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Nebakenezzer posted:And something in the same vein as that Forklift kit somebody posted earlier. Also available in a military version! 
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Sep 9, 2013 23:58
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I love the lightning in the background of that box art. Someone really wanted that truck to be exciting lol. So on another note, I used future as a clearcoat on my model. The problem is that it didn't level itself perfectly in all areas. Can I buff it smooth with something? Also do people generally use multiple coats or just one?
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Sep 9, 2013 23:59
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Arquinsiel posted:I love that a box is skill level 2 The military box is skill 1. "Simpler for enlisted" seems awfully smug of the manufacturer.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:55
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 I sort of obsessively collect model shipping containers, I love them. They're ridiculously over-priced though (like 5-10 each) but when I find them on the cheap I'll easily drop $100 on a bunch of them. Containers man!
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Sep 10, 2013 16:08
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I really want to have a few of those military containers on my desk to hold stuff in, but ouch ~$25 each.
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Sep 10, 2013 22:40
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pageerror404 posted:I love the lightning in the background of that box art. Someone really wanted that truck to be exciting lol. How uneven are we talking? If you can, sand it down and recoat. If you plan on polishing, I definitely recommend doing multiple coats. I typically do three.
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Sep 10, 2013 23:32
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George Zimmer posted:How uneven are we talking? If you can, sand it down and recoat. If you plan on polishing, I definitely recommend doing multiple coats. I typically do three. Future will dissolve itself too; if it's not too bad additional coats may level it down.
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Sep 11, 2013 01:55
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Midjack posted:The military box is skill 1. "Simpler for enlisted" seems awfully smug of the manufacturer.
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Sep 11, 2013 03:17
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Arquinsiel posted:It's also a smaller scale. Maybe that's it? Yeah that would do it. Details!
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Sep 11, 2013 03:29
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I found some errors in the markings on this M3 Lee kit. It's official, I now know more about tanks than some guy somewhere who literally gets paid to know about tanks. I mean, the kit even comes with the required decals. Come on, Revell, step up your game.
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Sep 11, 2013 05:15
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Wait until you start learning about Airfix tank kits and why they are all totally wrong.
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Sep 11, 2013 10:38
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Arquinsiel posted:Wait until you start learning about Airfix tank kits and why they are all totally wrong. Wait until you see people posting model parts overlaid over the actual aircraft blueprints. This isn't a very spergy example (believe me there are some amazingly anal people out there) but just over 1/2 way down the page he starts comparing the kit parts to line drawings of the actual aircraft. http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=748
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Sep 11, 2013 15:18
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Arquinsiel posted:Wait until you start learning about Airfix tank kits and why they are all totally wrong. Airfix kits cost under ten bucks for a tank or two, I wouldn't expect miracles from them. But yes, I've seen "this part is a fraction of a millimeter too long" sperging. Tank production had acceptable tolerances of a few degrees here and a few centimeters there. I read about a T-28 where one side was 15 cm longer than the other, and it worked fine.
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Sep 11, 2013 15:46
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They're very much a product of their time, and at that point a lot of he subjects weren't "historical relics" they were "this poo poo is obsolete".
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Sep 11, 2013 15:50
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Blistex posted:Wait until you see people posting model parts overlaid over the actual aircraft blueprints. This isn't a very spergy example (believe me there are some amazingly anal people out there) but just over 1/2 way down the page he starts comparing the kit parts to line drawings of the actual aircraft. I can't help but think working in a customer relations department of a kit manufacturer must be in some ways absolute hell. e: Midjack posted:Yeah that would do it. Details! It took me awhile to clue in one is automotive scale, and the other is big-mil scale.
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Sep 11, 2013 16:28
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Here we go, my first ever model car. It's a Tamiya Nissan 350Z. It was really fun (and also infuriating) to build and will look good sitting on my desk even though it has plenty of flaws. Now there are some important things I learned from my many, many screwups on this build. 1. Even if it is coated in Future, excessive superglue will fog clear parts. 2. Putting on a Future clearcoat before enamel paint has fully cured will mess up the finish. 3. You cannot buff with a dremel (cloth wheel), it spins too fast and gets too hot and it strips the paint right off. 4. If you do not perfectly flatten your masking tape down it will leave a rough edge. 5. Under no circumstances should acetone be near clear parts. It immediately fogs them on contact. 6. I need to learn how decals work so I don't destroy any more on my future models. 7. Airbrushing enamel paint causes a painful headache if you don't wear a mask. 8. When thinning enamel paints for airbrushing it requires a lot less thinner than acrylic pain would. I'm glad I bought a cheaper model for my first one. I think my next one will also be cheaper and if I manage to build it perfectly then I will start buying the $50+ models.
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Sep 13, 2013 03:43
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pageerror404 posted:Here we go, my first ever model car. It's a Tamiya Nissan 350Z. It was really fun (and also infuriating) to build and will look good sitting on my desk even though it has plenty of flaws. Looks great! My first definitely did not look as good. Paint looks nice and smooth.
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Sep 13, 2013 11:32
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Does anyone know of a 1:35th Soviet tank crew kit where the crew is shooting out of hatches? I have a diorama idea, and I want to scratch build as little as possible.
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Sep 13, 2013 16:36
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What is the best process for airbrushing cars? Is there some mist coat / wet coat thing I should be doing? Does it differ depending on the paint?
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Sep 15, 2013 02:34
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The fun of building a model is directly proportional to the amount of giant red stars painted on it. Freehand, since Revell didn't bother including any decals. The kit was their old cheap 1:32nd "US Lee Tank M3" one.       The inscription reads "Our cause is righteous, victory will be ours". The full slogan also has "the enemy will be vanquished" in the middle, but I ran out of room.
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Sep 15, 2013 22:16
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I like the pose you have the crew; it very clearly says "just chillin'". I also like whatever you have around the hull cannon. I would also say "is that two tank crews" but thanks to Girls und Panzer(!) I know the M3 came with a double-plus funsize crew.
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Sep 16, 2013 01:31
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It's gauze, sprayed black and drybrushed with brown and desert yellow. Costs next to nothing, and looks almost as good as those fancy resin aftermarket kits. And not only did the Lee take a whole ton of guys to run, the Soviets managed to cram 10 more infantrymen in there, with the tank remaining completely combat capable. It was pretty drat roomy in there.
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Sep 16, 2013 02:37
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Take a look at these: 1 2 3 4 This is Monty's Grant at the IWM in London from a trip there three years back. Surprisingly big, but I dunno if you'd be comfortable with ten extra dudes in there.
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Sep 16, 2013 23:25
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I'm not convinced that ten extra guys figure is all inside the tank and not at least some riding on the exterior as the Soviets tended to do.
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Sep 17, 2013 04:43
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The size of the M3 Medium allows for transport of up to 10 soldiers with PPSh submachine guns. When this many soldiers are in the tank, it is possible to fire from all of the tank's weapons. Based on this, we deem it possible to recommend the use of an M3 Medium as an APC. I couldn't find the numbers for how many can fit on top of a Lee, but the Soviet figure for Shermans is six.
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Sep 17, 2013 05:19
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Seems like it's counting the crew as infantrymen and just packing an extra three guys in.
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Sep 17, 2013 05:30
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So I have been wondering why car modelling is dominated by enamel and lacquer paint. I have had a really hard time finding examples of cars airbrushed with acrylic paints and there is very little information about painting with acrylic. On the few boards and articles I have seen talking about acrylics, people complain that they can't get them glossy enough. I decided to test it out myself by painting a couple spoons. I am very please with how they turned out. Both spoons were painted with Vallejo Model-Color thinned with Liquitex Airbrush Medium and they were clearcoated with Future.  Since they turned out so well and I hate working with enamel paints, I don't see any reason not to paint my next model with acrylic.
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Sep 18, 2013 21:54
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Use a cheaper model for your next one though. There could be issues when painting over a glued and primed body that don't show up on a very smooth plastic spoon.
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Sep 18, 2013 22:12
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Jonny Nox posted:Use a cheaper model for your next one though. There could be issues when painting over a glued and primed body that don't show up on a very smooth plastic spoon. or prime a spoon and test again!
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Sep 19, 2013 00:36
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I think the main concern with using acrylics for painting cars is that they don't stand up well to sanding or buffing. When going for a truly glass-smooth finish, many modelers will sand and buff the primer and the main coats, as well as the top clearcoat. Sanding or buffing acrylics tends to completely remove the paint, whereas a lacquer or enamel will stand up a bit more to repeated rubbing and buffing. Lacquers/enamels also will buff out smoother overall than an acrylic, and you want as smooth a surface as possible before you go in with a clearcoat. Acrylics can certainly get the job done, but it takes a deft touch and a lot more time if you want an equivalent glassy finish.
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Sep 19, 2013 01:41
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Alpine Mustache posted:or prime a spoon and test again! The red one was primed.
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Sep 19, 2013 04:59
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I bought some buddies for my Hotchkiss.  Hm, I think I need some more. The Hotchkiss only fits a crew of two, and there's 5 of them.   Much better! The German tank crew figures are MasterBox "German Tank Crew, Kursk 1943: Out of the frying pan, and into the fire". The box art features a PzKpfw. III Ausf. H and a T-34 mod. 1940, so it doesn't really match up with the kit name. Also, despite saying "four figures" on the front, the kit includes five.
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Sep 24, 2013 01:21
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To be fair, the Soviets did kind of tend to run tanks until they literally fell apart or got exploded even more than everyone else did, so given that the Germans had four Panzer I in combat at Prokhorovka a Model 1940 T-34 isn't all that unlikely.
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Sep 24, 2013 01:43
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So, what do people around here use when weight is called for? I usually use old bolts and screws, but this kit I'm building needs something really heavy in the nose, as like 2/3rds of the length is rear overhang.
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Sep 25, 2013 00:27
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Coins mostly TBH. I tend to stick one cent in for every ton a tank should weigh. I do 20mil stuff though, so you might want to put a bit more weight in for larger scales.
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Sep 25, 2013 00:34
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Nebakenezzer posted:So, what do people around here use when weight is called for? I usually use old bolts and screws, but this kit I'm building needs something really heavy in the nose, as like 2/3rds of the length is rear overhang. I used to use lead airgun pellets. I guess you could use lead wheel weights too, if you can find em.
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Sep 25, 2013 03:25
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Coins work well, depending on how much weight you need. If density isn't an issue, try something like plasticine, you can fit it into any space you want that way.
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Sep 25, 2013 03:28
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Plain old modelling clay is actually pretty dense, so that'd work.
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Sep 25, 2013 04:02
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Starting to learn laser cutting, these are my first cuts. Only about half the sheet of stuff I cut was salvageable with a little cutting to free the parts. Hopefully my next batch will turn out better, laser cutting is awesome and it's giving me such a scale modelling boner.
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Sep 25, 2013 06:19
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Nebakenezzer posted:So, what do people around here use when weight is called for? I usually use old bolts and screws, but this kit I'm building needs something really heavy in the nose, as like 2/3rds of the length is rear overhang. Fishing sinkers.
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Sep 26, 2013 23:59
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