kafkasgoldfish posted:I selfishly agree. Motion thirded and passed.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 09:21 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 13:55 |
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Let me make some actual progress beyond the planning stages before I make a thread; this could still all too easily fizzle out. This is definitely something I want to do, but especially if I have trouble with the permit process or with finding a concrete contractor in my area (the San Francisco Bay Area) who doesn't charge 2.5x normal rates, I'm not going to be going anywhere fast. I appreciate the enthusiasm though!
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 14:59 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Let me make some actual progress beyond the planning stages before I make a thread; this could still all too easily fizzle out. This is definitely something I want to do, but especially if I have trouble with the permit process or with finding a concrete contractor in my area (the San Francisco Bay Area) who doesn't charge 2.5x normal rates, I'm not going to be going anywhere fast. I was going to ask if you lived somewhere that might require you to think about snow loading, but I see that this is probably not the case.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 16:00 |
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There are plenty of ready mix concrete places in the bay where you just rent a trailer full of premixed concrete and pour it yourself. For a simple slab like that shed would require I don't see why you'd need to hire a contractor to do it. Just make sure you read the code and see what's required in terms of depth and reinforcement.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 16:01 |
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door Door door posted:There are plenty of ready mix concrete places in the bay where you just rent a trailer full of premixed concrete and pour it yourself. For a simple slab like that shed would require I don't see why you'd need to hire a contractor to do it. Just make sure you read the code and see what's required in terms of depth and reinforcement. Concrete is an intimidating prospect for me: you're time-limited, so you have to work quickly, and if you gently caress up then you have a gigantic mass of uselessness you have to clean up. And a 16'x24'x6" (or it might be 4", I forget) slab is not a small amount of concrete, either! I mean, you're right, if I do things myself then I can save a lot of money. There are risks involved, though. At the very least, I'd want to have someone who knew what they were doing who was around to supervise. For the actual construction, I can take my time and think things over, and if I screw something up, I'll probably just lose a few 2x6s which can probably be repurposed anyway. There's no such luxury when it comes to concrete pours.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 16:42 |
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Concrete is an intimidating prospect for me: you're time-limited, so you have to work quickly, and if you gently caress up then you have a gigantic mass of uselessness you have to clean up. And a 16'x24'x6" (or it might be 4", I forget) slab is not a small amount of concrete, either! Absolutely true, and there's a lot to be said for getting the daunting portion of a job done quickly and effectively. Sure you'll pay a little more, but if that's not the limiting factor, do whatever helps you sleep at night.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 16:46 |
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Aren't there self-leveling mixes out there that don't require troweling? Wouldn't be surprised if it costs more $$ than the normal stuff and a team of guys, but still, just curious.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 18:55 |
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If this workshop does happen, have a single row of concrete blocks along the bottom of the walls (naturally not at the doors) to give those 2x6" some extra height and to keep your walls off the slab, where they will soak up moisture and begin to rot and mold.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 19:04 |
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Blistex posted:If this workshop does happen, have a single row of concrete blocks along the bottom of the walls (naturally not at the doors) to give those 2x6" some extra height and to keep your walls off the slab, where they will soak up moisture and begin to rot and mold. The plan is to use pressure-treated lumber for the sole plate, with a moisture barrier (some kind of flashing) between it and the concrete. The sole plate has to be bolted to the concrete -- can't have it floating on the slab! Especially not in earthquake country. That does remind me though that my current plan calls for a vaulted roof with structural ridge beam, and the 6x6s that support that ridge beam would also need to be treated and protected. Rotting ridge beam supports...brrr. As for self-leveling concrete, I think the main issue is simply that the slab calls for something like 8-9 tons of concrete, and it all has to be put in place in a fairly short time. There's also some moderately skilled work later to ensure that it cures cleanly, that the anchor bolts are in the right places, that it has a nice edge, etc but the biggest problem is simply getting all the concrete in place before it starts to set up.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 19:15 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Let me make some actual progress beyond the planning stages before I make a thread; You'll probably get more help on the planning with a dedicated thread. There are a lot of construction guys around but few seem to hang out in the woodworking thread. You might save some time and $$ by looking into plans. I don't know if you can buy plans customized for a specific area but it seems likely.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 19:36 |
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Any good links and/or tips for making picture frames? I have a miter saw, a table saw and a router.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 21:34 |
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calcio posted:Any good links and/or tips for making picture frames? I have a miter saw, a table saw and a router. I've made a few basic frames. The main thing in my experience is that if you want to do 45-degree mitered joints then you'll need a special clamp to hold everything together while the glue sets. I have one of these and while it's a bit fiddly to get set up it works just fine. You can also make a lap joint that looks like a 45-degree miter joint from the front; I've never tried that but I've seen it done. That would give you more face surface area to get a good glue joint. On my larger frames, I've drilled partially into the middle of the miter joint (from the back, so you can't see it) and glued in some pegs to get a bit more surface area; I don't know how much of a difference it makes but it was good for my peace of mind. Otherwise, use your router to put a roundover or chamfer on the interior edge, something fancy like an ogee on the exterior edge, and a rabbet on the back, glue 'em all together, done.
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# ? Oct 28, 2013 22:33 |
calcio posted:Any good links and/or tips for making picture frames? I have a miter saw, a table saw and a router. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ibr_7n5ReM I have been making a few, though not exactly picture frames, and picked up a bit from this video. Making sure you are at exactly the right angle of cut is the single most important thing imo, followed by accurate length cutting. Get those two right and they should all fit together neatly. If they dont, put a clamp over the diagonal and apply pressure to bring them all together accurately.
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 02:24 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm looking to build myself a workshop in my back yard; it's getting kind of old to try to do carpentry in the garage with the laundry and dry-food storage and etc. etc. etc. 16'x24', concrete slab foundation, fully permitted and all that. I've done a decent bit of small-scale carpentry in the past, but nothing remotely on this scale before. Lots of reading up on construction codes and how to frame houses; it's been a real education. Fortunately this job looks to be relatively straightforward compared to what I'm reading about -- single story, no interior walls, just building directly on the slab (well, with a moisture barrier and pressure-treated sole plate). This is almost exactly what I'm planning to do; I'm building a 13' x 26' workshop/garage in my backyard. In my city, you have to have sealed foundation plans so I hired an engineer to design the foundation. I also had him draw up the framing plan but I don't like it and we had a break down in communication so I'm just going to submit my own based on the IRC. (confession: I am actually a registered engineer with an original emphasis in structural but my boss is uncomfortable with me sealing my own plans) Right now I'm working my way through the permit process but I hope to begin construction in January or February. My plan is to hire out the concrete work and do all the carpentry and electrical myself. Anyway, I glanced at your plans but the contrast is so poor, it's tough for me to read them.
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 03:22 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Let me make some actual progress beyond the planning stages before I make a thread; this could still all too easily fizzle out. This is definitely something I want to do, but especially if I have trouble with the permit process or with finding a concrete contractor in my area (the San Francisco Bay Area) who doesn't charge 2.5x normal rates, I'm not going to be going anywhere fast. its pretty easy to make a shed on your own. you can check out my cabin thread. you probably do need a permit for something over 10x10 but jesus like 80% of construction in SF happens without a permit so I say gently caress it.
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 04:14 |
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rotor posted:you can check out my cabin thread. long story short: pier blocks, and plenty of 'em
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 04:16 |
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rotor posted:its pretty easy to make a shed on your own. you can check out my cabin thread. you probably do need a permit for something over 10x10 but jesus like 80% of construction in SF happens without a permit so I say gently caress it. Anything over 120 square feet needs a permit in my area. I'm not really willing to do unpermitted work mostly because it'd be detrimental for whenever I eventually sell the house. I've put a ton of sweat equity into this place; it'd be a shame to undermine that with a crappy unpermitted workshop in the back just so I'd have a nice place to tinker. In other words, this project is something like 50% selfish "I want a man-cave" and 50% "I want to improve the lot for whoever comes after me, and incidentally get more of their wallet". There was a small 10'x12' shed on the property when I arrived, which was on pre-cast concrete piers. I can definitely see the attraction, but they wouldn't be valid for a large permitted structure. Anyway, I'm gonna talk to the building inspector tomorrow morning to get some questions answered; maybe tomorrow evening I can take some photos of my setup and make a new thread. Thanks for the advice so far, folks!
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 04:40 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Concrete is an intimidating prospect for me: you're time-limited, so you have to work quickly, and if you gently caress up then you have a gigantic mass of uselessness you have to clean up. And a 16'x24'x6" (or it might be 4", I forget) slab is not a small amount of concrete, either! You're over thinking things and you really don't need all that. Forget about the concrete. Just get some lumber and nails and build it like this guy did.
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 05:39 |
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Made some toys from odd bits of scrap walnut and dowel. These were quick fun and I didn't bother trying to get them perfect but 3 of 4 spin very nice. The 4th (frontmost in top pic) broke off the lathe. I remounted and tried to save it but it just wobbles and falls over. The discs are around an inch or so in diameter. Tricky working on stuff this small even with midi size tools but it's good practice in delicate cutting. Once I move the tailstock to finish the point, my Nova w/pin jaws wants to spit them out so I might try a drill chuck next time.
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 08:10 |
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calcio posted:Any good links and/or tips for making picture frames? I have a miter saw, a table saw and a router. Since you have a table saw, you might want to try making a miter sled. WWMM has a good video on how to make one and makes a frame with it in another video. http://www.woodworkingformeremortals.com/2013/02/make-table-saw-miter-sled.html
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 10:54 |
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Rick, those are great tops, good little xmas goodies.
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 18:01 |
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mds2 posted:Rick, those are great tops, good little xmas goodies. Thanks. I've been trying to stock up on a few things for Christmas. So far I have a few small bowls, a dice tower, tops (which I'll probably make a few bigger ones). Planning on some phone cradles, maybe a musical instrument, not sure what else.
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# ? Oct 29, 2013 18:26 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Concrete is an intimidating prospect for me: you're time-limited, so you have to work quickly, and if you gently caress up then you have a gigantic mass of uselessness you have to clean up. And a 16'x24'x6" (or it might be 4", I forget) slab is not a small amount of concrete, either! Didn't realize the slab was quite that large. Having a professional do it would definitely save a lot of headache. Although if you do decide to do it yourself get some friends together and coordinate the trailer pickups so as soon as one load is poured you have someone showing up with another.
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# ? Oct 30, 2013 03:13 |
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I went ahead and put a thread up. Here's hoping we can make something happen!
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# ? Oct 30, 2013 03:17 |
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More tops, bigger and badder. These are a lot of fun to turn because there is little waste which means very little roughing.
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# ? Oct 30, 2013 05:51 |
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What kind of lathe chucks does everyone use? I'm ready to buy one so I can stop using this stupid faceplate.
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# ? Oct 30, 2013 12:44 |
I've been extremely happy with my Oneway Talon. Solid builds, smooth action, great grip, plenty of accessories, etc. No complaints whatsoever.
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# ? Oct 30, 2013 13:58 |
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I too have a Talon and it is great...pricey but I guess all of turning is
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# ? Oct 30, 2013 19:15 |
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I have a Nova. If budget is at all a concern you can save considerable $$ buying reconditioned directly from Teknatool. http://www.novatoolsusa.com/RECONDITIONED-SuperNOVA2-Wood-Turning-Chuck-23055-R.htm
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# ? Oct 30, 2013 21:13 |
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What can I use that dries clear to fill in large cracks in wood? I'm just about done my table, but there is a pair of mirror-image cracks in two of the boards that I wanted to showcase, but have been taking forever to fill. I've probably don't about 15 coats of poly, but they are filling in slower than hell. I imagine that gloss Modge Podge would do the trick, but I don't feel like driving two hours to get some or spend $20 to have it shipped a week from now. The table is being finished up in our living room and my wife is losing her patience.
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# ? Oct 31, 2013 03:57 |
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Epoxy. It can be sanded down and then polished and it'll dry clear. I used it on my living edge table with good success. Technique explained here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/fixing-a-knot/
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# ? Oct 31, 2013 07:39 |
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I also finished my bench!.
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# ? Oct 31, 2013 08:02 |
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Elston Gunn posted:What kind of lathe chucks does everyone use? I'm ready to buy one so I can stop using this stupid faceplate. Take this as a review more than a recommendation, as I've only been turning for a couple months. I got an Axminster Clubman, which is a pretty nice size for my Ridgid lathe. I'm sure most of my complaints are borne more from my ignorance of turning than from anything else, but I HAVE noticed is the jaws have to be re-tightened more often than I think should be necessary-- that is, the four dovetailed pieces that screw onto the head. I'd read reviews of this model having tensioning problems inside of turned mortises, but that's never been an issue. Along these lines, when is it appropriate to use a mortise as opposed to a tenon (or vice versa) on faceplate turning? I jumped right into the lathe with zero training or education, and I feel like I should know theory like this. Along THOSE lines, does anyone have experience with bowl turning workshops/classes in the northeast? I learn hands-on, so YouTube and articles can only take me so far. North Bennett has a weekend green turning course coming up I'm thinking of going to.
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# ? Oct 31, 2013 11:57 |
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I also finished my bench!. The bench looks great. How did you shape the seat? I see a handplane and mad props to you if that is how you did it.
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# ? Oct 31, 2013 17:06 |
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wormil posted:The bench looks great. How did you shape the seat? I see a handplane and mad props to you if that is how you did it. Mostly with the handplane, a small block plane and a RO sander. It was the part I was most sceptical about and the main reason I just used cheap pine for the seat, but it turned out to be easy. In fact, I spent more time tuning the handplane than I did shaping the seat!. The seat is made of 2x4's and and 1x4 spacers. They were all ripped to roughly the right height/angle on the table saw, so the actual amount of wood I had to remove was minimal: Here's how it looked pre-planing/sanding:
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# ? Oct 31, 2013 20:10 |
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you did a great job on the design of that bench. It looks great.
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# ? Oct 31, 2013 20:50 |
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Different style and this time I embedded a piece of brass rod in the tip for smoother spinning. Also made a quickie handle so I can spin it with a piece of string. Along the way I discovered a defect/crack in the wood. I stopped, sealed it with CA glue and sanded.
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# ? Nov 1, 2013 05:31 |
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Is there a good, free program/online tool for making woodworking blueprints/designs? I swear I saw designs people had made on the fly on a few forums, but I can't remember what they used.
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# ? Nov 1, 2013 16:14 |
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Sketchup works pretty well for me. The only programs I've seen that are woodworking specific weren't free so I didn't try them.
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# ? Nov 1, 2013 16:24 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 13:55 |
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Yeah, Sketchup's the one I've seen most often used. BigPrint http://woodgears.ca/bigprint/ may also be of use.
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# ? Nov 1, 2013 17:13 |