the dog keep cooler and more comfortable, and it would cost a lot less than getting them clipped. If you can explain it and let them know it will save them money, that usually helps!
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Apr 2, 2013 16:54
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Looking to adopt a poodle mix from the Humane Society that definitely needs a cut. The only grooming tools I have are a wire brush and some scissors, which is fine for my shepherd-collie mx between groomer visits. Obviously I'm going to wait until he is settled in with the family before taking him into a real groomer, but would there be anything I could pick up at the store while I'm there to help with home grooming? Poor guy is already getting mats. Fur is about 3-6" long. I'm not afraid to learn to do this at home. He is only 8lbs of fluff so I think I can handle it.
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Apr 3, 2013 03:47
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Definitely just make an appointment and take the dog in somewhere. It'll need a fresh start, and ESPECIALLY if the dog is nervous, you're going to want someone who knows what they're doing. I'd talk to the actual groomer and see what they suggest about at home grooming. I've had I don't know how many people schedule appointments with their dogs because they're overwhelmed grooming at home, and usually the dog has developed bad matting and behavior issues that could have been avoided by going to a professional from the beginning. So in short, my advice is to go to a groomer as soon as possible after adopting, and work your way up to grooming at home after at least a few trips to the professionals.
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Apr 3, 2013 07:09
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I'm sure if you ring around you could find a groomer willing to give you lessons? Maybe a home groomer or even a mobile. They'd be able to help you buy the right equipment too. A brush and comb are your best friends! Above all else, get someone to show you how to clip nails properly. They don't forget a cut quick readily (the nerve inside the nail that bleeds when you take too much off).
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Apr 3, 2013 09:53
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WolfensteinBag posted:Definitely just make an appointment and take the dog in somewhere. It'll need a fresh start, and ESPECIALLY if the dog is nervous, you're going to want someone who knows what they're doing. I'd talk to the actual groomer and see what they suggest about at home grooming. I've had I don't know how many people schedule appointments with their dogs because they're overwhelmed grooming at home, and usually the dog has developed bad matting and behavior issues that could have been avoided by going to a professional from the beginning. So in short, my advice is to go to a groomer as soon as possible after adopting, and work your way up to grooming at home after at least a few trips to the professionals. Ok thanks. He seems a little timid, but I think he has been in shelters for a while now. He's been with our Humane Society since March and was in a shelter before that. I wasn't sure if taking him to my groomer so early from adoption would up his stress level, but I see your point since a groomer could already handle a stressed dog. cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Apr 3, 2013 |
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Apr 3, 2013 12:31
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How often do I need to bathe my dog (like with soap) after swimming? I take him to the beach 3-4 times a week and usually rinse him off with the hose afterwards. He really hates baths though and I don't really like bathing him very often because his skin gets dry. He's a GSD and I brush him out every day, bathe him occasionally, and his nails kind of take care of themselves now. Besides helping with coat blowing is there any real reason to get him professionally groomed?
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Apr 3, 2013 15:26
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Triangulum posted:How often do I need to bathe my dog (like with soap) after swimming? I take him to the beach 3-4 times a week and usually rinse him off with the hose afterwards. He really hates baths though and I don't really like bathing him very often because his skin gets dry. He's a GSD and I brush him out every day, bathe him occasionally, and his nails kind of take care of themselves now. Besides helping with coat blowing is there any real reason to get him professionally groomed? Short answer, no. If you had a hard time with baths or nails yourself, then I'd say go for it, but if you can handle everything yourself, you're just paying someone to do it for you. As far as bathing, you might do well to use a mild, moisturizing shampoo after swimming. Salt stuck in Venca's coat could be drying it out. Just like not rinsing shampoo all the way will mess with a dog's skin, so will not getting all that salt out. If it were fresh water, that would be a different story.
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Apr 3, 2013 21:41
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My stepdad hangs out with a lot of salt water swimmers, since he did triathlons for a while, and several of them advocated just washing with conditioner after a swim to get the salt out. Most conditioners meant for humans still contain detergents, just less so than shampoos. Not sure if dog conditioners are the same, or if there is a human conditioner with detergents that is safe and good to use on dogs.
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Apr 3, 2013 21:52
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You can see where they tried to trim him up. Hard to take black dog pics. Groomer time!
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Apr 4, 2013 01:44
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cheese eats mouse posted:You can see where they tried to trim him up. Hard to take black dog pics. Holy crap I demand more pictures of this dog before you get him groomed, his proportions look hilarious.
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Apr 4, 2013 04:41
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Kerfuffle posted:Holy crap I demand more pictures of this dog before you get him groomed, his proportions look hilarious. Just take a super small cocker spaniel body and ears and stick a poodle face on it. He has giant floppy and fluffy ears. It's so cute. :3 I'll try to get more today in better light.
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Apr 4, 2013 13:06
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 00:42 |
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Kerfuffle posted:Holy crap I demand more pictures of this dog before you get him groomed, his proportions look hilarious. Aww, looks like the poor guy will have to get a 10 or 7 shavedown. I feel like it's a lot easier to maintain the coat after it's done once. You're not going to get those tangles out with a brush/comb) or he'll get brushburn. Other groomers, is there a length you hate using? I hate using 7s on matted dogs. I'd much rather go with a 10 because it goes through like butter and I've really only knicked a dog when I was using a 7. The Big Whoop fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Apr 4, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 19:01
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