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Pegasus released a really unique kit. Shame it's in 1:72nd.
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Oct 5, 2013 23:10
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Nice. How'd you do that mud?
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Oct 5, 2013 23:46
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Nebakenezzer posted:Nice. How'd you do that mud? The mud is just some plastic putty and a bit of baking soda painted with a couple of shades of brown, Tamiyas Buff and some pigments. Been meaning to try some of AK's (http://www.ak-interactive.com/inicio/) Weathering Sets in the future, that'd probably make mud effects easier. Anyone have any experiences with them?
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Oct 6, 2013 10:13
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The weathering overall looks very nice. The front section in particular is extremely convincing.
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Oct 6, 2013 13:27
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An idea for mud I saw was to take thinned brown paint and drip it in front of an airbrush blowing air only to give mud splatters on a model. The intent was that this simulates the process of mud flying through the air and splattering on the surface of a vehicle as it moves along. I haven't had the opportunity to try it myself, though.
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Oct 6, 2013 15:18
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Finally finished my first model a few weeks ago and got another and finished it yesterday. The helicopter I was working on a few months ago almost made me walk away from the hobby. But, I found some uh.. easier models to start with. I did the Enterprise D first. I'm waiting on the two replacement decals my giant gorilla hands messed up. These are AMT cadet series  models. The cool thing is that they are all in the same 1:2500 scale, so you can see how much bigger the Galaxy class is compared to the Sovereign.Anyway- don't judge too harshly. This is my first crack at it. I learned so much from the D to the E as far as how to handle water slide decals. Now if I could just get my painting to not look like a 4 year old did it.            
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Oct 7, 2013 18:09
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Looks pretty good... but did you varnish dem enterprizes? Looks like they're sprayed down with future for maximum shine.
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Oct 7, 2013 18:15
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Baronjutter posted:Looks pretty good... but did you varnish dem enterprizes? Looks like they're sprayed down with future for maximum shine. It's the decals 
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Oct 7, 2013 18:17
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Well once you get all your decal work set just give it a nice spray in dullcote or something. Those are some BIG sheets of decal. I have trouble with decals that big, always end up getting folds or crinkles of some sort Did you hit the decals with something like solv-set to melt em in? Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Oct 7, 2013 |
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Oct 7, 2013 18:19
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Baronjutter posted:Well once you get all your decal work set just give it a nice spray in dullcote or something. Nope, just slid them on and pressed them down. Only had one or two that had problems with peeling off. Just misted it with a little water and pressed it down with a towel. I've never heard of dullcoat or solv-set. I'll have to pick some up and take care of it once the replacement decals come in! Yeah, they were a pain in the rear end to move around, but I had the hang of the giant sheets about halfway through.
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Oct 7, 2013 18:33
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Those are big decal sheets?  I think I'd just put it back in the box and have a new resident of the pile of "never gonna build this" if I saw that.
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Oct 7, 2013 18:38
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Arquinsiel posted:Those are big decal sheets? Good job wrangling those decals, Bruiser! Yeah, the Enterprise kits always have huge rear end decals to put on the hull to do the blocks of different color on the saucer. The whole effect started with the first Star Trek movie. Good thing is you can just paint the different colors or skip it entirely and make it a nice uniform hull color and not make it look awful most of the time.
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Oct 7, 2013 18:45
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See, my problem is the painting. I suck rear end at it because I can't ever seem to mask properly. Plus I get it everywhere. So the decals added a nice option while I figure out how to put poo poo together without it looking like a special needs child got loose near the box. I'm going to build out the other 4 ships and put them up on a shelf. I think it'll be cool to have the ships that bear the name enterprise 
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Oct 7, 2013 18:45
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You can get spraycans of dullcoat to give things a matte finish. I've been trying to get away from it, simply because it is usually lacquer based and it eliminated really fine details. Nice job on those decals, Bruiser. Those are one thing I managed to master as a kid. Use water with some dish detergent while applying, and wet the area beforehand with the same solution, and you can fiddle to your heart's content. As for decail-set, there are a bunch of different products out there that melt the decals slightly, which gets them to attach to surfaces better. I use it all the time; the only thing you really need to know is to only use it when you don't need to move that particular decal anymore, as the process makes 'em very easy to rip. As for painting in general: it took me awhile to learn how to mask properly, so don't worry about it.
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Oct 8, 2013 21:41
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I just finished a perfect glossy coat on my newest model car using acrylic paint... I'm very surprised and impressed.
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Oct 9, 2013 05:28
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Congratulations! Can you provide pictures and/or a description of how you did it?
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Oct 9, 2013 07:02
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pageerror404 posted:I just finished a perfect glossy coat on my newest model car using acrylic paint... I'm very surprised and impressed. I have a CF-105 model that eagerly awaits your trip report!
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Oct 9, 2013 07:38
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Sure thing, I was going to wait until the whole model was finished to post pictures, but that might take quite a while. First here are the products I used for the whole process. I also topcoated with future but forgot to include it in the photo.  -Vallejo Model Air acrylic paint -Vallejo Light Ghost Grey primer -Liquitex Airbrush Medium (this stuff is incredible, I even use it to thin for hand painting) -Vallejo Gloss varnish 1. First I airbrushed the primer straight onto the model. I put it on thick, but airbrushing rules still apply... build it up in thin layers. After the primer dried, I rubbed it all over with a used fabric softening sheet (the kind you put in the dryer) which made it nice and smooth. 2. Then I thinned the paint with airbrush medium and added a few drops of the gloss varnish in with the mixture. I didn't really measure, but I would approximate it being three parts medium, three parts paint, one part gloss varnish. I airbrushed it onto the model. Once this dried, I used the fabric softening sheet again to rub it smooth. 3. Now I made a mixture that was mostly medium with a large amount of gloss varnish and just a couple small drops of paint. This was basically transparent and tinted red. I airbrushed this onto the car. Once dry I rubbed it smooth again with the dryer sheet. At this point the car looked pretty good. I wish I had thought to take a picture of it. If you want it glossy, but not extremely so then this would be a good point to stop. 4. I needed it to be very high gloss, so I airbrushed future onto the model. I didn't thin it at all, just put it right into the airbrush cup and blew at about 15psi. There is a trick to doing it right though. You have to continuously mist in fine layers to build it up. You should watch it go from a frosty satin look, to a wetter satin look, to a very wet layer that has almost an orange peel appearance. Stop at this point and set it down. Don't worry about the orange peel look, it levels itself out. It will turn cloudy white in some areas, but it goes back to clear when it dries. Then leave it for a day and rub it down with a soft cotton cloth to bring up to a very high gloss. If you have any imperfections from the painting process, you may need to apply another coat of future to help hide them. This happened to me, I had to use two coats because when I was painting it I accidentally knocked over the stand that was holding it and the car rolled onto its roof. If you did a perfect job painting, then one coat of future looks great still. Here it is, waiting for me to build the rest of the model. 
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Oct 9, 2013 22:39
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That is a very nice gloss coat you have there!
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Oct 10, 2013 13:07
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Oh man, the rest of the fleet showed up last night. The Enterprise TOS, A, B, and C. Can't wait to finish them and put them up next to each other on the shelf! I'm already looking forward to my next model, and I want to do a plane. Should I start looking at airbrushing, or is free-hand still the way to go?
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Oct 10, 2013 17:46
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Bruiser posted:Oh man, the rest of the fleet showed up last night. The Enterprise TOS, A, B, and C. Can't wait to finish them and put them up next to each other on the shelf! If you plan on making this a permanent hobby, an airbrush is definitely worth investing in.
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Oct 10, 2013 17:52
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Bruiser posted:Oh man, the rest of the fleet showed up last night. The Enterprise TOS, A, B, and C. Can't wait to finish them and put them up next to each other on the shelf! Airbrushing is so much easier you will kick yourself for not doing it sooner.
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Oct 10, 2013 18:14
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I'm about to make someone at my hobby store both happy and sad. "In excruciating detail, tell me about the airbrush kits you sell."
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Oct 10, 2013 18:20
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Bruiser posted:I'm about to make someone at my hobby store both happy and sad. "In excruciating detail, tell me about the airbrush kits you sell." Make sure your hobby shop sells iwata then.
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Oct 10, 2013 20:47
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I went to 3 hobby shops and 4 art stores when I was shopping for mine and all charged about double what you'd pay online.
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Oct 10, 2013 21:56
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$200?! Holy poo poo what am I getting myself into.
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Oct 10, 2013 21:57
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Bruiser posted:$200?! Holy poo poo what am I getting myself into. 200 for a brush or a whole setup? I paid about $250 for a brush + nice compressor and some accessories. And yeah it's a big investment but it opens up a ton of painting possibilities. But don't go for it unless you plan on doing a lot of modeling and are sure it's a hobby you're going to be interested in for years. Otherwise nice spray paints are fine.
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Oct 10, 2013 22:09
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Bruiser posted:$200?! Holy poo poo what am I getting myself into. $200 for an airbrush is alright, it will probably last for years and it makes the hobby so much more enjoyable. You should really start worrying if you are about to take your paycheck to a modelling convention like I am this weekend. I want all the tanks 
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Oct 10, 2013 22:13
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Has anyone in the thread done boats? I want to build a cool little wooden ship or two or seven.
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Oct 10, 2013 22:24
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Bruiser posted:I'm about to make someone at my hobby store both happy and sad. "In excruciating detail, tell me about the airbrush kits you sell." Do you want any  -level advice thrown at you? Because I can talk about stupid airbrush poo poo for hours.
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Oct 10, 2013 22:26
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Vulich the Subtle posted:Do you want any Somewhat bracing myself, I for one am all ears.
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Oct 11, 2013 00:00
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Baronjutter posted:I went to 3 hobby shops and 4 art stores when I was shopping for mine and all charged about double what you'd pay online. Hobby lobby.... Bring a printed 40% off coupon. Nothing can beat that price.
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Oct 11, 2013 00:04
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Bruiser posted:$200?! Holy poo poo what am I getting myself into. My dealer suggested me a $20 airbrush and an adapter for a car tire as the compressor 
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Oct 11, 2013 00:10
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Chicago Airbrush Supply tends to have crazy deals every now and then. DixieArt is another good retailer who have decent sales sometimes.
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Oct 11, 2013 02:18
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The tire adaptor idea isn't the worst idea in the world, but you can definitely do better. You could start with a wal*mart or harbor freight compressor, if you don't mind it being loud while it is filling the tank. Toss on a moisture trap and a pressure regulator. Looks to be about $55 for a compressor with a 3 gallon tank, and about $15 for a combination moisture trap and pressure regulator. Then, toss in the airbrush of your choice; I like iwata and badger, but whatever you choose, make sure it's dual action. Iwata revolution CS: about $100. Badger anthem: $100 for just the brush, or $115 for the set. Definitely get the set, since it comes with the hoses and bottles and more good stuff. I wouldn't recommend aztek airbrushes. I've always had trouble with those loving nozzle modules, the plastic build quality, and cleaning.
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Oct 11, 2013 04:01
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You'll probably do well to get something that is stocked locally so when you need a spare part on Saturday afternoon you can be back in business in a couple of hours rather than having to blow the rest of your paint day and then wait a couple more for shipping. No kidding this is the sort of event that can kill your interest in painting like you wouldn't believe.
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Oct 11, 2013 04:18
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Vulich the Subtle posted:Do you want any Yes.
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Oct 11, 2013 04:20
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I'll be picking up an Iwata revolution this afternoon thanks to recommendations in this thread. I've only half-completed one model, but painting with brushes was such a pain I'm willing to take a gamble. I also got the brush for a pretty good price - $150aus. The local hobby store wanted $350+ Compressor for $90 from eBay. One of the little ones with a tank. I don't yet have a cleaning pot but hopefully a jar with a hole in the lid will be ok. How important is ventilation when spraying with acrylics? I've watched a few YouTube videos and most people don't seem to have any sort of ventilation. I assume it's less bad for you than spray cans, but is a cracked window enough to keep me out of strife?
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Oct 11, 2013 07:37
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Cracked window and door, fan or other thing to ensure airflow and you should be OK. Working indoors with any aerosolized paint you should also wear something like this to keep from getting tiny particles deep in your lungs.
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Oct 11, 2013 15:41
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Granite Octopus posted:I'll be picking up an Iwata revolution this afternoon thanks to recommendations in this thread. You really don't need ventilation with acrylics. They are non toxic so you could swallow a pot and be okay. Besides if you're using enough pressure and paint flow to kick particles up in the air then you're spraying too heavy.
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Oct 11, 2013 17:03
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